As the title says, our Voyager won't stay in drive or shift into drive. It's an automatic trasmission. It has happened to my wife a few times. She said she would stop at a red light, get the green light, give it gas and it just revs the engine. Usually moving it out of D and then back in to D worked.

I went out to go to work today and couldn't even get up the driveway (slight incline) because it wouldn't stay in gear.

I don't know much about automatic transmissions (always had a manual). I'm going to check the transmission fluid when I get home tonight (assuming low fluid could be part of the issue). I need the car on a flat surface and the engine at operating temperature, right?

Any other help is greatly appreciated.



[This message has been edited by Lavender Gooms (edited 9/23/2013 5:52a).]

having it on a flat surface is best and you should usually check the fluid when it is warm. I'm assuming you have the 4 speed auto as well? Will the car stay in a lower gear? if it does then I suspect you might have a larger problem than just low fluid.

Also the shift boxes made for the 05-07 300/charger/magnum had an issue where you couldn't get it out of park. There is a pink piece of plastic in the shifter box that would break. you might do some searching on a vehicle specific fourm and see if that is the case.

Yes, it's the 4 speed auto V6 engine.

quote:

---

Will the car stay in a lower gear?

---

I'm assuming you mean will it not shift into 3rd and/or 4th gear and that is not the case. When it actually stays in Drive, it shifts through all the gears fine.


The van shifts out of park, and I'm pretty sure Reverse works just fine as well, so I don't think that's the case.

Thanks for the advice.

quote:

---

Also the shift boxes made for the 05-07 300/charger/magnum had an issue where you couldn't get it out of park. There is a pink piece of plastic in the shifter box that would break. you might do some searching on a vehicle specific fourm and see if that is the case.

---

Those are all RWD applications and floor shift.

OP has a column shift and is not talking about physically moving the shift lever.

OP, when was the fluid last changed or even checked? My guess is that the fluid is at a BARELY sufficient level, and the cooler weather causes the fluid to contract and has now become low. I get this a lot with people complaining about power steering noise levels when the first cold snap hits or "it only makes the noise when cold".

Remember to put the correct fluid in your van. Probably ATF+4 (read the dipstick).

If you've never changed the fluid, you may want to consider doing so. Not flushing, just drain and refilling it.

Bingo 1ags!

Checked the fluid twice last night a few hours apart and both times there wasn't even enough to touch the dipstick. I don't know when the fluid was last changed as we've only had the van for a few months. I bought a qt of ATF+4 and put it in. I don't know if it's enough, but it got me to work today. I'll check it again tonight.

I do think the van is leaking trans fluid. I had noticed spots on the driveway and thought they were coolant (had a hose leaking a few months ago that I fixed), but now I think it may be the transmission.

quote:

---

If you've never changed the fluid, you may want to consider doing so.

---

Is this a pretty simple DIY job? Is it pretty much the same steps as draining the oil for an oil change?

You don't happen to know how much these transmissions hold? I searched the owners manual and the repair manual and it just says what kind of fluid, not the capacity.

Its not hard but just kind of messy because you have to drop the pan.

Drain and refill takes around 4 quarts. Here's the issue, you don't know how the car was driven or maintained. Lots of times, if you flush (DO NOT HAVE THIS DONE), or drain fluid, there's stories of transmissions cratering because of the fresh fluid because its never been changed.

If it were my car, I'd use a fluid extractor, such as this one,http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7400-Liter-Fluid-Evacuator/dp/B000JFJM14/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1380022150&sr=8-1&keywords=mighty+vac+extractor

and go down the dipstick tube, and drain out a quart or two, measure what you took out and refill it exactly to what you removed, drive a 500 to 1000 miles, repeat the drain and refill, and drive another 500-1000. etc. Fast and easy without having to get under the car and make a mess.

This method lets you gradually replace the fluid rather than shocking the system.

Heres the deal about transmission fluid. The fluid really only breaks down from heat. Changing fluid renews the fluid and replenishes the additive packages that get used up over time.

The plus side to buying this extractor, is that it allows you to also drain and refill your power steering fluid and suck out the brake fluid in the reservoirs.

Anyway, sorry for the long post, but the drain and replenish a little at a time will ensure new fluid without shocking the system.

EDIT:

REading your transmission leak where are the drips? driver side right on the same spot close to the tire? Could be the pan gasket or transmission cooler lines.

Did you check the fluid after you poured the quart in? dont overfill it. You'll make the leaks worse.

[This message has been edited by 1agswitchin4lanes (edited 9/24/2013 6:35a).]

That fluid extractor looks like a much easier solution than dropping the pan.

I couldn't tell you exactly where the leaks are. I'll have to take a look at it over the next few days.

I didn't check the fluid after I added it (running late and only have a <10 minute drive to work). When I check it tonight, I'll note if it's too full.