I'm wanting to get a table saw and saw that Lowe's has a 10" Metabo (Hitachi) table saw with the portable stand on sale bringing it to about $330. I have a Dewalt miter saw and had been leaning with going with that to keep the same brand but wanted to get some opinions before purchasing. Should I pull the trigger or do you guys have any other recommendations on small/entry level table saws? I don't have a huge garage so the collapsible/wheeled stand is a big plus.

Where you located? I bought this one a few years back, put a cover on it, and have never cut a piece of wood with it. I'll make someone a deal in Cypress, Tx.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-10-in-Carbide-Tipped-Blade-15-Amp-Portable-Table-Saw/50056271

Have you gone over the Black Friday ads yet? Do so first if not.

Lots of folks in the woodworking community like the Dewalt job site saw. R/woodworking is covered up with folks that built full infeed/outfeed tables around them.

I'm in Houston. How much to take it off your hands and help clear up some garage space?

spaceag07 said:

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Lots of folks in the woodworking community like the Dewalt job site saw. R/woodworking is covered up with folks that built full infeed/outfeed tables around them.

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This.

The table saw will be such a crucial tool for any woodworking, and is so versatile. Don't skimp here. Get the best saw you can afford.

streetfighter2012 said:

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I'm in Houston. How much to take it off your hands and help clear up some garage space?

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Do what you can to make this happen. I see now he is selling the Dewalt 10". Great saw!

I went through your same dilemma several years ago, and was looking to save a little money. I ultimately decided to go with the Dewalt portable table saw with the stand. Never have regretted it. I've built so many different jigs for it, and it is a very versatile and reliable saw. The Dewalt fence is probably my favorite part of it. Worth every penny.

$320
j.texags at Gmail

I've owned the Dewalt job site saw for 8 years. It's gotten me through lots DIY projects. You really do need something with a larger table if you're planning to regularly cut 4'x8' sheets.

I would be failing OB tradition if I didn't suggest something outside your budget. Here's the brand you really need:
https://www.sawstop.com/build#build-price/jobsite-saw/jobsite-saw

It all depends on what you're going to be cutting. If you're going to rip or crosscut 4x8 sheets of plywood you will be disappointed with a table top. A lot of work and dangerous to boot. Like any other tool that comes in a variety of sizes and capacities, think about what it will be used for the most and buy a sizze or two larger. About 20 years ago I bit the bullet and bought a Powermatic. 5hp, 220v, 50 inch rip capacity.....it hasn't met the piece of wood it can't cut and nary a whimper

Look for used Delta or Rigid contractor saws as they are in the same ballpark price wise.

Had a neighbor who was moving and he gifted me a Ridgid 10" table saw with the rolling stand ($100-150 bucks by itself). I have done a ton of DIY projects with it and it takes up very little space. I'd recommend it all day long. I read a review of all the contractor/jobsite saws and I think the Ridgid was middle of the pack, but its cart was number one; can't compare the others but it is fantastic.

Prior to that I bought a house with a wood shop already in it with a Jet 12" cabinetmaker-grade table saw, and its power and capabilities really spoiled me. I say this only because the Ridgid saw is totally adequate for my needs. Have no problem ripping 4"-thick boards all day long to make trim pieces.

Would probably also agree that you should get what you can afford. That guy's Dewalt above sounds like a steal though. Spend the extra money on blades, dado sets, wood, etc.

I've got the Dewalt 7491 and love it for the portability. I have a tight 2 car garage that I still fit a full sized truck and my wife's car in almost every night, so I'm able to roll the saw in an out when I need it. Have used it on everything from semi-fine furniture to formwork for concrete. I take good care of it, maintain it, wax the composite table regularly, keep a fresh blade, and made a quality cross-cut sled for it. The only downside is the size of the table and the noise level. The table size can be solved with an out feed setup, the noise just necessitates hearing protection that you should be wearing in the first place.

And anyone doing regular sheet good processing is going to buy a track saw or one of the fancy circ saw guides anyway.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-10-in-Carbide-Tipped-Blade-15-Amp-Portable-Table-Saw/50040968

I have the DeWalt jobsite saw with the rolling stand. I love it, but ripping sheet goods is a PITA. If you're ripping dimensional stuff it's not bad. If you're doing miters or running a sled, it's great. I love the rack and pinion fence, which is getting copied now. And like the large arbor and ability to use stacked dado blades. Biggest drawback is that the miter gauge that comes with it sucks. There's too much play in it for me, and it has no fence, but that's what after market and custom jigs are for. The rolling stand is superb. It's very well put together and well thought out.

Built this for my daughter using it with a sled I made and a Diablo dado set:

Came out pretty nice and was pretty easy. Did all of the cutting on the table saw except some dados that had to be routed for the top and bottom.

If you're ripping sheet goods, look into a track saw and/or straight edge guide. It's just easier to set up and get decent long cuts. Track saw is best, but my $20 50"/100" straight edge gets the job done at a fraction of the price when I'm just rough cutting pieces from a sheet.

Don't buy anything hitachi.

I bought the Dewalt portable with the fold out legs and wheels. Does a great job and easily folds up and rolls out of the way, no lifting required.

I have the hitachi I think you're talking about and love it. This saw was essentially my first non Dewalt power tool. I have all dewalt (circular saw, jig saw, miter saw, drills/impacts, reciprocating saw, router, etc.) Went with the Hitachi because it was on sale at the time and I actually started having issues with my dewalt miter saw 1 year after purchase so figured I'd give it a shot. I really wanted an actual non portable table saw, but I just do not have the room for that. It's not too bad ripping full sheets of plywood. I do it by myself multiple times a year, you just need to make sure you have some other table or stand to hold other ends as needed. Now if you're doing it every day that's a different story, but for the average household a portable version works just fine

ABATTBQ11 said:

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I have the DeWalt jobsite saw with the rolling stand. I love it, but ripping sheet goods is a PITA. If you're ripping dimensional stuff it's not bad. If you're doing miters or running a sled, it's great. I love the rack and pinion fence, which is getting copied now. And like the large arbor and ability to use stacked dado blades. Biggest drawback is that the miter gauge that comes with it sucks. There's too much play in it for me, and it has no fence, but that's what after market and custom jigs are for. The rolling stand is superb. It's very well put together and well thought out.

Built this for my daughter using it with a sled I made and a Diablo dado set:

Came out pretty nice and was pretty easy. Did all of the cutting on the table saw except some dados that had to be routed for the top and bottom.

If you're ripping sheet goods, look into a track saw and/or straight edge guide. It's just easier to set up and get decent long cuts. Track saw is best, but my $20 50"/100" straight edge gets the job done at a fraction of the price when I'm just rough cutting pieces from a sheet.

Don't buy anything hitachi.

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Nice work.

yes, my wood track guide works great for breaking a 4x8 sheet down and much cheaper than a track saw. Someday I'll get one but I have an old Sears 10" contractor saw that I recently completely disassembled and rebuilt and works almost like new. With out feed work top I can cut large sheets easily, so spending my money on other upgrades.

A hand made wood track guide is simple and very reliable for making straight accurate cuts for a fraction of the cost until you can/need to upgrade.

If you have space for a full cabinet saw they are great....I've had a couple in my garage over the years. I make do now with a portable Dewalt tabletop and a Festool track saw.

Thanks! Wanting to do a lot more, but I need to finish my router table first. Need to build a fence, and then I'm good to go. Spending all the money I haven't spent on a track saw on that right now.

ABATTBQ11 said:

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Thanks! Wanting to do a lot more, but I need to finish my router table first. Need to build a fence, and then I'm good to go. Spending all the money I haven't spent on a track saw on that right now.

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Router table is on my short list too. Need to finish refurbishing a sears 4' jointer also.

Mr. AGSPRT04 said:

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I've owned the Dewalt job site saw for 8 years. It's gotten me through lots DIY projects. You really do need something with a larger table if you're planning to regularly cut 4'x8' sheets.

I would be failing OB tradition if I didn't suggest something outside your budget. Here's the brand you really need:
https://www.sawstop.com/build#build-price/jobsite-saw/jobsite-saw

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As much as I shutter at the price, just think about your copay for an ER visit, not to mention if you live in BCS, there is only one hand surgeon who takes call and that is only 15-20 days a month, so figure in a 1:3 odds of a helicopter ride on top of an ER visit and surgery and months to years of rehab, possibly losing a finger or hand....


Just sayin....

AgCWby90CS said:

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ABATTBQ11 said:

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Thanks! Wanting to do a lot more, but I need to finish my router table first. Need to build a fence, and then I'm good to go. Spending all the money I haven't spent on a track saw on that right now.

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Router table is on my short list too. Need to finish refurbishing a sears 4' jointer also.

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That is probably my next major purchase, but trying to decide between 6" and 8" bench top (cabinet/full size is just to expensive) and whether I'll tell the wife how much it costs. Not sure I'd refurbish one unless the tables and fence were still in perfect shape. They need to be milled otherwise, and at that point you might as well just buy new unless there's sentimental value.

ABATTBQ11 said:

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AgCWby90CS said:

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ABATTBQ11 said:

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Thanks! Wanting to do a lot more, but I need to finish my router table first. Need to build a fence, and then I'm good to go. Spending all the money I haven't spent on a track saw on that right now.

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Router table is on my short list too. Need to finish refurbishing a sears 4' jointer also.

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That is probably my next major purchase, but trying to decide between 6" and 8" bench top (cabinet/full size is just to expensive) and whether I'll tell the wife how much it costs. Not sure I'd refurbish one unless the tables and fence were still in perfect shape. They need to be milled otherwise, and at that point you might as well just buy new unless there's sentimental value.

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It's in really good shape, hadn't been used in a long time when I got it and really just needs the table and fence sanded and waxed, plus sharpening or replacing blades. Probably will weld a stand for it, so basically like a cabinet model. Bandsaw is my next major purchase since I got a drill press earlier this year.

A bit off topic, but OP needs to weigh where his interest lay. a cabinet saw, i.e. sawstop may not be the highest need. For me the drill press was next and now a band saw. My table saw does everything I need it to do and the jointer is in very good shape. Sure I would like to have a new 8' jointer but it doesn't fit with my other needs and direction at this time.

I have one of these and it's fairly portable. I've used it quiet a bit over the past couple of years and found it to be reasonable quality and plenty powerful for ripping pine siding or plywood. It's a great price considering the stand is included and built into the saw which makes it more stable IMO.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-10-in-Carbide-tipped-Blade-15-Amp-Portable-Table-Saw/1000875372

Thanks for the info everyone. Picking up the Dewalt saw from VoreMoar.

That math has crossed my mind more than once. When I get a bigger place and have the opportunity to upgrade my "workshop", I'm definitely investing in one.

For those who have not seen it before, fast forward to the 3:00mark.

AgCWby90CS said:

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ABATTBQ11 said:

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AgCWby90CS said:

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ABATTBQ11 said:

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Thanks! Wanting to do a lot more, but I need to finish my router table first. Need to build a fence, and then I'm good to go. Spending all the money I haven't spent on a track saw on that right now.

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Router table is on my short list too. Need to finish refurbishing a sears 4' jointer also.

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That is probably my next major purchase, but trying to decide between 6" and 8" bench top (cabinet/full size is just to expensive) and whether I'll tell the wife how much it costs. Not sure I'd refurbish one unless the tables and fence were still in perfect shape. They need to be milled otherwise, and at that point you might as well just buy new unless there's sentimental value.

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It's in really good shape, hadn't been used in a long time when I got it and really just needs the table and fence sanded and waxed, plus sharpening or replacing blades. Probably will weld a stand for it, so basically like a cabinet model. Bandsaw is my next major purchase since I got a drill press earlier this year.

A bit off topic, but OP needs to weigh where his interest lay. a cabinet saw, i.e. sawstop may not be the highest need. For me the drill press was next and now a band saw. My table saw does everything I need it to do and the jointer is in very good shape. Sure I would like to have a new 8' jointer but it doesn't fit with my other needs and direction at this time.

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What size bandsaw are you looking for ? I have a gently used Jet JWBS 16 with 8 bands available. PM me if interested. I never saw the need for a joiner if you have a well made cabinet saw. I've used mine with a fine tooth carbide blade and have had no problems. Even if your blade is a tad off 90 degrees you just mark and flip every other board and the two match perfectly. I can see one if you are book matching something. I had one I inherited from Pop that just took up space so I got rid of it.

Rattler12 said:

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AgCWby90CS said:

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ABATTBQ11 said:

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AgCWby90CS said:

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ABATTBQ11 said:

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Thanks! Wanting to do a lot more, but I need to finish my router table first. Need to build a fence, and then I'm good to go. Spending all the money I haven't spent on a track saw on that right now.

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Router table is on my short list too. Need to finish refurbishing a sears 4' jointer also.

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That is probably my next major purchase, but trying to decide between 6" and 8" bench top (cabinet/full size is just to expensive) and whether I'll tell the wife how much it costs. Not sure I'd refurbish one unless the tables and fence were still in perfect shape. They need to be milled otherwise, and at that point you might as well just buy new unless there's sentimental value.

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It's in really good shape, hadn't been used in a long time when I got it and really just needs the table and fence sanded and waxed, plus sharpening or replacing blades. Probably will weld a stand for it, so basically like a cabinet model. Bandsaw is my next major purchase since I got a drill press earlier this year.

A bit off topic, but OP needs to weigh where his interest lay. a cabinet saw, i.e. sawstop may not be the highest need. For me the drill press was next and now a band saw. My table saw does everything I need it to do and the jointer is in very good shape. Sure I would like to have a new 8' jointer but it doesn't fit with my other needs and direction at this time.

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What size bandsaw are you looking for ? I have a gently used Jet JWBS 16 with 8 bands available. PM me if interested. I never saw the need for a joiner if you have a well made cabinet saw. I've used mine with a fine tooth carbide blade and have had no problems. Even if your blade is a tad off 90 degrees you just mark and flip every other board and the two match perfectly. I can see one if you are book matching something. I had one I inherited from Pop that just took up space so I got rid of it.

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Joiner was too good a price not to pass up but I've used a table saw also for getting a straight edge. sending PM

Rattler12 said:

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AgCWby90CS said:

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ABATTBQ11 said:

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AgCWby90CS said:

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ABATTBQ11 said:

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Thanks! Wanting to do a lot more, but I need to finish my router table first. Need to build a fence, and then I'm good to go. Spending all the money I haven't spent on a track saw on that right now.

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Router table is on my short list too. Need to finish refurbishing a sears 4' jointer also.

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That is probably my next major purchase, but trying to decide between 6" and 8" bench top (cabinet/full size is just to expensive) and whether I'll tell the wife how much it costs. Not sure I'd refurbish one unless the tables and fence were still in perfect shape. They need to be milled otherwise, and at that point you might as well just buy new unless there's sentimental value.

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It's in really good shape, hadn't been used in a long time when I got it and really just needs the table and fence sanded and waxed, plus sharpening or replacing blades. Probably will weld a stand for it, so basically like a cabinet model. Bandsaw is my next major purchase since I got a drill press earlier this year.

A bit off topic, but OP needs to weigh where his interest lay. a cabinet saw, i.e. sawstop may not be the highest need. For me the drill press was next and now a band saw. My table saw does everything I need it to do and the jointer is in very good shape. Sure I would like to have a new 8' jointer but it doesn't fit with my other needs and direction at this time.

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What size bandsaw are you looking for ? I have a gently used Jet JWBS 16 with 8 bands available. PM me if interested. I never saw the need for a joiner if you have a well made cabinet saw. I've used mine with a fine tooth carbide blade and have had no problems. Even if your blade is a tad off 90 degrees you just mark and flip every other board and the two match perfectly. I can see one if you are book matching something. I had one I inherited from Pop that just took up space so I got rid of it.

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That's not what a jointer is for...

Jointers are for flattening boards, not squaring an edge to the face. Take a cupped board for instance. You can't remove the cup with a saw. It needs to be flattened. To work a cupped board, you run the concave side over the jointer with the grain until it is flat. Then with the flat side against the fence, run an edge over the jointer with the grain until it is flat also. This gives you two flat edges at 90* to each other.

Let the board sit for a couple of days. There's usually a little bit more moisture in the middle of the board, and since you just planed some off, you want to let it reacclimate.

If the board still has its flat faces, now you can run it through a planer and get it to the right thickness. You can't just run it through the planet first because the rollers will flatten the board and plane it evenly, leaving the cup. Once you have the desired thickness, run it through the table saw to get parallel edges. Trim the ends with a miter saw or on a cross cut sled if you need square ends.

You can do much the same with bows and twists, but no matter what you need to start on a jointer. With softer woods like pine to can get away with a lot of bending and forcing pieces "flat" and "straight" with clamps while they're gluing, but that doesn't work with hardwoods.

I'm pretty sure he was talking about straightening the edge of a board which can be done on a tablesaw. Getting rid of cups twists in the board can be done with a thickness planer using the proper sled and you can also flatten a board using a router jig. Of course to do these things the most efficiently you need a joiner but the joiner is a fairly limited use machine for its price and therefore a lot of people don't have it or feel they can afford it. There are workarounds to be able to do much the same thing that the joiner can do with other pieces of equipment that are more commonly used. You are right in what you say about the uses of a joiner.
Actually a track saw or straight edge and circular saw work very well in straightening and edge of a board.

Mr. AGSPRT04 said:

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That math has crossed my mind more than once. When I get a bigger place and have the opportunity to upgrade my "workshop", I'm definitely investing in one.

For those who have not seen it before, fast forward to the 3:00mark.

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If they were really certain of their product they wouldnt use a fake weiner. They'd use a real one...

Rattler12 said:

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AgCWby90CS said:

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What size bandsaw are you looking for ? I have a gently used Jet JWBS 16 with 8 bands available. PM me if interested. I never saw the need for a joiner if you have a well made cabinet saw. I've used mine with a fine tooth carbide blade and have had no problems. Even if your blade is a tad off 90 degrees you just mark and flip every other board and the two match perfectly. I can see one if you are book matching something. I had one I inherited from Pop that just took up space so I got rid of it.

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I may be interested. What are you asking?

AgCWby90CS said:

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I'm pretty sure he was talking about straightening the edge of a board which can be done on a tablesaw. Getting rid of cups twists in the board can be done with a thickness planer using the proper sled and you can also flatten a board using a router jig. Of course to do these things the most efficiently you need a joiner but the joiner is a fairly limited use machine for its price and therefore a lot of people don't have it or feel they can afford it. There are workarounds to be able to do much the same thing that the joiner can do with other pieces of equipment that are more commonly used. You are right in what you say about the uses of a joiner.
Actually a track saw or straight edge and circular saw work very well in straightening and edge of a board.

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I know. It just seemed like he thought that was the only use when it's really just secondary to face flattening.

Those are the exact reasons I don't have one now. It's a very expensive piece of equipment that only does one thing. It's a very important thing, but it's still only one thing. My biggest issue, personally, is the set up time.

I just don't have a lot of time to get everything out of the garage, set it up, work, and then put everything away. If I can get an hour or two I'm lucky, and setting up and tearing down eats a lot of that time. Usually by the time I'm set up and have started cutting, my wife is calling me in. With even a small 6" or 8" bench top jointer on a cart, I can start working almost immediately instead of taking the time to level out and secure every board before starting on it.

It can certainly be done, but it's a PITA.


ETA For really clean, straight edges I'll use a straight edge and router instead of a saw. A saw will get me close to my finish dimension, but a strait bit gives me a perfect edge without any tool marks. You can also shim the outfeed side of a router table fence to make it a sideways jointer and get a cleaner edge than a saw.

You probably already made your decision but that is a great price for a table saw. I have not used metabo personally but there is much less difference between the major brands in big box stores than what people want to believe. Since this is not tying you to a battery platform my recommendation would be to go for it and post pics of your projects.

ajolly said:

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Mr. AGSPRT04 said:

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That math has crossed my mind more than once. When I get a bigger place and have the opportunity to upgrade my "workshop", I'm definitely investing in one.

For those who have not seen it before, fast forward to the 3:00mark.

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If they were really certain of their product they wouldnt use a fake weiner. They'd use a real one...

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You're into some sick stuff, man.