I have started this post several times, but never actually followed through with it. I thought it may be helpful for those of you with some Christmas money in your pocket who are tossing the idea of a road bike around in the ol' noggin. I say go for it.

Below are a few pointers for buying a road bike. These are the opinions of a relatively new cyclist that did not know what a road bike was a few years ago. It is all information that I would have liked to have known back when I first got into the sport. Some of the details may be a bit different for buying a different type of bike but most of the basics will be the same. If there is something I missed that you feel someone should know, or if there is something that you disagree with, please post. I am far from an expert and compared to many on this board I can't even claim to be a "cyclist".

1. Type of bike:
The following descriptions are my summaries of wiki's longer list.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_bicycle_types

Road: designed for speed, lightweight frames and components, drop handlebars to allow for a powerful and aerodynamic riding position, narrow high-pressure tires for minimal rolling resistance and multiple gears.


Mountain: off-road cycling, various types of suspension and brakes


Time trial (Tri bikes): more aggressive frame geometry that throws the rider into (i.e. "aero" ) riding position, sacrificing manoeuvrability for aerodynamics.


Track: if you are shopping for one of these you know more about bikes than I do.
Cyclo-cross: similar geometry to road bikes with wider tire clearance and a different brake setup.


Fixed: single speed, no freewheel, no brakes

Note: If you plan to ride a "fixie" do not forget your skinny jeans


Single Speed: One gear with a freewheel

2. Bike fit
Bike fit is the most important thing to consider when buying a road bike. Visit your Local Bike Shop (LBS) and sit on a few different bikes. This will give you an idea of what you feel comfortable on and a relatively accurate size. There is a ton of value in feeling comfortable and developing a relationship with your LBS.

It may be a good idea to know the basic bike parts before the initial visit:


Below are some Texag's user recommended bike shops:
feel free to make a recommendation

Austin
Jack and Adams
Barton Springs
http://www.jackandadams.com/

College Station
Aggieland Cycling
817 Texas Ave. South
http://www.aggieland-cycling.com/

DFW

Tri Shop (TexAg's Nixter's Shop. Ask for Trent and tell him you're "from the internet")
6101 Windhaven Parkway #100
Plano, TX 75093
(972) 378-5476
http://trishop.com

Dallas Bike Works (tell Boyd that Ben sent you)
4875 W. Lawther
Dallas Tx 75214
Ph1: 214-343-BIKE (2453)
http://www.dallasbikeworks.com/

Richardson Bike Mart
1451 West Campbell Road
Richardson, TX
(972) 231 - 3993

Plano Cycling & Fitness
605 18th Street
Plano, TX 75074
972-423-4130
http://planocycling.com/

Houston

Bike Barn
Several Houston locations
http://bikebarn.com/articles/store-information-pg55.htm

Tri on the Run
Located near Memorial Park
Specalizes in Tri/TT Bikes
http://www.site.triontherun.com/

Bicycle World of Houston
2 Locations (Rice Village and West Houston)
Road, Tri, Mtn, Cruisers, and other types of bikes
http://bicycleworldofhouston.com/

The Woodlands

Bike Lane
Located in The Woodlands area in the Sam Moon Center one mile north of Research Forest Drive on the I-45 feeder northbound.
936-321-0200
http://www.bikelanehouston.com/

Bike Land USA
19189 I-45 S. Ste B
The Woodlands, TX 77385
281-362-9253
http://www.bikelandusa.com/


San Antonio, TX

Ride Away Bicycles
11075 West Interstate 10
Suite 305
San Antonio, TX 78230
210-696-9925
Fax: 210-696-4764

Ride Away Bicycles
2838 N. Loop 1604 E.
Suite 104
San Antonio, TX 78232
210-495-BIKE

Ride Away Bicycles
5519 N W Loop 1604
Ste 108
San Antonio, TX 78251
210-543-BIKE(2453)
Fax: 210-520-4791

http://rideawaybicycles.com/



3. Sizing
It is so important it gets 2 bullets. One size does not fit all and some brands run larger than others. In general, a 54 cm bike is a "medium" and will fit someone between 5'8" and 5'10". A perfect fit will depend on your inseam, torso length, arm length etc but the following chart is a decent guide.


4. Frame
There are a few options on frame composition (carbon, aluminum, titanium, or a combination).

Frame composition hierarchy (There are some exceptions to this but for the most part this is accurate.):

(high-end, lighter, $$$$)
Titanium
Carbon
Aluminum
Steel
(entry level, heavier, $)

I recommend at least finding a bike with a carbon fork. Most entry level bikes made in the last decade have a carbon fork. A carbon fork will have less vibration and be more comfortable on longer rides.

5. Components
The quality of component group also varies between entry level and high end bikes. There are different brands of components with the most mainstream components being made by Shimano and SRAM.

The Shimano road bike component hierarchy:
(high-end, lighter, smoother, $$$$)
Dura-Ace
Ultegra
105
Tiagra
Sora
(entry level, heavier, not as smooth, $)

SRAM Road hierarchy:
Red - race level. comes with zeroloss shifting. similar to dura-ace.
Force - high quality, but less emphasis on carbon bits. lighter than ultegra.
Rival - enthusiast level. nicer than shimano 105.
Apex - entry level. similar to shimano 105

I personally think a Sora/Tiagra mix would be fine for most folks getting into cycling. If you are a clydesdale (200 lbs+) you may want to stick to 105 or greater for durability purposes. I know others on here have recommended never going below 105 level components for any riders.

6. AVOID MASS MANUFACTURED BIKES.
Any bike you can buy at Walmart or Target will be a heavy, rough shifting, pile of metal that will piss you off. $150 at wally world may sound like a much better deal to "just try it out", but trust me on this... it is not the better deal. If you take one thing away from this post, let this be it. These bikes will almost always turn a newbie away from the sport. Just go ahead and give me the $150. In return, I will drive you a few miles away from your house, wipe some grease on your hands, kick you a few times in unpleasant places, let you walk home in spandex and we will call it even.

Some of the respectable brands are Bianchi, Cannondale, Cervelo, Fuji, Felt, Giant, Jamis, KirkLee*, Lemond, Look, Marin, Masi, Scott, Specialized, Trek.

7. Prices
Much like an automobile, bikes depreciate as soon as they leave the store. There are folks with different opinions on the buying new versus buying used.

Buying used will save you a good deal of money. You can often find package deals of folks selling a bike with the necessary accessories: helmet, shoes, pedals and computer. When buying used it would be a good idea to take someone that knows about bikes with you. Definitely take the bike for a test ride and shift through every gear. Also inspect the bike for dents, rust, cracks, and how true (straight) the wheels roll. It wouldn't be a bad idea to meet the seller at a bike shop and have them give it a quick inspection.

That being said, there is real value in the services that come with a "new" purchase. Many bike shops offer incentives which could be useful for new riders such as free tune-ups (typically $40-60), free bike fits (typically starting at $50), teaching you how to change a flat, and warranty services.

There are lots of variables that would go into pricing, but my opinion on a little budgeting guide is as follows:
Entry-Level (Sora/Tiagra, carbon fork): used $300-500; new $700-900
Mid-Level (105, carbon fork and seat stays): used $600-800; new $1000-1500
High-end (Ultegra/Dura-Ace, full carbon): used $1000-2000; new $2000+

Some good places to look for used bikes:
http://houston.craigslist.org/bik/ There is not much traffic on the College Station board. You will find more options on Austin, Dallas, and Houston.
http://forum.slowtwitch.com/forum/Slowtwitch_Forums_C1/Classifieds_F2/
http://www.woodlandsonline.com/clps/clscatlist.cfm?cmid=33 A "classifieds" for The Woodlands, Spring, Conroe area
Please post if you know some others.

WARNING: If you find a ridiculously good deal on a bike that is way too big or way too small for you, do not buy it thinking you can "make it work". You will pay for it later!

8. Must have accessories:
Helmet: $20-300. They all meet basic safety standards. The lighter, more comfortable, more aerodynamic and sexier helmets will be more expensive.
Cycling Shorts: $30-150. These have a thin padding and can prevent chaffing, both of which will make logging miles much more comfortable. To quote someone here on texags "..give me a good pair of shorts and I'll ride a 2x4."
Shoes: $50-300. The stiffer the sole the more power transfer to the pedals and therefore the more efficient you are. Money will get you lighter, sexier, more comfortable shoes and carbon soles.
Pedals: $25-250. Big difference of opinions on pedals. I would say the most common are platform with toe clips (these come on most bikes purchased new), Look, SPD, and Speedplay. Make sure you coordinate your pedals and shoes purchase to ensure compatibility.

Platform with toe clips (these suck):


Look (typically used for road and tri's, have a 3 hole cleat):


SPD(typically used for mountain bikes and spin bikes, have a 2 hole cleat):


Speedplay (road and tri, have a special cleat that is compatible with the Look 3 hole design)


Cyclocomputer: $30-1500. The cheaper ones will be wired with less features. The top of the line will have GPS, display power, connect to your PC etc. If you are just starting out, a basic unit that tracks speed, distance, and time will be sufficient.
Pump: $20-$100. I recommend getting one with a pressure guage.

There is an unlimited number of optional accessories. Some places I have ordered from in the past:
http://www.nashbar.com
http://www.jensonusa.com
http://www.probikekit.com/ (longer shipping)
http://www.performancebike.com


The required Intangibles
9. Vanity added by Aggie00...can't believe I forgot vanity!
You must make sure all gear is color matching and your bike is pristine. Do not spare a dime when vanity comes into play. This becomes even more important if you are buying a tri bike.

10. The Rules added by Atty_Ag...very important to listen to legal
http://www.velominati.com/blog/the-rules/
*respectfully disregard rule #42



What else did I miss?

[This message has been edited by cjo03 (edited 2/3/2013 2:21p).]

9. Vanity

You must make sure all gear is color matching and your bike is pristine. Do not spare a dime when vanity comes into play. This becomes even more important if you are buying a tri bike.





staff, let's get a sticky on this thread.

[This message has been edited by AggieOO (edited 12/30/2010 3:38p).]

Thank you so much for posting this. I'm planning to buy a bike in the next six months, but had no idea where to start.

+1 for sticky

Good post and can't ditto enough about not buying from Walmart or Target.

Thanks for the good info.

Does anyone have recommendations for bike shops to buy a new bike? I live an hour from College Station, and between an hour to an hour and a half from both Austin and Houston.

you're welcome.. hope it helps some folks out.

00, updated

carmine, good idea. if anyone has recommendations for bike shops, let me know and i will consolidate up top.

cjo - you might want to note that "vanity" is just posted in good fun. Its obvious to those of us that ride, but maybe not so much to a newbie.

Good post

Dallas Bike Works is my shop in Dallas at the southwest corner of Northwest Highway and Lawther. 214 341 8921. Boyd will treat you right.

Good post - should be a sticky.

Other Dallas shops that I frequent:

Richardson Bike Mart http://www.bikemart.com

Plano Cycling (I prefer this one, though they don't have the same brands as RBM)
http://www.planocycling.com

Performance Bike (Plano or Online) is great for buying name brand odds and ends (computers, tubes, shoes, pedals, helmets) at a price that is less than the smaller, local stores.

It may be somewhat misleading to place aluminium above steel for purposes of identifying levels.

If a steel frame is made and doesn't go to a big box it will be more $$ than an al frame. This is a relative new phenomenon though.

+1 on the sticky

For Bike Shops, there is a new Bike Barn that just moved out to 290 in Cypress (http://bikebarn.com/articles/store-information-pg55.htm) and I also like Bicycle World and Fitness on Memorial at Dairy Ashford (http://bicycleworldofhouston.com/). There are also 2 Performance Bike locations in Houston if you want to see firsthand what you are looking at online.

One thing on fit...it is VERY important, and to me is the best service a LBS (local bike shop) has to offer a beginner that makes buying new from the LBS a better deal than going used online. For women, there are women's specific geometry bikes. You will see various opinions on whether they are a marketing gimmick or not, but for certain women, they are a necessity to fit on a bike properly. Most women can probably be properly fit to a unisex model, but some, especially those with long legs and short torsos need the shorter cockpit length and easier reach that the WSD bikes provide. So if you are sitting on a bunch of bikes and the fit just doesn't seem to be right, look into the women's specific bikes and see if they work any better for you. My wife ended up with one a while back and can't believe how much better it feels than her previous bike.

Lastly, if you are planning to eventually do longer distance road riding (~25+ miles) go ahead and do yourself a favor and avoid the flat bar bikes and get a regular road bike handlebar. There are limited hand positions on a flat bar and you will end up with sore, numb hands and in worst cases, a condition known as cyclist's palsy if you ride a flat bar bike for long distances.

Well done.

Can't believe your picture included labels for the reflectors but not one for the dork disk.

Seriously, though, great summary.

Might want to add something in the same theme as OO's "Vanity" section for the "Must Do" things after you get your bike in order to look cool.

- Remove reflectors
- Remove dork disk
- Flip stem
- etc.

culdeus - do you think there needs to be more of an explanation than the comment already in parentheses? i am not real familiar with steel so feel free to provide a short explanation that would not confuse a newbie. i think most steel bikes that a person shopping for a 1st bike might come across will probably be one of the cheaper used bikes they see on craigslist (and probably older with downtube shifters).

great post.
+vote for Blue Line in Houston - they'll steer you in the right direction on bikes.

and YES - get to know a local bike shop where they're passionate & don't buy from Target or Academy or wherever.

Well, for the most part when people come in wanting a road bike (90%+) they have a budget for everything under $500.

They also typically know nothing of what constitutes a "good" used bike for that price, if such a thing exists.

Steel bikes for the most part are not produced by any competent manufacturer anymore in the entry level. You might find a 29er in steel, or a messenger bike, but that's it. Surly makes about the only ones with entry level gear and they retail around 1200 or so depending on the model and options, and aren't really ideal all-around bikes. Also, finding those used is going to be damn near impossible.

What the "What bike can I get for 500 threads" usually devolve to is outlining types of gear suitable, and sometimes include links to craigslist, etc.

It may be useful to organize the FAQ with something like:

For 500 shoot for providing examples of gear to get new, at 2 years old, and at 4 years old. Also state what the minimum is to seek out in that price range.

Repeat at 1000, and 2000.

I can't recall anyone ever coming in for something >2k to this site.

BCS - Aggieland Cycling

sheldonbrown.com contains more information than anyone can memorize.

I'll take on other components sets. I'm going to ignore Campagnolo because they're damn expensive and incompatible with everything.

SRAM Road
Red - race level. comes with zeroloss shifting. similar to dura-ace.
Force - high quality, but less emphasis on carbon bits. lighter than ultegra.
Rival - enthusiast level. nicer than shimano 105.
Apex - entry level. similar to shimano 105.

Shimano Mountain
XTR - top of the line. overpriced.
Saint - built for extreme/tech riding
XT - high level w/out being ridiculously priced. great value.
SLX - mid level. high quality but not light.
Deore - mid/beginner level.
Alivio - entry level

SRAM Mountain
XX - high level. 20 speeds. bling-bling.
X0 - race level. lots of carbon. fragile. expensive.
X9 - mid-high/race. similar to shimano xt.
X7 - value priced but nice. similar to slx.

"tell Boyd that Ben sent you"

Ben who? I race with DBW/Hooters team.

Austin... Jack and Adams on Barton Springs.

"The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants."
-Thomas Jefferson

Steve, I'm Ben. I don't race with them, but I'm in there a lot.

ttt

(manual sticky, muahhahahah)

Adding to the OP,

Other quality bike shops in Houston are:
Tri on the Run
Located near Memorial Park
Specalizes in Tri/TT Bikes
http://www.site.triontherun.com/

Bicycle World of Houston
2 Locations (Rice Village and West Houston)
Road, Tri, Mtn, Cruisers, and other types of bikes
http://bicycleworldofhouston.com/


[This message has been edited by agslax (edited 1/3/2011 12:59p).]

Always follow The Rules:
http://www.velominati.com/blog/the-rules/

nice addition atty... i would like to quote some of them (i.e. rule #5) but i may get banned! so i'll stick with the link.

thanks walter.. added the bit about sram road up top.. i left the mountain info off because mountain bikes are irrelevant

For Houston: add Urban Bicycle Gallery on Nett Street in between Shephard and Durham

quote:

---

sheldonbrown.com contains more information than anyone can memorize.

---

agreed

[This message has been edited by sts7049 (edited 1/5/2011 2:52p).]

For Houston
Urban Bicycle Gallery

Oh, and on the shorts. DO NOT wear underwear underneath them. Chaffing on that first long right is not a fun issue to deal with.

Marking my spot in this thread to come back and write down some thoughts. I'm no expert in all that is cycling, but I've got a few thoughts crammed into this brain of mine.

Mods make this a sticky or make me a mod and I'll make it sticky.

+1 for h&f-mod-dave

Don't go to bike shops for all gear and equipment. I buy running clothes from Academy for a fraction of the price that all the bike snobs buy their over-priced biking gear. (Except for bike shorts, get a good pair of those)

Also, my bike computer cost $15 and it does everything the expensive ones do. (and it is wireless)

Another great thing to get for cyclists is the Park Tool Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repair. Worth every penny and pays for itself on your first tune up.