Jantz will be a one stop shop for the hobbyist. you can get your glue, pins, g10 for liner, files, drill bit (go carbide), as well as blanks ready for handles. They also have steel ready to forge or shape if you are going that route.
if you get stainless that needs to be hardened, you will need a kiln or send it off to get it hardened. As well it will not really be forgeable for the average bladesmith.
if you are going to do damascus, most likely you will have to at least touch up sand marks from putting on the handle. you use ferric chloride for that. And what ever you do stay away from cheap paki Damascus, it is made for crap steel and will never last. if the price of Damascus seems like an unbelievable deal it probably is.
when it comes to the handle material i strongly suggest getting stabilized material. there are places that will stabilize your wood for you. this is a process of using a vacuum and a resin called 'cactus juice" to soak into the wood. it sand so much better, but most importantly it does not swell on you when it gets wet from washing. I will only use mesquite unstablized now a days.
if you are going to do stock removal it can be done with files, but have fun with that. Alec steel has some videos on his channel that he makes a knife from start to finish with just handle tools. a grind is the biggest game changer in the knife shop. Most use a 2x72 but a harbor freight 1x24 can work and combat abrasives has quality belt in that size. Also some knife maker leave scratch marks in the blade, i personally take that extra step and hand sand every thing to at least up to 800 grit. (just my preference)
also if you are going to salvage steel for knives know that the least expensive part of the knife is the steel. and you mystery steel does funny stuff. do you self a favor and start with a good quality steel (80crv2 is my go to). you can buy a piece for stock from jantz that will make 2-3 knives for $18. Nothing is worse than spending the time and money on $5-$12 a piece for belts, $30-$45 for handle material, nice pins and had everything scratch free and the tip breaks off because you made it from a case hardened file that never was going to be hardenable. i know lots of people start with that salvaged of material hell i did as well, But had i know what i do now some of my first knives would still be in use. I do under stand that some steel will work and some steel might have some nostalgia to it. just giving some pointers.

