So we are placing a contract on a home in Pebble Creek and on the inspection report it mentions that the plumbing is at 110 PSI and we should have a pressure valve placed.

From Google U I found that 110 is not THAT high and usually is only a danger to PVC pipe. How worried should I be about any damage already to the plumbing/fixtures? Should we get a full inspection of the plumbing? House was built 2001 if that matters.

I know CS has high water pressure, my garden hose ruptured shortly after moving! This is just well out of my area of expertise.

Yes,

We did this at the apartment complex in Bryan. It reduces the number of buster supply lines.

In addition,
A pressure reducing valve is relatively inexpensive.

Where did they measure the pressure?

I had a similar issue at my house. They measured the pressure at an external hose bib, but there was already an existing pressure reducer for the water inlet to the house.

Might be worth double checking before paying for something that may already be installed.

quote:

---

Where did they measure the pressure?

I had a similar issue at my house. They measured the pressure at an external hose bib, but there was already an existing pressure reducer for the water inlet to the house.

Might be worth double checking before paying for something that may already be installed.

---

Texags is so smart. Here is the inspection quote:

FINDING: THE STATIC WATER PRESSURE WAS TAKEN AT AN EXTERNAL FAUCET AT THE REAR SIDE OF THE HOUSE WAS 110 PSI. THE PRESSURE SHOULD BE BETWEEN 40-80 PSI.
RECOMMENDATION: PRESSURE THAT IS ABOVE 80 PSI (110 PSI) SHOULD HAVE A PRESSURE REDUCING VALVE INSTALLED BY A LICENSED PLUMBER AND RECOMMEND A COMPLETE EVALUATION OF THE PLUMBING SYSTEM FOR THIS HOUSE.

So it sounds like you may be in the same boat. I'd get the pressure measured on an internal fixture.

While not ideal, if you get a pressure surge and it ruptures a hose bib outside the house that's no big deal compared to the same happening inside the house.

We have high water pressure at our house in the Oaks in Bryan. Somewhere around 110 PSI at the outside faucets.

We've only had two issues with it.

1. The original sprinkler system did not have a pressure reducing valve and several joints blew out underground. When I put in a new one, I went with better quality materials and put in a pressure reducing valve.

2. Toilets... The high pressure is murder on toilet fill valves and I was replacing them every few months. I thought about reducing the overall water pressure to the house, but didn't want to lose that great water pressure in the shower. So instead, I installed individual water pressure regulators at each toilet. I've been on the same toilet fill valves for about three years now with this method.

Almost all exterior hose faucets are plumbed through the house so if you did have a pressure reducing valve it would affect the pressure of an exterior hose faucet. Testing the pressure at a hose faucet is usually identical to testing the pressure almost anywhere else in a house.

Water pressure victim in Pebble Creek here.

Bottom line is the water pressure is lower in the summer due to heavy water usage. Fall through spring the water pressure in the tower water tank builds.

Water pressure regulators are cheap, much less than the deductible, IF you can get your insurance to cover the damage.

Highly recommended expenditure, especially since you can leverage the sellers.

110psi is not much of a threat to anything except maybe the rubber gaskets inside your toilets and even then it just causes them to wear faster; it does not usually cause a rupture or emergency. Almost all PVC piping is rated for 200psi and above.

We were told to install a pressure regulator after having our washer blow out its gaskets (it also happened to several people on my street). I called a plumber to come out and do that and he found the regulator already installed so he just adjusted the pressure for us and we're good. Mine is set on about 80 since I also like descent pressure in the shower but replacing the washing machine gasket, not to mention the water damage, wasn't fun. We had also had a ton of trouble with the toilets, too, but didn't connect it to the pressure until we turned it down and it stopped being a problem.

We had many problems with high water pressure (100+ psig). Failure of our whole house water filter was blamed on the high pressure and it also voided the warranty, and we had numerous other failures of dishwasher and other Miele equipment all blamed on high water pressure and all voided warranty. Amazing how so many people seemed to know it was a problem but not one stood up to point it out to us when we were building. Simple pressure reducer ended the issues after we were finally told by plumber that was trying to service the water filter.

I'd also get a PRV put on the irrigation system, while they're putting one at the meter for the house. Even 65-70 psi is typically too much. Almost every irrigation system I see here has too much pressure and is blowing water in the wind (misting).

Back to the OP basically you should not be worried about the 110psi. Of course you *could* install a PR on anything and everything for all kinds of reasons but it's likely not going to prevent an emergency. PVC pipes don't just rupture from 110psi.

Also if the house was really built in 2001 it probably does have a pressure regulator already installed. I would verify the pressure myself before adding any device on the advice of a home inspector.

Awesome information thanks so much!

We actually withdrew our contract on that house anyway and put one on a 2005 house in Pebble Creek on Saturday.

I'm sure I'll have questions after the inspections.