Anyone done this themselves? I have a rifle that has a grey stock that I want to paint while I have some time off over the holidays. I've seen a few different methods but curious if anyone has any tips or pics with any they've done.

Talk to this poster:

https://texags.com/forums/34/topics/3417290

He crushed this!

ttha_aggie_09 said:

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Talk to this poster:

https://texags.com/forums/34/topics/3417290

He crushed this!

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I'm not as talented at stock painting as Wodenaz, as demonstrated in his "copperhead" paint job in the linked thread above, but I've painted a few stocks.

The first one here is a digital camo pattern on a Kimber M8400 Montana stock, using the digital camo stick-on masks and Duracoat paint available from (formerly) Lauer Weaponry, now DuraCoat Firearms Finishes.

https://duracoatfirearmfinishes.com/

This one is an Echols Shrike stock on a custom rifle I built using dark brown DuraCoat with black "specks."

Here is a "sponge camo" finish I did on a Brown "Pound'r" stock on a custom super light rifle I built:

I used copper, bronze, pewter, and black DuraCoat. I sprayed the whole stock with black base coat, then literally applied the colors with a "splotching" technique using a sea sponge, then clear coated.

Here is a rifle I affectionately named "Mr Grinch." It is a Barrett Fieldcraft. The original stock was dark gray with a "pebbled" light gray specks. I masked off the stripes so the original finish made up the stripes, then painted the stock with "Grinch Green" DuraCoat, applied the graphics and clear coated.

I'm not a shill for DuraCoat. I've tried a couple of different finishes, and I like DuraCoat because it is a polyurethane and is very tough, impact resistant in addition to being very fast curing, UV resistant, and easy to apply. It is a catalyzed 2-part finish. They have versions you can mix and use in a sprayer or a version already in spray cans where you press a button on the bottom of the can to unlock and mix the catalyst. In all cases, I used their satin clear coat after the color coats.

All very nicely done, you guys have a type of patience not in my dna. My only experience is trying to tiger stripe my crossman 760 with a marksalot in junior high, ugly.

You just wanted to show us peasants your Schmidt & Bender glass!

Jk nice work on those guns. I've got a couple black plain stocks I want to do this to!

I really like these, especially the sponge job. Do you have a how to on that or could share any videos on that?

Thumbs up for having a Fieldcraft!

TheVarian said:

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I really like these, especially the sponge job. Do you have a how to on that or could share any videos on that?

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For the sponge camo, I just either remove the butt pad or mask it off, remove the rear sling stud and mask the front stud (I use the hole in the front sling stud to hang the stock from with a coat hanger) then thourougly clean the stock with solvent like the thinner for the paint I'm using. If it's a bare synthetic stock, I first scuff it up with a light sanding, clean and spray with primer. If it's a stock that's already been painted, I just give the existing finish a light sanding then wipe down with solvent to clean it. Then I spray the stock with a matte black base coat. Then one at a time, I pour a color into a paper bowl, tear off a piece of a sea sponge so the edge is "ragged," dip the sponge in the paint and GENTLY apply it to the stock in random splotches. If you press too hard, you won't get the textured sponge pattern look; you'll get a solid "blob." Repeat for each color, letting each dry before adding another color. Each time, tear off and use a fresh surface of the sponge so you don't contaminate the next color and don't repeat the same patterns, keeping the splotches totally random looking. I also use a fresh paper bowl for each color for the same reason-preventing color mixing/contamination. Then spray clear coat over the result to even out the sheen in either matte, satin, or gloss clear, depending on the look you want. I use either matte or satin. It's important with DuraCoat that you don't allow more than about 12 hours to pass between color coats or between the end result and the clear coat, to ensure optimal adhesion between coats. That's another reason I like DuraCoat; each color coat cures enough in an hour to apply more finish without any issues. It's a very forgiving finish. They don't recommend applying it in any other way besides spraying because it cures quickly, but you can sponge it on if you work quickly with each color.

I recommend practicing the sponge application on a piece of cardboard or some other scrap piece of material first to get the technique down with the right amount of pressure before applying it to your stock. But, it's a really easy technique that's hard to mess up because it's random to begin with. It also results in a somewhat "grippy" textured surface when finished.

You don't even have to get fancy. Just tape them up and have fun. If you don't like it, add to it. Just start with a base coat color and go from there.


*** Yeah, yeah, replace the laminate on my office floor and perhaps sweep** I'll get right on that!

Ended up going with the sponge method. I used the green, brown and tan camo Krylon paint with a Krylon flat clear. Forgot to take a picture of the gun before, so here's one from a few years ago with a deer. Just a plain grey stock. Hit it with a few coats of the green camo for a base. Then with a sea sponge I started with the tan, then brown. I touched up a few big splotches of brown with tan. Hobby Lobby only had one sea sponge and it really only had one good side so it was a little tough. Hit it with 3 or 4 quick coats of clear and she's all finished up. I'm happy with how it turned out. It's really simple for anyone wanting to do it themselves.

Nice job brother!!! Yeah the sponge camo method is an easy, low risk, no fuss method that's hard to screw up. And even if you do, it's easy to fix.