Help getting fuel rail on 03 F150

3,079 Views | 6 Replies | Last: 11 yr ago by 1agswitchin4lanes
aggie1357
How long do you want to ignore this user?
Have a 2003 Ford F150 w/ 166k miles, has the 4.6L

I tried taking the fuel rail off to change out a coil and couldn't get off just maybe 1/2" raised.

I then realized I should probably probably just use an extension and a swivel and work around it (what a concept)

Anyways now I can't get the damned thing to seat back like it should so I can get the back bolt back on. I have done some research and answer seems to be to trip the fuel shut off and run it out of gas. I have done so but still no budge... It seems like the injector closest to the firewall doesn't seem to want to go back in the injector.

I did drive it today a little as is... after a few miles I got a gas smell and noticed a very small amount was leaking around said injector.
1agswitchin4lanes
How long do you want to ignore this user?
quote:
Have a 2003 Ford F150 w/ 166k miles, has the 4.6L

I tried taking the fuel rail off to change out a coil and couldn't get off just maybe 1/2" raised.

I then realized I should probably probably just use an extension and a swivel and work around it (what a concept)

Anyways now I can't get the damned thing to seat back like it should so I can get the back bolt back on. I have done some research and answer seems to be to trip the fuel shut off and run it out of gas. I have done so but still no budge... It seems like the injector closest to the firewall doesn't seem to want to go back in the injector.

I did drive it today a little as is... after a few miles I got a gas smell and noticed a very small amount was leaking around said injector.



First, you never need to remove the fuel rail on these modular Fords. I can even do the back ones on a V10.

Now that you have pulled them out, there are O rings on the top and bottom of the injector that are 11 years old.

You may have cut one of the O rings "going in dry"....my suggestion is to buy a set of upper and lower Orings, remove the injectors from the rail, use your favorite assembly lube or motor oil and lube the new ORings making them nice and pliable for insertion, and install the top and bottom rings onto the injector. Insert the new injector into the rail, and then repeat for the other 3, make sure the bottom rings are nice and lubed. Line them up to the ports and apply gentle pressure to ease them in slowly. Use the rail bolts to tighten to make sure they're in good and tight.

After that, cycle the key off and on a few times to make sure you're not spraying fuel and start the truck, check for leaks/fuel smell.
aggie1357
How long do you want to ignore this user?
I never actually got it out, just raised about half an inch or so.
1agswitchin4lanes
How long do you want to ignore this user?
Thats enough to break an o-ring thats been immersed in heat and gasoline for 11 years.
dubi
How long do you want to ignore this user?
Oh crap...
ballchain
How long do you want to ignore this user?
Shelton98
How long do you want to ignore this user?
Not sure about the 4.6L, but in my 5.4L ('02) I've never been able to change coil/plug #7 without taking the fuel rail loose. The rest of them - no problem. #7 - beotch.
1agswitchin4lanes
How long do you want to ignore this user?
4.6, 5.4, 6.8, 2 valve, 3 valve, 4 valve....done them all, never had an issue and never had to remvove the rail....those V10s are dirty hoars tho..
Refresh
Page 1 of 1
 
×
subscribe Verify your student status
See Subscription Benefits
Trial only available to users who have never subscribed or participated in a previous trial.