I need to replace my water heater.

What are the consequences of doing this without a permit? (i.e when selling the house)

It would be a simple job to replace. It has a drain pan and relief valve all plumbed to go outside, but it does not have an expansion tank which I believe is required now in Dallas.

If I were to do this DIY and not do the proper permitting what would I be risking down the road?

My two options are:
1. DIY and not worry about permit
2. Have someone come out and do it

I don't think its worth the headache for me to DIY and mess with the permit. Figure I would probably save a minimum of 500 if I DIY.

Permits? LOL!

Diy

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Permits? LOL!

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Bingo!

I heard a story that Austin was driving around on big trash day looking for heater boxes and then seeing if permits had been pulled.

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I heard a story that Austin was driving around on big trash day looking for heater boxes and then seeing if permits had been pulled.

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Cut up the box and stick it in the recycling. No one is going to piece stuff back together to catch something like this.

However, it would be good to take the old WH to the dump instead of leaving it at the curb for normal trash pick up.

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I heard a story that Austin was driving around on big trash day looking for heater boxes and then seeing if permits had been pulled.

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That's why you look up the sex offenders in your area and put it in front of their house on trash day.

Kidding....kidding....

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I heard a story that Austin was driving around on big trash day looking for heater boxes and then seeing if permits had been pulled.

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I just finished replacing one at my rent house in round rock (without a permit). I think I'll leave the box in view and hope they knock on the door.

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I heard a story that Austin was driving around on big trash day looking for heater boxes and then seeing if permits had been pulled.

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I just finished replacing one at my rent house in round rock (without a permit). I think I'll leave the box in view and hope they knock on the door.

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Don't like your renters?

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I heard a story that Austin was driving around on big trash day looking for heater boxes and then seeing if permits had been pulled.

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I just finished replacing one at my rent house in round rock (without a permit). I think I'll leave the box in view and hope they knock on the door.

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Don't like your renters?

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Yeah I screwed that up... what I meant was I'd leave the box in view of my house in Austin and hope they knock on my door.

Well it took a while but is done. Little tighter fit than the last one even though both were 40 gallons.

There's a reason you're supposed to pull permits and have it inspected. That thing is in violation of code in several ways. Those ways will probably be noted on the inspection if/when you attempt to sell your house.

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There's a reason you're supposed to pull permits and have it inspected. That thing is in violation of code in several ways. Those ways will probably be noted on the inspection if/when you attempt to sell your house.

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Humor me and list what is wrong.

I am a plumbing newb.

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There's a reason you're supposed to pull permits and have it inspected. That thing is in violation of code in several ways. Those ways will probably be noted on the inspection if/when you attempt to sell your house.

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I'm willing to bet that the one he pulled out would result in those same things being listed in the inspection if he were attempting to sell his house.

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There's a reason you're supposed to pull permits and have it inspected. That thing is in violation of code in several ways. Those ways will probably be noted on the inspection if/when you attempt to sell your house.

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I'm willing to bet that the one he pulled out would result in those same things being listed in the inspection if he were attempting to sell his house.

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Not if the manufacture date fell within different code requirements.

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There's a reason you're supposed to pull permits and have it inspected. That thing is in violation of code in several ways. Those ways will probably be noted on the inspection if/when you attempt to sell your house.

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I'm willing to bet that the one he pulled out would result in those same things being listed in the inspection if he were attempting to sell his house.

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Not if the manufacture date fell within different code requirements.

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The inspection on the last home I purchased called out the electrical outlet for the dryer being a 3 prong instead of 4 even though the 3 prong was fine when the house was built.

It also called out the gas line for the water heater and furnace because it didn't have the "dirt trap" or whatever they call the required gas pipe fitting even though the furnace was 20 yrs old and wasn't required when it was installed.

A lot depends on the inspector but I've seen some crazy stuff noted on some inspectors reports and I think the good ones note anything they can see as a CYA move.

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There's a reason you're supposed to pull permits and have it inspected. That thing is in violation of code in several ways. Those ways will probably be noted on the inspection if/when you attempt to sell your house.

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Humor me and list what is wrong.

I am a plumbing newb.

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It probably should have been placed a little farther forward because that space seems a little narrow.

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502.5 Clearances for maintenance and replacement.

Appliances shall be provided with access for inspection, service, repair and replacement without disabling the function of a fire-resistance-rated assembly or removing permanent construction, other appliances or any other piping or ducts not connected to the appliance being inspected, serviced, repaired or replaced. A level working space not less than 30 inches in length and 30 inches in width (762 mm by 762 mm) shall be provided in front of the control side to service an appliance.

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I don't see a valve on the cold supply.

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503.1 Cold water line valve.

The cold water branch line from the main water supply line to each hot water storage tank or water heater shall be provided with a valve, located near the equipment and serving only the hot water storage tank or water heater. The valve shall not interfere or cause a disruption of the cold water supply to the remainder of the cold water system. The valve shall be provided with access on the same floor level as the water heater served.

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Maybe it's just the angle of the photo, but the pressure relief drain line looks like it travels at an upward angle, and discharge under the floor is not normally readily observable. This is why discharge pipes often terminate 6" above the bottom of the pan.

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504.6 Requirements for discharge piping.
The discharge piping serving a pressure relief valve, temperature relief valve or combination thereof shall:

7. Discharge to a termination point that is readily observable by the building occupants.
9. Be installed so as to flow by gravity.

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I'm trying to find the citation in the IPC, but WHs have to be elevated at least 18" off the floor for an installation of this type.

I knew it was code in CS to be elevated.

Plus I noticed the pipe that angles upward.

Cutoff valves are really critical; we have had several leak and one in a catastrophic fashion.

The cramped location seems like an after thought.

Thanks

It has a cold water shut off.

The tight fit is likely due to the recent government mandated increase in efficiency for water heaters that basically just added insulation.

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It has a cold water shut off.

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That's good. I couldn't tell from the pic.

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There's a reason you're supposed to pull permits and have it inspected.

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Ahem.

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I'm trying to find the citation in the IPC, but WHs have to be elevated at least 18" off the floor for an installation of this type.

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It's not in the IPC, it's in the IFGC. The City of Dallas uses the 2012 IFGC with amendments. There's an amendment excepting this for FVIR water heaters.

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305.3 Elevation of ignition source.
Equipment and appliances having an ignition source shall be elevated such that the source of ignition is not less than 18 inches (457 mm) above the floor in hazardous locations and public garages, private garages, repair garages, motor fuel-dispensing facilities and parking garages. For the purpose of this section, rooms or spaces that are not part of the living space of a dwelling unit and that communicate directly with a private garage through openings shall be considered to be part of the private garage.

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It has more to do with the surrounding area than the water heater itself. The area in a residential garage from finished floor (or any pit therein) up to 18" is considered likely to contain gas or other flammable vapors and is considered a hazardous location. The same applies to electrical crap. It's also why you see elevated vending machines at gas stations. Whether or not that dude needs to be elevated depends on where it lives in the house.

Its in the center of my house with a detached garage. Pretty sure it does not need to be elevated.

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Its in the center of my house with a detached garage. Pretty sure it does not need to be elevated.

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In CS, it is now code to have a WH elevated. Originally mine was not and had to be raised, vented, drip pan, and drain pipe from the drip pan to exterior. Before it sat on the garage floor.

You might research your city.

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In CS, it is now code to have a WH elevated. Originally mine was not and had to be raised, vented, drip pan, and drain pipe from the drip pan to exterior. Before it sat on the garage floor.

You might research your city.

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The garage location is the trigger. OP said Dallas. City of Dallas uses the 2012 International codes, which is what's posted above. Coincidentally, City of CS uses the same code series/year.

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In CS, it is now code to have a WH elevated. Originally mine was not and had to be raised, vented, drip pan, and drain pipe from the drip pan to exterior. Before it sat on the garage floor.

You might research your city.

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The garage location is the trigger. OP said Dallas. City of Dallas uses the 2012 International codes, which is what's posted above. Coincidentally, City of CS uses the same code series/year.

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Should it have been elevated to meet code in Dallas?

In a garage, yes. In a different part of the house where there is not potentially a collection of gasoline (or other flammable) vapor, no.

Edit: unless the manufacturer specifies the requirement for elevation on the nameplate or instructions

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In CS, it is now code to have a WH elevated. Originally mine was not and had to be raised, vented, drip pan, and drain pipe from the drip pan to exterior. Before it sat on the garage floor.

You might research your city.

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The garage location is the trigger. OP said Dallas. City of Dallas uses the 2012 International codes, which is what's posted above. Coincidentally, City of CS uses the same code series/year.

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Should it have been elevated to meet code in Dallas?

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Doesn't look like it. I pulled up the Dallas amendments to the IFGC and it does not include living spaces.

One other thing that is required is the chimney termination has to be a minimum of 2' above a point 10' from the roof.

Looks like a pretty clean installation. The larger heater body doesn't give you much pan space for leakage.

Putting a gas fueled heater in the plenum room for the air handling equipment is a no no. But is allowed on existing installations. Where is your combustion air coming in from?

Can't tell if your drain line is running through an air gap or not, but it should be. Again, depending on city and inspector, may allow to hook up to existing drain.

How did our grandparents ever survive this dangerous world? They should have all died taking such risks

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How did our grandparents ever survive this dangerous world? They should have all died taking such risks

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+1000