I have a blind I inherited on a lease that needs rebuilding. I have started dismantling it taking notes and pictures on how it was assembled so I can put It back together. My question is there a better way to rebuild using existing frame.
1. It is a welded steel angle iron frame - wall panels are attached with nuts/bolts thru holes drilled in frame. Looks good to go back the same way but curious if better methods?

2. Corners were covered with flashing. Is that a good way to go back? Should I add in glue and silicone caulk etc?

3. Floor/Base- Haven't taken it apart yet but looks like it was 2"x4" runners and plywood floor and it was mounted on concrete deck blocks to keep it off the ground. I would like to put it on runners/skids to make it easier to move but not sure how to mount on bottom of frame and worried about extra weight.

4. Roof - Sloped roof originally flush mounted on front/back and small overhang on sides. Seems like an overhang all the way around would be better to protect edges of wall material and generally provide a little rain protection? Is there some good reason for keeping flush mount front/back? Inside roof support looks like an after thought, any better ideas?

5. Windows - Originally just had wood window covers mounted on out side. I would like to go with real blind windows but not sure how to mount in existing steel frame - if I frame it out to mount windows it will the opening awfully short?

6. Exterior material - assume treated plywood is best, what thickness. I have a bunch of siding looking 4'x8' panels but they are fiberboard, would they work?


Based on all the pictures what other advice do y'all have for building it out? I can post more specific pictures if needed. All info greatly appreciated!

That fiberboard ain't going to last. Skin it in sheet metal and it'll last your children's lifetime, exterior plywood and good paint and you may get 10 years, fiber board and good paint and you get maybe 5 years. I do not mean that it will fall completely apart in 5-10 years, but somewhere in that time frame you will have to start repairing it (most likely the door and the window frames).

Looks like every deer blind Ive sat in.

No way on the OSB/fibre board, stuff is terrible even with coats and coats of paint.

For the windows I would try sliding plexiglass, maybe a groove cut into a 1x2mounted on the outside.

That's what I figured.....thanks

Plywood around the outside insulation on the inside. Another section of plywood on the inside and then carpet to reduce noise. Sliding plexy windows based on the thickness of those layers. Skin it in sheet metal and seal where your fasteners are and seal at the seams. Go hunt

I believe that those panels that you have look like LP Smart Siding panels. They are good to go. Textured and painted on one side and the pressed board OSB look on the other.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/LP-SmartSide-SmartSide-48-in-x-96-in-Strand-Panel-Siding-27874/100055901

I have used them for several deer blinds, my dog condominium and redone a couple of sheds in the past. They hold up well and are light weight. I redid a deer blind several years ago that looks just like that one.

IMHO depending how fancy you want to be; hardest thing to get right is the windows. You can just have them boards on hinges or you can make up sliding or hinged plexiglass.

Make sure the doors and windows seal tightly enough to keep out owls and ringtails. You have to work at it to make it relatively yellow jacket/wasp proof.

I think your right - that is good news. I have had them in storage for several years and didn't know what they were....

If you go to Sherwin Williams there is a paint that works well on wooden deer blinds. Ask them for a paint/sealant for marine wood, I do not remember the name of it. I used it on a couple of existing deer blinds where we used to hunt years ago and it worked very well. The problem with fiberboard/plywood on a deer blind is not just the exterior moisture, it is also the sweating on the inside that happens, it will swell the wood and then cause it to break down. If you paint it on both sides and the edges it will hold together much longer. I am sure there are other acceptable paints but I use SW paint on my galvanized blinds so that is why I went there.

Not fiberboard. Lp smart panels are painted and good product as is sheet steel.

Id use what you have since its free. Paint any exposed edges. Any of the 2x4 framing should be treated. Metal for the roof with some overhang around the edges. You'll want some new self tapping metal screws and a bit to drive them.

I found these looking around online.

A little pricey but they look like a cool option.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Shadow-Hunter-Silent-Shadow-Gun-Window-Kit-Pack-of-2-SHSSGW/301439299

Got the floor stripped and here is how it was framed - Any better ideas? BTW the rough dimensions are 4'x6'.

Does it need 2 layers of 2"x4"s? One layer could reduce weight, but might have problems with the span?

Check out deerview windows for those and the door. I built a bow blind with them and they are great going on 4 years. The other guys on the lease with Plexiglass windows have already replaced theirs twice. I'd do a metal roof that overhangs and make eves over the windows to reduce water encroachment.

I'd ditch all the 2x4s and just go with one sheet of 1/2" treated plywood. Screw it down to the metal bracing and it should be plenty rigid.

Treat and paint the frame first

Yup. That is today's project....

Looks like a fun project. Nothing to add other than I'm interested in knowing where you got those dolly's? I need a set of those. TIA

This Dude Abides said:

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Looks like a fun project. Nothing to add other than I'm interested in knowing where you got those dolly's? I need a set of those. TIA

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They are Automotive Dollies that you put under a car so you can easily move it around during restoration etc. Harbor Freight etc. Yes they are very handy!

Have a table saw? I would rip the 4' 2x4's in half and space them closer together than what is pictured. Also think a ripped 2x4 or a store bought 2x2 would be fine for the vertical pieces.

Bump for advice on how to attach the walls etc.?
Got the frame Stripped, treated, and painted so time to start putting back together.
Originally everything was connected to the frame with Nuts/bolts which seemed to hold up, but is a little PITA and leaves limited connection points.
Any other ideas/ better ways?
Could bolt wood studs to frame, like floor was originally, and use screws - would add some extra weight but could be mitigated using the thinner/lighter panels?
Any other ideas?

Self tapping metal screws and a bit to drive them. Shoot through the panels from the outside in to the metal framing. Be careful not to blow through the panels, once the screws start to tighten to the metal. If needed you can also add a flat washer between the screws and the panel.

Do the same for the floor. Shouldn't need any wood framing. That's why the metal is built the way it is.

CS78 said:

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Self tapping metal screws and a bit to drive them. Shoot through the panels from the outside in to the metal framing. Be careful not to blow through the panels, once the screws start to tighten to the metal. If needed you can also add a flat washer between the screws and the panel.

Do the same for the floor. Shouldn't need any wood framing. That's why the metal is built the way it is.

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Maybe a dumb question, but will self tapping screws go through that angle iron? I have used the on thinner stuff but nothing that thick? Assuming they will, what kind of head/driver is best to handle the torque? And what kind of drill/driver - I have a couple cordless drill/drivers but dont think they have that much power? Do I need an impact style driver?

Really appreciate the advice - that would be much simpler than nuts & Bolts.

They'll make it through it. Just make sure you get the thickest size screws. Sometimes they'll break half way through depending on the strength of the screw/ how thick the metal is. If that happens, then a pilot hole really close to the screw size will help.

Screws like these- https://www.lowes.com/pd/Teks-12-x-1-in-Zinc-Plated-Zinc-Plated-Self-Drilling-Roofing-Screws-80-Count/3316520

Any strong cordless drill should work. Just make sure the head you buy matches the screws. Lowes might have singles for sale.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-5-Piece-2-in-Steel-Hex-Shank-Screwdriver-Bit/3212989

Would an Impact Driver work better? Can always use an excuse to add to the tool box....

FYI looks like the frame is 4 gauge (just under 1/4") if that makes a difference

Yes it would but not mandatory. I really love my 20V dewalt driver though.

When you're done add up your cost and compare it to a fiberglass one from Boss Game Systems

I am curious to what the delta is

Gilligan said:

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When you're done add up your cost and compare it to a fiberglass one from Boss Game Systems

I am curious to what the delta is

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What are the prices on their base 4'x6'? couldn't find it on their website. Mine probably won't be a fair comparison - reusing old steel frame and have the plywood/siding etc. laying around. The only thing I have to buy is fasteners roofing & flashing etc. I will try to keep track and post.

Ya'll have mentioned insulation - what type recommended? Would the foam core board type work?

I'd just use old carpet on the bottoms and half way up the sides with a staple gun. Its just to cut down on noise in case you bump the sides at a bad time. Insulation is nice but not required unless you just want to.

About decided to go with the Lp Smart Panels - the ones I have are the 76 series which are 3/8" thick. Ya'll think they are rigid enough to bolt to just the frame - longest "span" is 48" wide x 44" tall? The LP install instructions require studs on 16" centers, but I assume that is for load bearing function? I could add a 2'X4" (or maybe 2"x2"?) "stud" or 2 but trying to save weight?

I am also planning to use construction adhesive in addition to the bolts or self drilling screws. Sounds like GORILLA GRAB ADHESIVE would be best for adhesion to the metal and the wood and it says it is "gap filling"? Plan to use a very thick bead so it will also act as a sealant. Think this is a good Idea or are there better products I should use.

BTW will NOT be using the LP panels on the floor or roof - going with 3/4" plywood.

On roof - I have heard "roll roofing" works well - any other thoughts?

Thanks again for input.

bump

CS78 said:

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I'd ditch all the 2x4s and just go with one sheet of 1/2" treated plywood. Screw it down to the metal bracing and it should be plenty rigid.

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I'd do this route as well. Depending on the span between supports going with 3/4" may not be a bad idea.