My wife and I visited SMDA for the first time a couple months ago. We booked a 2 hr walking tour on Viator that ended up being a private tour (nobody else showed up or booked it). It was awesome. The tour guide gave us a very personalized tour and lots of food recommendations.
We stayed at the Casa de Sierra Nevada Belmond. The location was awesome and very central to everything. We ate at Quince, La Unica, Tostevere, Restaurante del Parque (Belmond), Churros y Chocolate San Agustin (multiple times), plus some other places I can't think of. The food was all great, but TBH, most of the restaurants were trying really hard to be "upscale" and we were craving simple Mexican food by the end of our time there, so we also ate a few meals from street cart vendors.
Quince had the best sunset view of the church.