I am planning on building this workbench with a few tweaks. Any thoughts? Anything you would add or take away?

I am going to adjust the depth to 27 inches and add back legs so it will be movable.

Also thinking of wiring it up so I can easily plug in my tools and charger

That is very similar to one I plan to build Gig. The additional things I plan to add are a couple of drawers and doors to enclose the bottom sections. I'm also going to lower the bottom frame to floor level, with both a lower and middle shelf (in at least part of it). Will probably even make the middle shelf slide out for easier access - have a bunch of leftover drawer glides from a kitchen renovation.

However I plan to make a copy your drawing to use a blueprint.

Bottom shelf is going to get dusty. Might consider doors. Also, do you ever plan on upgrading your miter saw to a sliding miter saw? If so, check the clearance on the back.

Great idea on the clearance. I do eventually want to get a sliding miter saw.

I might put doors on it due to dust, like the ease of having everything out in the open but it will get awful dusty.

If you have an air compressor, then you don't have to worry about the dust. Just blow it clean every once in a while.

If you use the miter saw a lot (and I use it A LOT) I wouldn't build it into your bench. Keep it mobile so that you can drag it out and let the dust fly somewhere other than inside your shop.

^^^ That, unless you've got a central vac system.

I use my miter saw a whole lot. But having it built in is 90% of why I am building this bench. It'll make things a whole lot easier. I can always move it for remote usage.

Dust isn't as big of an issue. I catch most of it, and whether its on the bench or in the driveway, I'll still be cleaning it up.

I recently built a bench and used the best 3/4" MDF Lowes had to offer glued on top of decent cabinet grade 3/4 plywood. My design doesn't have as much support as yours suggests, so I went that way to have a solid yet flat as possible work top. I then topped that with 3/16 hardboard as an easy to replace work surface. Solid and flat. Put the 'rough' side of the hardboard up so things don't slide around. Only concern was high humidity could warp the hardboard corners, but so far no signs of that in my car-hold in San Antonio. I did shoot some brads into it along the edges, just for good measure. That top cost right at $100 but it is flat and solid. A good bench is worth the time and money. Good luck.

provide enough depth to put upright divider drawers (on back of bench and under wall cabinet/shelving) and tool boxes lengthwise for various screwdrivers, pliers, drill bits, socket sets, wrenches, etc.

a steel plate "somewhere" on the surface at
least 2'-0" x 1'-0" x 1/8" or thicker...

...figure out where you want your:
1. vise
2. bench grinder
3. drill press
4. etc... then, provide backing as required to hold and bolt firmly...

Shelves should accomodate various tool boxes and hand tools.

Upper shelving for smaller stuff, i.e., smaller hand tools, tapes, weller kits, torches/propane, glues, paint brushes, staplers/staples, etc.

I think I'd adapt it to have the mitre saw on a cart with casters that can lock into its place with the long benches on either side, or slide out for mobile use.

Actually - this would work great for anything that you might occasionally want to slide in there.

Same form factor slide in cart would work for a drill press, shaper, etc...

Anything that you might want to add supports on ends...

[This message has been edited by baumenhammer (edited 10/18/2013 2:21p).]

I build my workbenches with 4X4 legs. Makes things that much sturdier, though it isn't necessary.

I build a shelf just like the one in the picture, but put it directly on the floor. Shelves under benches aren't that easy to get to. The space under the shelf is dead space, and tends to catch a lot of trash. The shelf on the floor gets everything off the floor, but keeps crap from congregation beneath the shelf/workbench.

I use 2 X whatever fits boards for the top, usually 2X8 or 2X10 depending on table depth. If using for a saw table, plywood is okay though. I like to beat the crap out of things directly on the table when I need to. 2 X lumber doesn't bend and bounce anywhere near as easy as plywood.

I use screws instead of nails. I like to beat the crap out of things on the table when I need to. Screws move around a lot less than nails.

quote:

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I build a shelf just like the one in the picture, but put it directly on the floor. Shelves under benches aren't that easy to get to. The space under the shelf is dead space, and tends to catch a lot of trash. The shelf on the floor gets everything off the floor, but keeps crap from congregation beneath the shelf/workbench.

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I built a similar bench to the OP in my old house...think it was the same base plan. I built roll out drawers to go under the bottom shelf.

I really like the rollout drawers idea. That will definitely be an add on at some point

A 2x4 is adequate for the runner. 2x8 is excessive. I doubled the 2x4 and notched into posts and it is very over the top.

I got this thing built a couple of months ago. I saw the cool workbench posted in another thread and thought I'd update this one with my finished product.







Added some entertainment

My next step is to build a similar bench along the other wall that will have a drill press and the bottom will be enclosed cabinets.

I will also be building a metal welding table that fits right next to the new bench and rolls out when in use.

Looks good Gigemags! I wish I had the space to make a workbench like that!