I replaced a Moen kitchen faucet that corroded over 13 years with a new one Moen sent me for free based on a cell phone picture of the corroded faucet I provided them. The best customer service I've ever received, it only took 7.5 minutes on the phone to get the new one sent to me.

And now to my problem, after an easy removal and replacement of the faucet I found the shut-off valves were leaking from the valve bodies. So off to Lowes and Home Depot only to find out that they do not sell the same style / size valves. What I had were some sort of compression fitting with a large nylon seat swaged on the 1/2 inch copper line with a free spinning nut on the wall side and the valve had the male threads that engaged the nut.

I'll check Ace Hardware in the AM, but what should I do if I can't find a replacement valve that will install the same way?

I know the obvious answer is to get a different style of valve and cut the copper back closer to the wall and install the new valves, but my problem is I've never sweated copper before. I'm handy and I understand the process, and seen it done, but I've never done it. So I'm a little reluctant to try it and end up flooding the cabinet and having to leave the main water off to the house until an expensive plumber can come fix my stupidity on Monday.

Any suggestions from more experienced DIY plumbers are welcome.

Thanks in advance,
Roger

Go to a plumbing store rather than the box stores.

Thanks. I'll look for a plumbing supply store but I doubt I'll find one open on a Sunday. I really need to get this finished today, otherwise the "spousal points" will quickly go from positive for replacing the faucet to negative for leaving the kitchen without a working faucet since Saturday evening, and there will be pressure to call in a plumber.

Just cut the old piece that is sweated onto the copper line coming out of the wall completely off and install a new compression fitting shut-off valve that you can buy from Lowe's or HD. Here's a video to assist you in installing the new compression fittings:



While you're replacing the valve, you may also want to replace the escutcheons if they need replacing due to their current appearance. Same for the water supply lines...

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Don't be shy about sweating copper fittings. Just make sure you get as much water out of the pipe as possible so it doesn't act like a big heat sink. Keep the valve open when you solder it on so steam in the pipe doesn't build up any pressure. Buy a small piece of aluminum sheet about 6"x6" to put behind the fitting so you don't set your cabinets or wall on fire.

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A trick that a plumber taught me years ago was to wad up some white bread and force it into the end of the copper line to plug the line and keep the water back away from the sweating area. Once the sweating is completed and the water line is completely connected, remove the aerator and flush the bread out of the lines. Works like a champ for me

Awesome help Gary79Ag and lb3, thanks so much.
Obviously I'm much more comfortable doing the compression valve as shown in the video, since I already have all the skills and tools necessary to accomplish it. The video talked about lube on the valve threads, is telflon tape advised instead of lube? I know you don't use tape on the faucet line since it has a seal, but wasn't sure on the male threads of the valve that go into the big compression nut.
Is sweating on a different configuration really an advantage? Less likely to leak if done correctly? It's so much more intimidating, and I can't see the benefit in ease to accomplish so wondering if it is just less likely to leak?
Thanks again!

Compression valves are OK since they're under the sink and can be inspected for leaks (don't put them in a wall). I prefer "sharkbite" valves that just push onto the end of the pipe, and they are sold at Home Depot. Pretty sure Lowes and Ace sell them too.

(edited to remove snapshot of valve, which obviously didn't work)

Rodger, you seem like sensible DIY guy. Buty some copper pipe, fittings and the tools needed to sweat fittings, connections etc. Practice sweating on some of the fittings and you'll find that it is a simple process and the "intimidation" factor will go away. As a homeowner, you will need emergency connections. I keep various size fittings just for late night/weekend fixes.

I've used and installed compression fitting for years (20+) on numerous types of copper pipe for toilet, vanity, sink, water heater hook-ups and have never had one leak whereas I've seen numerous leaks at sweat joints over that same period of time (mainly due to poor quality sweat jobs not done properly).

The Shark-Bite and/or Gator-Bite fittings are okay but I do not trust them as I've had a few leak over time and just recently (July 4th) our friends were over celebrating with us for the evening and when they got home, they stepped into several inches of water throughout their house. They had a remodel job done and were waiting on the water faucet set to arrive to install a claw foot tub. The water supply lines were roughed in to the tub location area as needed and capped off with Gator-Bite caps till the faucet set arrived. Well, while they were gone, one of the caps blew off and completely flooded the house.

Their insurance company covered the cost to redo the entire house but they requested the home owner to provide them with the Gator-Bite cap so they could have it examined to see why it failed...appears they may go after Gator-Bite to pay them for the damages.

Roger, don't use Teflon tape, just use a dab of oil of any grade...cooking oil is okay as all it's doing is lubricating the threads to make it a little easier to tighten the fittings. To be honest, I've never used any oil in all the hookups I've done, but may try it the next time (which will be very soon as we've had the entire house remodeled and it's almost time to install the kitchen cabinets, etc.)

BTW, our house backs up to a creek and has a slab foundation. Over the years, our house, plus many others on the block, have had slab leaks over the years. A major part of the remodel was to by-pass all the copper lines in the slab entirely. I installed a 36-port manifold (have only 2 cold and 1 hot available as spares) with PEX insulated home run lines throughout the house connected to all the fixtures with PEX clamps (no gator or shark bites) including the exterior water spigots. No more slab leaks and no need for covering/insulating the exterior spigots in the winter time to prevent potential freezing of pipes...just shut the water off to them at the manifold! Screw copper pipes...once you go PEX, you'll never go back!

Thanks again Gary79Ag and everyone else. I went with traditional compression fittings and it was an easy job, and I have no leaks. I'll keep a periodic watch on them and all the rest of my shut-off valves from now on.

I used to shut off all the toilets, sinks, and ice maker lines when we went on vacation thinking I'd keep from coming home to a flooded house but now I think I'll leave them alone and just shut off the main.

I liked the recommendation to get some copper pipe and couplers and practice sweating when I'm not lying on my back half inside a wooden cabinet. That way I'll have that trick in the bag too when needed. 13 year old water heaters aren't going to last forever...

I've seen those whole house manifolds in the garage of a bunch of new construction near me, and I wondered if it is considered better, ar more problems waiting to happen. I'm always suspect on stuff like that in spec homes, figuring the only reason anyone is using it is it must be easier / cheaper to run. I guess time will tell, but not having a bunch of copper running through the slab is a bonus when foundation trouble strikes.

Thanks again to everyone for the great help.

And I forgot to mention in my first post, I had no receipt, old box, or any proof of purchase that showed I owned a Moen faucet, or that my builder put it in and I'm the original owner, etc. All they needed was a photo of the faucet and my word and they sent the replacement free of charge.