I have one zone that will work properly half the time and then other times the heads just gurgle water out and don't pop up. I've replaced the solenoid, valve internals, checked wiring with a multimeter, and still can't figure out the problem. Any ideas of where to look next? It's never done this before, and I believe only started after replacing 3 of the sprinkler heads in the zone. I don't know for sure since I had to also replace my 20 year old controller before even being able to test the system after being off all winter

You replaced the heads, did you go with the same exact nozzles? If you used variable arc nozzles they use 1.5x or more the water of a fixed arc. Might be your issue

Try manually turning on the valve. This should tell you if you have a controller issue.

Stayed with rotors. I've now discovered that I can manually run the zone from the controller and it will work properly every other time

I've tried opening up at the solenoid and nothing. This is a brand new controller too

It sounds like a valve issue. If you think the valve is operating correctly, look for a leak in your piping.

Even though I replaced the solenoid and all internals? The valve was spotless when I opened up the top to look for debris. It will turn on every time if I don't tighten the solenoid all the way

El_duderino said:

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Even though I replaced the solenoid and all internals? The valve was spotless when I opened up the top to look for debris. It will turn on every time if I don't tighten the solenoid all the way

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That is your problem. You are over tightening. That solenoid turns to open the valve. If it is over tight it will not turn correctly.

CTGilley said:

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El_duderino said:

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Even though I replaced the solenoid and all internals? The valve was spotless when I opened up the top to look for debris. It will turn on every time if I don't tighten the solenoid all the way

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That is your problem. You are over tightening. That solenoid turns to open the valve. If it is over tight it will not turn correctly.

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Yep. If you can't turn it on manually, you have it too tight

Didn't resolve the issue unfortunately. Guess I'll just have to replace the entire valve, but don't know why it's not working if the old valve was clean and even the old solenoid still tested good.

I didn't think anything of it, but I have 2 white (common wires) in the valve box for some reason and that isn't normal from my google search

El_duderino said:

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Didn't resolve the issue unfortunately. Guess I'll just have to replace the entire valve, but don't know why it's not working if the old valve was clean and even the old solenoid still tested good.

I didn't think anything of it, but I have 2 white (common wires) in the valve box for some reason and that isn't normal from my google search

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Color doesn't necessarily mean anything.

I figured that. I have one red (zone wire) and two white wires. The common wire at the controller is white. Didn't know what the extra white wire is for. Was trying to avoid digging in this black gumbo again to replace the valve entirely

You splice in 2 white wires because the white is your common and it is a chain that connects all of your valves. When each zone valve is wired in, the white wire is cut and spliced in, making 2 white wires at each valve. The zone valves are direct from valve to controller so there will only be 1.

Thanks. That explains the wiring then.

El_duderino said:

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Didn't resolve the issue unfortunately. Guess I'll just have to replace the entire valve, but don't know why it's not working if the old valve was clean and even the old solenoid still tested good.

I didn't think anything of it, but I have 2 white (common wires) in the valve box for some reason and that isn't normal from my google search

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I have had to do that several times. My solenoids always test good but will not turn. Replacing all the internals normally works but not always. Did you clean the jet that goes to the solenoid? It will be clogged and you will not be able to see it.

Yes I cleaned it out with a small piece of wire a couple times. It was a tiny little hole under the solenoid after I removed the cap

Any other ideas or advice? Issue is now happening on a second zone where it'll run every other time when turning on manually at the controller. Only started on this second zone after replacing 3 leaking rotors with new rotors. I'm thinking that's just bad timing since i've replaced 2 rotors in this zone previously with no issues. Could it be a controller issue? I have a new rainbird controller since my old hunter controller seemingly took a dump over the winter.

Very odd to have intermittent operation of your valve and to get any water when the station "doesn't work".
Do you have a Master Valve?
What station # is the one that doesn't work? Do the valves after it work?

if your problem is on zone 2, swap the wires between zones 2 and 3. If the problem doesn't move to zone 3, you know for a fact it's not the controller. (doubtful it is in any case, but it's an easy way to verify)

No master valve as far as I know. Just 6 inline valves for each zone. It's zone 3 and 5 that are giving me trouble. Every other zone works just fine. This is a picture of zone 5 valve before I dug some dirt out to reach the solenoid. It was having the same low pressure issue even when opening the solenoid by hand. I don't know how it ever worked in the first place like that.

Yeah the problem just stays with the zones that are having issues no matter what zone I wire them to on the controller and all other zones work perfectly. I ordered a hunter hydrawise anyways just in case it's the controller for some weird reason.

Do you have a volt meter? If so check and make sure you are sending 24 volts plus or minus each time. If it is 24 one time and 14 next it is controller. I like to check at screw in controller and at valve wiring. That will tell
You if it is electrical issue or actual mechanical at electric valve.

I can re-test the first bad zone and test the second one tomorrow. The original broken zone tested fine on everything

I'm gonna guess you have a common wire issue. Are Zone 3 and 5 near each other - like the common goes from 3 to 5 without going to zone 4?

It is probably worth it to go buy some wire. Disconnect the common at your controller and run a piece of wire from from that common terminal to the common on your solenoid. Turn on that zone and see what happens. If you still have the problem, put your original common back together and run a wire straight from the controller (Zone 3 terminal) to the hot wire on your solenoid. If either of these solves your issue, then you have an intermittent short somewhere. At that point you can try to check your wires at any place you might think you have gotten a nick in the wire. Or, you can run new wire from your controller to the valve. Or, hire an irrigation company with a wire/fault locator to find the bad spot.
If the wire above ground fixes your problem, start with checking all your wire connections - common from zone 2 to 3, etc.
If the direct wire doesn't fix your issue, then you have to have a valve issue or something in your line, but I am betting on a bad wire somewhere.

Thanks, I have a hunter hydrawise controller delivered tomorrow and it can check for wiring faults as well. The 2 bad zones are on complete ends of the yard

Are the zones that are giving you problems the same zones in which you changed rotors?

If so, you have debris (dirt) in the valves somewhere. Surprised they aren't just sticking open.

Yes. The first problem zone I think I replaced 3 or 4 of 6 and the second zone I replaced 3 of 7 the day it started messing up, but had previously replaced 2 others with no issue. When you say debris in the valve, should I open the zone valves and clean them out? I have one new diaphragm I can use as well for one of the valves.

I replaced the diaphragm on the broken zone 3 and that appears to have resolved the issue. The old diaphragm was falling apart inside the valve

Sorry for the wiring advice, but you stated earlier that your valve was "spotless" inside and you had replaced the "internals". I took this to mean you had replaced the diaphragm.

No worries. I was going to test wiring like you suggested to rule everything out. It's been a mess finding the correct zones as they were all buried throughout the yard and I was replacing the internals on the wrong valve originally. Replacing the diaphragm on the correct zone valve resolved my issue.