Driveway - Asphalt vs. Concrete

6,302 Views | 17 Replies | Last: 6 yr ago by tgivaughn
2007fightintexasaggie
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Anyone made this decision lately and any significant savings on asphalt vs. concrete? Looking to start home construction sometime next year with what could be about a 200' driveway. Any feedback?

Everything I'm hearing says about $2.00/sf difference between the two. Looking to build in the BCS area.
Long Live Sully
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If the difference is that small I go with concrete.
Cromagnum
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Asphalt driveways have terrible curb appeal and get freaking hot.
ABATTBQ11
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Is the $2/sf price all inclusive?
PFG
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What about chip seal? Without the asphalt topper? Grays out nicely. Looks better than black asphalt and wears better than a gravel road. Probably cheaper than all concrete
txag2008
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ABATTBQ11 said:

Is the $2/sf price all inclusive?
$2.00/sf difference between the two
agcivengineer
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Send me a dm and i can give you a way to save money on concrete paving, all while following the standard processes and avoiding the outdated practices commonly used in the Southeast Texas area. All I work on is paving around the USA...
Aggietaco
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You didn't ask for other opinions, but skip the expanse of impermeable surface and go with a concrete pad by your garage, a concrete curb cut at the road, and fill the gap with a geogrid and gravel. Should save you some considerable money and allow your land to keep doing its job.
Long Live Sully
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Aggietaco said:

You didn't ask for other opinions, but skip the expanse of impermeable surface and go with a concrete pad by your garage, a concrete curb cut at the road, and fill the gap with a geogrid and gravel. Should save you some considerable money and allow your land to keep doing its job.
I have looked at those briefly.. Do you know what the weight limits are when used for a driveway?
Aggietaco
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I've only used them one time on a commercial project and it was rated for truck access. I know DuPont makes a product that is rated for use as fire access as do others. They generally come in a light duty 4" depth and a heavy duty 6" depth until you get into a rigid product that is more expensive and more difficult to install.
Long Live Sully
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Thanks.. I have 400' of drive that is just road base now and I want to do something else. Concrete would be pretty costly.
Aggietaco
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Base and caliche driveways drive me crazy. I understand the cost factor appeal, but I don't think I could live with one. The Geo grid would run In the $5k range in your situation with the big variable being the type of stone you wanted since you're looking at ~70 yards.
Long Live Sully
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Me too. I hate it. I am ok with spending $15k - $20k but over $30k makes my head hurt. So would you pour a curb as a border?
Aggietaco
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While that would be nice, that's expensive concrete work. If you're not going to do a cut to where your traffic surface is roughly even with the surrounding stable soil/rock, you could look at other options like pre-cast concrete (wheel stops), cut stone, anchored CMU, or steel.

Unless you are self-performing, I don't think you're getting away with 400' of any substantial road surface for your budget.
Builder93
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Cow Hop Ag said:

Aggietaco said:

You didn't ask for other opinions, but skip the expanse of impermeable surface and go with a concrete pad by your garage, a concrete curb cut at the road, and fill the gap with a geogrid and gravel. Should save you some considerable money and allow your land to keep doing its job.
I have looked at those briefly.. Do you know what the weight limits are when used for a driveway?
Different models have different weight capabilities. It also depends on how you prepare the subgrade. Look at some of the specs and see what they recommend. The heaviest ones can hold a fully loaded firetruck so weight bearing capability is not an issue.
A few options:


Grasspave2
TrueGrid
EZ Roll
Long Live Sully
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Thanks.. I will look at those.
PFG
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Builder -how well do these perform on sloped drives? I've got a driveway with some elevation change. Would it hold up? Or am I going to end UI with washed rock piling up on the down hill, and constant filling of gaps on the slope.
Builder93
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That's a good question. I will send your question to one of my reps. I think they probably have a maximum grade they recommend.
tgivaughn
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200*12*2
$4800 diff

Most driveways that long will have problems, regardless of materials over time.

I order to avoid the most maintenance, concrete done to country specs.or better would have to have more money invested than $4800, e.g. 5"tk, #4s@15"ocew high PSI concrete w/pozzolith add, with A+ labor that prepared the supporting soils to P.O. less than 17 3-5ft deep
So expect some cracks to repair if investing anything less than that.

Asphalt needs regular traffic to beat it into place, else its base & surface begin to crack, be it only aesthetic at first. What it does to tires isn't well published but worse than anything concrete might do.

Either of these two will have a large impact on roots & trees nearby, which may fall unexpectedly ... on a vehicle parked or to block access


Most of my clients will begin a driveway process that might end in concrete (some or all eventually) with a more eco-friendly & cheaper "base". Some variations begin like this:
> remove all soils judged to be volatile - over P.I. 17 at least 36"d or lime treat that area
> lime & base material is dumpes/spread/packed 6-12"d
> bullrock is being used much more these days, packed down into this mix
> limestone gravel is then the topper, packed down (the lime & limestone help stabilize the soils)

Over the years, more limestone gravel will be needed but the soils become more stable until one day reif. concrete topping is elected with plenty of expansion joints
That said, some old timers will testify that 20-30 years of limestone gravel = what a concrete drive would have cost but they will not testify the concrete would have been entirely maintenance free nor still useful at all

Short-hand answers here ... long-hand help here ....
http://pages.suddenlink.net/tgivaughn/
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