Guys,

I need a little advice from those that have experience with the E4OD transmission.

1995 Ford Bronco - 190,000 miles - Will not shift properly as you accelerate and then it shifts really hard and the transmission overdrive light starts flashing.

I have replaced the speed sensor with no impact.

Unfortunately, it's an ODBD 1 so troubleshooting electronics is more difficult (especially nowadays).

I would get the transmission rebuilt but I'm trying to make sure that would definitely fix the issue.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Does anyone know of a good knowledgeable Ford (transmission) expert in the West Houston, Richmond area?

I owned a '95 F-150 in high school. It started developing harsh shifts, probably from me deploying the tow/haul button as a manual downshift. On the recommendation of my shop, I agreed to a transmission flush, which made the problem 10x worse. But this Tomball kid had a hot date the next day to see the Nutcracker in downtown Houston (first time I'd ever driven there). We reached I-45/Crosstimbers when it dropped all gears but 1st. What a disaster.

I don't have advice other than don't get a transmission flush.

Boy that story sounds familiar.

My high school story was heading to go fishing in Texas City in my '77 Trans AM only to have a front wheel bearing let loose while going about 75 mph on I-45. We managed to limp into Montgomery Ward automotive center at Northline Mall (real close to cross timbers).

That was the last time I paid to have anything repaired on that car. I learned how and rebuilt every system on it (including how to repaint the entire car). Those were the days!

I've dealt with this a few times on my 95 bronco.

VSS goes from rear end, to the ABS ECU, to the PSOM (speedo), and finally to the transmission. Does your speedometer and interior lighting work? If not, IIRC, it's fuse 8, That will cause the transmission to do what you're seeing.

The ABS ECU can also cause issues with the signal. No one makes a replacement. You can bypass it with a jumper wire. The ECU sits under the washer fluid/coolant reservoir so gets a good soaking. There's a diagram on fullsizebronco.com that shows how to bypass.

Last thing is the PSOM. That's harder to test without a scope to see if it's outputting the right signal. Easier to just pull a cluster from the JY if you suspect this.

Thanks so much for the input.

This is the type of technical reference information I need.

Interior lighting and speedo work properly.

Given your experience, Is it your opinion that a rebuild is probably not going to resolve the issue?

I have a 97 F250 and when I bought it had this problem at the early stages. No warning flashes yet but hard shift. I negotiated a rebuild in the sales price. Got another 20,000 miles out of it and then she went. Had it recently rebuilt with upgraded components / torque converter to be set up to haul better and she's rock solid now.

I think you're headed for a rebuild one way or another. But that's just based on my experience in a different vehicle / use setting.

TdoubleH said:

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I think you're headed for a rebuild one way or another. But that's just based on my experience in a different vehicle / use setting.

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I agree on the rebuild but if the core problem isn't resolved by a rebuild, it can destroy the rebuilt transmission.

MaroonDontRun said:

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Thanks so much for the input.

This is the type of technical reference information I need.

Interior lighting and speedo work properly.

Given your experience, Is it your opinion that a rebuild is probably not going to resolve the issue?

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Without driving it, it's hard to say. I thought for sure mine was slipping when that was happening but VSS/fuse 8 and PSOM fixed it.

I think I'd take a risk on a used PSOM just to see if that's the cause. It's a quick and cheap replacement. Only potential gotcha is the little plastic cable going to the shift indicator can be a pain to take out.

One other thing it may be - the P in PSOM stands for programmable. The PSOM can be adjusted for shift points based on tire size. There's a single wire connector under the ashtray next to the floor. If you jumper that, it'll let you scroll through the different calibrations. This was part of my fix. PO put on 35s and never adjusted the PSOM. Easy enough to check if it's the right calibration. Video below should show the steps.

The guy who badly rebuilt the 4L60 in my 2dr tahoe said the E4OD was worse/more expensive to rebuild. If you do get a rebuild, I'd suggest throwing on a 4R100 pan from a 98+ F150. Nearly the same transmission but the 4R100 pan has a drain plug and is a direct swap.

My money is on PSOM, it's a common failure. The OD flashing means codes are being stored, it's worth getting the codes off of it. Keep in mind if you change the PSOM you lose your odometer reading. There's an eprom chip soldered onto the board that stores all that stuff, you can move it over if you are careful. Is the airbag light blinking? If so, what is the blinking pattern? For example, 2 blinks followed by a pause and then 3 more blinks is code 23

If you end up having to have a rebuild then I'd swap the E4OD for a 4R100 transmission. 4R100 is an upgrade over the E4OD due to its improved internal components.

BurnetAggie99 said:

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If you end up having to have a rebuild then I'd swap the E4OD for a 4R100 transmission. 4R100 is an upgrade over the E4OD due to its improved internal components.

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I looked into this a while back. I don't think the stock PCM will control a 4R100. There was just enough differences. I switched to a Stinger PIMPx PCM a few years ago and I know it won't

Do you have any details showing this will work?

When either my engine or trans goes, the truck is getting an LS with a 4L80. Ford EFI aftermarket support on those trucks is just so poor.

txyaloo said:

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BurnetAggie99 said:

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If you end up having to have a rebuild then I'd swap the E4OD for a 4R100 transmission. 4R100 is an upgrade over the E4OD due to its improved internal components.

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I looked into this a while back. I don't think the stock PCM will control a 4R100. There was just enough differences. I switched to a Stinger PIMPx PCM a few years ago and I know it won't

Do you have any details showing this will work?

When either my engine or trans goes, the truck is getting an LS with a 4L80. Ford EFI aftermarket support on those trucks is just so poor.

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The original E4OD PCM won't have any problems controlling the 4R100. Since you changed it out to after market Stinger would have to likely change it again. I'd keep it all Ford. My uncle last year dropped a 347 Ford crate stroker engine(replaced the stock 302) in his 1995 Ford Bronco. Also a Gen 3 5.0 Coyote swap in a Bronco would be nails

I am going to buy a used PSOM just to see if that changes anything but mine seems to be working correctly. I'm not sure if there would be any signs of failure.

It doesn't look like mine has been programmed away from factory as it still has 6 resets remaining.

Are your tires stock sized or do you have a lift/33s/35s?

Here's the details on the ABS ECU bypass. Free and worth attempting at least

https://www.fullsizebronco.com/threads/how-to-bypass-the-4wabs-module-for-troubleshooting.141328/

The link is much appreciated.

Tires are 31s so not stock but I've had these on the truck for years and the transmission issue is fairly recent.