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Looking for boat dock design advice.

971 Views | 8 Replies | Last: 1 mo ago by Gunny456
dudeabides
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AG
I'm planning to build a boat dock on Richland Chambers (RCL). It seems like the ideal way to waste money… more so than just buying a boat. At a minimum, I am thinking about a dock with one slip for a bay boat (for fishing), a second slip for a pontoon or wake boat (for entertaining), and an additional slips that would accommodate jet skis.

I would also like an small area on the dock to relax with guests (and/or fish) and a fish cleaning station. I have already run electricity and fresh water out to shoreline where this mystical beast will be located. I also have a tentative layout design for the dock, but it still needs some fine tuning.

While a floating-docks are allowed on RCL, most folks around here go with fixed-height docks with motorized boat lifts. That's the direction I plan to go too.

To complicate matters, I haven't purchased the boats yet. I am 'planing' to make those purchases after the dock is built. I have narrowed the choices down a little. So, I think the desired slip dimensions (discussed below) aren't too far off. However, there is the concern that I will ultimately buy something that is not currently on my short list. So, the slip sizes need to account for such.

The design issues that I would like input are as follows:

1. Boat slip width: Seems like 10' is the standard width around here, but I would like some opinions about that. A lot of the bay boats on our wish list have 7.5' beams; however, there are some that are also 8.5'/9'. I think all of the potential pontoon/wake boat choices on our list have 8.5' beams (I assume this is a standard 'max' width as to avoid the need for oversize permits when towing).

2. Boat slip length: The biggest pontoon/wake boat I have on my wish list is around 28 feet long (this measurement would include a swim platform on the transom). So, for its slip, I'm thinking 30' is a good length. For the fishing boat, I might go as long as 26'. So, I'm thinking 28' would be good for it. I believe the extra length in both slips would allow for better protection from the elements (i.e., the boat would be tucked further underneath the roof), make boat maintenance easier, and allow for a longer boat should I feel the need to scatter more $$$ into the wind.

3. Decking material: Seems like composite decking is very popular choice around here. I know a few swear by aluminum planks, but I leaning towards composite.

4. Any special design considerations that you would recommend?

5. Any advice or cautionary tales (other than "don't do it!")?
80sGeorge
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AG
Just from experience with in laws on Possum Kingdom through a couple of docks.

The hanging out area is best if it's covered. Keeps the sun off, lets you put up a ceiling fan, overhead lights for nighttime, keeps any sudden showers off you. If you want an uncovered area for sunbathing fine, but not the whole area.

As far as the sunbathing goes you make part of the roof flat with stairs and keep loungers up there. Where the flat part met the incline of the roof they put a small door so they could stuff things like cushions and flags and such in a little attic type space.

Speaking of flags they specd four welded vertical tubes on the railing around the upper deck area and had flag poles. Nothing fancy for the poles just like 3/4 conduit or something. Pull the poles out of the "attic" and slide them in the tubes and good to go.

Some folks had the welded tubes at an angle and put shorter poles in. Nice look also. I think our poles were 10-12 ft.

On the Seadoo lift we installed steps close to the dock- just like 2 or 3 so you could take the Seadoos off and then lower it about a foot into the water and then really little kids and dogs had a place they could swim. Like a kiddie pool and the steps helped ingress/egress. Didn't have anything to hold the Seadoos up in that space. Just laid them over. Some folks put rails or even large PVC pipes for Seadoos. We wanted the kiddie pool with a smooth deck.

Had a small ledge on the upper sun deck that was maybe 3 ft wide and stuck out about 3 ft. The railing to that ledge was gated. Kids liked to run and jump off the roof there. That's all it was for. Like a mini diving board.

We had composite. No issues ever. Widely loved.
RethinkTheWeekend
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AG
Gunny might know a designer/architect or for sure would know the widths/lengths you should consider.
80sGeorge
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AG
Here's the mini diving board in action. Also the Seadoo lift that's been lowered about a foot into the water can be seen at 8 o'clock position

BMach
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AG
Might want to make that pontoon slip a little longer, or the motor may be hanging out past the roofline.
Deerdude
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Walk around capability is big fo me for every toy. Makes it much easier to install and remove covers.covers help keep the critters out , although covers are what attract them. I've had feral cats climb in for shelter. Friend have had raccoons and squirrels get in and trash upholstery.
Make sure jet ski depth is desiste. I was informed that a jet ski could suck a fist size rock off the bottom at 3'. Rocks and gravel are really bad for impellers.
Plenty of padding around edges to prevent damage to toys. Keep in mind that wakes might rock a toy as much as a hoot vertically. I like roller guides along edge of slips to help guide the boat in. I gave kids and in-laws operating boats. Those guides also prevent pinch points for fingers. I have a friend that lost a finger docking a boat by pinching it between rub rail and dock.
texags08
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AG
Hard to beat concrete and steel when there are so many idiots driving on the water.




AKA the Command Center guy...
riffraff
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AG
More time is spent at the dock then in the house or on the boat. It's the central hub for our lake days from coffee to fishing to floating on noodles and boating. We bit the bullet and had a floating dock designed/built. Absolutely no regrets.

Ours (now sitting on the ground in what was Medina Lake) was designed by Flotation Systems and constructed by a contractor out of Austin. Flotation Systems took care of everything…designed for our needs, provided cad drawings and engaged the final contractor. This will last a few lifetimes and moving the dock is simple with the flotation, big tires and winch system. You can add slips, decks, rope swings, ladders…sky is the limit.

Bit of advice…install an electrical kill switch somewhere close to your water line so you disconnect from power/shut off without needing to do this from your house. Absolute must…get an inexpensive monitor to float at the dock and alert you to electrical leakage in the water. This is much more common than you'd expect!

Gunny456
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AG
First….Congrats on getting your place and planning for all this. Lots of fun and great memories coming in the future.
I will not recommend a specific manufacturer or company for building your dock because I have been bitten in the butt for doing that in the past. Just ask for references and go look at some of their installations.
You are pretty spot on on the widths. Stay at a minimum of 10'. Remember you have to allow at least a foot or so on each side for clearance for your cables and cradle. So wider is better.
Length….make both slips the same length. It will be easier in construction. Your lengths seem adequate but always easier to go bigger than add on or change later.
Floating docks present challenges for lifts…. as you almost have to use the air type Poly Lifts that raise the boats out of the water as trying to build a floating dock that can also hold all the weight of your two boats and jet skis becomes a real engineering challenge.
That's why most floating boat houses use the air tank type of lifts. They are high maintenance and a PIA imho.
And if you are in an area with lots of waves your boats are susceptible to lots of movement with them b
If the lake level stays fairly constant you are much better off building a pier supported boat house. Spend the money and do galvanized steel post and frame as much as possible…and good composit decking.
Plan on simplicity in construction to facilitate cleaning in the future.
Of course put all electrical in water tight conduit etc.

Have your boat cradles made to match your trailer bunks in dimensions.
Whatever you do don't use straps to lift your boats.

That's all I got.

ETA…. plan for good quality bumpers around all edges and corners. Plan for plenty of tie up cleats along the outside for friends to tie up boats!
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