To all, I am brainstorming on how to keep raccoons off of our regular barrel type spinner feeders. I am thinking about putting carpet tack boards on the legs and securing with zip-strips. Has anyone tried this and does it work?

https://www.moultriefeeders.com/varmint-guard-easy-and-pro-lock-feeders?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=18136790082&utm_content=&utm_term=&gadid=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhaTy0bjkgAMVR0t_AB1fNAj8EAQYBSABEgJ76_D_BwE



like this but homemade is what we use

other option is 45-70, thermal goggles and a case of beer

If you find something that works let me know…

Mine are getting too comfortable

Cayenne pepper bags

Momma used to brush them off the back porch with a broom.

I have had some success with 4" PVC pipe on the feeder legs. Saw this one time years ago in Houston at what is now Hunters Extravaganza. Someone was actually selling these. I cut three pieces of 4" PVC pipe about 2' long and three pieces of "dog" chain about 18" long. I take some self tapping screws and screw one end of the chain to the end of the PVC pipe, slip the pipe over the feeder leg, and screw the other end of the chain to the bottom side of the feeder barrel. I painted the pipe black so as to hopefully not spook the deer and the next time I went out the pipe had long scratches down them where the coons tried to climb onto the PC pipe after climbing the feeder legs and the PVC pipe rolls on them and they fall off. On TBH, come have touted using Slinky's on the feeder legs- attach one end of the Slinky to where the feeder leg bracket attaches to the barrel and let the Slinky fall down the length of the legs. I finally said to heck with it and put Eliminator plates on all my spinner motors.

Academy typically carries Shark Teeth for feeder legs. Better than carpet tacking but far from 100% effective.

Russ79 said:

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I have had some success with 4" PVC pipe on the feeder legs. Saw this one time years ago in Houston at what is now Hunters Extravaganza. Someone was actually selling these. I cut three pieces of 4" PVC pipe about 2' long and three pieces of "dog" chain about 18" long. I take some self tapping screws and screw one end of the chain to the end of the PVC pipe, slip the pipe over the feeder leg, and screw the other end of the chain to the bottom side of the feeder barrel. I painted the pipe black so as to hopefully not spook the deer and the next time I went out the pipe had long scratches down them where the coons tried to climb onto the PC pipe after climbing the feeder legs and the PVC pipe rolls on them and they fall off. On TBH, come have touted using Slinky's on the feeder legs- attach one end of the Slinky to where the feeder leg bracket attaches to the barrel and let the Slinky fall down the length of the legs. I finally said to heck with it and put Eliminator plates on all my spinner motors.

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This what I use, except I suspect with single piece of bailing wire about 2' long and use one length of pipe to within about 2' of ground, you want it to have lots of play. I also split the pipe so that it's eSy to put over legs, and then drill hole on opposite side from split to run that bailing wire through.

Works like a champ.

They make coon traps that are safe for other animals. They sell a bait that they can't resist. They get their arm trapped and either die or chew it off. They work hella well.

2ndChanceAg96 said:

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They make coon traps that are safe for other animals. They sell a bait that they can't resist. They get their arm trapped and either die or chew it off. They work hella well.

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We use dog proof coon traps, they work.
And provide extra work and excitement for the kids

ought1ag said:

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https://www.moultriefeeders.com/varmint-guard-easy-and-pro-lock-feeders?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=18136790082&utm_content=&utm_term=&gadid=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhaTy0bjkgAMVR0t_AB1fNAj8EAQYBSABEgJ76_D_BwE



like this but homemade is what we use

other option is 45-70, thermal goggles and a case of beer

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Ours are like that, but the raccoons are able to reach inside and spin the spinner and have corn fall. I have also thought about smearing bearing grease on the legs and see if that works. A six inch slathering on each leg about 2 1/2 feet off of the ground would make it too slippery to continue climbing.

I've seen the PVC pipe work well. Has anybody tried grease or oil?

I've used crisco and cayenne pepper on the legs. Works for a while. Also use Duke's coon traps but only catch the young ones. The smarter one's that know how to climb a feeder ignore them or have learned how to get the marshmellows out of the traps without triggering them (constantly check them only to find marshmellows gone but not triggered).

In typical OB fashion, I am going to tell you to get stand n fill feeders that either have a cage welded around the outside (ASF) or one that has a similar build with ZERO way a racoon can reach their fat fingers near the spinner plate.

I tried carpet tacks on a protein feeder and that didn't work. Best setup I had for a corn feeder on a barrel style setup was full circumference coon cage + eliminator spinner plate. Still wasn't bullet proof.

Raccoons are incredibly intelligent animals with nothing but time... they will find a way to climb, jump, and slide down a feeder to get to the corn/protein if it is possible.

TacosaurusRex said:

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Momma used to brush them off the back porch with a broom.

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This. This is why I love the OB. Blue parachute for you!

Eliminator plates are a 90% fix. Add a cheap varmint guard along with the eliminator plate and youve got a permanent 100% solution.

Killing them doesn't work. I coon cuffed over 200 in less than a year and couldn't tell any difference.

2ndChanceAg96 said:

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They make coon traps that are safe for other animals. They sell a bait that they can't resist. They get their arm trapped and either die or chew it off. They work hella well.

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Duke's traps.

Problem with any trap is that you need to be out there the next morning to check them and dispatch any critters. If not, it can get ugly real quick, especially as hot and dry as it is now.

For sure. Don't put one under a trailer and leave it for a month or so.

Maybe best way is stop filling feeders. Start walking and stalking so you can enjoy a hunt. Shoot racoons while out walking if you like. Helps with the hunt part of hunting.

Don't use the coon cage. That just gives them something to hold onto while they rake corn to the ground.

B-1 83 said:

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I've seen the PVC pipe work well. Has anybody tried grease or oil?

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Tried both. I'm in Webb county and they both make a fine medium to hold blown sand to eventually make it easier for them to climb legs.

I feel certain that my coons appreciated my efforts to ease their struggles.

Turf96 said:

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Maybe best way is stop filling feeders. Start walking and stalking so you can enjoy a hunt. Shoot racoons while out walking if you like. Helps with the hunt part of hunting.

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This is a very underrated troll post. Bravo, sir!

Tandy is right.

I just keep killing them. It's fun and now they they donr like hanging around. My 17 HMR AR is my friend. Good luck

What's wrong with the total motor enclosure that are on the academy feeders? I have photos with 10 raccoons on and around the feeder but they have yet to get into it.

At my other house I had issues with them on bird feeders so I wrapped all of them in rigid hvac duct and shorted them with 30w motor oil. Not ideal but it was effective.

tandy miller said:

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Mixed with Big Red.

So now tell us. Just spread it around the feeder? Have heard about fly bait….but not the best if anything else can drink it?

Friendly advice - be careful about posting this on the internet…

If you're using the ASF EZ feeders, an easy modification keeps the coons at bay.

think i have an old bottle in the garage that i need to check the methomyl percentage of. Remember someone talking about how the manufacturers started making it less potent once it became notorious what people were using it for.

Vasolene / Petroleum jelly

Buy the 13 oz container.

Stick your hand in the plastic shopping bag you bought it in....use it like a glove to dig out a large glob with your bag covered hand.

The 13 oz container is usually good for 3 legs.

Once finished grab the empty container with your bag hand, and pull the bag loops over it with your clean hand. I can typically do this without getting any on me. The big thing is remembering it's on the legs in the future and not brushing against them.

This will last an entire season....maybe 2 according to the environment. It absolutely stops coons from climbing the legs.

Total cost - about $3 per feeder

Simply build cages out of 1"x2" welded wire. Build them where they slip over the bottom of the barrel, then tie them to the legs. We have ran these on all of our feeders for 30 years with zero worries about coons.

yeah they definitely can still spin it, but it slows em down a little. Here the past couple years before season starts I have been using foot traps and have trapped one or two at each feeder and now when I do see them on camera they are just passing though, and not posted up like its a free buffet.

I've used the carpet tack strips on legs before and it didn't work. If anything, it just gave them better traction and they walked right over them. A buddy tried greasing the legs. Didn't work either; just made a mess and collected corn and corn dust.

The only thing that really works is to select spinner plates, cages, and other guards that prevent coons from being able to access the corn in the first place. I have converted 100% over to stand and fill type feeders with large varmint cages that prevent coons from being able to reach the motor spinner plates. The Lamco "double disk" spinner guard is another great design that keeps coons away from being able to reach the spinner plate. Essentially you have to either use some type of guarding that is much longer than their arms so they cannot reach the spinner or you have to switch to an "Eliminator" style spinner plate that closes off against the exit spout when the motor isn't running. Or both.