Yesterday was the 3rd time this has happened in the last year.

1pm - go to lunch and car doesn't start on first try but then starts after and is a little slow to start

2pm - Car won't start at all - 1 click and thats it. Battery shows its fine and all stuff on the inside of car comes on when inside the car and trying to start.

3pm - Friend comes to jump my car, car again won't start after numerous tries.

4:30pm - Tow truck shows up to tow me to auto shop that i've used for the other two times, and sure enough it starts so I drive there.


Today:
12pm - auto shop calls and says they can't find anything wrong and have tested it a bunch and say the battery is testing fine as well.


This shop has previously replaced the starter, replaced spark plugs and done a few other things to try to fix the issue.


Any idea what could be going on?

Tahoe with 85k miles - battery is a couple years old I think.

Check wiring and Neutral safety switch.

If it doesnt start in park, try neutral (with the parking brake engaged).

Thanks. Will have to remember that next time it doesn't start. Just sucks it's random and can't figure it out once it gets to dealer.

It's Auto Doc in Houston for what it's worth.

Not sure if the tahoe's had this issue but the 2007-2014 denali's (yukon & xl) had an issue with the body control module draining the battery due to the coding. There was a TSB flash for it to fix the issue.

this may be said above. I don't think you need to have a foot on the brake to start (at least in my 2007) but if you do, could be the brake position sensor or some variation of it

Corps_Ag12 said:

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Not sure if the tahoe's had this issue but the 2007-2014 denali's (yukon & xl) had an issue with the body control module draining the battery due to the coding. There was a TSB flash for it to fix the issue.

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But why would it be able to start right back up a few hours later. I'm sure I'll end up randomly having this issue in the next 4-6 months again and will be stuck somewhere.

'11 LTZ Tahoe with 85k Miles - just debating when/if I should sell it.

Happened again at 7:30 tonight. Got mad so just went inside the house and 30 min later it's starting right up.

Make sure all power connections are tight and clean. At battery, inside red box near alternator, & at fuse box.

What does the voltmeter do when you attempt to crank, remain constant or drop?

Any aftermarket audio/video equipment installed? My brother had a 2014 GMC pick up that had a similar problem. It was a software glitch that caused it

Was just at the shop yesterday and they said battery was good and they are pretty thorough. So I'm sure they made sure all connections were fine.

Nothing aftermarket on it.

Guess I will be going to the dealer tomorrow.

Derek,

I think 1ags may have something. The next time this happens, run the 'gear' selector through the gears and then back to Park to try again.

I've seen guys spend hours screwing with this issue and they can't believe it starts when I tell them to run it through the gears and try again.

I think the neutral-start switch/sensor could be sticky or flaky.

What's funny is I went to go try this and decided to just try to start it first to make sure it was still happening and it fired right up. Will have to try that immediately next time this happens.

An Intermittent issue like this almost always means something electrical. Check neutral switch and also brake switch.

Died multiple more times on Friday morning - tried all the advice above and would finally start but not right away - not sure if anything was actually helping or not.

Dropped off at Knapp Chevrolet on Friday around 1:30 - still don't have a diagnosis for me.

Bad fuel pump?

My parents had an Expedition that would sometimes start and sometimes not. Each time they got it to a shop, the shop could turn it on no problem. They eventually replaced the fuel pump and it starts every time now!

Satellite of Love said:

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Bad fuel pump?

My parents had an Expedition that would sometimes start and sometimes not. Each time they got it to a shop, the shop could turn it on no problem. They eventually replaced the fuel pump and it starts every time now!

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He says it wont even spin the starter. That has nothing to do with the FP.

Aggie09Derek said:

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Died multiple more times on Friday morning - tried all the advice above and would finally start but not right away - not sure if anything was actually helping or not.

Dropped off at Knapp Chevrolet on Friday around 1:30 - still don't have a diagnosis for me.

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I'm guessing its electrical, either a wiring issue or a maxi fuse with a hairline crack in it.

This may not be on point but my Tahoe will have zero electrical power sometimes for no reason at all. Also, I can be driving and the dashboard and electric locks can go beserk. A no power episode happened once out in the country one morning and I had AAA come out. They jiggled the battery and the electrical power returned. I later had my tech clean and tighten the cables and problem was solved for awhile. In Googling searching i found similar GMC electrical problems addressed. They surmised the factory ground wire could be a culprit and should be replaced.

Your battery cables could be corroded internally possibly.

Positive and negative cables both have resistance in them and they are saying itll be ~$725 to replace with labor.

My problem is that if I fix this, it may not fix the starting issue.

Just weird it has done this for 9 months with 3 separate groupings of it failing.

Aggie09Derek said:

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Positive and negative cables both have resistance in them and they are saying itll be ~$725 to replace with labor.

My problem is that if I fix this, it may not fix the starting issue.

Just weird it has done this for 9 months with 3 separate groupings of it failing.

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$725 for battery cables? Holy chit!

Can't speak to the 2011, but 96-05 s10s and Silverados were known to have pretty terrible power and grounding wires. You can probably find a buncha threads on "the big 3" upgrade.

Called the other shop I've used before and they said that was about right - said it takes a little while to do. Who knows.

I just don't think that is going to fix the issue....maybe I'm wrong though.

Has to be a short somewhere.

I was having this exact issue awhile back, finally it wouldn't start and a new starter fixed it right up, but was mentioned that it's already been replaced.

FWIW replacing power cables isn't hard.

Aggie09Derek said:

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My problem is that if I fix this, it may not fix the starting issue.

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Yeah, and you're talking about $725 to take 'a spin on the wheel', not $25.

This reminds me of the oldtimer who told me once that he'd taken his truck to (4) different shops who 'worked on it'. Now, he said, "I'm taking it to a shop that'll FIX it".

I dunno. I'm not really that familiar with your vehicle. Is there any way to jumper around the potential problem spots (cable?) to determine 'exactly' what is wrong?

Resistance in cables seems 'iffy' to me. Maybe that is the problem, but I'd be pissed if I paid $725 to have them replaced and the problem is still there.

Know why they quoted $725?




They think you would balk at $800. That is complete Barbara Streisand.

What types of shocks are available for $1500. Asking for a friend

Since picking up tahoe last week I've been getting "Hood Open" message on dash, opened and shut hood multiple times and still been getting that message.

Service guy said "oh that happens, must be a messed up latch" even though i've shut and closed it bunch and it randomly does this right after picking it up. Told him that there must be something electrical going on still, so now leaving it at the dealer for god knows how long.

They said it was going to be $225 to fix

Told them no way and to take it out of the labor charges for the cables.

Manager calls me and says they don't do that, but will try to talk to foreman and see what they can do

Next day calls and says my car has been fixed that they were able to get the hood message to go away by just spraying some stuff on it.

Go to pick it up and sure enough message is on as soon as i put it in drive.

Manager refuses to understand on why i'm a bit upset. Don't tell me its ready back to back times when something is going on with it.

He is now ordering the other part and haven't discussed if I will be paying or not...

I'm starting to wonder if maybe the latch/switch isn't messed up but if its just some big electrical problem....who knows. Not sure where else I will take it next if this continues to happen.

Online i've seen when the hood open message is on you shouldn't be able to do the remote start on vehicle but mine still works....not sure if that means anything or not.

Taking wife's car to Austin for the weekend (baseball regional) so we don't have to hear the "hood open" noise the whole drive there and back.

If you want a good laugh read Knapp Chevrolet's Service Dept's Yelp page.

MouthBQ98 said:

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Your battery cables could be corroded internally possibly.

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This. it doesn't happen often, but it's a simple fix. replace all the cables in between the battery and starter before you spend one more penny on diagnostics.


NM - if I had read ONE MORE POST I would have seen your resolution. haha

Aggie09Derek said:

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They said it was going to be $225 to fix

Told them no way and to take it out of the labor charges for the cables.

Manager calls me and says they don't do that, but will try to talk to foreman and see what they can do

Next day calls and says my car has been fixed that they were able to get the hood message to go away by just spraying some stuff on it.

Go to pick it up and sure enough message is on as soon as i put it in drive.

Manager refuses to understand on why i'm a bit upset. Don't tell me its ready back to back times when something is going on with it.

He is now ordering the other part and haven't discussed if I will be paying or not...

I'm starting to wonder if maybe the latch/switch isn't messed up but if its just some big electrical problem....who knows. Not sure where else I will take it next if this continues to happen.

Online i've seen when the hood open message is on you shouldn't be able to do the remote start on vehicle but mine still works....not sure if that means anything or not.

Taking wife's car to Austin for the weekend (baseball regional) so we don't have to hear the "hood open" noise the whole drive there and back.

If you want a good laugh read Knapp Chevrolet's Service Dept's Yelp page.

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I'd suggest some place that is willing to buy it from you!

Towns03 said:

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MouthBQ98 said:

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Your battery cables could be corroded internally possibly.

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This. it doesn't happen often, but it's a simple fix. replace all the cables in between the battery and starter before you spend one more penny on diagnostics.


NM - if I had read ONE MORE POST I would have seen your resolution. haha

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We had this with a 2008 Tahoe that was fairly new. Incredible number of problems until they changed the battery cables. The vehicle was not reliable throughout it's lifespan. It left my wife stranded one too many times.

Bump. Knapp couldn't figure out what the hell was going on and they gave up on it.

Sold the Tahoe to Texas Direct Auto after getting a few offers elsewhere and negotiated the TDA offer up a good bit.

Congrats on selling your Tahoe. I haven't given up on mine yet but the electrical issues are becoming more frequent and severe. Yesterday, I drove back into the city and my radar kept re-starting anytime I put on the blinker to change lanes. I could literally feel the electrical surge going through the Tahoe with the door locks going up and down and the stabilizer warning light coming on and off - all from turning on the blinkers. So bizarre.

Will have the cables and ground wire replaced this week.