I have taken a wrench to it to try and turn it, no go. I loosened the nut on the backside of it, nothing. I am really frustrated that I cant turn this off to work on dishwater without turning house water off and then getting water everywhere when I remove supply hose.

You want to be careful with that shark bite fitting at the bottom . It already looks crooked in the picture

It's probably stripped. Plastic stems don't give me confidence in quality. Assuming the handles just spin?

03_Aggie said:

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It's probably stripped. Plastic stems don't give me confidence in quality. Assuming the handles just spin?

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no I can only spin about 1/8th turn, then it stops.

That shark bit connection seems to be a swivel.

62strat said:

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03_Aggie said:

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It's probably stripped. Plastic stems don't give me confidence in quality. Assuming the handles just spin?

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no I can only spin about 1/8th turn, then it stops.

That shark bit connection seems to be a swivel.

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i had one like that once where I eventually just had to give it more force. way more than i expected. I figure there was just some buildup in the fitting. hard to decide to go that far though. probably want to turn house water off anyway just to be safe.

For grins barely loosen the fitting behind the handle and try to shut it off again.

62strat said:

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03_Aggie said:

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It's probably stripped. Plastic stems don't give me confidence in quality. Assuming the handles just spin?

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no I can only spin about 1/8th turn, then it stops.

That shark bit connection seems to be a swivel.

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I don't think shark bite connectors are supposed to swivel...

87IE said:

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For grins barely loosen the fitting behind the handle and try to shut it off again.

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I loosened it all the way off still no luck.

Neither side will turn?

agdaddy04 said:

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Neither side will turn?

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correct. I'm guessing they are just really jammed up. If I put channel locks on it to turn, it feels like it's just gonna break it.

What a pain. Twice I've had to turn the house water off and then deal with the cleanup when I remove the supply hose. It's gonna be a third time when I replace the DW this weekend.

Once they have deposits in them, the solution is to replace the valve. Slowing going through the old valves in my house.

Go grab a replacement and swap it out when you shut the water off again.

What exactly do I replace? Where I've circled in yellow, does that just unthread, and I'm buying a tee that has the valves on it (the red circle)

Full disclosure, when it comes to fittings/piping, I'm usually about a 10% success rate on getting the right piece first time. It is not my strong suite.



Something like this?

double shut off valve

or would 1/4 turn be preferable (this is cheaper)

related.. what is that cylinder thing anyway?

62strat said:

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related.. what is that cylinder thing anyway?

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As stated, water hammer arrestor. Basically, it's an air pocket that compresses and expands to handle pressure differentials in your water supply. As water flows through your pipes and hits a closing valve, its momentum causes it to lash back because it can't compress, which causes a loud hammering sound and local pressure spikes. The sound is annoying, and the pressure spikes can loosen fittings over time. The water hammer arrestor gives the water a cushion to compress and prevents the hammering.

Loosen the valve a the yellow circled fitting, rotate the assembly and re tighten in a better position to open and close the supply.

Builder93 said:

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Loosen the valve a the yellow circled fitting, rotate the assembly and re tighten in a better position to open and close the supply.

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I can move the whole thing around, it's not a positional problem.

I would stop messing around with double valves and make a manifold out of a T, two elbows and a couple close nipples and put 2 regular quarter turn supply valves.

That's what I did on mine. I just don't see the benefit to your current setup.

I don't have much experience with shark bite fittings, but you being able to turn that whole setup all around doesn't give me a ton of confidence that the fitting won't come off at some point.

TMoney2007 said:

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I would stop messing around with double valves and make a manifold out of a T, two elbows and a couple close nipples and put 2 regular quarter turn supply valves.

That's what I did on mine. I just don't see the benefit to your current setup.

I don't have much experience with shark bite fittings, but you being able to turn that whole setup all around doesn't give me a ton of confidence that the fitting won't come off at some point.

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Yep, been there and done that...as I absolutely hate shark bite and/or gator bite fittings except for temp fixes till I can do them with correct fittings, etc.

I've had one pop off and our good friends had one pop off and flood their entire house when they were away for several hours. Don't trust them any further than I can throw them!

Ah...sharkbites. The mainstay of the new master plumber.

Like most things in the industry, the quality of the person doing the work is generally of more importance. Id rather keep the sharkbites in my tool bag and throw the licensed tradesman in the trash. That said, I would remove that sharkbite, throw the arrestor in the trash, and sweat a new setup on there with two tees instead of a double valve.

It looks like whatever tradesman hack did that didn't leave you a lot of room.

Sounds like something to add to our list of improvements when we get to finishing the basement in a few years.

I'm not that worried about shark bite connectors in general... but I'm concerned about that one because it's cocked to one side and apparently loose.

I also think that if they're in a spot where there won't be much force on them they're probably fine, but a friction fit on something that will require manipulation like a valve would make me prefer a stronger mechanical connection.

62strat said:

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Builder93 said:

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Loosen the valve a the yellow circled fitting, rotate the assembly and re tighten in a better position to open and close the supply.

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I can move the whole thing around, it's not a positional problem.

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OK, I misunderstood. Why don't you loosen the brass retaining nut at the valve and see if it will loosen up the stem?

I would have all of that re-plumbed. The assembly should be made into a manifold that is not supported by the flexible tubing but mounted to the wall and supported by a strap. Also, how do you clear out the p-trap if it's all glued together?

TMoney2007 said:

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I'm not that worried about shark bite connectors in general... but I'm concerned about that one because it's cocked to one side and apparently loose.

I also think that if they're in a spot where there won't be much force on them they're probably fine, but a friction fit on something that will require manipulation like a valve would make me prefer a stronger mechanical connection.

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I agree. I don't like it either. I'd probably want to at least replace that bite with a new one and polish that copper to a shine with super fine steel wool before slipping on the new shark bite. They make a removal tool you can buy at your home store to remove it non destructively.

I'd totally solder a manifold as suggest but that would get op by.