So I did some deep research into Ravelco today for my 2021 F-250 6.7 and found out it is essentially just a switch that interrupts two circuits in your pickups' starting process. What those two circuts are is up to the tech that installs it.

Source: https://ravelco.fun/?en (This is a pretty interesting article, I like when he question's their Stats on number installed.)

It got me thinking, one could just get a key switch like this,
2 Wires Ignition Switch Key Starter Switch with 2 Keys On-Off for Electric Scooter ATV Moped Go Kart (1 Pack)
and wire it into the fuel pump relay or starter relay and hide it. Now I'm no electrical engineer and have the most basic of electrical knowledge but, wouldn't you essentially have a Ravelco for less than $20? I know it would be easier to defeat than a Ravelco if the switch is found but it would be better than nothing.

Another option would be to wire the switch into the shift lockout switch on the brake pedal. If you did that, the pickup would still start but they couldn't get it into gear unless they bypass it. I assume a thief wouldn't take the time to do that if they were in a hurry and just move on. The advantage to this route is that I can still remote start it when I want to.

Feel free to punch holes in my logic since it is just an idea or give me advice on what you would do.

Did something similar to my 89 pathfinder after a break in. Not sure if it would work on a more modern vehicle.

Shifter lock solenoid is what most of the factory systems are tied to that wont allow you to drive away without the key. What you're describing is just an analog version of the same thing but adds another step for the dbags to overcome. Could be as simple as a hidden switch or you could actually use a secure keyed switch.

My tundra, bought used, came with an immobilizer relay swapped in place of a standard relay. It was a wireless proximity dongle on the keychain and worked great until it didn't, and i swapped back to std relay (which was in the glove box, ha). So yes, there are other ways.

I really don't know on modern stuff, but wouldn't push button start eliminate the ability for them to bypass? Or is the exploit they are using on newer trucks the same for both key start and push button start?

If not, you shouldn't have cheaped out and got a key ignition like an lol poor… kidding obviously.

And to take that even further, would this exploit be the same on F-150s since they have the same cab?

Pro tip, don't park your expensive truck anywhere near 35 south of Austin, or anywhere in San Antonio. If you live there I guess it's time to move or drive another vehicle….

Kidding, kind of.

The Keyless pickups are alot easier to steal since all they have to have is something that copies the key's signal. My pickup is a keyed truck. If it was a push button start pickup, I would just disable the key sensor that is on the back wall behind the seat and put a switch on the sensor that is underneath the front cup holders. That way the pickup wouldn't receive they key signal until you flip the switch.

JSKolache said:

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My tundra, bought used, came with an immobilizer relay swapped in place of a standard relay. It was a wireless proximity dongle on the keychain and worked great until it didn't, and i swapped back to std relay (which was in the glove box, ha). So yes, there are other ways.

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I'm running the same on a few older cars. It's called the Cyclops TAM. Apparently they won't work on newer Fords according to someone who reached out to them a few months ago. They were supposed to have a revised version out this year.

Sure, you could install 25 hidden switches and buttons that make it impossible to crank without each one hit. Or, you could up your insurance coverage and then it is Allstates problem. Let them worry about it.

For the push button starts, after they break in, they pop the hood, swap the ECM module for one of theirs and they have the matching FOB. Runs just like if they had taken your FOB.

EMY92 said:

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For the push button starts, after they break in, they pop the hood, swap the ECM module for one of theirs and they have the matching FOB. Runs just like if they had taken your FOB.

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Makes sense. So realistically harder to steal keyed. Thanks for the info.

Battery "kill switch" with a quick disconnect.



Sure, you have to pop the hood and remove the knob and put it in your pocket, but this is going to stop the smash and grab theft, right? May not stop the overnight thief who has time to figure it out, but the parking lot bandit isn't going anywhere with a truck thats got a disconnected battery.

txyaloo said:

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JSKolache said:

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My tundra, bought used, came with an immobilizer relay swapped in place of a standard relay. It was a wireless proximity dongle on the keychain and worked great until it didn't, and i swapped back to std relay (which was in the glove box, ha). So yes, there are other ways.

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I'm running the same on a few older cars. It's called the Cyclops TAM. Apparently they won't work on newer Fords according to someone who reached out to them a few months ago. They were supposed to have a revised version out this year.

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This is brilliant. 12v Keyfob relay sets are $20 on amazon. Put one of those dudes in fuel pump circuit or something ignition related and the car is not starting with the relay open. Easy to bypass if the relay or fob go bad, just pop it out and twist the wires back together (as long as you know where it is...someone trying to steal the car is not going to troubleshoot it, they'll just move on) . Since my car got stolen last year I'm paranoid and use a club but have no delusions that it will slow down anybody with a basic pick set and youtube. I'm ordering now.

Exactly.. just happened to me and I lost about 15k getting a similar truck back to what I had.

And the headache.. they basically held the check until I got aggressive with the bull**** delays.

Same man!! Had mine stolen in early February. It's been a terrible experience.