Retracing the Gonzales-Bexar road

8,445 Views | 8 Replies | Last: 10 yr ago by MacDawg75
SWCBonfire
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Of course, there are many highways and backroads in Texas that were once the trails between the far-flung outposts of Texas, most notably portions of Hwy 21 and numerous backroads between SA & San Marcos as portions of the El Camino Real, along of course with TX OSR. One of history's mysteries to me is why a large portion of the original route of the Gonzales to Bexar road was completely abandoned. As in there is no trace of the sucker that I can tell between Bebe and the Cibolo creek.

I've found old maps showing the route within the deeded portions of Gonzales county, so that is pretty easy to trace. Present day Hwy 97 is probably a close representation of the route down through Cost and down to Bebe. This route avoids Five Mile creek and crosses the tributaries of the Salt Creek where they are small and flat.

Part of the land paid in kind to Byrd Lockhart for surveying duties was on the road, at the confluence of O'Neil and Sandies creek SW of present day Leesville (I also know the landowners today, as probably does everyone else in Gonzales Co.) Up until this point it is pretty clear where the overall route was.



Where it goes after that is a little sketchy. I have found accounts of a "Forty Mile Hole" on a branch of the Ecleto Creek on the road. Teran described this part of the road through the post-oak sandhills of (now) Guadalupe or Wilson county as high, desolate, sandy and pretty miserable. This in no doubt contributed to alternate routes on the "high road" that crossed the San Marcos outside Gonzales and went in the general direction of Seguin, crossing the Guadalupe evidently around the confluence with Mill Creek.

From a hole on a branch of the Ecleto, I found a reference in this link http://alamostudies.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=texasrev&action=display&thread=142 where the route crossed the Cibolo below Martinez creek. That would put it near the current Zuhl crossing just outside St. Hedwig. I always assumed that the road from St. Hedwig (FM 1346) that turns into Houston & Commerce Street (Alameda St. back then).

I did find a reference that the Gonzales road is actually closer to Rigsby in crossing the Salado Creek (where they fought prior to the siege of Bexar):




That's actually a bit further south than I expected, tracing Commerce/Houston street beyond downtown. If I recall correctly, there was an illustration in one of the Hardin Books that had an illustration of old San Antonio... I'll have to look for that one.

This image shows the road running approximately from the Alamo to Gonzales:



It is likely that there were several crossings from Bexar to the road, depending on how the conditions were you may have had to detour to the Rigsby crossing that evidently was shared with the La Bahia road.

This still leaves a vast stretch of the road (between Bebe & St. Hedwig) that was completely abandoned at some point in time. The route was likely inhospitable to horse and wagon traffic, as it was largely sandy and probably with unreliable water, although the creeks back in those days had less brush and higher rainfall to work with and likely flowed year round, or at least had water in holes. It's not unlike any other road in Texas at that time, though.

Perhaps the lack of settlement is what induced people to travel the route near Mill Creek initially, and that then got pushed even more indirectly once Walnut Springs/Seguin became established.

It is interesting that with the advent of motor vehicle traffic the route was never resurrected. Until the completion of Hwy 90, I understand the driving route to San Antonio was through Seguin to New Berlin, rather than any direct route south of the Guadalupe.

If anyone has a book or map they can recommend, I would be very interested.
SWCBonfire
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I've found later accounts that the Sandies Chapel, Dewville and Albuquerque were on the Gonzales county portion of the road. During reconstruction, John Wesley Hardin killed a man in Albuquerque during the Taylor-Sutton feud. According to the handbook of Texas, Albuquerque lasted from 1870 to 1883. Dewville is pretty much the only thing left out there now, and the roads that intersect it are not remnants of the Bexar-Gonzales road as far as I can tell based on the location of the Sandies chapel cemetery and Dewville.



Image from this website

These communities sprung up I believe as a result of post-war immigration to Texas and the then-unused for cotton production bottomlands of the Sandies and it's tributaries, not as a result of them being on the old Bexar Road. I would be interested to see if the road was still in use at that time, or was already abandoned.
huisache
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Bless you, and keep it coming.
Apache
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Alright, I'm taking a week off during Christmas. We'll get horses, a case of whiskey and follow this danged road from Guntown to San Antone and ride them right into the saloon at the Menger. Who's with me?
SWCBonfire
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OK, evidently someone didn't think much of the route:

To our journey—we come to no more streams till we reach the Sewully 138 (Buffalo river) (Cibolo Creek) fifty miles from the Guadaloupe—what water lies between is only that which is found standing in deep holes formed by drains or sluices by which the superabundant waters are carried off in rainy seasons—these holes are 12—13 and 16 miles apart,—and between the two last named rivers the country is high and mostly sandy and thinly wooded—there is one stretch of 8 or 9 miles which seems to be one immense hill of the finest unmixed sand. I could compare our march thro' it to nothing but a slow journeying thro' a deep dry frosty snow—tho' widely differing in several respects—the excessive labour and fatigue to our animals—and the suffocating heat—it was early in Augt. we travelled along here — these Summer skies are unclouded—and the Sun's powerfully reflected heat was preserved unchanged in temperature by the stinted growth of post oak, black Jack and Hickory, that stands low bushy but thinly over this great scorching sand bank. I really think the burning wastes of Africa would be but little more intolerable to the thirsty traveller, were it not for the grassy verdure which I found to my astonishment every where growing in luxurious bunches out of this seemingly sterile unproductive portion of the earth—these bunches spring up at distances of 1—2 and 4 ft so that when the eye is placed near to the earth the whole country seems one compact surface of the most beautiful green—we were nearly a whole day getting thro' this fluid earth, admitting the term, for the sake of expression. It was in this dreary region I feared we should have to bury Captn. Lindsay—and such were the Dr.'s apprehensions would be his own fate—here also and every additional day seemed to prove to me that my own constitution had undergone a radical revolution—for notwithstanding my weakness at Gonzales and labours daily and nightly—my copious perspirations, I seemed daily and almost hourly to strengthen and even to fatten—these causes tho' much more lightly operative ever produced contrary effects in the summer seasons in the more northern latitudes where I resided—upon the whole, as a result—I really feel myself already acclimated tho' not yet wedded to Texas

J.C. Clopper kept a journal of his travels in 1828. I found a copy of it here

In the book Texas by Terán, I found a footnote that referenced the above account of Mr. Clopper. It added, "Despite its early use, no modern highway follows the Old Gonzales Road through this inhospitable and ruggedly haunting terrain."

As for the "Forty Mile Hole", a Swiss botanist named Jean Louis Berlandier described it as "Charcos de encinal", which in my busted Tex-mex translates to "live oak ponds" (or stock tanks as usually referred). In the same footnote as above it is referenced as being 1/4 inside Wilson county on the Ecleto creek, which would probably put it right at the junction of FM 1681 and Hwy 123. So a historically dependable water hole evidently lives on in two later routes.

A footnote in that same book suggested that the Terán crossed the Cibolo above LaVernia, and that later Erasmus "Deaf" Smith's league was "on the N.E. side of the sebola (Cibolo) above and below the road leading to Gonzales". Well, thanks to the GIS map viewer courtesy of the Texas Railroad commission I found that the southwesternmost (except A-32, which is only the southwest point) league in Guadalupe county was to an "E. Smith". This would put the Cibolo crossing near the present Skull Crossing of the Cibolo, named presumably for a later German immigrant.

SWCBonfire
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quote:



Alright, I'm taking a week off during Christmas. We'll get horses, a case of whiskey and follow this danged road from Guntown to San Antone and ride them right into the saloon at the Menger. Who's with me?



I better find a few extra pairs of fence cutters, looks like we'll need 'em. Either that, or find some good fence-jumpin' mules.
WHutto
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SWCBonfire - Your posts on the Old Gonzales-Bexar road are very interesting. Did you ever find a map that shows the Forty Mile Hole at Eclecto creek?

I found a reference to it in Texas by Tejas which documents a survey and author:
Forty-Mile Hole on a branch of the Ecleto, now in Wilson Country about a
quarter of a mile south of the Guadalupe County line in the vicinity of Hwy
123. The waterhole is shown in A.M. Erskine's survey of July 24, 1874, found
in Guadalupe County Record Book M, p 556, a copy kindly provided by local
historian Karon Mac Smith.

Karon Mac Smith wrote a book about the area published in 1988, but is out of print. She lived in Nixon Texas but has unfortunately passed away.

I am interested in find the exact location of the watering hole to to try to locate possible artifacts that might be left behind by travelers. The Ecleto creek is nearly dry and filled in with sand these days.

Thanks
WHutto
CanyonAg77
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As someone who has traced parts of Route 66, the Oregon Trail, and the Santa Fe Trail, just let me say:

I love this kind of crap.
p_bubel
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How did I miss this the first time 'round?
MacDawg75
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Great thread
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