2010 F150 Rear Pinion Seal Leaking

7,226 Views | 10 Replies | Last: 8 yr ago by 1939
M-Neezy
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AG
I have a slow leak on my 2010 F150 4x4 at the rear pinion seal. It is not fast enough to leave oil on the ground but is fast enough to coat most of the diff with oil, especially after the last cold snap.

Anybody have any advice on how tough of a job this would be? I consider myself above an above average driveway mechanic, do all my own oil, change spark plugs, replace brake rotors, help a friend replace his intake manifold and carb on an old truck, etc. Am I right in thinking this is too critical of a job to do myself or is it even easier than it appears on YouTube?

The truck is not a daily driver now, but if anything happened for me to lose my company truck (tough times in the oil patch) it would need to be. For the same reasons I would like to save money and do it myself if it seems like I have a reasonably low chance of messing it up further.

Any insight would be appreciated.
will.mcg
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I've never done it on a Ford. It was pretty straight forward on my Dodge 1500. Disconnect driveshaft. I think there was some large bolt I could've removed with channel locks but I'm a bit OCD & I scoured the Internet for the correct size before tackling the job. Remove old crappy seal. Clean surface, install new seal. Put everything back together & top off the diff with fluid. Maybe an hour unless something goes wrong.
M-Neezy
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I think that is the same conclusion I am coming to. Thanks for the info.
Agmechanic
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If its not dripping, dont mess with it.
Shelton98
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Mine has been leaking for 6 or 7 years.... I just top it off every time I change the oil. Heard too many stories of people over tightening the nut and fubaring the rear-end.
Bighamp03
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quote:
If its not dripping, dont mess with it.

This is my philosophy. My Jeep does this. I bought the new seal a year or so ago, but have always had another priority over fixing it.

I also read that you can seriously screw up your rear end by not torquing it correctly.
Agmechanic
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Ford rear ends have a crush sleeve in them that sets the preload on the pinion bearings. It a one-time use item and TECHNICALLY absolutely must be replaced when the pinion nut is removed. I have been successful in reusing them but you have to know what you are doing. Leave the seep alone.
will.mcg
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Mine has been leaking for 6 or 7 years.... I just top it off every time I change the oil. Heard too many stories of people over tightening the nut and fubaring the rear-end.


When I removed my nut I put the socket on it & got ready to wrench down with all my might.....I could've removed it with my fingers with little effort. Perhaps that's why it began to leak?
M-Neezy
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AG
thanks for the feedback everyone. I may have understated the leak as it is a little heavier than just a a coating. I am going to get my mechanic to do the job. Could probably do it myself OK but want the peace of mind that it won't lock up cause I got the preload wrong or something similar.

Maybe on an older car or one that I didn't need to work properly at highway speed I would just do it myself, but this truck spends most of it's life driving to and from camping, lease, etc.

Appreciate the info shared.
BrazosDog02
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My experience with mechanics is rarely 'it gives me peace of mind that they know what they are doing" or "it gives me peace of mind that its done right".

My experience is generally "It gives me peace of mind knowing someone else will be responsible for any and all damage if they aren't more qualified than me."


:P
M-Neezy
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Don't disagree with that for "a" mechanic in general, but "my" mechanic has proven to be the exception in this case. Maybe that just means he hasn't messed up my cars yet, but this guy has been good to us so far.
1939
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Had this happen to mine, same year and model. I was nervous and had it fixed at the dealership and it cost a little of $400. I should have just gone to a regular mechanic i'm sure it would have been way less. Mine was pooling on concrete though.
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