Is this crabgrass in my zoysia?
Best way to get rid of it?
Preventive measures for spring 2020?




https://imgur.com/gallery/8CBGDQq

sure looks like it!!
only 2 ways I've found to get rid of it...1) dig it up completely...make sure to get all roots. and 2) use this stuff called crabgrass killer. Have to get from local nursery not big box. Or maybe online. It's powder you wet the leaves, apply powder, then activate with a little more water. I add surfectant to the water for mine.

BUT there's something to know. That killer stuff will also really do a number on the grass. Won't kill it completely but burns it really bad. What I do to help my grass is I put down paper towels underneath/between the crab grass and st augustine. Then I spray the crab with surfectant/water mix, apply killer, lightly spray again to activate.

Works pretty good. Sometimes I get it covered good enough it kills in one application but this stuff is stubborn so sometimes it takes a second a few weeks later.

if you have just the one, I'd dig it up. I also use the crabgrass killer on virginia buttonweed which is more of a nuisance than the crabgrass is. If we didn't have the buttonweed I wouldn't own this stuff and would just dig up.

On about 20,000 sq ft of zoysia grass , I have about 25-30 that are bigger than silver dollar. I'm sure theres more coming up that are not yet as visible

What about a real close up glyphosate tight down the middle of the crabgrass. Just 1/4,tsp maybe

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2) use this stuff called crabgrass killer

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Or just use boxed baking soda for a 1/10th of the cost. Get some super soapy water, spray on the blades, then sprinkle the baking soda on it.

Pre-Emergent is the best solution though. Make note for next year.

Hand apply roundup. Nevermind the cancer. I had a big problem last year and kicked its ass with this method.
Best method I found was a recc on here to use a cotton glove over your nitrile, then just put the roundup on the fingers of the cotton glove and get after it. I use my clean hand to get the bad stuff up and clear of my good grass, then just kind of run the crab grass through my fingers.

Thx

Right now Im down one right arm (rotator cuff surgery 18 days ago) so anything requiring 2 hands will have to wait

Im going to spray the spot where all those stems merge in the ground. 2 squirts of Round Up. Im gonna do about 10 and inspect on Thursday or Friday

Next up: God forsaken nutsedge

Dig it up. Bayer makes a weed n feed that controls crabgrass. It's available at Home Depot and Lowe's. Works for me.

Pay the kids to dig them up. 5 cents per.

Bayer Celsius WG

Not cheap but it works great to kill a lot of weeds and is safe on St Augustine, Bermuda, Zoysia, etc.........

A little bit goes a long way too.

nutsedge is much easier.
took me a couple of tries but I've had great results with Ortho Nutsedge killer from the big box stores. of course, mix a little surfectant with it.
one thing I noticed while going after nutsedge is that SOME of the products say do not apply when it's above 90 degrees out. I learned the hard way on one of them.
I'm in the middle of testing this with the Ortho product on a particular spot of sedge. It's killed the sedge but looks to have stressed the st augustine as well. I'll be happy to deal with a little stress on the grass as effective as it is killing sedge.

like all of these products they will all say safe to use on warm season grasses, st augustine, etc.....but that rarely seems to be the case and when you read the fine print you'll see it has to be applied in certain conditions (that only seem to happen once or twice a year and not likely when weed is at peak growth).

but like others said, also gotta apply preemergent regularly

trip98 said:

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nutsedge is much easier.
took me a couple of tries but I've had great results with Ortho Nutsedge killer from the big box stores. of course, mix a little surfectant with it.
one thing I noticed while going after nutsedge is that SOME of the products say do not apply when it's above 90 degrees out. I learned the hard way on one of them.
I'm in the middle of testing this with the Ortho product on a particular spot of sedge. It's killed the sedge but looks to have stressed the st augustine as well. I'll be happy to deal with a little stress on the grass as effective as it is killing sedge.

like all of these products they will all say safe to use on warm season grasses, st augustine, etc.....but that rarely seems to be the case and when you read the fine print you'll see it has to be applied in certain conditions (that only seem to happen once or twice a year and not likely when weed is at peak growth).

but like others said, also gotta apply preemergent regularly

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Tha F it is.

And there is nothing at the big box store that will permanently kill nutsedge. Even Roundup won't kill it completely. Certainty is the only thing I've found that is actually effective.

Ive had good success with the Ortho nutsedge product as well

I have to get it down into the neck though on each plant or it wont kill it. The broadcast method I have not seen work well

MSM Turf off amazon. Pain in the butt to mix up in small batches, but kills just about everything but grass.Wear PPE.

I have same stuff in my zoysia. I've tried nutsedge killer which didn't work. Bought Bayer Celsius and applied two weeks ago. Started browning after about a week. Just applied second dose. It is expensive...$115 for 10 oz. but you use very little so it will last a long time and cover a lot of area. Mid application rate is .085 oz per gallon. I converted to grams and used 2.8 grams per gallon. Make sure to use a surfactant like hi yield spreader sticker which will aid in getting the Celsius to stick to leaves. Apply when temp is below 85 and don't water for a couple of days.

schmellba99 said:

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trip98 said:

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nutsedge is much easier.
took me a couple of tries but I've had great results with Ortho Nutsedge killer from the big box stores. of course, mix a little surfectant with it.
one thing I noticed while going after nutsedge is that SOME of the products say do not apply when it's above 90 degrees out. I learned the hard way on one of them.
I'm in the middle of testing this with the Ortho product on a particular spot of sedge. It's killed the sedge but looks to have stressed the st augustine as well. I'll be happy to deal with a little stress on the grass as effective as it is killing sedge.

like all of these products they will all say safe to use on warm season grasses, st augustine, etc.....but that rarely seems to be the case and when you read the fine print you'll see it has to be applied in certain conditions (that only seem to happen once or twice a year and not likely when weed is at peak growth).

but like others said, also gotta apply preemergent regularly

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Tha F it is.

And there is nothing at the big box store that will permanently kill nutsedge. Even Roundup won't kill it completely. Certainty is the only thing I've found that is actually effective.

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maybe I got lucky but Ortho product worked for mine. I've also used sedgehammer which also works very well but it's more expensive and only available online or at nurseries.

I have an area off to the side where I keep some bricks and stones and other large crap. It's mostly a dirt area and not my grass and the sedge that has grown there has definitely been killed by the ortho stuff.

The problem I've found with sedge is that I keep a very thick yard and in summer mow at highest setting on mower. So it might take a while for sedge to grow tall enough for me to see. I'm only spot treating instead of trying to treat the whole yard so naturally I may not get all of it at one time.

limup1215 said:

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I have same stuff in my zoysia. I've tried nutsedge killer which didn't work. Bought Bayer Celsius and applied two weeks ago. Started browning after about a week. Just applied second dose. It is expensive...$115 for 10 oz. but you use very little so it will last a long time and cover a lot of area. Mid application rate is .085 oz per gallon. I converted to grams and used 2.8 grams per gallon. Make sure to use a surfactant like hi yield spreader sticker which will aid in getting the Celsius to stick to leaves. Apply when temp is below 85 and don't water for a couple of days.

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if this stuff is that good and use very little...but is that expensive, any of you guys that bought it that live in Houston area willing to sell some in the fall or spring?

www.makemygrassgreen.com if you are in Houston area

I just pull it out by hand...... Every couple weeks.

This is crabgrass, correct?

You either got lucky, or I was unlucky. Sedge Ender and Sedgehammer didn't work for me - turned the sedge yellow, and even after multiple treatments - didn't kill it.

Certainty, however, kills the F out of it. I had an area in my back yard that was probably 10' x 20' of nothing but sedge - 2 treatments of Certainty and it is mas muerto now, and my bermuda has almost reclaimed the area.

I'm on a jihad against sedge and now that I have found something that works, I'm on a full out offensive against it. My war against my bahia grass even went into a cease fire until I started winning against this damned weed I hate.

rootube said:

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I just pull it out by hand...... Every couple weeks.

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If you aren't getting the nut, all you are doing is promoting it to spread.

Looks more like dove weed but it hard to tell from pics

schmellba99 said:

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You either got lucky, or I was unlucky. Sedge Ender and Sedgehammer didn't work for me - turned the sedge yellow, and even after multiple treatments - didn't kill it.

Certainty, however, kills the F out of it. I had an area in my back yard that was probably 10' x 20' of nothing but sedge - 2 treatments of Certainty and it is mas muerto now, and my bermuda has almost reclaimed the area.

I'm on a jihad against sedge and now that I have found something that works, I'm on a full out offensive against it. My war against my bahia grass even went into a cease fire until I started winning against this damned weed I hate.

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Sedge hammer will usually work for yellow nutsedge but purple nutsedge is a totally different beast. Repeat apps of certainty or dismiss will work or a single app of monument. Always use a surfactant and some acidifying agent with your herbicides.

Man I think that might be Dallis grass. Not sure, hard to tell with pics. I don't think it's crabgrass. Second pic is definitely crabgrass.

Dallis grass is TOUGH to kill. MSMA will do it if you can get your hands on it.

Their is a product called Drive that will kill post emerged crab grass. It is best to spot spray with it. I don't think you can use on st Augustine lawns.

I had had great luck with a pre emergent with active ingredient dithyopor (sp?). Kept a lot of that stuff from coming up.

John1248 said:

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Man I think that might be Dallis grass. Not sure, hard to tell with pics. I don't think it's crabgrass. Second pic is definitely crabgrass.

Dallis grass is TOUGH to kill. MSMA will do it if you can get your hands on it.

Their is a product called Drive that will kill post emerged crab grass. It is best to spot spray with it. I don't think you can use on st Augustine lawns.

I had had great luck with a pre emergent with active ingredient dithyopor (sp?). Kept a lot of that stuff from coming up.

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Msma + certainty will kill dallisgrass. Quinclorac (drive) will smoke st Augustine, might as well save money and use roundup. Dithiopyr (dimension) is a good pre-emergent but you never want to rely on a single chemistry. Again, if anyone needs help shoot me an email or give me a call. http://www.makemygrassgreen.com/

What time of year for the pre-emergent?

peachbasket said:

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What time of year for the pre-emergent?

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Every 3 months starting in March. I like ronstar, dimension, barricade, barricade.