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Workshop Questions

4,875 Views | 39 Replies | Last: 2 yr ago by BrokeAssAggie
cb
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I'm in the process of building a long overdue shop on my property. Current plan is 40x60, 14ft walls, 2 RUD on 40' side, a 15ft awning on the 60' side, a few windows and walk in door.

Are there any changes you would have made to your shop or things you wish you had considered after the fact? Is 14ft overkill for walls (I'm debating 14 vs 12ft)?

ShouldastayedataTm
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Buddy always wishes he had gone 18 foot walls instead of 16 but he has his home in one end of the shop.
Dirty-8-thirty Ag
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Just built a 30x40 with 16' sidewalls and a 20x40 lean-to on the east side of the barn. I don't think you will regret having 14' sidewalls at all. I screwed up by only doing one roll up door. Should have bit the bullet and added the other roll up door on the opposite side but was being a cheap ass. Will eventually add it but I should have just done it from the get go.

Add more plugs than you think you'll need. Also, I am in the process of figuring out how to run compressed air all the way around the shop with PVC or air hoses and quick connects so no matter where I am working I can use my pneumatic tools without dragging a ton of hose across the shop floor and just hook up to the closest quick connect with my air tool.

Buy good lights & more of them than you think. Nothing worse than a poorly lit workspace when trying to read a tape or other things you need to be able to see well to do.
Roger That
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I have 16' walls and 14' doors. I have a smaller 10x10 roll up door on the backside to let the breeze pass through - that was a late addition and I'm really glad I did it.
Gunny456
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Go with 16 ft. or 18' Will keep it cooler and you would have some height for building a mezzanine for storage someday. Put in gable roof vents. Add another garage door in the middle of the 60' side that your shed roof will be. You will like that for air flow and cooling and you will use it during heavy rain.
Bronco6G
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I've got a 50x60 with 20 foot walls and 3 18' RUD. Things I would do different. I'd have at least one small 8x8 or 10x10 RUD, rolling up an 18' foot door to get the weedeater gets old. I thought it would be big enough that insulating would be futile, I was wrong, insulate it. You can have the best lighting in the world but it doesn't beat natural light, position your windows and doors accordingly. Don't worry about plumbing water to the shop, in 15 years I've used the water twice. I only ran 100 amp service thinking I wouldn't be using more than that at any one given time, don't be stupid like me.
schmellba99
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My walls ar 10', wish i would have gone 12.

Also wish i would have used metal open trusses instead of fabricated wood trusses.

Mine is a 20x40 with an additional 15' extended gable on the front and a 10' lean too along one side. I added a 10' uncovered slab on the back.

3 roll up doors - one on each end (offset to the same side) and one on the long side centered under the lean too. I like that setup well.

Wish i had gone ahead and put a shtter in it, decided not to and i regret it. I have plenty of power and water. I added reinforcing in areas that would see equipment on the slab and paid to have the floor epoxy coated before i moved in. Well worth it.
Drillbit4
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I'm about to start mine. I going 40x60' with a 25' awning to store an RV. 14' walls. 3 RUD on one side and 1 more on the other to allow for drive thru of a tractor. Two walk in doors on each end. Two windows in gables.

Is 4" concrete pad thick enough?
schmellba99
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I paid extra to get a 6"
AW 1880
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Watching this thread. I'm getting pretty close to starting my 30x40.
AggieStan
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Drains in floor?
Map out where your shelving will be
milner79
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schmellba99 said:

I paid extra to get a 6"
C ROC N
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Did anyone put a generator/ inverter switch so you can back feed your house during outages? Or a solar panel array w/ charge controller/ inverter / battery combo?
1988PA-Aggie
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Lighting...more is better than less. Maybe have a few switches so you only need to illuminate the areas you are in? Or more where you may do more work?

I would also maybe do one or two on a single switch that you turn on in case you have to run in and get something from the shop rather than turning on the entire shop?
Jason_Roofer
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C ROC N said:

Did anyone put a generator/ inverter switch so you can back feed your house during outages? Or a solar panel array w/ charge controller/ inverter / battery combo?


This is a nice idea but it generally won't work unless you've somehow managed your main panel in your shop. Most shops are (and absolutely should be) fed from a subpanel. There is no way to run a genny and backfeed through that because you cannot properly install a disconnect or interlock since that goes on the main panel.

So, if you do it, you'd have to remember to kill the main at the panel and I simply think that's a poor idea.

If I'm wrong about this, I'm all ears.
Houston-BCS-Austin-Dallas-San Antonio - Infinity Roofing - https://linqapp.com/jason_duke --- JasonDuke@InfinityRoofer.com --- https://infinityrooferjason.blogspot.com/
Rattler12
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Dirty-8-thirty Ag said:

Just built a 30x40 with 16' sidewalls and a 20x40 lean-to on the east side of the barn. I don't think you will regret having 14' sidewalls at all. I screwed up by only doing one roll up door. Should have bit the bullet and added the other roll up door on the opposite side but was being a cheap ass. Will eventually add it but I should have just done it from the get go.

Add more plugs than you think you'll need. Also, I am in the process of figuring out how to run compressed air all the way around the shop with PVC or air hoses and quick connects so no matter where I am working I can use my pneumatic tools without dragging a ton of hose across the shop floor and just hook up to the closest quick connect with my air tool.

Buy good lights & more of them than you think. Nothing worse than a poorly lit workspace when trying to read a tape or other things you need to be able to see well to do.
I wouldn't recommend using PVC for air lines..............

While PVC is a popular and cost-effective material for plumbing applications, it is not recommended for use with compressed air. The use of PVC for compressed air lines can pose serious safety risks and lead to dangerous or even deadly explosions. PVC pipe is known for its flexibility, affordability, and ease of installation.
Can You Use PVC for Air Compressor Lines? Pros and Cons to Con…
allaboutaircompressors.com/can-you-use-pvc-for-air-compressor-lines/
BrazosDog02
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Shops are one of those things it's easy to over design and spend a piss ton of money on and then rarely use. Just think about what you do and how you do it and what would make it better for you. Don't build shop for "well, I might be restoring two 67 Chevrolet trucks I. the coming two decades so I'm going to need 400 outlets, 12 air lines, 4 welder outlets, spray foam, air conditioning…..etc. No you don't.

To hell with running air lines. I have a big compressor and a hose reel that retracts. It's got more than enough air line for any projects or tools I need to run.

I work on a lot of vehicles so the only thing I need is one air hose, a bunch of outlets one welder connection and roll up doors that allow me to drive in one and out the other. That's what I need. What agrams needs is different. What cowdoc needs is different still.

Just think it through. You have an ag tag. You can do this.
Bradley.Kohr.II
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+1 on air lines. Vacuum line might be nice if you do a bunch of wood work.

Fire extinguisher mounts.

+1 on insulation.

Some kind of external wash station for messy stuff.

Eye wash station.

Convenient mounts for safety glasses and ear protection
Gigemags05
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Gotta disagree with brazosag. Now is the time to put things in that don't cost much at all.

I put an outlet every five ft in mine. They cost $1 each. That way no matter how I configured the shop, it has an outlet nearby.

I installed conduits to run pex airlines in. Added about $50. Since I built the shop I've absolutely utilized the airlines for my cnc plasma and my diy paint booth.

I put in dedicated circuits for fans. I put in a dedicated circuit for a mini split (best addition to the shop by a mile), air compressor, and I have three welding outlets and use all three.

None of those items add much to the bottom line during construction and provide a nice clean look. Were I to add them after the fact it would be much more expensive and would not be near as streamlined.

JFABNRGR
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Rain water collection. Put at one end of building and awning off or completely enclose then put filtration system inside the wall.
Tumble Weed
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Spray foam insulation transformed our space because of the amount of dust it keeps out of the barn.

Jason_Roofer
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after thinking on this a bit, here are my opinions. I never cared for outlets every 6'. most went unused. I found that installing quad outlets every 10' was better because no matter what, something always ended up occupying the duplexes. You can alternate your circuits to accommodate them better. I also encourage spending a bit more money on outlets. A nice quality 20A Leviton outlet is a thing of beauty. Mine have lasted over a decade of pretty hard use.

For my usage, I like overhead or wall mounted retractable air hose. Mine are chinesium and not expensive but I love them. Pull what you reed, and then a quick pull and it reels it back in. Best thing since sliced bread. My pneumatic tools are limited as I've mostly phased them out for stronger cordless options. Most of my air usage is compressed air for cleaning and airing up tires from mesquite damage. Lol.

If you're going to be working on vehicles or tractors and equipment, I'd suggest setting your RUD such that you can roll in one door and drive through and out the other side. It's hand for things like welding trailers or things that are towed in. It's handy for that and also nice for cross breezes. I'm not a big "hvac" fanatic when it comes to a shop but that's just me and what I'm used to. I would suggest insulating the roof but that's as much as I'd do personally.

I am a big planner though. I don't want to do anything that is unnecessary just for the sake of "just in case". To me, There is nothing insignificant to the bottom line when it comes to costs in 2023.
Houston-BCS-Austin-Dallas-San Antonio - Infinity Roofing - https://linqapp.com/jason_duke --- JasonDuke@InfinityRoofer.com --- https://infinityrooferjason.blogspot.com/
lukest
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The biggest thing to consider in my opinion is how you want to outfit it!! If everyone who bought snap on knew they are paying 2-3x what they should.... good lord lol.

My small MSS+ was held the price of the Snap on equivalent, AND came with shadow foam inlays for my tools. That itself is worth its weight in gold.
https://www.sonictoolsusa.com
schmellba99
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1988PA-Aggie said:

Lighting...more is better than less. Maybe have a few switches so you only need to illuminate the areas you are in? Or more where you may do more work?

I would also maybe do one or two on a single switch that you turn on in case you have to run in and get something from the shop rather than turning on the entire shop?
I have my circuits/switches set up this way:

1. Interior office/room
2. Run along the right side interior
3. Run along the left side interior
4. Overhang extended gable exterior
5. Lean too exterior
6. Front gable exterior light
7. Rear gable exterior light
8. Light above walk in door

I can turn any on but don't have to light up the whole place. The light above the door is a motion activated bulb, so it stays on all the time. The two gable exterior lights stay on all of the time as well, but are on gooseneck style fixtures and throw the light downards.

I'll probably add one more fixture above where my lathe is just to give me really good light over that one piece of equipment, wish I had done it when my electrician was putting them all in but didn't really think about it at the time.

As you stated - you can never really have too much. With the newer LED fixtures, it's stupid to not put in a lot of good lighting.


schmellba99
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BrazosDog02 said:

Shops are one of those things it's easy to over design and spend a piss ton of money on and then rarely use. Just think about what you do and how you do it and what would make it better for you. Don't build shop for "well, I might be restoring two 67 Chevrolet trucks I. the coming two decades so I'm going to need 400 outlets, 12 air lines, 4 welder outlets, spray foam, air conditioning…..etc. No you don't.

To hell with running air lines. I have a big compressor and a hose reel that retracts. It's got more than enough air line for any projects or tools I need to run.

I work on a lot of vehicles so the only thing I need is one air hose, a bunch of outlets one welder connection and roll up doors that allow me to drive in one and out the other. That's what I need. What agrams needs is different. What cowdoc needs is different still.

Just think it through. You have an ag tag. You can do this.
This. I thought long and hard about what I wanted versus what I really needed.

I think I have the following:

2 each 240v plugs - one for the air compressor (with reel and hose) and one for either a welder or if I ever decide to re-wire my metal lathe motor. Outside of that, I will never need another 240 plug so that's it.

1 each 115v plug overhead in the middle on one of the trusses that I have a retractable extension cord on that can easily reach pretty much everywhere in the shop I need.

Maybe 10-12 115v plugs scattered throughout the shop for my various permanent tools. I put a 4 gang above my work bench so I have plenty of power to keep battery chargers, etc. plugged in. Pretty much the rest of them are dedicated to various tools that won't move (parts washer, sandblast box, drill press, lathe, wire feed welder, etc.) and then a few open ones that I can use as needed.

I did think about water supply - I ran a 1" line out to the barn before the slab was placed and put 2 hose bibs - one at the front, one at the rear. The one at the rear also supplies water to the sink, and if I ever find a good spot to put a urinal in, it will supply that as well.

Which brings me to this....my shop is a decent way back from teh house. I would have made it closer, but couldn't because of an existng building that I couldn't tear down until the shop was completed. I wish I had laid it out a little better with a urinal in mind. So if you aren't putting a dedicated crapper in, at least put a urinal in because you'll inevitably have to take a piss at the most inconvenient time and have a 10 foot walk is way better than not. Normally I'd just piss n the yard, but I have no trees and my neighbors, while not that close, still don't want to see me haning the junk out.

If you are putting an office/room in, plan ahead. Think about where you'll put shelves or various tools, etc. Plan on storage space (I have a decent amount on top of the office room so that worked well). My shop is also oriented almost due north-south, so when I open the OH doors on the ends, I get a good breeze through there. The fan I have mounted high in one of the corners helps too (dedicated outlet for that as well).
NETAG
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Minor, but something to consider depending on how close to your house it will be is a wifi extender/booster. That way you can setup wireless security cameras.
Bronco6G
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schmellba99 said:

BrazosDog02 said:

Shops are one of those things it's easy to over design and spend a piss ton of money on and then rarely use. Just think about what you do and how you do it and what would make it better for you. Don't build shop for "well, I might be restoring two 67 Chevrolet trucks I. the coming two decades so I'm going to need 400 outlets, 12 air lines, 4 welder outlets, spray foam, air conditioning…..etc. No you don't.

To hell with running air lines. I have a big compressor and a hose reel that retracts. It's got more than enough air line for any projects or tools I need to run.

I work on a lot of vehicles so the only thing I need is one air hose, a bunch of outlets one welder connection and roll up doors that allow me to drive in one and out the other. That's what I need. What agrams needs is different. What cowdoc needs is different still.

Just think it through. You have an ag tag. You can do this.
This. I thought long and hard about what I wanted versus what I really needed.

I think I have the following:

2 each 240v plugs - one for the air compressor (with reel and hose) and one for either a welder or if I ever decide to re-wire my metal lathe motor. Outside of that, I will never need another 240 plug so that's it.

1 each 115v plug overhead in the middle on one of the trusses that I have a retractable extension cord on that can easily reach pretty much everywhere in the shop I need.

Maybe 10-12 115v plugs scattered throughout the shop for my various permanent tools. I put a 4 gang above my work bench so I have plenty of power to keep battery chargers, etc. plugged in. Pretty much the rest of them are dedicated to various tools that won't move (parts washer, sandblast box, drill press, lathe, wire feed welder, etc.) and then a few open ones that I can use as needed.

I did think about water supply - I ran a 1" line out to the barn before the slab was placed and put 2 hose bibs - one at the front, one at the rear. The one at the rear also supplies water to the sink, and if I ever find a good spot to put a urinal in, it will supply that as well.

Which brings me to this....my shop is a decent way back from teh house. I would have made it closer, but couldn't because of an existng building that I couldn't tear down until the shop was completed. I wish I had laid it out a little better with a urinal in mind. So if you aren't putting a dedicated crapper in, at least put a urinal in because you'll inevitably have to take a piss at the most inconvenient time and have a 10 foot walk is way better than not. Normally I'd just piss n the yard, but I have no trees and my neighbors, while not that close, still don't want to see me haning the junk out.

If you are putting an office/room in, plan ahead. Think about where you'll put shelves or various tools, etc. Plan on storage space (I have a decent amount on top of the office room so that worked well). My shop is also oriented almost due north-south, so when I open the OH doors on the ends, I get a good breeze through there. The fan I have mounted high in one of the corners helps too (dedicated outlet for that as well).


Am I the only one that pisses outdoors any more, I can't count how many times I've just passed out one of the doors
tamc91
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I don't want to divert too much from shop talk, but if any of you shop owners are car guys, i'll soon be helping my MIL auction or sell a bunch of stuff out of my deceased FIL's hot rod shop in the hill country. Items include a variety of automotive tools, parts, and other specialty items (e.g., signs, . Things like rolling engine hoists, engine stands, jacks, grinders, welders, presses, tool chests, paint supplies, and drawers full of bolts, fittings, etc., etc. If you're in Central Texas and interested in getting a good deal on just about anything you need to restore a car or rebuild engines let me know.

Email is in profile.
schmellba99
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No, and you dont read well either apparently.
cb
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Appreciate the responses. Looking forward to the build.
EskimoJoe
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Rattler12 said:

Dirty-8-thirty Ag said:

Just built a 30x40 with 16' sidewalls and a 20x40 lean-to on the east side of the barn. I don't think you will regret having 14' sidewalls at all. I screwed up by only doing one roll up door. Should have bit the bullet and added the other roll up door on the opposite side but was being a cheap ass. Will eventually add it but I should have just done it from the get go.

Add more plugs than you think you'll need. Also, I am in the process of figuring out how to run compressed air all the way around the shop with PVC or air hoses and quick connects so no matter where I am working I can use my pneumatic tools without dragging a ton of hose across the shop floor and just hook up to the closest quick connect with my air tool.

Buy good lights & more of them than you think. Nothing worse than a poorly lit workspace when trying to read a tape or other things you need to be able to see well to do.
I wouldn't recommend using PVC for air lines..............

While PVC is a popular and cost-effective material for plumbing applications, it is not recommended for use with compressed air. The use of PVC for compressed air lines can pose serious safety risks and lead to dangerous or even deadly explosions. PVC pipe is known for its flexibility, affordability, and ease of installation.
Can You Use PVC for Air Compressor Lines? Pros and Cons to Con…
allaboutaircompressors.com/can-you-use-pvc-for-air-compressor-lines/


I used the kit from northern tool that uses the blue air lines. It comes with connectors and everything.
Bronco6G
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schmellba99 said:

No, and you dont read well either apparently.
I just assumed people knew how to turn their back and piss towards the shop and not the neighbors
EskimoJoe
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Bronco6G said:

schmellba99 said:

No, and you dont read well either apparently.
I just assumed people knew how to turn their back and piss towards the shop and not the neighbors


A discussion of shop ideas has devolved into a discussion about the correct way to piss.

WTF is going on around here? It isn't even the off season.
Daddy-O5
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Usually the pissing matches aren't so literal around here.
schmellba99
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Bronco6G said:

schmellba99 said:

No, and you dont read well either apparently.
I just assumed people knew how to turn their back and piss towards the shop and not the neighbors
That might work if I didn't have gables and extensions all around, and I don't fancy pissing on my own shop because I'm not a fan of urinating on my buildings or equipment.

You do what works for you vato, this thread is about things to do, etc. while building a shop - one of those things *might* be putting a urinal in if you don't have a good layout or crapper.

The horror!
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