Heading this winter, thoughts, advice?

I've done it about 6 times...probably the best outdoor winter thing EVER.
You don't say if your doing a Snowcaoch or doing Snowmobiles. If your older...really old...snow coachs are just fine. Excellant way to see the Park. Nice and warm and comfy. I'd recomend if your doing the coach, stay in Jackson and book out of the South entrance. Jacksons just a cool town with lots to do...but, if your riding the "sleds", West Yellowstone at the West Entrance is the place to go, for two reasons..."The Snowmoblie Capitol of the World"...

1. You get up out of your bed, hit the sled and in less than 2 minutes you are in the Park. The park it's self is not the "greatness" it used to be.(I don't mean the sites...just the way they let you view them)

They have run off the old time Rangers and replaced them with Clinton era environuts who think the park is theirs and you have no right to be there. You have to have a Guide now and book through a certified park snowmobile company.(1st time there it's good idea to have a guide anyhow...and you don't have a choice anymore)

This new breed of Rangers are JERKS. They will follow you from dawn to dusk and actually ticket you and kick you out of the Park just for getting out of line of your group or falling too far behind your group. These guys have runined the park for the serious rider....but...that said...

Yellowstone in Winter is a site to behold and two days in the Park is a MUST. Personally, a trip down to the South and Old Faithful Lodge for lunch, maybe down futher and over to Yellowstone Falls, well, you can work that for a couple of days and see all the Gyser Basines you can stand. There are a few of the bigger ones off towards the North (this is from the West Entrance) and if you go far enough north towards Mamouth, there's some awesome stuff...but it's a hard ride and if you don't have a bit of experience on the sleds...well, anybody can drive them, but weatherwise, think motercycle at 50 miles an hour at minue 40 degrees...now, don't let that scare you, cause your having so much fun, that the cold is simply not really a bother after the first 30 minutes in the morning...and of course, there's always a "warming hut" just around the bend.

But, the second reason I'd chose West Yellowstone is that after yoyu've seen the Park you can spend a few days in the National forest on the South side of West Yellowstone...beautiful Alpine like views deep snow and you can OPEN THE SLED UP(many of my Pro-snowmobile driving friends say it's the best snow in the Rockies)...Do it like a trail ride, stop at taverns and bars along the way...an all around great time.

In short, I'd do both...a few days in the Park to see the "Wonder of the world", and a few days in the National Forest.

I've always had good luck booking through West Yellowstone Tour and Travel. They have good properites and good sleds...Three Bears Lodge is pretty nice...good rooms, nice little bar and a pretty darned good resturant.

Oh, and there's a Steak House outside of town...can't remember the name right off...locals will know it...you pick your meat, they cut it and then you cook it...a real Snowmobilers haunt...people come out of the woods on the sleds for a night of drinks and steaks...check it out. If I can think of the name I'll post it.

If you haven't book flights and such...let me know, and I'll give you what I think is the best way to get there and it's probably not what your travel agnet thought.

When you are in West Yellowstone, do you get around by snomobile or by car? Have heard conflicting stories on that one.

Is it important to have a snowmobile rented the entire time you are there?

Well, that has changed over the years. Used to be that you kept your snowmobile at your room, but now, those that I've dealt with require you to check them back in for overnight service and well, the nights are cold enough that you could sometimes find them hard to start in the morning. You might find a renter that just lets you keep them. Seems like I saw them over at the Holiday INN Sunspree.

But, I have found that just about all these guys are related by either business or blood. They all seem to work together and so one hotel or one renter generally is about the same deal. Although last time I was there I saw some folks that were clearly keeping them overnight, but I don't know if they were rents...but it is the best way to get around.

The town is sooo small you can walk anywhere. That said, we usually fly in through Salt Lake City to Idaho Falls and rent a 4x4 SUV and make the short, but scenic drive up.

If your coming in from the north, they have shuttles that run to West Yellowstone...it's OK, but I found they are crowded and you could have some amount of wait at the airport for the next shuttle. You can also rent cars there, but I have found them fairly unreliable also.

Personally, I find the Salt Lake to Idaho Falls trip much easier than going to Minniapois and then "puddle jump" for a full day into Bosemen (I think, can't really remember cause it's been awhile I've gone that way. You're flying NorthWest that way and well, they really sux.

But for me...I rent a car and that way you can go out of town to some of the more interesting resturants (you can also take your snowmobile I suppose, but leaving a bar at midnight and driving in the dark for 15 miles at waaay sub zero is not my cup of tea...anymore...I've gotten a bit old for that.
Anyhow...that's my two cents.

Wow, sounds like you have had some amazing trips! Our trip is setup, I believe, through the park itself. Its intended to be heavy on the wildlif viewing opportunities. I think we have reservations for two nights at Mammoth and one night at Old faithful. We are scheduled for snowmobiling I believe for two days. Hopefully we will be able to track down and see the wolves

[This message has been edited by taylorag06 (edited 11/19/2008 12:26a).]

Mammoth is a good place to come in. They have some pretty great sites up there also. Old Faithfull it's self is, well, it's OK, but the whole scene down there around the Lodge and visitor center is pretty fun. I rented a little cabin there one year and just stayed in the park. The quiet at night is almost overwhelming.

You are going to have fun and see stuff. (Yellowstone in winter) is even better than in summer, the steam freezes off the Gysers making strange shapes and it seems like another planet)

If your snowmobiling I would recommend Long Johns...NO COTTON.... Leave everything with cotton at home...oh, maybe a pair of jeans for at night, but nothing that touches your body outside...and liner gloves and liner socks....nothing cotton again. There are a couple of products with light blends, but by in large...stay away from it.

Gander Mountain,Cabelals and even Academy carry some good under garment type stuff. Get something like a muffler to put around your neck where the top of the zipper of your snowmobile suit or outer jacket leaves just a little gap at the top by your neck.

If you wear glasses...get out early and get the frozen steam off your glasses...they will freeze up whenerver you go from inside to outside. Carry a soft cloth for cleaning them....do the same with your camera...once your outside for the day, try and keep both outside as much as possible...use digital cameras as film cams can freeze up the moving parts pretty easy. If you use film you might have to keep it under your coat and close to your body and only pull if out for quick shots...although the "disposables" work pretty well.

Get you a little waterproof pack to carry this stuff, a change of both socks and liner socks in and take them when you hit the trail.... a little trail mix of something for snacks is good also as the varity of foods at the warming huts is limited and frankly, you are really going to be burning major energy constantly ...if you're taking kids...a MUST, cause they are going to get wet at some time and are going to get cold if they get hungry...you don't want to get wet.

All this stuff "wicks away" water and will dry at night just hanging it over a chair in your room...in minutes.

Have a great time....

oh, Buffalo don't give a damn about you and will be exactly wherever they want to be. You may well find yourself within feet of them on the road which they like to use during the winter. Move slowly past them, don't mess with them and they simply will not give a damn about you...but don't be a fool and try to touch them...there's ALWAYS somebody on a trip who's an idiot...just law of averages.

You're going to love this. As I tell my friends..."it's the most fun you'll ever have with your clothes on."

[This message has been edited by NITESIDE (edited 11/19/2008 8:13a).]

Eino's

That is the name of the bar where you cook your own steak. It is north of town several miles just past the 287 junction. That was our favorite joint when I worked out there.

Taylor, can I hide in your suitcase? Is Dr. Halfpenny involved in this trip?

Sounds like one heck of a trip.

chavez...YES!!!!! Great Montana meat and lots of good drinking going on there....love the place.

Was it better - booking a package or everything separate.

Would you recommend staying in the park or in W. Yellowstone?

Well, I like the packages, with me handling my own air and transportation. But it's nice to have your hotel, sled, snownmobile suit, gas and guide all together with the package.

I prefer staying out of the Park, but you can get packages with a night or two in the Park at the Lodge. Packagees also offer more extensive adventures with a number of days outside and around the Park where you stay each night in a mountain lodge...sort of Hostel like deal where they bring the food in at each one where you stop for the night. This is fairly rugged and you need to be in some pretty good heatlh to do this.
I prefer the package and you can usually chose a couple of days where you go to the national forest and aren't required to have a Guide. I beleive that anyway you go now, if your going into the Park you must have a company with a "ticket"...you can't just wander in on your own anymore.
Oh..yes, I prefer West Yellowstone, but Yellowstone housing can be fun for a night or so.

[This message has been edited by NITESIDE (edited 11/19/2008 10:10a).]

Thanks for the info. Do the trips leaving out of either W.Yellowstone or Old Faithful that are going to Canyon go by the lake or do they take that other northern route? Was hoping to see both in one trip.

Is the ride from W.Yellowstone to Mammoth worth it or would you time be better spent on another trip either inside or outside the park? Are there any other trips you would recommend - watching game in Lamar Valley, etc?

Also, I have not been able to find any packages that including nights both in W.Yellowstone and inside the park. They seem to be one or the other. Know of any packages that have both?

dallas....first picture the Park...it's really just a big circle with a north, south, east and west entrance. Basically, Old Faithful sits a little to the south of the middle of the circle on the west side. Mammaouth is all the way to the north and while very, very interesting it is a long hard ride even from West Yellowstone which is actually the West Gate of the Park.

At the South is Jackson, which is I beeive actully about 18 miles south of the South entrance. If your taking snowcoach, this is the place to be and their packages could also include a night or two in the Park at the Winter lodge...they close down the Giant one which is the worlds largest log structure during the winter.

The Lake and the Falls(Canyons) are on the South East side and also a good hard trip from West Yellowstone also..but can be done. Not sure I would attmept it from Mammouth unless I was staying the night in the park.

Best bet to see the most on snowmobile???Stay at West Yellowstone...most of the great Gyser Basins sit between just below Old Faithful up past the West Enterance about midway to the North-east of the circle.

I like West Yellowstone because it also sits in the National Forrest...(Targee I think)...and it's the only place you are going to get to "open the sled up and see "Alpine" like scenary...Yellowstone is not Alipne...but "other worldly"

I would call "Yellowstone Tour and Travel" in West yellowstone Montana...quick google will get you to their site...they are friendly an WANT YOUR BUSINESS... and ask them about a package that can stay inside the Park for a night...They have always told me they could arrange it, although when I stayed there last I booked it through The National Park Service at their Yellowstone website...it will be a ".gov"....it all belongs to them although they sell the concession to outside companies to manage the properites.

As for game watching, well, whatever is out during the winter and it is more limited in winter....you don't really have to do anything special...it's all around you and is struggling hard to stay alive and in general, follows the same road you will...snows too deep off the roads and they really don't care if your there or watching. Wolves I suppose would have to be hunted for, but I have doubts you would see them from anything but a great distance anyhow..

[This message has been edited by NITESIDE (edited 11/19/2008 12:59p).]

BTW...in some years if you go before about mid January snow can be "iffy"...they won't open the park if there's not enough snow...package guys will give you about 80% refund about a week out I think if you chose not to go...but weather can change on a dime...I've have arrived on a day when Park closed, only to have 15 inches of snow over night...so, never give up hope.
But on the Gov. website they not only give snow depth at various locations thougout the park, they have links to web cams so you can actually see what it looks like updated throughout the day.

One other thing to consider...as a Ranger told me..."this is the worlds largest caldera...it could go any second and is well past due"..."well, I said...thanks for scaring me".

He said..."oh, don't let it bother you, you would be the lucky one...you'd never know what hit you...gone in a flash, while the rest of North America, eveytbody that you knw and love will die a slow and painful death over the coming months"..."Oh, said I...That makes me feel a whole lot better."

Ha Ursus I don't blame I am extremely excited about this trip. I just hope my photos will be able to do it justice. I have never done a lot of snow/winter photography. And no to halfpenny being involved its the christmas present to myself and my rents. On a total side note I browsed the LSU wildlife collection last friday, have you been there? I was impressed with the mammal collection

I've heard about the LSU collection, but have never personally seen it. What is sad, A&M has a pretty decent collection too, yet most wildlife students rarely get to see it or take advantage of it.

Gee, that is a really nice Christmas gift. I get to drive from Texas to northern Vermont for Christmas (wife's family). It will either be a great trip or a fiasco and a half (complete with two beagles and a 3 month pregnant wife).

Two years ago, I got to see Mt. Washington (NH) in the winter, that was pretty cool (and damned cold). But your trip sounds more interesting at the moment

[This message has been edited by ursusguy (edited 11/23/2008 11:09a).]

That is a LONG drive my friend good luck with it, and I have always wanted to visit Mt. Washington perhaps that will be the trip next yr.

You are also absolutely correct about the TCWC I volunteered out there for a semester and am still really close with the curators and work with them from time to time. We always thought it would be fun to get some rollerblades and run through the herp and fish collections, kind of like a russian roulette

Snow photgraphy is going to be bright with lots of reflection on the sunny days...yoiu need some big filters or settings... Snow days...it's going to be dark and there's not alot you can do to brighten it.

I have heard about the hot springs that you can swim in, but that it is quite a hike to get to. Are there any accessible in the winter?

Great thread!

I have not been, but yes, I do seem to recall there being a trail with winter excessablity. This might be a Park Service Webpage lookaround Q.

Check out Death in Yellowstone: Accidents and Foolhardiness in the First National Park and you wont want to jump into a hot spring in YNP.

Well, I don't know alot about the hotsprings.. but I read about one that is tolerable temperature wise that is accessible(maybe only in summer time?) by backpacking to it...

I'm interested in reading about it though, do you have a link? I guess I will try google after work.

[This message has been edited by jpb1999 (edited 11/24/2008 4:59p).]

" It is illegal to swim in park thermal features (it damages the resource and is very unsafe), but you may swim in bodies of water fed by runoff from thermal features. An established spot is on the Gardner River two miles north of Mammoth on the North Entrance road; this spot is known as Boiling, or Hot, River. It is only open during daylight hours, and it temporarily closes during periods of high water."

Soaking in the Boiling River is listed as a winter activity.

Yellowstone is pretty cool in winter. I went specifically to shoot photos and think it went pretty well. I had a thread about it a few months ago.

http://www.texags.com/main/forum.reply.asp?forum_id=54&topic_id=1097006

Nice pics...used to take them myself...now I just say..."if you want to see it...go yourself." Something nobody should miss.

Niteside, I totally agree. I went to Yellowstone this summer, and about halfway through the trip I decided that I wasn't going to show anyone my pics, they would just have to go see it themselves...of course I wasn't able to stick with it, but I did have that same thought.

Jackson is a lot farther away from the South Entrance than 18 miles. It's maybe 10 miles from the entrance to GTNP, but a lot longer to Yellowstone.

Chris...somethings just have to be seen and I kinda feel like I'm letting my friends down if I don't insist that they go see Yellowstone for themselves.
Humm...Jackson never seemed that far to me from the south entrance...but then I usually drove it after a few hours at the Million Dollar Bar...and well, time does fly when you're having fun.

Aero, do you have advice for winter/snow photography there. I really have no experience with it. Most of my photography is macro work so this is a bit of a different beast for me to tackle