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Getting into reloading

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clarythedrill
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I have decided to get into ammo reloading, and have been watching reloading vids for a couple of months before buying anything. I decided to go with the Lyman brand for most everything, and Hornady for the dies, and currently have everything I need to get going minus a few trimming guides.

I will start with 6.5 Grendel, which I have a set of dies for. I have a box of Hornady 120gr ELD-M and a box of Barnes 120gr TSX. I also have a jug of H335 and CCI small rifle primers. My brass is new Hornady.

My rifle is a Howa 1500 with a 20 inch barrel in an Oryx chassis. It currently shoots sub-moa, but just barely with Barnes TSX 115gr factory loads. It shot absolutely lights out with American Eagle 120gr factory ammo but that is discontinued. I have shot four different flavors of Hornady factory in 123gr and the groups were no better than 4-5 inches with these factory rounds. So, I am hoping to get close to the AE 120gr perfomance with these handloads.

If anyone has any Grendel data or reloading experiences that they would like to share, I would love to hear it. My next rifle to reload for is going to most likely be a Savage 110 Tactical in 6.5 Bleedmoor since I have a die for it too, and will stay in the 140-150gr range for it.
slammerag
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had best results with berger 120, 8208 xbr powder, lapua brass, .288 bushing and cci450 primers. Will see if I can find specifics when I look at my notes.
clarythedrill
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slammerag said:

had best results with berger 120, 8208 xbr powder, lapua brass, .288 bushing and cci450 primers. Will see if I can find specifics when I look at my notes.
I would have liked to use your listed powder or Accurate 2520, but I was lucky to find the H335, and since it was listed in both the Hornady and Barnes data, I thought it would be a decent enough choice to get going.

Could you please explain the .288 bushing? I have the Hornady bullet comparators, is that what you are talking about?
farmersfight
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not trying to hijack this one - is there a B/CS area shop that can help my dad get started with this? He has old equipment he used decades ago, but he thinks needs new power, primers, etc. I don't know much about this topic so leaning on the OB.
clarythedrill
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farmersfight said:

not trying to hijack this one - is there a B/CS area shop that can help my dad get started with this? He has old equipment he used decades ago, but he thinks needs new power, primers, etc. I don't know much about this topic so leaning on the OB.
Not hijacking at all, ask anything, as something may be brought out that benefits the entire group.
maddiedou
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You need to get into other calibers like the ines listed


slammerag
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clarythedrill said:

slammerag said:

had best results with berger 120, 8208 xbr powder, lapua brass, .288 bushing and cci450 primers. Will see if I can find specifics when I look at my notes.
I would have liked to use your listed powder or Accurate 2520, but I was lucky to find the H335, and since it was listed in both the Hornady and Barnes data, I thought it would be a decent enough choice to get going.

Could you please explain the .288 bushing? I have the Hornady bullet comparators, is that what you are talking about?


I use neck sizing die with bushing to have desired neck tension. Different brass has different neck thickness and bushings allow compensation for that.
clarythedrill
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slammerag said:

clarythedrill said:

slammerag said:

had best results with berger 120, 8208 xbr powder, lapua brass, .288 bushing and cci450 primers. Will see if I can find specifics when I look at my notes.
I would have liked to use your listed powder or Accurate 2520, but I was lucky to find the H335, and since it was listed in both the Hornady and Barnes data, I thought it would be a decent enough choice to get going.

Could you please explain the .288 bushing? I have the Hornady bullet comparators, is that what you are talking about?


I use neck sizing die with bushing to have desired neck tension. Different brass has different neck thickness and bushings allow compensation for that.
Ok, gotcha. Right now I have the standard Hornady 6.5 Grendel Custom die set, so the neck tension will be whatever that die sets it too. I have to ask, since the bullet is a .264, isnt the .288 making it a little loose? Please educate me on this as I need to know how this neck tension is working between these two numbers. Thanks.

EDIT: Is the neck sizer setting the INSIDE or OUTSIDE diameter? If outside, I can see how the neck wall thickness will be less and make the .264 fit tight in the neck.
schmellba99
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I reload for a bunch of calibers, pistol and rifle. 6.5G is one of them.

What, specifically are you asking for?

I can't remember my load data - that's why I write that down and I won't be back home until Friday to look it up unfortunately.

H335 is a good ball powder, meters extremely well and burns fairly well. But it generally isn't the most accurate powder listed in any caliber loads - it's great for things like .223 where you are often loading more plinking or bulk rounds and not necessarily aiming for MOA accuracy. That being said, it is absolutely capable of producing very good loads when you take the time to meter loads out to consistent charge weights.

My powder for 6.5G is H4198 or Varget (I think - goes back to the "I can't remember squat, so I write it down" thing). Hornady 123SST projectiles produced the best groupings out of my gun, new brass, Winchester SR primers.

A poster above mentioned neck sizing - I used to be in that camp, but haven't been for a long time for varous reasons. Full length resize is the only way I go with rifle brass now.

Since you have a bolt action, you could take advantage of small things like neck turning - not really something in my AR platform I worry about, but I do it with bolt action rifles. I use a Lee FCD to put a slight crimp on my rounds as the last station in my press. I like it better because I can easily control the crimp and it is one of the few Lee items that I think is a really solid piece of equipment.

As far as load development goes - I typically do a decent amount of research and find different places with data to kind of get an overall picture of min and max loads. I usually start about 7-8% below max and work my way up in charge weights (usually in .5 grain increments, depending on case capacity - might be smaller at times) using the OCW method until I get groups that I like without pressure signs, then work on little things after that to tighten them up (things like distance off the lands, .1 grain increments in powder charge weights, different brand primers, etc.). Honestly, can't say I've ever found a really good load on the bottom end of the load data. Rarely at the extreme top end either, it's usually somewhere 3-5% below listed max in my experience.

Take a sharpie and write your load data on the brass as you finish up a batch. Much easier to not get something screwed up or mixed up when you have the actual load data on the brass versus on a piece of paper that you hope you put the correct order in your ammo box. Something simple like:

H335
29.5 Grain
120 TSX (bullet weight isn't necessary if you are using the same pill for all loads)

Some folks like ladder testing, and it works, it just seems to me to have a lot more room for error or interpretation over the OCW or even the old school "shoot a group of 3 (or 5) of the same load at one target, then do another load at another target, etc.). If you do go with the all rounds at one target approach - have somebody go to the range with you to help spot you, but also to be the one that decides which load to give you without you seeing it so that you have a truly unbiased set of shot data.
schmellba99
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clarythedrill said:

slammerag said:

clarythedrill said:

slammerag said:

had best results with berger 120, 8208 xbr powder, lapua brass, .288 bushing and cci450 primers. Will see if I can find specifics when I look at my notes.
I would have liked to use your listed powder or Accurate 2520, but I was lucky to find the H335, and since it was listed in both the Hornady and Barnes data, I thought it would be a decent enough choice to get going.

Could you please explain the .288 bushing? I have the Hornady bullet comparators, is that what you are talking about?


I use neck sizing die with bushing to have desired neck tension. Different brass has different neck thickness and bushings allow compensation for that.
Ok, gotcha. Right now I have the standard Hornady 6.5 Grendel Custom die set, so the neck tension will be whatever that die sets it too. I have to ask, since the bullet is a .264, isnt the .288 making it a little loose? Please educate me on this as I need to know how this neck tension is working between these two numbers. Thanks.

EDIT: Is the neck sizer setting the INSIDE or OUTSIDE diameter? If outside, I can see how the neck wall thickness will be less and make the .264 fit tight in the neck.
Neck sizing sizes outside and shoulder without having an expander ball or bushing on the inside of the neck.
slammerag
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schmellba99 said:

I reload for a bunch of calibers, pistol and rifle. 6.5G is one of them.

What, specifically are you asking for?

I can't remember my load data - that's why I write that down and I won't be back home until Friday to look it up unfortunately.

H335 is a good ball powder, meters extremely well and burns fairly well. But it generally isn't the most accurate powder listed in any caliber loads - it's great for things like .223 where you are often loading more plinking or bulk rounds and not necessarily aiming for MOA accuracy. That being said, it is absolutely capable of producing very good loads when you take the time to meter loads out to consistent charge weights.

My powder for 6.5G is H4198 or Varget (I think - goes back to the "I can't remember squat, so I write it down" thing). Hornady 123SST projectiles produced the best groupings out of my gun, new brass, Winchester SR primers.

A poster above mentioned neck sizing - I used to be in that camp, but haven't been for a long time for varous reasons. Full length resize is the only way I go with rifle brass now.

Since you have a bolt action, you could take advantage of small things like neck turning - not really something in my AR platform I worry about, but I do it with bolt action rifles. I use a Lee FCD to put a slight crimp on my rounds as the last station in my press. I like it better because I can easily control the crimp and it is one of the few Lee items that I think is a really solid piece of equipment.

As far as load development goes - I typically do a decent amount of research and find different places with data to kind of get an overall picture of min and max loads. I usually start about 7-8% below max and work my way up in charge weights (usually in .5 grain increments, depending on case capacity - might be smaller at times) using the OCW method until I get groups that I like without pressure signs, then work on little things after that to tighten them up (things like distance off the lands, .1 grain increments in powder charge weights, different brand primers, etc.). Honestly, can't say I've ever found a really good load on the bottom end of the load data. Rarely at the extreme top end either, it's usually somewhere 3-5% below listed max in my experience.

Take a sharpie and write your load data on the brass as you finish up a batch. Much easier to not get something screwed up or mixed up when you have the actual load data on the brass versus on a piece of paper that you hope you put the correct order in your ammo box. Something simple like:

H335
29.5 Grain
120 TSX (bullet weight isn't necessary if you are using the same pill for all loads)

Some folks like ladder testing, and it works, it just seems to me to have a lot more room for error or interpretation over the OCW or even the old school "shoot a group of 3 (or 5) of the same load at one target, then do another load at another target, etc.). If you do go with the all rounds at one target approach - have somebody go to the range with you to help spot you, but also to be the one that decides which load to give you without you seeing it so that you have a truly unbiased set of shot data.


Lots of good info here. Curious why you got away from neck sizing? I do body size, just in a different step.

slammerag
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My load was 28.3 gr of 8208. Not a burner but accurate. I would also purchase a modified case and an oal gauge to find your lands. The attached le Wilson gauge and micro are helpful setting your die up for proper shoulder bump. Don't want to overwork your brass.
clarythedrill
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schmellba99 said:

I reload for a bunch of calibers, pistol and rifle. 6.5G is one of them.

What, specifically are you asking for?

I can't remember my load data - that's why I write that down and I won't be back home until Friday to look it up unfortunately.

H335 is a good ball powder, meters extremely well and burns fairly well. But it generally isn't the most accurate powder listed in any caliber loads - it's great for things like .223 where you are often loading more plinking or bulk rounds and not necessarily aiming for MOA accuracy. That being said, it is absolutely capable of producing very good loads when you take the time to meter loads out to consistent charge weights.

My powder for 6.5G is H4198 or Varget (I think - goes back to the "I can't remember squat, so I write it down" thing). Hornady 123SST projectiles produced the best groupings out of my gun, new brass, Winchester SR primers.

A poster above mentioned neck sizing - I used to be in that camp, but haven't been for a long time for varous reasons. Full length resize is the only way I go with rifle brass now.

Since you have a bolt action, you could take advantage of small things like neck turning - not really something in my AR platform I worry about, but I do it with bolt action rifles. I use a Lee FCD to put a slight crimp on my rounds as the last station in my press. I like it better because I can easily control the crimp and it is one of the few Lee items that I think is a really solid piece of equipment.

As far as load development goes - I typically do a decent amount of research and find different places with data to kind of get an overall picture of min and max loads. I usually start about 7-8% below max and work my way up in charge weights (usually in .5 grain increments, depending on case capacity - might be smaller at times) using the OCW method until I get groups that I like without pressure signs, then work on little things after that to tighten them up (things like distance off the lands, .1 grain increments in powder charge weights, different brand primers, etc.). Honestly, can't say I've ever found a really good load on the bottom end of the load data. Rarely at the extreme top end either, it's usually somewhere 3-5% below listed max in my experience.

Take a sharpie and write your load data on the brass as you finish up a batch. Much easier to not get something screwed up or mixed up when you have the actual load data on the brass versus on a piece of paper that you hope you put the correct order in your ammo box. Something simple like:

H335
29.5 Grain
120 TSX (bullet weight isn't necessary if you are using the same pill for all loads)

Some folks like ladder testing, and it works, it just seems to me to have a lot more room for error or interpretation over the OCW or even the old school "shoot a group of 3 (or 5) of the same load at one target, then do another load at another target, etc.). If you do go with the all rounds at one target approach - have somebody go to the range with you to help spot you, but also to be the one that decides which load to give you without you seeing it so that you have a truly unbiased set of shot data.
Thank you for all that information, which is what I am looking for....just good overall advice.

My intent is to load five sets of five rounds, each set being a different charge weight. I will do this for the Barnes bullet and the Hornady bullet. I will look at the reload data published by each bullet brand and have my max charge just under their listed max charge, and go backward in increments of .3 or .4 of a grain.

So at the range, I will have a total of 50 rounds, 25 of each bullet brand. I will start off with the lowest charge and shoot all five of that charge and check the group. Then move to the next highest charge and shoot all five at a new target, and so on and so on. I think this will work out for my first trip and I can change it up if a reason arises to do so. Thoughts?
DBill
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Got into reloading not too long ago and went Lyman also. Which press or kit did you get? I have the All American 8 Turret and it's been absolutely great.

One add on I did was the in line fabrication ultramount to get the press up to more appropriate height.

https://inlinefabrication.com/

I have dies from Lee, Hornady and RCBS, they are each slightly different than the other, read the manual on setting each up, but all do their jobs great.

Don't forget shell holders for the Hornady dies, they don't come with the die set.

For Grendel and creedmor I reload and am currently experimenting with the 100 grain TTSX in both 6.5's. Haven't shot yet to group test them but will get the Grendel out shortly. Grendel I have 28.5 through 30.4 grains of H335 (working in increments of 0.5 grains) and creed got 42.5 through 43.9 grains of H4350, same 0.5 increments. I've done some work with 95 grain vmax and 123 SST's in the Grendel but don't have my notes readily available.

Get reloading manuals as they are a great tool. I have the Lyman, Lee, Hornady and Nosler books which are great to keep on the bench. Most everything is online these days and I use Barnes online info for their bullets.

Reloading is a bunch of fun and I find myself shooting more, which is great overall for accuracy and enjoyment. Don't think you will save a bunch of money with it because I probably spend more now than I used to, but it's very fun to work on.
clarythedrill
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slammerag said:

My load was 28.3 gr of 8208. Not a burner but accurate. I would also purchase a modified case and an oal gauge to find your lands. The attached le Wilson gauge and micro are helpful setting your die up for proper shoulder bump. Don't want to overwork your brass.

I have all of those on hand or on order, just waiting on them to arrive. I will be on vacation till the middle of the month and all my stuff will arrive by the time I get back and that is when I will start working things up.
swampstander
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H335 Never got it done for me in the Grendel. Sad because I have about 10lbs of it. It does work well for me in .223, 7mm TCU and 30-30 though. I was using 2520 for the Grendel until the drought when I ran out of it then switched to TAC and now LVR. I do use an undersized expander button for increased neck tension in otherwise standard Hornady new dimension dies.
clarythedrill
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DBill said:

Got into reloading not too long ago and went Lyman also. Which press or kit did you get? I have the All American 8 Turret and it's been absolutely great.

One add on I did was the in line fabrication ultramount to get the press up to more appropriate height.

https://inlinefabrication.com/

I have dies from Lee, Hornady and RCBS, they are each slightly different than the other, read the manual on setting each up, but all do their jobs great.

Don't forget shell holders for the Hornady dies, they don't come with the die set.

For Grendel and creedmor I reload and am currently experimenting with the 100 grain TTSX in both 6.5's. Haven't shot yet to group test them but will get the Grendel out shortly. Grendel I have 28.5 through 30.4 grains of H335 (working in increments of 0.5 grains) and creed got 42.5 through 43.9 grains of H4350, same 0.5 increments. I've done some work with 95 grain vmax and 123 SST's in the Grendel but don't have my notes readily available.

Get reloading manuals as they are a great tool. I have the Lyman, Lee, Hornady and Nosler books which are great to keep on the bench. Most everything is online these days and I use Barnes online info for their bullets.

Reloading is a bunch of fun and I find myself shooting more, which is great overall for accuracy and enjoyment. Don't think you will save a bunch of money with it because I probably spend more now than I used to, but it's very fun to work on.
I got the Lyman kit with the AA8 turret press also. The kit came with the tumbler, electric metering/weighing system, trimmer system and a bunch of other stuff. I already ordered and received the shell holders and everything else I need that wasnt in the kit.

I could actually start loading if I had the .264 pilot for the case trimmer. The trimmer came with I think 9 pilots, but the 26 pilot was not a part of the kit and I have had trouble finding them in stock anywhere. I finally found some and ordered two of them.

All of my dies will be Hornady, since I have a Microadjuster and it is supposed to only fit Hornady dies. I will eventually get around to .223, .308, 7.62x39, 300 Winmag and 7mm Remmag.
clarythedrill
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swampstander said:

H335 Never got it done for me in the Grendel. Sad because I have about 10lbs of it. It does work well for me in .223, 7mm TCU and 30-30 though. I was using 2520 for the Grendel until the drought when I ran out of it then switched to TAC and now LVR. I do use an undersized expander button for increased neck tension in otherwise standard Hornady new dimension dies.
I wanted to start this out with either IMR 8082 XBR or Accurate 2520, but I was not successful in finding it anywhere. I was at Academy and found the H335 and since it was listed as a powder in Hornady and Barnes reloading data, I went with it. It was the best I could find as of now. Until I get better at this and become more familiar with powders and what they work best in, I will keep it to what is listed on the reload data for the bullets on the manufacturers sites.
DBill
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clarythedrill said:

DBill said:

Got into reloading not too long ago and went Lyman also. Which press or kit did you get? I have the All American 8 Turret and it's been absolutely great.

One add on I did was the in line fabrication ultramount to get the press up to more appropriate height.

https://inlinefabrication.com/

I have dies from Lee, Hornady and RCBS, they are each slightly different than the other, read the manual on setting each up, but all do their jobs great.

Don't forget shell holders for the Hornady dies, they don't come with the die set.

For Grendel and creedmor I reload and am currently experimenting with the 100 grain TTSX in both 6.5's. Haven't shot yet to group test them but will get the Grendel out shortly. Grendel I have 28.5 through 30.4 grains of H335 (working in increments of 0.5 grains) and creed got 42.5 through 43.9 grains of H4350, same 0.5 increments. I've done some work with 95 grain vmax and 123 SST's in the Grendel but don't have my notes readily available.

Get reloading manuals as they are a great tool. I have the Lyman, Lee, Hornady and Nosler books which are great to keep on the bench. Most everything is online these days and I use Barnes online info for their bullets.

Reloading is a bunch of fun and I find myself shooting more, which is great overall for accuracy and enjoyment. Don't think you will save a bunch of money with it because I probably spend more now than I used to, but it's very fun to work on.
I got the Lyman kit with the AA8 turret press also. The kit came with the tumbler, electric metering/weighing system, trimmer system and a bunch of other stuff. I already ordered and received the shell holders and everything else I need that wasnt in the kit.

I could actually start loading if I had the .264 pilot for the case trimmer. The trimmer came with I think 9 pilots, but the 26 pilot was not a part of the kit and I have had trouble finding them in stock anywhere. I finally found some and ordered two of them.

All of my dies will be Hornady, since I have a Microadjuster and it is supposed to only fit Hornady dies. I will eventually get around to .223, .308, 7.62x39, 300 Winmag and 7mm Remmag.


I did the kit also, highly recommend it and all of the accessories have been great for me. Hope you have a ton of fun with it! That ultra mount has been great also to get the press up off the bench.

If you haven't already, checkout Brownells, Natchez and Midway for online ordering of powders (there are a bunch others also). Sometimes you pay more than local, but they have it when others are out sometimes. Also, the hazmat fee to ship is annoying but is what it is. I've ordered from all 3 and have had good experiences. Every now and then they will run a promo waiving the hazmat fee.
Charismatic Megafauna
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Let me save you a lot of time and powder. Read up on optimal charge weight (ocw) theory. Load ladders and look for nodes, then play with seating depth.
GSS
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schmellba99 said:

clarythedrill said:

slammerag said:

clarythedrill said:

slammerag said:

had best results with berger 120, 8208 xbr powder, lapua brass, .288 bushing and cci450 primers. Will see if I can find specifics when I look at my notes.
I would have liked to use your listed powder or Accurate 2520, but I was lucky to find the H335, and since it was listed in both the Hornady and Barnes data, I thought it would be a decent enough choice to get going.

Could you please explain the .288 bushing? I have the Hornady bullet comparators, is that what you are talking about?


I use neck sizing die with bushing to have desired neck tension. Different brass has different neck thickness and bushings allow compensation for that.
Ok, gotcha. Right now I have the standard Hornady 6.5 Grendel Custom die set, so the neck tension will be whatever that die sets it too. I have to ask, since the bullet is a .264, isnt the .288 making it a little loose? Please educate me on this as I need to know how this neck tension is working between these two numbers. Thanks.

EDIT: Is the neck sizer setting the INSIDE or OUTSIDE diameter? If outside, I can see how the neck wall thickness will be less and make the .264 fit tight in the neck.
Neck sizing sizes outside and shoulder without having an expander ball or bushing on the inside of the neck.
Standard (non-bushing) neck sizer dies do use an expander ball. And does not set the shoulder back.
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TikkaShooter
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Good thread timing. Thinking of turning over all of my reloading equipment.

Presses
Trimmer
Primer
Scale
Dies
Primers
Powder

The whole shebang
Charismatic Megafauna
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I like the lee collett neck sizers.
schmellba99
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Neck sizing only sounds great in theory, but it has inherent issues that can lead to variations in accuracy.

No chamber is perfectly round, every one has some level of variation in concentricity. Some are more than others, but even match chambers have ovaling.

When you fire a round, the brass fire forms to the chamber. And if you could be guaranteed every single time that you insert the brass into the chamber at the same orientation (i.e. 12 o'clock on the brass after firing #1 is located at 12 o'clock in the chamber) every single time, neck sizing would be less of an issue.

But you cant do that no matter how hard you try, so you end up with some areas of the brass against chamber walls and some areas with gaps each time. And each time those variations change how the brass expands and how the pressures develop, etc in the chamber. Just a few thou or ten thou doesnt sound like much, but it adds up.

Which means more variance, and it can be surprisingly noticeable. Plus, you can only neck size a handful of times before you have to FL resize anyway because the brass will be stretched to a point it is hard to chamber, or wont chamber or extract after firing.

You get far more consistent results - both with velocity and with accuracy - with FL sizing and a repeatable shoulder bump over neck size only. Brass sits in chamber more consistent and expands more uniform and consistent when fired.

Plus, with having to FL resize every 3-4 firings, you are essentially losing any value that might be gained from neck sizing as it is.

The accuracy aspect probably doesnt make much difference in most applications or guns, but feed reliability and extract reliability does. I know from experience a hard to extract case is beyond maddening when you need to take a follow up shot and cant.

Concentricity is also why neck turning helps tremendously with accuracy IMO. Amazing at the amount of variance in case neck thickness on even high quality brass. Uniforming that thickness some ensures your projo is concentric with the bore and not at an ever so slight cant because one side of the neck is several thou thicker than the other. You also get more uniform neck tension, which means the projo leaves the brass straighter.

Reloading for accuracy or tuning a round to a gun is all about consistency and repeatability in making the round. The more consistent and repeatable the ammo, the more consistent and repeatable the results.

Just my opinion anyway, but it is shared by (and influenced by) a lot of high end shooters. I am not a high end shooter, but i like to know my equipment is far more capable than i am.
GSS
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farmersfight said:

not trying to hijack this one - is there a B/CS area shop that can help my dad get started with this? He has old equipment he used decades ago, but he thinks needs new power, primers, etc. I don't know much about this topic so leaning on the OB.
Burdett's is about the only place, and it would likely have to be Barry...who is always busy.

I live local to B-CS (near Snook), and reloading has been my hobby for almost 50 years. I would be happy to discuss and review what your Dad has, and I probably have an extra of anything he might need.
A quick review (from memory, so I may have missed some), I reload for 16 rifle, and 9 handgun cartridges. And occasionally shotshell.
I quit "saving $$" years ago, too much fun, inventory, and equipment!

Contact info in my profile.
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schmellba99
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Also, get a modified case and gauge, headspace gauge set and bullet comparator set.

Way better for measuring brass and loaded rounds than OAL.
TikkaShooter
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This is a very good post and I wish could be stared and kept in a reloading thread.

Agree on all of this. Very well laid out.
clarythedrill
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schmellba99 said:

Also, get a modified case and gauge, headspace gauge set and bullet comparator set.

Way better for measuring brass and loaded rounds than OAL.
I have those things either on hand now, or ordered and waiting on delivery.
schmellba99
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GSS said:

schmellba99 said:

clarythedrill said:

slammerag said:

clarythedrill said:

slammerag said:

had best results with berger 120, 8208 xbr powder, lapua brass, .288 bushing and cci450 primers. Will see if I can find specifics when I look at my notes.
I would have liked to use your listed powder or Accurate 2520, but I was lucky to find the H335, and since it was listed in both the Hornady and Barnes data, I thought it would be a decent enough choice to get going.

Could you please explain the .288 bushing? I have the Hornady bullet comparators, is that what you are talking about?


I use neck sizing die with bushing to have desired neck tension. Different brass has different neck thickness and bushings allow compensation for that.
Ok, gotcha. Right now I have the standard Hornady 6.5 Grendel Custom die set, so the neck tension will be whatever that die sets it too. I have to ask, since the bullet is a .264, isnt the .288 making it a little loose? Please educate me on this as I need to know how this neck tension is working between these two numbers. Thanks.

EDIT: Is the neck sizer setting the INSIDE or OUTSIDE diameter? If outside, I can see how the neck wall thickness will be less and make the .264 fit tight in the neck.
Neck sizing sizes outside and shoulder without having an expander ball or bushing on the inside of the neck.
Standard (non-bushing) neck sizer dies do use an expander ball. And does not set the shoulder back.


I was thinking of the Lee collet neck sizer, it doesnt have an expander ball - it uses a mandrel instead and crimps the outside of the neck to the mandrel.

I will say that the Lee collet die has been known to reduce runout that most other dies tend to leave.

Apparently other types of neck sizer dies use an expander ball, didnt know that.
schmellba99
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Also, i have no use for turret presses.

Single stage or progressive.

Single stage for bolt guns, progressive for pretty much everything else.

A turret press is some weird halfass of both with none of the positives and all of the negatives of each.
slammerag
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schmellba99 said:

Neck sizing only sounds great in theory, but it has inherent issues that can lead to variations in accuracy.

No chamber is perfectly round, every one has some level of variation in concentricity. Some are more than others, but even match chambers have ovaling.

When you fire a round, the brass fire forms to the chamber. And if you could be guaranteed every single time that you insert the brass into the chamber at the same orientation (i.e. 12 o'clock on the brass after firing #1 is located at 12 o'clock in the chamber) every single time, neck sizing would be less of an issue.

But you cant do that no matter how hard you try, so you end up with some areas of the brass against chamber walls and some areas with gaps each time. And each time those variations change how the brass expands and how the pressures develop, etc in the chamber. Just a few thou or ten thou doesnt sound like much, but it adds up.

Which means more variance, and it can be surprisingly noticeable. Plus, you can only neck size a handful of times before you have to FL resize anyway because the brass will be stretched to a point it is hard to chamber, or wont chamber or extract after firing.

You get far more consistent results - both with velocity and with accuracy - with FL sizing and a repeatable shoulder bump over neck size only. Brass sits in chamber more consistent and expands more uniform and consistent when fired.

Plus, with having to FL resize every 3-4 firings, you are essentially losing any value that might be gained from neck sizing as it is.

The accuracy aspect probably doesnt make much difference in most applications or guns, but feed reliability and extract reliability does. I know from experience a hard to extract case is beyond maddening when you need to take a follow up shot and cant.

Concentricity is also why neck turning helps tremendously with accuracy IMO. Amazing at the amount of variance in case neck thickness on even high quality brass. Uniforming that thickness some ensures your projo is concentric with the bore and not at an ever so slight cant because one side of the neck is several thou thicker than the other. You also get more uniform neck tension, which means the projo leaves the brass straighter.

Reloading for accuracy or tuning a round to a gun is all about consistency and repeatability in making the round. The more consistent and repeatable the ammo, the more consistent and repeatable the results.

Just my opinion anyway, but it is shared by (and influenced by) a lot of high end shooters. I am not a high end shooter, but i like to know my equipment is far more capable than i am.



Quote:

Interesting. I do have a body die set to .002 shoulder bump I run every time. I also neck turn with 21st century turner and check concentricity with 21st century gauge.
TX_COWDOC
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Dillon RL550. Watch their videos. Get their calendar. Profit.
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schmellba99
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GSS said:

farmersfight said:

not trying to hijack this one - is there a B/CS area shop that can help my dad get started with this? He has old equipment he used decades ago, but he thinks needs new power, primers, etc. I don't know much about this topic so leaning on the OB.
Burdett's is about the only place, and it would likely have to be Barry...who is always busy.

I live local to B-CS (near Snook), and reloading has been my hobby for almost 50 years. I would be happy to discuss and review what your Dad has, and I probably have an extra of anything he might need.
A quick review (from memory, so I may have missed some), I reload for 16 rifle, and 9 handgun cartridges. And occasionally shotshell.
I quit "saving $$" years ago, too much fun, inventory, and equipment!

Contact info in my profile.
Kudos to you for offering your time. A lot of people won't do that anymore.
schmellba99
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clarythedrill said:

schmellba99 said:

I reload for a bunch of calibers, pistol and rifle. 6.5G is one of them.

What, specifically are you asking for?

I can't remember my load data - that's why I write that down and I won't be back home until Friday to look it up unfortunately.

H335 is a good ball powder, meters extremely well and burns fairly well. But it generally isn't the most accurate powder listed in any caliber loads - it's great for things like .223 where you are often loading more plinking or bulk rounds and not necessarily aiming for MOA accuracy. That being said, it is absolutely capable of producing very good loads when you take the time to meter loads out to consistent charge weights.

My powder for 6.5G is H4198 or Varget (I think - goes back to the "I can't remember squat, so I write it down" thing). Hornady 123SST projectiles produced the best groupings out of my gun, new brass, Winchester SR primers.

A poster above mentioned neck sizing - I used to be in that camp, but haven't been for a long time for varous reasons. Full length resize is the only way I go with rifle brass now.

Since you have a bolt action, you could take advantage of small things like neck turning - not really something in my AR platform I worry about, but I do it with bolt action rifles. I use a Lee FCD to put a slight crimp on my rounds as the last station in my press. I like it better because I can easily control the crimp and it is one of the few Lee items that I think is a really solid piece of equipment.

As far as load development goes - I typically do a decent amount of research and find different places with data to kind of get an overall picture of min and max loads. I usually start about 7-8% below max and work my way up in charge weights (usually in .5 grain increments, depending on case capacity - might be smaller at times) using the OCW method until I get groups that I like without pressure signs, then work on little things after that to tighten them up (things like distance off the lands, .1 grain increments in powder charge weights, different brand primers, etc.). Honestly, can't say I've ever found a really good load on the bottom end of the load data. Rarely at the extreme top end either, it's usually somewhere 3-5% below listed max in my experience.

Take a sharpie and write your load data on the brass as you finish up a batch. Much easier to not get something screwed up or mixed up when you have the actual load data on the brass versus on a piece of paper that you hope you put the correct order in your ammo box. Something simple like:

H335
29.5 Grain
120 TSX (bullet weight isn't necessary if you are using the same pill for all loads)

Some folks like ladder testing, and it works, it just seems to me to have a lot more room for error or interpretation over the OCW or even the old school "shoot a group of 3 (or 5) of the same load at one target, then do another load at another target, etc.). If you do go with the all rounds at one target approach - have somebody go to the range with you to help spot you, but also to be the one that decides which load to give you without you seeing it so that you have a truly unbiased set of shot data.
Thank you for all that information, which is what I am looking for....just good overall advice.

My intent is to load five sets of five rounds, each set being a different charge weight. I will do this for the Barnes bullet and the Hornady bullet. I will look at the reload data published by each bullet brand and have my max charge just under their listed max charge, and go backward in increments of .3 or .4 of a grain.

So at the range, I will have a total of 50 rounds, 25 of each bullet brand. I will start off with the lowest charge and shoot all five of that charge and check the group. Then move to the next highest charge and shoot all five at a new target, and so on and so on. I think this will work out for my first trip and I can change it up if a reason arises to do so. Thoughts?

That's the start of the OCW test essentially. I'd recommend not shooting all 5 of the same charge weight in a string and moving on, but rather mixing the rounds in an ammo can and pulling them out randomly (remember my comment about writing the info on the brass above) so that you eliminate any inherent bias, the occasional pulled shot, etc. In your case, you'll set up 5 targets at the get go, labeling each one with the charge weight, shooting at the specified target based on the round you pull out of the can randomly.

What you want to look for is not necessarily the load that groups the absolute best or hits closest to the bullseye - rather look for the targets that have point of impacts that are similar. What you'll usually find is that those are all within a few tenths of a grain of one another on charge weight.

Say you load everything up and find that the common groups end up at (just throwing numbers out here for example) 27.1, 26.8, 26.5 with your H335.

That would put the OCW at 26.8 grains - which means that you have some flexibility or fluff for variances in brass capacity, brass age, brass brand, primer brand, variances in projectile weight, true powder burn, temperature or whatever else because you have a load range from 26.5 up to 27.1 grains. From that point you can further fine tune with smaller powder charge increments and/or work on seating depth to see if the actual group improves.

OCW builds on the principle that while every gun is unique, every gun is also common. That's why factory loads tend to work in any make, manufacture, etc. of that caliber - because they put in the time to figure out what the OCW is for that caliber and that is what they load their rounds to, or why you can get on any reloading forum and ask about a caliber and powder combo and you'll get a whole lot of responses with damn near the same formula - because that is the combo that just works across the board for that caliber.
dubi
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Start simple with a single stage press. Reloading is like chemistry or baking: follow the simple recipe exactly step by step.

Done get obsessed with the most precise or accurate load at first. Also don't concern yourself with volume of production. Start at bottom of load ladder for your first runs.

Get the basics down, then look at a load for accuracy or hunting. In your favor is loading for a bolt gun, you don't have to build a round that will feed and cycle in a semiautomatic
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