need OB advice on removing a really stuck nerled pin

my trolling motor has a nerled hinge pin which is at the base of the arm and base plate (aka rest) of the unit. This pin also holds a support yoke bracket to hold up the shaft while driving (not in use). The support bracket is simply a U shaped piece of plastic and is what broke so I'm trying to punch out this pin.
Minn Kota confirmed all I should do is remove pin but can't tell me which way they would have installed the pin so I've tried hammering a punch onto both sides. It won't budge AT ALL.
I called local trolling motor shop and they said "why pay me $80 to punch it out when you can do it yourself pretty easily". So I know I'm attempting what should be done. I've also watched some youtube videos doing the same thing and they didn't have any problem removing it.
I even looked at what could be putting pressure against the pin and it would be the lower arm so I removed the pin holding the head of the TM that was putting weight on the arm. The arm now moves so it clearly is no longer under a load.
And I STILL can't get the pin to budge. It's stainless steel and been washed every time been in the salt and shows no sign of rust.

any ideas?

You need a bigger hammer.

Soak it with a penetrating oil, let is sit for a day, and hit with 3 pound sledge

Bronco6G said:

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You need a bigger hammer.

Soak it with a penetrating oil, let is sit for a day, and hit with 3 pound sledge

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you think PB blaster would work?

Yup

Stainless steel touching aluminum causes problems. You might try heating with a micro torch and spraying PB blaster while it's hot.

You need a bigger hammer and become prepared to replace more parts.

If I understand the issue, I would cut off the plastic part and leave the knurled pin in the other part. At that point, you should have a pin sticking out of two sides, or a pin sticking through the middle of something that you can grab with vice grips and attempt to TWIST in order to free it up. At that point, you can go back to your hammer and punch.

If it won't twist out, and it won't hammer out, then i go to my Cobalt bits and cutting oil. If I have as much trouble as you do, I replace that piece of shat with a bolt and nut like the factory should have done in the first place. Usually, engineers don't think much further ahead than half a step, less if the bean counters get involved.

yeah I thought about trying to twist it as well. I can get to the middle of the pin as it is somewhat exposed. But with it being nerled I would think it'd be harder to twist.

And yes, I was already considering replacing the nerled pin with bolt, washer and nut.

Cobalt bit would be very last resort. Should work but also trying to avoid damaging the frame(s) that are around the pin edges.

Like the guys said, make sure to put some penetrating oil on it and let it sit a while.

Everybody has their preferences; mine is Kroil. It's never let me down when trying to separate stuck parts.




Am I right that the pin is protruding beyond the surface a bit? If so, you can try a C-Clamp and really ratchet the pressure down on it to get it to at least start.

If the pin is slightly below the surface, make sure your pin punch is a tiny bit smaller than the size of the hole. If it still won't move, you can try the C-Clamp method but stick a BB or ball bearing into the recess.

Did the guy really want $80 to get that out for you? Man, I feel old.

the pin is NOT sticking out of either side. Actually, after pounding on it a bit this morning with regular hammer and punch I think it moved maybe a 1/16 of an inch. I can see and feel it just barely protruding from the other side.

Tried C clamp with a neighbor but couldn't get it wide enough so had to use small bit as a punch and it kept rolling off to side so not good contact.

the punch I'm using is about 3/4 the size of the pin.

and yes, the guys rate at the trolling motor shop is $80/hour. Which is about the same if not a little less than boat shops I've talked with in the area.

If it moved a little I would oil it and try to move it back and forth. Then, BFH.

Didn't realize Aerokroil changed their can. Been using their stuff for about 15 years and it is the best out there. Used to do a bunch of millwright work and if it was stuck, aerokroil would get it unstuck.

BCStalk said:

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Didn't realize Aerokroil changed their can. Been using their stuff for about 15 years and it is the best out there. Used to do a bunch of millwright work and if it was stuck, aerokroil would get it unstuck.

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Damn right!