X-posted from the Automotive board.

So I'm starting to look more at buying a TT. We've rented them multiple times and I've grown up driving and traveling in them - not a novice but always want to get more perspective and learn more.

This is probably the wrong board because everyone here thinks you need a 3/4 ton diesel to pull anything more than 6k #, which is absurd. I spend time on F150 forums and there are people pulling 8-9k with old F150s all the time.

I have a '21 F150 Lariat with the Max tow package and 3.5L boost. It's rated to tow 13,900# and has a 2,200# payload. That's crazy to do but I can definitely see HOW it could pull that. We had about 8,000# in a 34' TT in Colorado last summer and I was cruising over passes going 65mph with no issues what so ever. Never felt like it was pushing me around and got about 9mpg - I was sold on these new F150s after that.

Here's the predicament I'm in...what can I realistically do to improve the ability, comfort, and safety of pulling something say... 9,000 # at around 37'? I think I could do it right now as is but would like some ideas. Please don't say "buy an F250".

Is it, upgrade breaks, get better tires? Really focus on getting the WD hitch tuned, buy "this" brand WD hitch with sway? Focus on putting all the payload weight in the trailer on the axel or try and keep some in the truck bed to "give it more ass". Things like that.

Weight is one thing, length is another. Trucks these days can pull weights way more effectively and efficiently than ever, and can stop way more weight effectively and efficiently. What has not changed as much is the length. An F150 setup as you described can pull a 9000lb trailer without much difficulty weight wise. But at 37 foot long you are going to need to look at the wheelbase of your truck. Is it an extended or club cab with a short bed or is it a single cab with a long bed or one of the above extended cabs with a long bed? I would say an F150 setup as yours with the tow package that is an extended cab with a short bed would struggle in any wind at all with a trailer that long. With a long bed ie 8 foot bed on top of the extended cab it would be easier. When I bought my travel trailer one of the ones I pulled on a test pull was right at 8000 lbs unloaded and 36 and half feet hitch to bumper. I was test pulling it with a Dodge 1500 megacab with a hemi, the 5.5 or maybe 6 foot bed, dont remember, set up with trailer towing package. I took the trailer out on the highway in Kansas City and it was windy, not fun. I ended up with a much smaller trailer that topped out at 5000 lb dry weight, and hitch to bumper length of 28 feet. Had absolutely no issues pulling it all over the midwest and finally here to Texas. My lengths matched much better. The weight of the bigger trailer was never an issue the truck got up to speed and maintained speed fine. Stopped fine, but the sway and the leverage of the extra 8.5 ft of trailer was a huge issue.

Edit to add weight distribution amd sway control will be an absolute must and a minimum, definitely want to stiffen the suspension on the truck as much as you can, add airbags to help with the weight distribution and suspension control.

I'd commit to a 3/4 ton truck or better.

What you can do, and what you should do, are usually two different things.

I know, exactly the answer you didn't want.

Just trying to save you a whole lot of trouble down the road. This coming from somebody who owns a trucking company and we pull similar loads multiple times per day.

ShouldastayedataTm said:

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Weight is one thing, length is another. Trucks these days can pull weights way more effectively and efficiently than ever, and can stop way more weight effectively and efficiently. What has not changed as much is the length. An F150 setup as you described can pull a 9000lb trailer without much difficulty weight wise. But at 37 foot long you are going to need to look at the wheelbase of your truck. Is it an extended or club cab with a short bed or is it a single cab with a long bed or one of the above extended cabs with a long bed? I would say an F150 setup as yours with the tow package that is an extended cab with a short bed would struggle in any wind at all with a trailer that long. With a long bed ie 8 foot bed on top of the extended cab it would be easier. When I bought my travel trailer one of the ones I pulled on a test pull was right at 8000 lbs unloaded and 36 and half feet hitch to bumper. I was test pulling it with a Dodge 1500 megacab with a hemi, the 5.5 or maybe 6 foot bed, dont remember, set up with trailer towing package. I took the trailer out on the highway in Kansas City and it was windy, not fun. I ended up with a much smaller trailer that topped out at 5000 lb dry weight, and hitch to bumper length of 28 feet. Had absolutely no issues pulling it all over the midwest and finally here to Texas. My lengths matched much better. The weight of the bigger trailer was never an issue the truck got up to speed and maintained speed fine. Stopped fine, but the sway and the leverage of the extra 8.5 ft of trailer was a huge issue.

Edit to add weight distribution amd sway control will be an absolute must and a minimum, definitely want to stiffen the suspension on the truck as much as you can, add airbags to help with the weight distribution and suspension control.

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thanks

Yeah, we pulled a 34.5' down to Galveston earlier this year in 25mph sustained and 40mph gusts - wasn't fun but also never felt "scared". Just slow it down. I don't mind cruising at 60mph on an abnormally windy day. The technology on these things is amazing - it could detect sway from wind and actually applied the trailer brakes and slowed me down automatically. Lane keep assist is also pretty stout on these things - keeps you in the lines.

I should have said - I've got the supercrew 5.5ft bed so 146" wheelbase and 232" long.

WD is definitely a must and I've used them, I just feel like some are better than others. There's lots of brands so wanted a few suggestions on "yeah this one sucks, it was too hard to adjust" or "get this brand and model, definitely"

I hear you on the 36/37 foot. The one we pulled to Colorado I could barely feel like it was back there. Almost 35' bumper to bumper.

For the style we want (separate room in the back for kiddos), you've got to kick it out to 37' or so and push 9k lbs.

28' just won't get it done. I'm really mostly on the fence about keeping that 34', which is usually a bed, bath and corner bunks with couch+table or go up the extra 3-4' for the big dawg.

What airbags do you see/suggest? the ones with auto-inflate or using a pump? I'm considering putting on the bilsteins for a front lift and will need tires in 15k miles probably. Likely going to an E-rated tire but will think about that more when the time comes.

I preferred the pump ones just because it gave me better control, in my mind, and they were cheaper at the time. It was also just me living in the trailer full time and kids on weekends, so did not need the extra length you might need.
As for hitches I have and still use a Reese and have had no issues, it was the best I could get at the time, this was 2009. But being in the market for a new trailer and having a bigger truck now as well, I am looking at a bigger trailer and have done some light research on hitches and Husky and Andersen branded hitches seem to get some great reviews. And seemed to be rated very well. But all i have experience with is Reese at this point. Oh amd new truck is a 3/4 ton with an 8 foot bed. But single cab so not as long as my old truck.

That F150 transmission won't last if your pulling max capacity or over capacity all the time, I would never do that. Many of those larger RVs are barely legal for F250s… each Rv has a certain tongue weight that will actually change (increase) as you put more things inside an rv (luggage, raw water, grey black water)

If you were to get into a wreck and your not using a vehicle with the right tongue pulling capacity you could be sued even though you weren't at fault…. That would supersede all my other thoughts when looking at the F150… it's not worth the risk, get a truck that has the back end bed weight pulling capacity.. and then add extra springs or air bags to be safe and keep your ride smooth. That F150 will probably do the job but I would bet it's not legal therefore your just driving down the roads like an uninsured motorist .. screw that it ain't worth it

fullback44 said:

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That F150 transmission won't last if your pulling max capacity or over capacity all the time, I would never do that. Many of those larger RVs are barely legal for F250s… each Rv has a certain tongue weight that will actually change (increase) as you put more things inside an rv (luggage, raw water, grey black water)

If you were to get into a wreck and your not using a vehicle with the right tongue pulling capacity you could be sued even though you weren't at fault…. That would supersede all my other thoughts when looking at the F150… it's not worth the risk, get a truck that has the back end bed weight pulling capacity.. and then add extra springs or air bags to be safe and keep your ride smooth. That F150 will probably do the job but I would bet it's not legal therefore your just driving down the roads like an uninsured motorist .. screw that it ain't worth it

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yeah but what I'm talking about isn't over capacity...

There's not many 37 ft RVs with a 2200 tongue weight .. well I guess their may be I'm was thinking about 5th wheels ..

Don't guess on weight. Stuff adds up real quick.

Make 3 weight measurements;
1-Trailer loaded for a regular trip. Fresh water tank filled, food, clothes tools, chairs, outdoor table, hoses, etc.
Make sure trailer is unhooked from tow vehicle an the hitch is on the scale.
2- Tongue weight of trailer.
3- Weight of you fully loaded truck; ie full fuel tank, all family members seated, tool kits, spare tires, more food, personal belongings, etc. This is the easiest one to have exceed the trucks weight capacity, because you are adding the tongue weight as well. An 8000lb trailer should be around 10%, or 800lbs.

I'm assuming since it's a travel trailer, you will by definition be traveling with it.

If that's the case, you will likely be pulling up and down hills, mountains, and in weather including high winds.

There's a reason you don't see people pulling that kind of weight with half ton trucks. You're going to burn up the brakes, transmission and all kinds of other stuff on that truck that's not designed to pull that kind of weight over time.

4 said:

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I'm assuming since it's a travel trailer, you will by definition be traveling with it.

If that's the case, you will likely be pulling up and down hills, mountains, and in weather including high winds.

There's a reason you don't see people pulling that kind of weight with half ton trucks. You're going to burn up the brakes, transmission and all kinds of other stuff on that truck that's not designed to pull that kind of weight over time.

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is pulling it 4-6 times a year "over time"?

if these things are rated to pull that weight and I'm within configurations... why would I be "tearing it up"?

4 said:

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I'd commit to a 3/4 ton truck or better.

What you can do, and what you should do, are usually two different things.

I know, exactly the answer you didn't want.

Just trying to save you a whole lot of trouble down the road. This coming from somebody who owns a trucking company and we pull similar loads multiple times per day.

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Multiple times per day is the key difference. If someone isn't comfortable pulling loads then you can always out truck the load to make it feel better. There's absolutely nothing wrong with towing 9k or 10k pounds with proper WD/sway control hitch and setup. If I was doing it daily I would get a 3/4 ton for sure. As it stands now I pull my 7500# TT on average 10x per year and wouldn't want to daily drive an F250 in Austin traffic.

A competent driver can safely pull what he is describing with a properly equipped F150.

Like someone above you said, length is more of a factor.

This is coming from someone who drove similar loads 3x a week for 4 years with everything from a 2004 F150 (sucked and if we were talking about this in 2004 I would say 3/4 all day), to a E-250 with a 5.4 (also sucked but the transmission was better than the F150), to a 2010 F250 diesel that was tuned (much better power wise, slightly better control than the 150 and basically the same as the van with the wind sail of sides it had).

If he is experienced and comfortable he is well within the safe limit. If he is someone getting into towing for the first time I would stay below 60mph and not go near the coast or up the mountains.

Based on what he pulled in his OP I would say the added weight and length is nowhere near unsafe.

ChoppinDs40 said:

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ShouldastayedataTm said:

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Weight is one thing, length is another. Trucks these days can pull weights way more effectively and efficiently than ever, and can stop way more weight effectively and efficiently. What has not changed as much is the length. An F150 setup as you described can pull a 9000lb trailer without much difficulty weight wise. But at 37 foot long you are going to need to look at the wheelbase of your truck. Is it an extended or club cab with a short bed or is it a single cab with a long bed or one of the above extended cabs with a long bed? I would say an F150 setup as yours with the tow package that is an extended cab with a short bed would struggle in any wind at all with a trailer that long. With a long bed ie 8 foot bed on top of the extended cab it would be easier. When I bought my travel trailer one of the ones I pulled on a test pull was right at 8000 lbs unloaded and 36 and half feet hitch to bumper. I was test pulling it with a Dodge 1500 megacab with a hemi, the 5.5 or maybe 6 foot bed, dont remember, set up with trailer towing package. I took the trailer out on the highway in Kansas City and it was windy, not fun. I ended up with a much smaller trailer that topped out at 5000 lb dry weight, and hitch to bumper length of 28 feet. Had absolutely no issues pulling it all over the midwest and finally here to Texas. My lengths matched much better. The weight of the bigger trailer was never an issue the truck got up to speed and maintained speed fine. Stopped fine, but the sway and the leverage of the extra 8.5 ft of trailer was a huge issue.

Edit to add weight distribution amd sway control will be an absolute must and a minimum, definitely want to stiffen the suspension on the truck as much as you can, add airbags to help with the weight distribution and suspension control.

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thanks

Yeah, we pulled a 34.5' down to Galveston earlier this year in 25mph sustained and 40mph gusts - wasn't fun but also never felt "scared". Just slow it down. I don't mind cruising at 60mph on an abnormally windy day. The technology on these things is amazing - it could detect sway from wind and actually applied the trailer brakes and slowed me down automatically. Lane keep assist is also pretty stout on these things - keeps you in the lines.

I should have said - I've got the supercrew 5.5ft bed so 146" wheelbase and 232" long.

WD is definitely a must and I've used them, I just feel like some are better than others. There's lots of brands so wanted a few suggestions on "yeah this one sucks, it was too hard to adjust" or "get this brand and model, definitely"

I hear you on the 36/37 foot. The one we pulled to Colorado I could barely feel like it was back there. Almost 35' bumper to bumper.

For the style we want (separate room in the back for kiddos), you've got to kick it out to 37' or so and push 9k lbs.

28' just won't get it done. I'm really mostly on the fence about keeping that 34', which is usually a bed, bath and corner bunks with couch+table or go up the extra 3-4' for the big dawg.

What airbags do you see/suggest? the ones with auto-inflate or using a pump? I'm considering putting on the bilsteins for a front lift and will need tires in 15k miles probably. Likely going to an E-rated tire but will think about that more when the time comes.

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Don't mix airbags and WD hitch. A properly setup WD hitch will keep you level as long as you don't take too much rake out with the front lift. Lifting the rear with bags while hooked to a WD hitch is counter intuitive to the way they work. That's why you leave them hooked up and lift the rear of your truck with the trailer jack to get the bars on and off. It reduces the pressure on the bars.

I've read that too. I also read some people put airbags for just a little more cushion the back.

4 said:

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I'm assuming since it's a travel trailer, you will by definition be traveling with it.

If that's the case, you will likely be pulling up and down hills, mountains, and in weather including high winds.

There's a reason you don't see people pulling that kind of weight with half ton trucks. You're going to burn up the brakes, transmission and all kinds of other stuff on that truck that's not designed to pull that kind of weight over time.

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This. X2

And I'll add that I've seen 2 different jack-knife/ roll over wrecks with half ton trucks and bumper pull trailers over the years. One on 45 near Huntsviile and another coming down the hill outside Castroville/Hondo area.

ChoppinDs40 said:

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I've read that too. I also read some people put airbags for just a little more cushion the back.

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Airbags are used to stabilize a load.. for instance when you go over a bridge your load will sometimes "bounce" and can move the truck all over the road… when you stiffen the springs with extra airbag support this doesn't occur… I have them on my F350 for hauling cattle or hay with one of our long gooseneck trailers that can weigh 25,000 lbs or more when loaded, I will put 60 lbs of air in the bags .. with no load, I run 5-8 lbs of air to smooth out the ride, the same thing happens with rvs that are at or near the capacity of a tow vehicle, if your at or near capacity you can bounce all over the road.. when that keeps happening all the time be ready to buy new shocks and springs …. I've been pulling all kinds of Loads a long long time.. trust me I know

If you insist on towing with an F150… I would get a sway bar and air bags at a min

This is what can happen .. good video

ChoppinDs40 said:

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I've read that too. I also read some people put airbags for just a little more cushion the back.

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I have a 2020 F150 XLT with a 3.5EB and the 6.5' bed. Pulling a 2021 Keystone Cougar 29BHS. Its a heavy beast at 8500lbs and 34.5' tongue to bumper. I've ran it through the CAT scales prior to a trip to get tongue and axle weights. I'm about 1150 on the tongue depending on how many clothes my wife decides to bring...

General Overview thought - While I ran through all the calcs based on my payload cap and towing cap and everything is in the "green".. your margins for settings on things like your WDH, tire pressure, placement of loads, etc. i feel are much tighter the smaller truck you go.. My buddy has a very similar trailer (slightly less GVWR) towing with a F250 and for him.. no WDH and he can throw in bikes, tools, food, clothes, etc and it doesn't make a difference. I have to put thought into where food is going, how much water is in the fresh water tank, where the clothes go, how my front compartment is loaded etc. But after 12 or so trips in the last year I've got it down.

Thoughts on WDH - I run a Blue Ox Sway Pro bought through the dealer.. I learned quickly the dealer and their service techs HAVE NO IDEA how to setup and install a WDH which is why i'm still running 1000lb bars :-(.. After some tuning with the chains and such it works very well. I also run a 2.25" Readylift in the front of the truck so that has to be taken into account. From what i've heard and researched a ProPride or Hensley hitch is the end all be all for sway prevention.

Additional thoughts - Run E Rated tires on the truck.. and at the correct pressure.. I run 295/60/20 Falken Wildpeaks with 70 in the back and 64 in the front.. thats just what i've found to have good sidewall strength and handling. Also run E rated tires on the trailer... with actual trailer tires.. I run Goodyear Endurance at 75PSI.

I have not yet gone to bags on my truck.. I'm torn between the research i've done on RAS systems vs bags. I'm happy with the setup i have now even though i have a tad bit of squat (probably due to the lift kit on the front) Partial reason is I've also been looking to jump to a 250 if they ever come back in stock.

Will just add this..

In the end a 34-37' trailer is just a big ass wind sail riding behind you.. I dont think no matter what WDH you use or anything is going to stop the suck and blow of a passing 18 wheeler.

I've conditioned myself to do 65mph in the right lane and hug the shoulder anytime something bigger than an econovan rolls by. Plenty of people pull the big bunkhouse trailers with half ton trucks.. it can be done.. you just have to be smart about how you load and drive it.... and pray for a nice tailwind. :-)

We pulled a 36' TT with a F250 6.7 for around 20K miles. WD hitch, air bags and sway bar set up dialed in. Still had some scary moments with cross winds, passed by simi trailers, mountain passes, etc. No way I would ever try an even bigger trailer with a 1/2 ton truck. Just seems like a bad idea all around.

That's cute - make up for lack of experience by getting a bigger truck. Experience shows the opposite is actually true. It's the newbies that show up in the RV park with an overloaded TT on a half ton truck that we all get good entertainment from watching them try to park that mess. They dynamics of pulling a travel trailer are unique and really don't compare to anything else.

Need to plan for 20% of the LOADED trailer weight to be on the hitch to be safe and minimize sway. With a 37' TT, that will max out your payload rating even on a 3/4 ton truck by the time you add people, coolers, bags, etc. You'd be surprised how fast the payload weight adds up and goes over the rating. Payload ratings are kinda BS anyway but that's not how lawyers see it. I certainly wouldn't feel comfortable being close to 2X payload weight rating on a 1/2 ton even with air bags, WD hitch, etc.

But, yeah - find some stuff on the internet that makes this bad idea seem slightly better. If you don't want a 3/4 ton, start looking at smaller trailers. Lots of true 1/2 ton towable trailers out there and you might find a smaller trailer is more fun anyway. You'll get into more camp spots as your options are really limited once you go over 25-30'. Our first TT was 16' and we still kinda miss that one because it was so simple and a lot of fun.

I'll one up y'all on towing a 30'+ 7000# + with an F150. My towing experience has already been stated. Be careful all you Nannie's don't have a heart attack when looking.

Experience and proper setup is everything. I pulled that thing almost 10,000 miles with the Expy. Still have the same transmission and have had no issues. It has 150k miles on it now.

The answer is not always F250 minimum.


ETA: I'll miss parking the camper with the Expy. People were always amazed that I could get it backed into a spot in one shot. The short wheelbase and awesome turning radius were clutch. Now im on the opposite end of the spectrum with a super crew F150 and 6.5' bed.

ChoppinDs40 said:

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I've read that too. I also read some people put airbags for just a little more cushion the back.

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That is why I used them on the old truck. But do not have them on my newer truck.

texags08 said:

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I'll one up y'all on towing a 30'+ 7000# + with an F150. My towing experience has already been stated. Be careful all you Nannie's don't have a heart attack when looking.

Experience and proper setup is everything. I pulled that thing almost 10,000 miles with the Expy. Still have the same transmission and have had no issues. It has 150k miles on it now.

The answer is not always F250 minimum.

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True for 30' and 7000# F150 or similar capabilities works fine as you describe. But OP is asking about 37' and 9000#. Could he do it yes, should he do it is what is up for debate.

D&C 2002 said:

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We pulled a 36' TT with a F250 6.7 for around 20K miles. WD hitch, air bags and sway bar set up dialed in. Still had some scary moments with cross winds, passed by simi trailers, mountain passes, etc. No way I would ever try an even bigger trailer with a 1/2 ton truck. Just seems like a bad idea all around.

That's cute - make up for lack of experience by getting a bigger truck. Experience shows the opposite is actually true. It's the newbies that show up in the RV park with an overloaded TT on a half ton truck that we all get good entertainment from watching them try to park that mess. They dynamics of pulling a travel trailer are unique and really don't compare to anything else.

Need to plan for 20% of the LOADED trailer weight to be on the hitch to be safe and minimize sway. With a 37' TT, that will max out your payload rating even on a 3/4 ton truck by the time you add people, coolers, bags, etc. You'd be surprised how fast the payload weight adds up and goes over the rating. Payload ratings are kinda BS anyway but that's not how lawyers see it. I certainly wouldn't feel comfortable being close to 2X payload weight rating on a 1/2 ton even with air bags, WD hitch, etc.

But, yeah - find some stuff on the internet that makes this bad idea seem slightly better. If you don't want a 3/4 ton, start looking at smaller trailers. Lots of true 1/2 ton towable trailers out there and you might find a smaller trailer is more fun anyway. You'll get into more camp spots as your options are really limited once you go over 25-30'. Our first TT was 16' and we still kinda miss that one because it was so simple and a lot of fun.

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Pro trailer backup assist brought to you by Ford, I get it backed in, perfect, first shot, every time

Also, when I mentioned 9,000lbs, that's loaded, not dry. 20% hitch weight seems like an overkill. And to your point, you wouldn't even be able to "safely" do that with a 3/4ton and added payload.

OP… I've got the same truck. The minimum additions would be a good WD hitch with sway control (not all WD hitches include sway control) and either airbags or the Roadmaster Active Suspension. I opted with the Roadmasters. Additional suggestions would be E rated tires. Optional luxuries would be an upgraded transmission cooler and upgraded brakes.

My advice would be to weigh your current setup dry and then loaded to figure out how much weight your truly adding to any trailer you look at. Also, remember that not all loaded weight is equal. Different trailer designs concentrate the weight in different areas. Try to get one that distributes most of the weight on the trailer axles. When pulling try to minimize your "moving weight" meaning weight that shifts when driving, like your tanks.

TopFlightReject said:

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Will just add this..

In the end a 34-37' trailer is just a big ass wind sail riding behind you.. I dont think no matter what WDH you use or anything is going to stop the suck and blow of a passing 18 wheeler.

I've conditioned myself to do 65mph in the right lane and hug the shoulder anytime something bigger than an econovan rolls by. Plenty of people pull the big bunkhouse trailers with half ton trucks.. it can be done.. you just have to be smart about how you load and drive it.... and pray for a nice tailwind. :-)

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Definitely experienced this and I even do that pulling our tailgate trailer. I feel you should always be cautious with weather, around semis, lots of traffic, mountain passes, etc. I'm a generally very alert and defensive driver. Passing a semi? Leave plenty of room, wait for a good window, plenty of visibility and hold on tight for those 30-45 seconds or so.

Semi coming up on you? Do the same thing.

I get mad as hell when I'm cruising on the interstate and see someone hauling ass pulling a TT. I've been passed on 35 by a guy pulling a 5th wheel going 85. Thing was swinging around all over the place in the back. I get you want to get home on a Sunday but Jesus dude.

You can safely exceed your payload rating. As I mentioned, those ratings are mostly BS. Look up how they do the test and arrive at the number. Use the payload rating as a baseline and make a decision on how far you are willing to exceed that number. I know for certain I was over my payload rating with the F250/36' TT setup we had but I never felt like I was doing something unsafe. I would not have been comfortable putting that load on the back of a 1/2 ton.

The 20% of total loaded weight on the tongue is a good starting point. You may be able to back that down to 15% but it will just take some experimentation. The more weight you have on your tongue the more stable it will be in cross winds and when dealing with 18 wheelers. So many variables and you don't want to find out the hard way that you are too light on the tongue. The length of that trailer means you will have your hands full but putting more weight forward might help you minimize sway.

Seems like you came in with your mind made up and you're more looking for confirmation that you can pull the trailer you want with the truck you have. Sure, you can but you're probably going to hear the majority of experienced RVers tell you they wouldn't and a few that say they do it all the time. I'm clearly in the "I wouldn't do that" camp. My suggestion is to keep the truck you have and look at a smaller trailer for lots of reasons.

Pulling 8-9k in the hill country just for a short trip from the feed store to the lease gives me white knuckles in my 150. But then again I have the 2.7 boost.