It's an airweight, no lock 8 round J frame in 22LR.

About the same weight as a 340PD.

Front sight is pretty junk, but removable. I might put a "good" fiber optic on it, if I can find one, or one similar to the one on my 340PD.

Surprisingly decent trigger, for stock. I think the 8 rounds helps.

The brass sticks, not sure if the cylinders need polishing/can be polished.

Brass ejects fully, once you get it to come out.

Normally, I use 222MS loctite on every screw in an airweight, after the rear sight backed out on my 329NG (full power magnum loads are a dumb thing to use in an IDPA match.)

No lock to remove, but I had one lock up the hammer on my 625, at half cock, on a loaded cylinder, so I suggest removing those/never hiring whatever idiot was general counsel for S&W at the time.

You can get a 22 caliber flexible hone and chuck it in a drill to polish the chambers. Takes time and oil but it works.

The cylinder is aluminum, will that make a difference?

Doesn't it have steel sleeves?

CactusThomas said:

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Doesn't it have steel sleeves?

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It does not.

I suggest you give them a good cleaning similar to described above but but not with metal brush.

stick a soaked patch of CLP in each chamber overnight. That usually does the trick.

They are fun to shoot but you gotta make sure you have good ear pro. That little bullet coming out of that shorty barrel is not quiet!

I would still use the hone if it were mine, just carefully. If its just a machined, polished surface as I expect, it won't take long with the hone. If it is some how a hardened, anodized surface, the hone won't do much of anything.

I like it but the 22lr could really make use of another inch of barrel. A 4-6" model with full length grips, exposed hammer, and good sights would be fun.

CS78 said:

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I like it but the 22lr could really make use of another inch of barrel. A 4-6" model with full length grips, exposed hammer, and good sights would be fun.

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You mean the Model 617? And 10 shot 22LR to boot.

Ask and you shall receive.

But its a stainless K frame.

I don't think i have ever seen a J-frame with a 6 inch barrel.

A 317 would be more in line with a slightly longer barrel and better sights but still stainless.
Stainless being less a detractor to me, the bigger issue is then it has a blasted lock.

Theres 5" model 60s. Would be sweet in 22lr and alloy.

CS78 said:

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Theres 5" model 60s. Would be sweet in 22lr and alloy.

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yes and no lock!

So, I should have spent a month, shooting 50 rounds per day, to really get dialed in, but at a round count of a little over 200 now.

A) It needed cleaning. I had a FTF, could have been poorly packaged ammo - the lid got skipped, and the sticker was put directly on the ammo - I may have failed to get some residue off, though the dud looked well creased.

B) CCI SGB seems to be the ammo to use. Seems to pop the plates better than the mini mags - could be the plates are getting more broken in, (I need to find my chronograph screens), but the POI is a few inches below the POI at 7 yards. Groups well, though.

I will see if S&W will tell me which load the sights are regulated for/see if I can find a lower front sight.

C) Tried the Aguila 60Gr SSS. Keyholes like crazy and shot way right.

I think pistol/revolver barrels should be set to release the bullets at the same rpm they should leave a rifle at. Seems to make sense to me, to maximize the rpm.

CS78 said:

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I like it but the 22lr could really make use of another inch of barrel. A 4-6" model with full length grips, exposed hammer, and good sights would be fun.

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The .22lr model 63 is a J-frame with a 4" barrel and adjustable sights, and an exposed hammer. You can add grips of a length that suits you.

Not sure if they are still in current production, but certainly they won't be hard to find. And you are correct - they are quite fun.

C