I built a bookcase out of MDF that I need to paint. I had originally planned to use some latex paint I had left over after painting my guest room, but when I went in to get some other supplies the guy at Sherwin Williams said latex paint will not work well for furniture. He suggested oil based paint. This got me rethinking my whole plan. I've not been overly happy when I've used latex paint in the past.

Can anyone offer suggestions about the process for getting the best results? I've used oil based paint, but that was a long time ago. Should I sand between coats? What about a couple of coats of polyurethane over whatever paint I wind up using?

Thanks

What color will it be? I would recommend oil based paint unless you are using white. Oil based white paint tends to yellow.

Pro mar 200 water based alkyd will work well

It is an enamel with the properties of oil without yellowing and cleans up with water.

Make sure you prime it first.

I use zinser bullseye 123 latex primer as an enamel undercoater/primer available at any lowes



[This message has been edited by JP76 (edited 8/13/2013 1:28p).]

I was planning on an off-white on the outside of the case and a blue color on the inside to help match the room that the case will be in.

I don't remember having problems with yellowing on white oil based paints in the past, but like I said, that was a long time ago.

With the alkyd paints have problems with sticking to things on the shelf the way latex paint can?

If you ever have a problem with things sticking to latex paint (which can definitely happen), spend a few minutes applying some furniture wax. It will go on clear and offer some extra protection as well.

[This message has been edited by Brad06ag (edited 8/13/2013 3:34p).]

Sherman Williams "pro classic" alkyd paint. Dries hard and looks great. We did cabinets/woodwork in our old house. It is not tacky like latex.

+1 for Proclassic. I messed around with some other latex and oil options on a few furniture pieces that I was bringing up to date and the oils just wouldn't finish how I wanted and the latex finishes retained some tack.

I've since switched to using proclassic on all trim and woodwork and will never go back. Finishes milky smooth with no brush or roller marks and I haven't had any issues with sticking. I do still apply some furniture wax to any surfaces that will see heavy use (top of dresser, top of side tables) to keep everything in check.

With mdf, all you really need is a decent spray-on sanding sealer, more for the cut edges. Make sure to use a "tack rag" to collect any "fuzzies" first.

After that, pretty much any paint will do (barring only tempera and milk paints--those need a matte/flat primer so that they will stick).

And, you can use matte, satin, semi and full gloss paint on the sealed mdf and get very sharp effects.

Pro classic water based alkyd is the retail version of Promar 200 water based alkyd


The promar actually is easier to work with and retains all of the characteristics of pro classic at a lower price.

Thanks to all of you for your suggestions. I bought some of the pro classic last night. I'll give it a try in the next few days.