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Lawn Weed Control

6,799 Views | 25 Replies | Last: 3 yr ago by trip98
joerobert_pete06
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For the lawn care gurus:

This year it seems like my weeds have gotten out of control and doubled in the amount of what I saw last year. I put down pre-emergent early spring but still no improvement this year. The fertilizer I am putting down now just seems to be making the weeds thicker. What should be my next course of action during the off season? Should I cut the grass short when my Bermuda goes dormant, lay rye and hope that thins out the weeds?
Saltwater Assassin
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I miss old school Roundup
tlh3842
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Granular pre emergent has to be put out sooner than early spring, I think Randy Lemmon schedule shows an initial application the November beforehand. Not sure where you're located but I think that's the best step for next year.
B-1 83
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What weeds do you have? Taking broadleaf weeds out of Bermuda is child's play. Grassy weeds must be approached delicately…….
Being in TexAgs jail changes a man……..no, not really
DargelSkout
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Put your pre-emergent out in January so it has time to get into the soil before the weeds emerge in the spring.

I would advise against rye if you want you bermuda grass looking good right now. The rye will look great in the winter and spring. However, when it dies in late spring/early summer it will leave a void that the Bermuda grass has to fill in.

As said above, broadleaf weeds are easy to control. Look for Trimec Southern or Speedzone Southern. If its grassy weeds or a little of everything you can try Celsius or Tribute Total. Depending on the weeds you will likely need two applications this late in the season.
TMfrisco
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joerobert_pete06 said:

For the lawn care gurus:

This year it seems like my weeds have gotten out of control and doubled in the amount of what I saw last year. I put down pre-emergent early spring but still no improvement this year. The fertilizer I am putting down now just seems to be making the weeds thicker. What should be my next course of action during the off season? Should I cut the grass short when my Bermuda goes dormant, lay rye and hope that thins out the weeds?
Where are you?
AGGIE WH08P
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Put our your pre's 3-4x a year. Here's what I do with granular dimension in DFW. Just switched to liquid barricade and only did it 2x, this year cause it was supposed to last 6 months. Will probably do the barricade 3x.

Sept - most important one for controlling fall poa annua
Dec
March - targeting spring weeds that are about to germinate.
June.
joerobert_pete06
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TMfrisco said:

joerobert_pete06 said:

For the lawn care gurus:

This year it seems like my weeds have gotten out of control and doubled in the amount of what I saw last year. I put down pre-emergent early spring but still no improvement this year. The fertilizer I am putting down now just seems to be making the weeds thicker. What should be my next course of action during the off season? Should I cut the grass short when my Bermuda goes dormant, lay rye and hope that thins out the weeds?
Where are you?


I'm in Houston and I have a little bit of everything: crabgrass, spurge, Dallisgrass, clovers, nutsedge…. Too many to list really
joerobert_pete06
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So I'm assuming there is nothing I can do mid summer. I'm keeping the grass short, cutting once a week so it's not as noticeable
joerobert_pete06
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Three photos showing what I've got as far as weeds. I want to rip the entire lawn up and start over.

Regarding preemergent, I used prodiamine in liquid form so I will triple that up come November


trip98
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I live in Humble.....and while I'm not an expert I have always cared for my own yard including mow, etc. My yard ain't perfect but it's pretty darn good and neighbors regularly ask what I do for it. here's my advice:

1) the best weed preventer is a good, thick lawn....to help with this in summer cut it HIGHER. This makes best use of water and keeps soil moist to allow roots to grow and grass to spread easier

2) you must fertilize 3-4x per year. In summer a great fertilizer is an organic one b/c it won't burn. I've found the organics to really make my yard boom during the most stressful part of the year for grass

3) pre-emerge 4x per year. Like other poster said I put Barricade granules down March, June, September, and December

4) weeds such as nutsedge and crabgrass are REALLY difficult. To get them under control it is best to apply specific treatments for them and usually you have to reapply. For Nutsedge I have found the Ortho Nutsedge Killer from big box stores to be effective. You must hit the sedge and then about 4 weeks later hit it again. Do NOT do this when it's 90+ outside. Another product to use is SedgeHammer that is available at smaller garden centers and is more expensive. I've had equal success with this product. For Crabgrass I found Crabgrass Killer at boutique garden center and it works awesome. It's a powder and smells like cinammon. This can easily burn your grass so its best for spot treatment. You have to wet the grass to get this product to stick and activate. The best thing is to fluff up the crabgrass and put a paper towel under it. Spray it with water that includes a bonding agent. Sprinkle the crabgrass killer on and then mist with the water spray again to activate. Crabrass will show signs of dying in 24-48 hours. This also works well on Virginia Buttonweed.

5) Always use a bonding agent when applying liquid treatments. You can use dawn dish soap or you can buy spreader sticker from Hi Yield (again likely only available at gaden centers). A little of this goes a long ways!!
El_duderino
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Certainty/Celsius. There's no temperature restrictions so you can use them even if it's over 100 degrees. Certainty will smoke the sedge and Celsius takes care of broadleaf. That spurge in the last pic probably won't be killed, but spring pre emergent should prevent it.

Please don't overseed with rye or triple the pre emergent amount. I'd suggest an additional pre emergent that is a different mode of action than prodiamine. I added a second MOA and noticed a drastic improvement.
Ezra Brooks
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Celsius is EXPENSIVE. I haven't used it because I'm too cheap.

MSM (which Celsius contains) is a lot more affordable. I think this will help you a lot. I've had some of what you are showing in your pictures and I bought a product called "Martin's Top-Shot" which contain two little viles of MSM - I was astounded at just how little was needed. I've since bought a full bottle of MSM but haven't mixed any up yet.

SedgeHammer will take care of the Kylinga in your picture.

There is a product called "Blindside" which has a combo of the MSM and the SedgeHammer - but it expensive as well.
trip98
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oh yeah, certainly do NOT overseed with Rye. The transition in the spring/summer from rye to regular grass requires PERFECT conditions in order for your yard to make a good looking transition. We get perfect conditions for that once every 10 years.
Picard
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You need to go about this using the Kamala Harris method.

Get on your hands and knees and get to work!
chris1515
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I'm trying to get my St Augustine to spread to the back yard and choke out the weeds. It's done that in the front!
joerobert_pete06
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Thanks guys, I'll get to work

Also I'm fertilizing like crazy trying to thicken the lawn but it seems like the weeds are benefiting the most. Also if I let it grow, all I'll be cutting are weeds but I'll give it a shot
El_duderino
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Number 1 would be for St Augustine. OP with Bermuda would be better off cutting shorter and that's when it really spreads and chokes things out.
JohnLA762
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You might take a soil sample and submit it to A&M. The one factor that is largely overlooked is soil pH. I had similar problems and found out my soil pH was too low. I have been applying lime for the last 2 years and have really made significant progress. Might be worth a look.
trip98
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El_duderino said:

Number 1 would be for St Augustine. OP with Bermuda would be better off cutting shorter and that's when it really spreads and chokes things out.

Yes true that.... Missed that part... Reading comprehension on a bachelor night not so good !
Mr_Houston
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Your picture 1 is Doveweed or Virginia buttonweed. You won't know which until it flowers. It's a tough weed to kill. It took over my backyard last year.

They say Celsius is best, but that is on St. Augustine.
bam02
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trip98 said:

El_duderino said:

Number 1 would be for St Augustine. OP with Bermuda would be better off cutting shorter and that's when it really spreads and chokes things out.

Yes true that.... Missed that part... Reading comprehension on a bachelor night not so good !


I found your post very informative. Thanks for pausing The Bachelor to post.
JSKolache
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Google Randy Lemmon Schedule. Buy the stuff at Ace hardware.
BowSowy
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joerobert_pete06 said:


Anyone know what this weed is (the tall one sticking up, maybe its a grass)? I have this popping up all over my front lawn and it grows way faster than my St Augustine. Would love to know how to get rid of it.
Funky Winkerbean
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El_duderino said:

Number 1 would be for St Augustine. OP with Bermuda would be better off cutting shorter and that's when it really spreads and chokes things out.
This is not true. Bermuda will not "choke out" weeds. Some weeds won't tolerate being mowed short so that is what controls them. The weeds in the picture are prime examples of what can tolerate low mowing heights.
trip98
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bam02 said:

trip98 said:

El_duderino said:

Number 1 would be for St Augustine. OP with Bermuda would be better off cutting shorter and that's when it really spreads and chokes things out.

Yes true that.... Missed that part... Reading comprehension on a bachelor night not so good !


I found your post very informative. Thanks for pausing The Bachelor to post.


You're welcome.. and fwiw i wasnt watching the show... Wife and son were out of town so was living the life!
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