I have my dad's old Marlin 336 in 30/30. The bluing is in good condition but the stock needs some TLC and the lever isn't latching properly.

Actually stock seems like it's in pretty good condition but the finish is what's in terrible shape on the fore end.
This should be a pretty easy job for a novice, no? Any tips or resources you recommend?

Also, the lever doesn't latch securely. It will latch and stay latched if the gun is upside down, but gravity alone is enough to undo it if it's right side up. I did a quick internet search for solutions but didn't see anything obvious. I would assume some kind of worn out latch mechanism but could it just use a thorough cleaning? I will break it down and clean as best I can this weekend but wanted to ask this while I was thinking about it and before I get into it.

TIA!

The latch is probably something worn or broke internally, but I will say that my 1895 Marlin .45-70 has something similar where you have to physically squeeze the lever just a bit so it will seat and fire. Not sure if that is a design aspect, but likely is.

The furniture depends on your woodworking skills. You can pull it off easy enough, from that point on it is a light sand and whatever refinish you desire.

schmellba99 said:

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The latch is probably something worn or broke internally, but I will say that my 1895 Marlin .45-70 has something similar where you have to physically squeeze the lever just a bit so it will seat and fire. Not sure if that is a design aspect, but likely is.

The furniture depends on your woodworking skills. You can pull it off easy enough, from that point on it is a light sand and whatever refinish you desire.

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It is, that's another safety feature. You have to squeeze lever and butt at same time for trigger to release and hammer to drop.

I'm not following you? Can you explain more? Are you referring to my OP situation? I definitely think something is wrong with mine. Latch just barely catches sometimes and when it does it just takes a soft glance of your finger to release.

Let me check my 336, my Winchester has the feature.
Yes just like the mod 94, the M 336 has the same feature. I wouldn't modify your lever action, as your rifle is used it gets worn and the lever might droop but for it to shoot, the lever has to be squeezed up to the butt.
My 94 droops due to use, my 336 I've shot maybe 5x's.

Bam. Here is a simple test about your Marlin that you say the lever droops.
First. Make sure it is unloaded!
Then with the rifle in a normal use position work the action to cock it.
Now with the lever drooping very slightly take a finger and place a little downward pressure on the lever.
If the action easily comes open somewhat or the lever falls a little, the bolt lock sear ( that's what I call it) is probably worn.
Do not shoot it and take it to a good gunsmith.

Thanks, Shoefly! But this doesn't seem like it's supposed to be this way. You can see here how much it opens. The bolt even comes back over a quarter inch.

Thanks, Gunny! If I did your text right it isn't that. I worked the action to cock it and it didn't stay latched. Opened just like in my pic above. It definitely took a good nudge to get it to open further. Obviously the force needed is subjective so maybe it is what you say.

Now this is the dumb part… this gun has been in my safe for over 10 years. It's always been this way. I THINK that I replaced this part on the lever pictured below about 7-8 years ago but I can't remember for sure. I know I ordered the part but I don't remember actually replacing it. I can't find the part now in any of my kits/cases where it would certainly be so I'm assuming I did replace it.

Anyway, it doesn't look worn as of now.

I don't know if my terminology is correct. (Probably not). However, it's the part that the part you replaced locks down to. With it not engaging that it does not appear to be in battery properly. This is not normal and I would suggest having a smith look at it.

With the bolt moving back it is definitely not locking and can't be put in battery.

I would definitely not try to shoot it this way sir.

Nice rifle though! It will be perfect when you get it repaired.

Thanks! I can see that pin that the part I replaced engages and it look fine but something is definitely not right.

I'll look into a gunsmith.

You are missing the site ramp just like I am on my first year manufacture 336. Is there a reason for that? Do they shoot straight without it? I have never been able to find one thin enough for my site. Mine measures .060".

Yes, that's not right! Don't shoot! Where are you located? There's a good gunsmith in Refugio named Dwight, he's a good one. He's got a machine shop and has duplicated parts for me. Very reasonable too.

My old 336 had this problem years ago. I believe the gun smith said the lock was bad. It was a quick and (at that time) inexpensive fix.

Definitely won't shoot it! Thanks for telling me not to because I very well may have thrown it in my truck next time I went to go shoot.

I'm in SA. I'll probably take it to Dury's

I can highly recommend Ryan Hoover of RH Guns in Fredericksburg, Texas. He is a master gunsmith and builds custom rifles as well. He is the official gunsmith for Cimarron Arms and the Cowboy action shooting assoc. He is well versed on working on older lever guns. I have had him work on many old Winchesters and Colts and he is literally amazing with his talent. Phone is 830-383-1001.

If you have not try Numrich Gun Parts www.gunpartscorp.com

they have a lot of older restoration parts that Brownells and Midway don't. Very knowledgible folks. I had the exact issue and they had the part. ( Been about 8 years ago though). They are my go to folks on my old Winchesters and Colts.

I will probably do that! I get out to Fredericksburg fairly often and could drop by. Thanks again!

BrazosDog02 said:

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You are missing the site ramp just like I am on my first year manufacture 336. Is there a reason for that? Do they shoot straight without it? I have never been able to find one thin enough for my site. Mine measures .060".

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My dad had a scope on it when I was a kid. I shot it a few times with the scope but he must have removed the scope and I've never shot it without. I didn't even notice the ramp was missing, but I don't plan to put a scope back on it. Unfortunately the receiver is drilled and tapped.