Probably 5 or 6 yr old Echo 2 stroke has been sitting for 3-4 years and reportedly won't start. Didn't get used much since new either. Gas tank currently empty.

Get some good premix gas. Clean the plug. Anything else??

Is it hard to pull and clean the carb if needed?

Just seeing if y'all have any recommendations. Thanks

Starter fluid spray into the air intake usually works. If not, carb may need disassembling and a new carb kit installed.

I've had a few not start on full choke or run, but there's a happy spot somewhere in between that gets it going.

Cen-Tex said:

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Starter fluid spray into the air intake usually works. If not, carb may need disassembling and a new carb kit installed.

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Carb cleaner, cleaned plug, changed gas, took off carb to clean it. Put it all back together and started up on 2nd pull!

I just got a new carb for mine on Amazon $17. Mine is 13 years old.

All good suggestions. Thanks so much.

80sGeorge said:

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All good suggestions. Thanks so much.

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run over with tractor.. get new one for $80.. starts first pull

The cheap carbs on Amazon are aftermarket, not Echo. They may be good, but I would go with an Echo carb parts repair kit first. They, along with a good carb cleaning in Berrymans B12, should work just fine. WEAR GLOVES. Disassembly is easy. Just pay attention to the various parts and where they go.

Let the carb soak in B12 overnight, then blow off, reassemble, put the priming bulb and new fuel tubes on. Soak the tank in B12, pour out, put in fresh gas, and the blower should start right up.

Cleaned my weed eaters carb with Berrymans B12 without gloves. I think I burned the top layer of skin off most of my fingers.

Only had time to run by a Lowe's so got Gumout and a can of TrueFuel.

Took off the primer bulb and then the plastic top of the carb with the small needle.

Gumout everywhere. Some down the fuel tube and air tube in fuel tank. Some in tank. Rinsed it out with some of the fuel. Need to double check the tubes are clear…

Noticed on reassembly a tiny stretched out O ring on the black plastic throttle where it meets the metal carb. Put it together anyway. Noticed the primer bulb also had a bit missing on one edge. Put it together anyway.

Long story long, it's a no go and probably time for an Amazon carb and spark plug.

What's the model number of the blower? I have an Amazon carburetor that I never returned. It was for a 580 BP blower

PB 251

If it's compatible with your model and close to BCS you are more than welcome to have it

If you have been running ethanol in it, you will probably need to replace the carburetor or at lease clean the jets. Stop using ethanol in small engines.

Datman said:

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If you have been running ethanol in it, you will probably need to replace the carburetor or at lease clean the jets. Stop using ethanol in small engines.

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And don't run Truefuel, either.

91AggieLawyer said:

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Datman said:

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If you have been running ethanol in it, you will probably need to replace the carburetor or at lease clean the jets. Stop using ethanol in small engines.

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And don't run Truefuel, either.

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I've been watching quite a few of her videos. Not "gimmicky". Not "Hey look at me! I'm a female who knows small engines. Just good, practical info.

I was a "TruFuel Believer", for quite a while. With that said, I've got a Stihl FS250 Brushcutter, and a Stihl BG56 blower. Both were doing "ok", but I recently tried some non-ethanol pump gas mixed with VP synthetic 2-stroke oil (at Walmart and TSC), since I had been using the brushcutter A LOT, clearing around some ponds (and was tired of going through so much TruFuel). I IMMEDIATELY noticed I was getting way more RPM's, and better throttle response.

Only LATER did I watch her TruFuel videos, and saw that she was pointing out the same thing.

She seems to really like the Echo Red Armor oil….

Well hells bells. Are any of the canned fuels any good? Anyone know?

HarvestKing from Atwood's, VP, and PowerCare from Home Depot are from a different distributor. That's what we used due to availability, even more so after watching that video a few months ago.

Most Murphys/Walmarts have ethanol free now at the pump, so I don't buy much canned stuff anymore.

So Amazon delivered the new carb kit and I got the 12 yr old girl to put the phone down long enough to do the switch out with me.

Anyway the darn thing actually started. Slightly amazed to be honest. It does not run very well. Idles ok but bogs down with more throttle even after warming up. Played with the choke a little and a little bit of choke does help a bit but that's not really practical because you have to hold it there, it won't stay by itself.

Is there a way to fine tune or adjust the mixture on these little carbs? Anyone got any other suggestions?

80sGeorge said:

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So Amazon delivered the new carb kit and I got the 12 yr old girl to put the phone down long enough to do the switch out with me.

Anyway the darn thing actually started. Slightly amazed to be honest. It does not run very well. Idles ok but bogs down with more throttle even after warming up. Played with the choke a little and a little bit of choke does help a bit but that's not really practical because you have to hold it there, it won't stay by itself.

Is there a way to fine tune or adjust the mixture on these little carbs? Anyone got any other suggestions?

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Before chasing a bunch of carb adjustments, you might want to take the muffler off, just to make SURE the spark arrestor screen in there isn't plugged up. I have a Stihl blower that got to where it would start and idle ok, but would NOT accelerate. Thought maybe it was a carb issue, but read some stuff that suggested plugged up spark arrestor. Sure enough, that's what it was.

Let the spark arrestor screen soak for a minute or two in B12, then burned it off with a propane torch. Problem solved.

Also, try running it for a minute or two without the air filter (to rule that out). If it's not those two, then it's likely either carb adjustment or bad fuel.

Also, is your primer bulb ok?? No cracks/leaks?

The carb kit comes with new bulb, tubes, filter, spark plug, gaskets, etc. I'll ck the exhaust side/spark arrest.

I've gone to just buying complete chinesium carbs off ebay/amazon, they're like $20 and come with an adjustment tool. If your factory adjustment screws are round (non adjustable) or pac-man shaped you'll have to take a dremel and cut slots in them so you can turn and adjust. Should be a tiiiiny H and L cast next to each of them. Google instructions for how to tune it, i always forget. Once it's warm don't touch the choke. I think i usually tighten the L screw until it stutters them back off a half turn, then full throttle and loosen the H screw until it races faster and faster then starts to bog down, and tighten back a half turn. I believe the bogging down when you first touch the throttle is solved by bumping up your idle a hair

Sell it and buy a 56v EGO electric cordless blower.

After 9 years mine is still ready for use instantly with no cord tugging and cussing, and the power will nearly push you down the street on a skateboard.

Just wanted to give a recap of another successful OB and interaction. Shout out to 12Power and others for the cheap Amazon carb kit suggestion.

Kudos to fburgtx for the suggestion to check the spark arrest. I was getting idling but I would die at faster speeds. That little screen was gunked up solid. It is now gone.

Thanks also to whichever YouTube video showed me where the tiny carb adjustment screw is.

Runs like new and there's a gas station nearby that says they have ethanol free so as soon as the TrueFuel is gone I can switch.

Great!! Yeah, I'm in a "dry" part of the state, so I like to clean the spark arrestor screen by soaking in B12 or Gunout, and burning it off, but for folks in "wetter" areas, usually easiest just to remove the spark arrestor screen.

Here's another video about the no-ethanol gas, just in case you hope to get it from a station with a "one-handle pump" (you might STILL end up with ethanol, if you're not careful)