Gonna drop my stuff this week since the cold weather is pretty much completely gone.
Martin Q. Blank said:
too late
Here's the local expert (resides down the road from me in McKinney, TX) and an Aggie as well...WHOOP!!!sprinklerguy12 said:
Interested in the same responses for the Dallas area
Quote:
Apply a pre-emergent weedkiller to stop the germination of crabgrass, grassburs and other warm-season annual grassy weeds. Dimension and Halts are most commonly sold to homeowners, but other types are also good. Each gives 100 to 110 days of control of germinating weeds.
Timing is critical. You want your first application to be one to two weeks before the average date of the last killing freeze for your area.
The dates I am going to give you are for the Texarkana/DFW/Abilene/Midland/Odessa corridor. If you are way south of that line, make your applications 1 to 2 weeks earlier. If you are way north of that line, add 1 to 2 weeks.
In that corridor, make your first application by March 15 and a second "booster" application 90 days later, in the first two weeks of June. These materials are safe around trees and shrubs, and they're safe for any type of lawngrass. Do not, however, use them on new turf until it has gone through its first winter.
Remember: these are PRE-emergent herbicides. Once you can see the weeds growing, they will not be effective, nor will they control perennial weeds that come back from their roots.
Quote:
Fertilize your lawn, but don't rush to do so. First feeding in South Texas should be March 15. In Central Texas, April 1. In far North Texas/Panhandle April 15. Have your soil tested to determine the best fertilizer for your needs. Don't be surprised if the test suggests that you apply an all-nitrogen fertilizer in clay soils and a 4-1-2 ratio high-nitrogen fertilizer in sandy soils. Choose a quality fertilizer with half or more of its nitrogen in slow-release form. Again, I am NOT an advocate of weed-and-feed products.
absolutelyPale Rider said:
Can they be applied at the same time or must it be done separately
Barricade works well as a pre-emergent herbicide. I've had great luck with it since I started using it several years back. Fairly cheap too. Prodamine is the generic label for it - yellow pellets that dissolve in water so you can use an application spreader.bkag9824 said:
Anybody care to recommend a pre & fert for typical Katy st augustine on crap builder "soil"?
And as a second question, will a top dressing of compost help even out the bumpy/uneven spots?
Yes I have had good luck with that product in my yard.gmf_aggie said:
Is the Scotts Halts Crabgrass something worth getting from a big box store?
07fta07 said:
I've always used what Randy Lemmon recommends and my yard looks great. I get it at ACE.
foleyt said:07fta07 said:
I've always used what Randy Lemmon recommends and my yard looks great. I get it at ACE.
What exactly is it that you're getting at Ace? Can never find anything in a store