I have a 2011 F150 that appears to not be blowing super cold air anymore. Before the winter, I'd cool the whole truck with the thermostat set at 74 and it would blow cold air and keep everyone comfortable. Now, coming out of winter, I've started to use the AC again, but I have to push it all the way down to 60 degrees and even at 60 it does not feel as cold as the 74 degrees I was feeling a few months back.

Could this just be a Freon issue? What else might be the problem?

Help is appreciated.

Anyone?

Low refrigerant could be an issue, time to slap some gauges on it.

Go to an auto parts store and buy a can of this or something similar.

https://m.autozone.com/a-c-charging-and-refrigerant/r134a-refrigerant/a-c-pro-c-pro-r-134a-a-c-pro-premium-not-for-hybrid-vehicles-with-electrical-driven-compressors/974769_0_0?aqs=

Follow the instructions on the can. This is your least expensive first step unless you already have HVAC equipment.

don't do this

Seriously, a proper diagnosis and recharge at a shop is like $80-$100. Way less risk than a $35 can of refrigerant.

Quote:

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VivificusGo to an auto parts store and buy a can of this or something similar.

https://m.autozone.com/a-c-charging-and-refrigerant/r134a-refrigerant/a-c-pro-c-pro-r-134a-a-c-pro-premium-not-for-hybrid-vehicles-with-electrical-driven-compressors/974769_0_0?aqs=

Follow the instructions on the can. This is your least expensive first step unless you already have HVAC equipment.

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Please do not give advice on here if you dont know what you're talking about.

Worked for my truck.

Please tell me why this is harmful for the truck. I'm here to discuss topics just like everyone else. I'm not an automotive mechanic, or an HVAC tech.

Dill-Ag13 said:

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Seriously, a proper diagnosis and recharge at a shop is like $80-$100. Way less risk than a $35 can of refrigerant.

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Im genuinely curious, what is the risk of checking the refrigerant pressure using one of those kits? Based on OPs post he didn't want to take it in for a diagnostic, or he would have already done it.

you are only checking pressure on one side with those cans. you need proper gauges for hi and low side in order to really know how the system is working.

sts7049 said:

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you are only checking pressure on one side with those cans. you need proper gauges for hi and low side in order to really know how the system is working.

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This X eleventy billion.

Without knowing whats going on with the complete system, you have no idea if you have a restriction, a weak compressor, a huge leak, etc.

My grandfather had a slow leak in his car AC. Once a year I'd add a can using one of the gauges that comes with a can of refrigerant. It worked fine for that, but we knew what the issue was. In this case he's not sure what the problem is. I jacked around with my AC for a while one time and ended up having to take it somewhere. Not the same symptoms, but it ended up being a temperature sensor that had failed and was reading negative 20. It wouldn't allow my ac to turn on at that temp. I say that to say you never know when dealing with ac systems. Adding refrigerant isn't always the answer.

I've been meaning to write a thread on HVAC basics for a car but never got around to finishing it.

While low refrigerant is the cause for a majority of the time, it is not the only cause of no cool air. There are a bunch of issues and looking at one side of the system will more than likely get you into trouble. And then you get to spend more than $35 to fix it.

~egon

And I didn't want to help because your part of the conspiracy!

I'll get out of the way so y'all can stop ripping me a new one. Maybe someone will actually try to help OP. All he got so far was my stupid suggestion, "slap gauges on it", and take it in to the shop.

I was going to recommend changing the blinker fluid but now you have me all insecure.

Vivificus,

I appreciate you trying to help. This is why I asked for help. I figure if somebody gives bad advice or inaccurate advice, it will eventually come out in the thread. If nothing else, you were part of the process where good advice eventually surfaced.

OP, arent you in NW Houston?

Come by the house this weekend and we'll put gauges on it.

Like Dr Doctor said, 90% of the time, its just low refrigerant, but we want to be sure.

1Ags,

I'm in The Woodlands. You close by?

1agswitchin4lanes said:

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OP, arent you in NW Houston?

Come by the house this weekend and we'll put gauges on it.

Like Dr Doctor said, 90% of the time, its just low refrigerant, but we want to be sure.

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Actually, I was going to argue that 90% of the time the cause is a slow leak, which results in low refrigerant. Modern cars are buttoned up pretty damn tight these days. But 8 years is a long time...so I guess you'll find out.

Most of the time it is due to a leak.

However, it's not always the case, if you start pumping more refrigerant into a system that is properly charged, you may end up creating new leaks or blowing the compressor.

You might take a $100-150 repair job to a $1500 repair job because you didn't diagnose the problem.

1. Rent high/low gauges from auto store
2. Plug gauges into high/low side of AC system. The plugs are different sizes so you can't mess it up.
3. Turn on car with AC at full blast
4. Record the pressure on the gauges and take note of how the high side responds when the compressor cycles.

With this info you can most likely determine the problem. If it is indeed low on Freon you can use the gauges to top it off accurately. I would add some UV dye so you can tell where your leak is since it's low.

*Everything I know I learned from Egon, a sticky thread on this would be awesome
** I live in Spring with gauges if you want to come by and plug it in.

Update:

I took my truck to Christian Brothers Automotive here in The Woodlands and they said that it was running about 20 percent of the refrigerant it was supposed to. They said they found a small leak in a "service port" which they replaced and fixed. It seems to be blowing fine now.

Total cost came to $258, but that also included an oil change and tire rotation as well.

i hope the fix is the correct one.

RightWingConspirator said:

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Update:

I took my truck to Christian Brothers Automotive here in The Woodlands and they said that it was running about 20 percent of the refrigerant it was supposed to. They said they found a small leak in a "service port" which they replaced and fixed. It seems to be blowing fine now.

Total cost came to $258, but that also included an oil change and tire rotation as well.

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$258 dollars for an Oil Change and Tire rotation ($39.99 at Ford dealer with Coupon).

Here's the schraeder Valve...$2.99

And then Evacuate and recharge....

Wow.....

Gotdam

No clue what they actually did, but an actual evac and recharge is usually $100+ iirc.

Me reading this thread

RightWingConspirator said:

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I have a 2011 F150 that appears to not be blowing super cold air anymore. Before the winter, I'd cool the whole truck with the thermostat set at 74 and it would blow cold air and keep everyone comfortable. Now, coming out of winter, I've started to use the AC again, but I have to push it all the way down to 60 degrees and even at 60 it does not feel as cold as the 74 degrees I was feeling a few months back.

Could this just be a Freon issue? What else might be the problem?

Help is appreciated.

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Place the unit on high max cold then check to see if your compressor is running. Low pressure will hold the compressor clutch out, sometimes if the charge is marginally low the compressor will cycle on and off constantly. If your unit has a sight glass (high side) bubbles and turbidity will indicate a low charge. If so, only charge minutely with one can or less (do not over charge). There are other variables, but these will get you started.

evan_aggie said:

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No clue what they actually did, but an actual evac and recharge is usually $100+ iirc.

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There are tools out there to replace the valve cores without evacuating the system.

Chances are, they replaced the core with the tool and topped it off.

What brand of gauges is recommended for someone who wants garages but realistically would not use them often?

Sounds like vivificus had the best and cheapest idea after all. $35 / year for 5 years would basically have done just as well. It's a 9 yo truck.

Harbor freight.....