Update because we got home from our trip a couple of days ago.
Arrived in Palermo and drove to Agrigento (about 2-2.5 hours). Got a great deal on a rental car through my company discount code.
Night 1 - Stayed at a fantastic B&B for the night called Segreti della Valle, booked on Booking.com for a great price. Very clean and new room with a view of the Valley of the Temples, fantastic restaurant right downstairs, and breakfast included. They also arranged a tour guide for the Valley of the Temples for us.
Day 1 - Took a quick drive to Scala dei Turchi since it was only about 15-20 min away. Walked along the road and down to the beach and enjoyed the views of this unique formation.
Valley of the Temples was amazing. The park is very large, and similar to Roman Forum, I think a guide is a must. The ruins are amazingly well preserved, and the photos and views are gorgeous. We really enjoyed this and it was worth the trip.
Days 2-3 - Did a Cook the Farm stay at the Anna Tasca Lanza cooking school. This was amazing, and if anyone is specifically interested, I can give more info about it. I'll sum it up by saying the accommodations, staff, and food is the epitome of Sicily. We loved it.
Night 4 - Stayed at Susafa. I can't even describe it. It's probably the most unique property I've ever visited. It's literally in the middle of nowhere (the drive was interesting), and there is nothing but a few abandoned farmhouses for as far as you can see. Unfortunately, there was a rainstorm when we arrived, so we weren't able to enjoy the grounds and pool as much as I wanted, but I'm glad we stayed here. It feels very exclusive (but wasn't really all that expensive), and I kept thinking I was in a James Bond movie.
Day 4 - Drove to Cefalu, stopping at several villages in the Madonie Mountains along the way (Petralia Sonatta, Petralia Soprana, and Gangi). The drive is very scenic, and there are tons of options for things to stop and do in the Madonie mountains (towns, homes, scenic vistas, etc).
Nights 5-7 - Airbnb in Cefalu
Days 4-7 - Cefalu. I think this is the most beautiful town in Italy that I've ever visited,, and I'm so glad we stopped here. The harbor and beachfront areas are picture-perfect. Day 5, we hired a boat captain to take us to the Aeolian island of Alicudi. This was a very memorable experience that I highly recommend. The boat we hired was very reasonable compared to other options, and I can provide more specific details. Day 6, we walked around Cefalu, enjoying the town, and Day 7 we hiked to Rocca di Cefalu before departing for Taormina.
Another random highlight of Cefalu was the cemetery. We stumbled upon it on our way to the market, and it was amazing. Each family has its own little mausoleum that looks like a small chapel. Every single one is different. Some are traditional and others are modern, but they are all beautiful works of art. I've never seen anything like it, and we spent a couple of hours just walking around and taking pictures. We thoroughly enjoyed it.
Nights 8-11 - Gorgeous Airbnb in Taormina with an incredible view of Isola Bella. This was a modern, spacious, and clean 2 bedroom apartment with a full kitchen and large bathroom/shower at a VERY reasonable price, especially compared to hotels in the area.
Taormina was pretty crowded, even in early June. We didn't do a whole lot besides walk around and explore the streets and views. We also walked down to Isola Bella, but honestly, the view from our apartment was better.
Day 9 - Guided Jeep tour to Etna and Alcantara Gorge with Etnalcantara Tours. This was a fantastic experience. There were just 6 of us on the tour, plus the guide, who was VERY knowledgeable about the history and geology of Etna. It was also very reasonably priced. Since we also went to Alcantara Gorge, this took all day, but we were picked up and dropped off at our location.
Day 11 - Departed Catania airport for Milan to come home.
In summary, this was an amazing trip. We only scratched the surface of everything to see and do in Sicily. I had a very long list of options, and we simply didn't have time for it all. A big reason for that is, while it's not difficult to drive in the countryside and smaller cities, the speed limits are slow - we maxed out at 50-60 mph, but only a few times for short distances. Most of our travel was at 30-40 mph. So, it takes 2-ish hours to go maybe 60 miles (if you're lucky).
I would love to go back to Cefalu and do a longer stay at the cooking school. I'd also like to see more of the Aeolian Islands and visit Siracusa, Ortigia, and the fish market in Catania. Noto is supposed to be beautiful, too.
The food was amazing (as expected). Pasta alla Norma and caponata were highlights. Local wines and cheeses (especially the fresh ricotta) are delicious.