Palo Duro Canyon

6,979 Views | 18 Replies | Last: 11 yr ago by CanyonAg77
Bose Ikard
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Planning a trip with my wife and two young kids to Palo Duro Canyon during a Thursday-Sunday in late September. Any advice on where to stay, where to eat, what to see?
Rocky Top Aggie
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AG
Couple of questions: How old are your kids? Are you wanting to spend the whole time in the PD state park or do you want to see some of Canyon,Amarillo, surrounding areas?

We just moved away from the area after living in Hereford for 4.5 years. I worked in Amarillo and did graduate work at West Texas A&M. I'll give you my opinion on some things.

Things to do:

In Canyon:

Palo Duro Canyon State Park (obviously!) http://www.palodurocanyon.com
Could take as little as and hour or so to several days if you are in to hiking. It is really impressive and a sight to see. The visitors center is worth a walk-through. They have camping and some cabins on-site.

Panhandle-Plains Historical Museum. http://www.panhandleplains.org/pages/home.asp
Again you can take an hour or 8 hours to go through the museum. Really a great museum. It's on the WT campus so you could take a walk through campus while you're there.

In Amarillo:

Discovery Center http://www.dhdc.org/ Neat place to visit. The Botanical Gardens are next door to this, too.

American Quarter Horse Museum. They have a good kids area.

Pretty cheesy, but you can stop on I-40 and take your picture at the Cadillac Ranch. The kids might think it's fun to crawl around the old Caddies.

There is a small zoo in Amarillo if you're wanting to get outside for a bit. Nothing super impressive but a nice little zoo in the city.

Surrounding areas:

Drive on some of the county roads to see cattle feedyards (20,000 to 80,000 head typically). Impressive to see (but I'm biased as I did my graduate work in feedlot cattle nutrition!) Lots of farming and irrigation pivots, too.

Places to eat:

Hands down the place I miss the most is El Tejavan in Amarillo. Awesome, authentic Mexican food (not Tex-Mex)http://www.eltejavan.com/index.php

Avoid The Big Texan if at all possible. Overpriced, mediocre food.

For breakfast or brunch, Ye Olde Pancake Station is great! http://pancakestation.com/
There is usually a wait (especially on the weekends) but worth it.

My kid just woke up from a nap. I'll tend to her and as I think of more, I add to my post.
Bose Ikard
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Thanks! Kids are very young, but we will do short hikes.
CanyonAg77
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AG
Good choice, and I agree with a lot of Rocky Top's recs.

First, you really need to try to stay IN the park. There are a trio of CCC-era cabins on the rim that have an out-of-this-world view. They are pretty simple, so if that's not your style, stay in town. You'll want to bring food to grill if you stay in the park. The "Cow Camp" cabins are primitive, really just camping huts.

There are several nice trails, and a little playground near the first water crossing. Check the TPWD web site

http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/state-parks/palo-duro-canyon

as well as the "Partners in PD Canyon" web site that RTA linked above. Often, there are activities going on that are a lot of fun. If you're lucky, the astronomy club might set up one night.

September is a good time to come. The canyon helps moderate the weather, but it is usually warmer and less windy there than the surrounding plains. September weather is variable, so be prepared for anything from high heat to cool, wet and windy. Always, always, always carry plenty of water. If it ever rains again, September is a rainy month (for this part of the world) Be prepared for flash floods if there are thunderstorms.

If you are from a big city, plan to stay in the park past sunset one night. You will not believe the number of stars in the sky.

Depending on your schedule and preferences, a side trip to Caprock Canyons State Park might be fun. It is much the same type of terrain as PD Canyon, and less developed. The additional attractions there are the free-roaming buffalo herd and a small fishing lake.

Lodging: We have two new hotels in Canyon (5-10 years old) a Best Western and Holiday Inn Express. They will be the closest to the park (12 miles) and a few blocks from the museum RTA talked about. They are off the freeway, and in a quiet area of town (mine)

The Buffalo Inn on 23rd street is pretty old, but seems well kept. Avoid Knights Inn on south 23rd street at all costs.

The Hudspeth House B&B is in a neat old house, but I haven't stayed there in 20 years, and they want kids to be at least 10. For that matter, I haven't stayed at any of the hotels, either.

You could stay in Amarillo, too, but you add a lot to your drive. The hotels in Canyon should have openings UNLESS it is a WTAMU home football weekend. Reserve quickly, just in case.

You could spend the whole time piddling around PD Canyon, but other to do:

Definitely Panhandle Plains Historical Museum. One of the best regional museums in the United States. The kids will love the newly redecorated "Pioneer Town" it has lots of hands-on exhibits. Also has dinosaur bones, firearms, a 1920s oil derrick, art (Georgia O'Keefe, a former WTAMU instructor) antique wagons, cars, windmills, oil field equipment, etc. Also has the world's oldest surviving production Ford car (serial #28)

If it's going to be a hot day, plan the museum for the heat of the day, go to PD Canyon in the morning or evening. As RTA says, you can skim the museum in 90 minutes or spend all day.

Agree with RTA on Discovery Center, was less impressed with Quarter Horse, think Cadillac Ranch is a freaking waste of time.

There is a small National Wildlife Refuge SW of Canyon and south of Umbarger. It has a prairie dog town if you've never seen one.

Also agree precisely with her assessment of Big Texan. But my favorite local Mexican food in Amarillo is Tacos Garcia on Ross. Best hamburger in Amarillo is Blue Sky at I-40 and western, though Coyote Bluff on Grand is legendary and I have yet to try it.

In Canyon, the kids will love Feldman's Wrong Way Diner, has model trains running on tracks suspended from the ceiling. The best Asian place is Sayakormans on the SE corner of the square. Pepitos is good Mexican food (run by my neighbors) I like Hil's burger, especially for their onion rings. Rafter G Steakhouse at Umbarger is good, too. Also have typical fast food, McD, Wendy, Taco Bell, Chicken Express, etc. etc.


I notice your username is that of Colonel Goodnight's hand. I assume you know about Goodnight, but read up on him before the trip if you don't. If you are coming in on 287, Goodnight's final home has just been restored. Haven't been there yet, but plan to go.

If you are into history, read up on The Red River War, part of which took place in PD Canyon (downstream of the park)


I'll try to link some photos and earlier threads later. Post any other questions and I'll do my best to answer.

Also, let me know which way you're driving and/or from where you are coming, I might have some more ideas.
CanyonAg77
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AG
Panhandle Photos includes PD Canyon and Caprock Canyon

PD Canyon thread to end all PD Canyon thread

I linked a bunch of PD Canyon threads there.
Bose Ikard
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Thank you very much!
BrazosBendHorn
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quote:
Lodging: We have two new hotels in Canyon (5-10 years old) a Best Western and Holiday Inn Express. They will be the closest to the park (12 miles) and a few blocks from the museum RTA talked about. They are off the freeway, and in a quiet area of town (mine)


I've stayed at both of these hotels and will vouch for them. I like the Holiday Inn Express a little better. Much better than staying in a motel on I-40.

(And if the ice machine runs out of ice, you can always show up at CanyonAg's front door with ice bucket in hand, it's just a few blocks away.)
CanyonAg77
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AG
The Pak-a-Sak is even closer to the hotels.
BrazosBendHorn
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quote:
The Pak-a-Sak is even closer to the hotels


Canyon needs to have a Buc-cee's.
BrazosBendHorn
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But getting back to PD Canyon:

Is there still a certain geologic formation by the name of Devil's Tombstone? (I believe the technical name for the formation is a hoodoo). I seem to recall that it was located out in Sunday Canyon; I hiked out there once when I was a teenager. I noticed that it isn't listed on the current map for PD Canyon (from the TPWD website)


Map

[This message has been edited by BrazosBendHorn (edited 8/8/2012 12:31p).]
Bose Ikard
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We got one of the in-park cabins. Thanks for the info!
CanyonAg77
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AG
Boy, I stepped in it now. If you hate it, it will all be my fault!

But I think you'll love it.

http://www.tpwmagazine.com/archive/2007/aug/ed_1/
quote:
Best View
Palo Duro Canyon State Park

At 120 miles long and up to 800 feet deep, Palo Duro is the United States’ second largest canyon, carved by the Prairie Dog Town Fork of the Red River about a million years ago. Dizzying views right out the windows await guests in three rock cabins perched on the canyon rim. The structures have dual indoor fireplaces and outdoor eating areas with picnic tables and grills. To better enjoy those aforementioned jaw-dropping vistas, be sure to ask about the Sorenson Cabin, featuring a large wooden deck that allows the sunrise and sunset to fill the dining area. The other two cabins are named Lighthouse, for the famous Palo Duro rock formation, and Goodnight, for the original rancher of the canyon.

Constructed by several CCC companies in the 1930s and remodeled some years ago, the cabins sleep four each, with heat and air conditioning, indoor bathrooms with shower, refrigerator, microwave and coffee pot. Linens, pillows and towels provided. While you could easily spend an entire visit just soaking up the scenery visible from your cabin, the park also includes a museum and store, horseback rides at Old West Stables, and hot meals and camping supplies at the Palo Duro Trading Post. The well-known Texas musical drama is performed in the Pioneer Theater during summer (June 4 – August 18, 2007). Visitors can also enjoy almost 40 miles of hiking trails and nearly 15 miles of equestrian trails through this geologic wonderland. RV, tent, primitive and equestrian camping and limited service cabins in the canyon. (806-488-2227, www.tpwd.state.tx.us/spdest/findadest/parks/palo_duro)
CDUB98
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AG
quote:
Canyon needs to have a Buc-cee's.


Fat-N-Fetch'um or GTHO!!

BrazosBendHorn
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quote:
Fat-N-Fetch'um or GTHO!!


I would prefer to binge on the beef/bean burritos at Allsup's ...

When I was a teen I would turn on the 10:00 news (Pro News on KVII) just to see which T-n-T got robbed that night ...
TheSheik
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AG
ditto on all that's come before
the canyon with a history lesson ahead of time to give you some perspective

and yes, the museum is a fantastic facility

one of the things we did recently was Alabates flint quarry up on the Canadian river - at Lake Meredith, a national park - there is a pretty good hike up the hill from the river bottom to the quarries on top, - the source of arrowheads and flint spear points found all across the great plains dating back to Clovis times - and the view back down the Canadian River valley is awesome

we were on a cowboy and indian trip that week, so we also did Adobe Walls, Buffalo Wallow, Mobeetie and over in Okla to Black Kettle Grasslands and the battle of the Washi ta

[This message has been edited by TheSheik (edited 8/23/2012 11:58p).]
Wgator
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AG
[This message has been edited by Wgator (edited 9/15/2012 7:36p).]

.]

[This message has been edited by Wgator (edited 9/17/2012 7:12p).]
CanyonAg77
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AG
quote:
one of the things we did recently was Alabates flint quarry up on the Canadian river

We did a tour up there on National Archeology Day (or something like that) got to see some normally-closed areas.

The temptation to pick up some of that beautiful flint was strong.

I do have a piece of Alibates that I found on a farm south of Canyon. Got off the tractor to stretch, and there it was.
Bose Ikard
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CanyonAg:

Thanks for the great advice! We LOVED Sorenson cabin. The view from the deck is incredible, and the cabin itself was surprisingly comfortable.

We did not have very long, as our trip had to be slightly rescheduled around some work duties. We left Lubbock after lunch last Friday (where my work event took place) and drove to the Canyon, where we checked into Sorenson. Late that afternoon, we (my wife and two very young children) hiked down the CCC trial to the Pavilion and back. We had dinner at out cabin, a good nights rest, a lazy morning/breakfast, and then drove over to do the Lighthouse hike. We saw a tarantula and a horny toad, which the kids (and their dad, but no so much their mom!) loved. The canyon was beautiful and the hike was great. Then, we loaded up the car and drove home. I wish we could have had longer, but staying in the cabin was definitely the way to go.

Thanks so much for your help.
Rocky Top Aggie
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AG
Glad to hear you enjoyed the Canyon!
CanyonAg77
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AG
Glad you had fun! It's always a risk when you recommend something, knowing how tastes vary. I'm happy it worked for you.

Those cabins on the rim are still pretty much of a secret treasure of PD Canyon. They were built by the CCC during the depression, and sometime later fell out of use. It wasn't until about the 1990s that someone got smart and put them back up for public use.

They still aren't very well known. I suspect that those of us who have enjoyed them are loathe to have competition for them.

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