This may sound like something obvious, but it really isn't.

Ten years ago, I moved from DFW to East Tennessee, and left fire ants behind (or so I thought). They're now here, and their mounds are as big as I remember in North Texas. I've researched the 'net,' but candidly, I'm not predisposed to following those...as I've found many of those remedies to be less than stellar.

So you guys in Texas, please share with me what you find that works.

FYI...Armadillos have now been found in Blount County (where I live). Cracks me up. Hopefully, Texas BBQ will be here soon!

Only fair for what they have done to country music.

I've used Amdro with great success for a number of years.......

Boiling hot water works
But it kills the grass

Had an Asian neighbor years ago who did this and he had circular dead spots all over his yard.

Amdro works well. You never exterminate them; just force them to move and keep the population minimized. It's an ongoing battle, but one you lose if you quit.

Broadcast "Over 'N Out Advanced Fire Ant Killer" twice a year, spring and fall. Available on the web if you can't find it locally. You can cover a wide area pretty cheaply and a treatment works for up to 6 months. Then spot treat any individual mounds that pop up with Amdro, there will always be a few. This will pretty much end your fire ant problems in my experience, or at least cut it back to where they are not any kind of a problem..

Get some Advion Fire Ant Bait. The 2 lb shaker jug is perfect for residential scenarios. It's a bait so they will take it into the colony directly to the queen. Or, if you can get your hands on a good Fipronil based product you'll be good for about a year.

Irish_Man said:

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Boiling hot water works
But it kills the grass

Had an Asian neighbor years ago who did this and he had circular dead spots all over his yard.

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What did your one black neighbor and 3 white neighbors do for ant control?

expresswrittenconsent said:

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Irish_Man said:

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Boiling hot water works
But it kills the grass

Had an Asian neighbor years ago who did this and he had circular dead spots all over his yard.

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What did your one black neighbor and 3 white neighbors do for ant control?

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I've recommended Bifen IT in the mosquito threads but also works wonders on fireants

Orthene is what I use. Sprinkle a few tablespoons of it on the mound - the next day you can place your hand in the mound with no issue.

Of course you can follow what TAMU Agrilife recommends:
https://fireant.tamu.edu/controlmethods/products/organic/

It is an organic solution that kills using natural bacteria instead of deadly broad based poisons.

expresswrittenconsent said:

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Irish_Man said:

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Boiling hot water works
But it kills the grass

Had an Asian neighbor years ago who did this and he had circular dead spots all over his yard.

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What did your one black neighbor and 3 white neighbors do for ant control?

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I'll admit, this went right over my head.

Bifen granules definitely works for fire ants. I spread it over the whole yard according to instructions and it kept the ants out of my yard for the summer. It also did a number on most other insects (e.g., mole crickets, grubs, etc) and I even had a very significant drop in crawfish chimneys too. However, I enjoy birds and have bluebird boxes that are usually used two to three times through the year. The year I used Bifen they started a nest and laid eggs, but abandoned it and didn't return for the year. Maybe a coincidence, but I don't think so. No more Bifen for me. I'll try the methods you linked to here.

txrancher69 said:

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Broadcast "Over 'N Out Advanced Fire Ant Killer" twice a year, spring and fall. Available on the web if you can't find it locally. You can cover a wide area pretty cheaply and a treatment works for up to 6 months. Then spot treat any individual mounds that pop up with Amdro, there will always be a few. This will pretty much end your fire ant problems in my experience, or at least cut it back to where they are not any kind of a problem..

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And, do this for your whole subdivision.

Spinosad is an amazing insecticide. It is a bacteria that is only toxic to insects, especially caterpillars through ingestion. It is not toxic to animals and birds, even if they eat the insects. It was only recently ('85) discovered in abandoned rum factories.

Caesar4 said:

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txrancher69 said:

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Broadcast "Over 'N Out Advanced Fire Ant Killer" twice a year, spring and fall. Available on the web if you can't find it locally. You can cover a wide area pretty cheaply and a treatment works for up to 6 months. Then spot treat any individual mounds that pop up with Amdro, there will always be a few. This will pretty much end your fire ant problems in my experience, or at least cut it back to where they are not any kind of a problem..

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And, do this for your whole subdivision.

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Properly applied fipronil is a very effective fire ant killer. It is especially useful around the foundation of your home or electrical boxes.

DO NOT APPLY MORE THAN 2 POUNDS PER 1,000 SQ FT PER YEAR!
DO NOT APPLY WITHIN 24 HRS OF RAIN OR ANTICIPATED RUNOFF!
DO NOT APPLY NEAR WATER OR WETLANDS!
IT IS HIGHLY TOXIC TO FISH, BEES AND QUAIL!
DO NOT APPLY TO VEGETABLE GARDENS!

Per TAMU:

"Duration of Control: very long true residual control, 8 12+ months; colonies migrating into treated areas will die off in 3 4 weeks, as if they had been treated; only one application per year is even allowed"

Over and out broadcast. Amdro for individual mounds. - just make sure it is dry. If Amdro gets soggy, it doesn't appeal to the ants.

I echo the "Over and Out" sentiments. It's the best and easiest solution. Broadcast when they first appear in March/April and use for spot treatment if they should pop up with a heavy rain. At about the 6 month mark of effectiveness is when it's getting too cold for them to come to the surface.

Molten aluminum + fire ants = profit

waltonE88 said:

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Orthene is what I use. Sprinkle a few tablespoons of it on the mound - the next day you can place your hand in the mound with no issue.

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While not worthy of a Darwin award, certainly worthy of nomination. Why would you put your hand on a fire ant mound just to see if what you used yesterday worked?

6.5 Swede said:

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Caesar4 said:

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txrancher69 said:

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Broadcast "Over 'N Out Advanced Fire Ant Killer" twice a year, spring and fall. Available on the web if you can't find it locally. You can cover a wide area pretty cheaply and a treatment works for up to 6 months. Then spot treat any individual mounds that pop up with Amdro, there will always be a few. This will pretty much end your fire ant problems in my experience, or at least cut it back to where they are not any kind of a problem..

---

And, do this for your whole subdivision.

---

Properly applied fipronil is a very effective fire ant killer. It is especially useful around the foundation of your home or electrical boxes.

DO NOT APPLY MORE THAN 2 POUNDS PER 1,000 SQ FT PER YEAR!
DO NOT APPLY WITHIN 24 HRS OF RAIN OR ANTICIPATED RUNOFF!
DO NOT APPLY NEAR WATER OR WETLANDS!
IT IS HIGHLY TOXIC TO FISH, BEES AND QUAIL!
DO NOT APPLY TO VEGETABLE GARDENS!

Per TAMU:

"Duration of Control: very long true residual control, 8 12+ months; colonies migrating into treated areas will die off in 3 4 weeks, as if they had been treated; only one application per year is even allowed"

---

Interesting, thanks for posing this 6.5. Do we know why only a single application is allowed? What are the risks of multiple applications?

Irish_Man said:

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Boiling hot water works
But it kills the grass

Had an Asian neighbor years ago who did this and he had circular dead spots all over his yard.

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White guy here. I use boiling water in my yard and it works fine. I have not noticed it killing the grass (St. Augustine). I would imagine there is a scale problem as my yard is tiny and I only typically have a few ant mounds. I can't imagine walking around an acre trying to boil them out.

CSTXAg92 said:

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6.5 Swede said:

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Caesar4 said:

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txrancher69 said:

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Broadcast "Over 'N Out Advanced Fire Ant Killer" twice a year, spring and fall. Available on the web if you can't find it locally. You can cover a wide area pretty cheaply and a treatment works for up to 6 months. Then spot treat any individual mounds that pop up with Amdro, there will always be a few. This will pretty much end your fire ant problems in my experience, or at least cut it back to where they are not any kind of a problem..

---

And, do this for your whole subdivision.

---

Properly applied fipronil is a very effective fire ant killer. It is especially useful around the foundation of your home or electrical boxes.

DO NOT APPLY MORE THAN 2 POUNDS PER 1,000 SQ FT PER YEAR!
DO NOT APPLY WITHIN 24 HRS OF RAIN OR ANTICIPATED RUNOFF!
DO NOT APPLY NEAR WATER OR WETLANDS!
IT IS HIGHLY TOXIC TO FISH, BEES AND QUAIL!
DO NOT APPLY TO VEGETABLE GARDENS!

Per TAMU:

"Duration of Control: very long true residual control, 8 12+ months; colonies migrating into treated areas will die off in 3 4 weeks, as if they had been treated; only one application per year is even allowed"

---

Interesting, thanks for posing this 6.5. Do we know why only a single application is allowed? What are the risks of multiple applications?

---

Did you really read the side effects and wonder to yourself why can I only apply this once a year?

I like how they specifically mention quail and bees as if other small birds and insects are totally cool with it. I personally would not use this. There are far less toxic ways to manage fire ants.

rootube said:

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CSTXAg92 said:

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6.5 Swede said:

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Caesar4 said:

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txrancher69 said:

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Broadcast "Over 'N Out Advanced Fire Ant Killer" twice a year, spring and fall. Available on the web if you can't find it locally. You can cover a wide area pretty cheaply and a treatment works for up to 6 months. Then spot treat any individual mounds that pop up with Amdro, there will always be a few. This will pretty much end your fire ant problems in my experience, or at least cut it back to where they are not any kind of a problem..

---

And, do this for your whole subdivision.

---

Properly applied fipronil is a very effective fire ant killer. It is especially useful around the foundation of your home or electrical boxes.

DO NOT APPLY MORE THAN 2 POUNDS PER 1,000 SQ FT PER YEAR!
DO NOT APPLY WITHIN 24 HRS OF RAIN OR ANTICIPATED RUNOFF!
DO NOT APPLY NEAR WATER OR WETLANDS!
IT IS HIGHLY TOXIC TO FISH, BEES AND QUAIL!
DO NOT APPLY TO VEGETABLE GARDENS!

Per TAMU:

"Duration of Control: very long true residual control, 8 12+ months; colonies migrating into treated areas will die off in 3 4 weeks, as if they had been treated; only one application per year is even allowed"

---

Interesting, thanks for posing this 6.5. Do we know why only a single application is allowed? What are the risks of multiple applications?

---

Did you really read the side effects and wonder to yourself why can I only apply this once a year?

I like how they specifically mention quail and bees as if other small birds and insects are totally cool with it. I personally would not use this. There are far less toxic ways to manage fire ants.

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Apologies, I read right past the, "HIGHLY TOXIC TO FISH, BEES AND QUAIL" part. Makes complete sense.

Wonder why we can't get this solution to take hold:

rootube said:

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CSTXAg92 said:

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6.5 Swede said:

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Caesar4 said:

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txrancher69 said:

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Broadcast "Over 'N Out Advanced Fire Ant Killer" twice a year, spring and fall. Available on the web if you can't find it locally. You can cover a wide area pretty cheaply and a treatment works for up to 6 months. Then spot treat any individual mounds that pop up with Amdro, there will always be a few. This will pretty much end your fire ant problems in my experience, or at least cut it back to where they are not any kind of a problem..

---

And, do this for your whole subdivision.

---

Properly applied fipronil is a very effective fire ant killer. It is especially useful around the foundation of your home or electrical boxes.

DO NOT APPLY MORE THAN 2 POUNDS PER 1,000 SQ FT PER YEAR!
DO NOT APPLY WITHIN 24 HRS OF RAIN OR ANTICIPATED RUNOFF!
DO NOT APPLY NEAR WATER OR WETLANDS!
IT IS HIGHLY TOXIC TO FISH, BEES AND QUAIL!
DO NOT APPLY TO VEGETABLE GARDENS!

Per TAMU:

"Duration of Control: very long true residual control, 8 12+ months; colonies migrating into treated areas will die off in 3 4 weeks, as if they had been treated; only one application per year is even allowed"

---

Interesting, thanks for posing this 6.5. Do we know why only a single application is allowed? What are the risks of multiple applications?

---

Did you really read the side effects and wonder to yourself why can I only apply this once a year?

I like how they specifically mention quail and bees as if other small birds and insects are totally cool with it. I personally would not use this. There are far less toxic ways to manage fire ants.

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Maybe he specifically hates fish, bees, and quail.

rootube said:

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CSTXAg92 said:

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6.5 Swede said:

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Caesar4 said:

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txrancher69 said:

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Broadcast "Over 'N Out Advanced Fire Ant Killer" twice a year, spring and fall. Available on the web if you can't find it locally. You can cover a wide area pretty cheaply and a treatment works for up to 6 months. Then spot treat any individual mounds that pop up with Amdro, there will always be a few. This will pretty much end your fire ant problems in my experience, or at least cut it back to where they are not any kind of a problem..

---

And, do this for your whole subdivision.

---

Properly applied fipronil is a very effective fire ant killer. It is especially useful around the foundation of your home or electrical boxes.

DO NOT APPLY MORE THAN 2 POUNDS PER 1,000 SQ FT PER YEAR!
DO NOT APPLY WITHIN 24 HRS OF RAIN OR ANTICIPATED RUNOFF!
DO NOT APPLY NEAR WATER OR WETLANDS!
IT IS HIGHLY TOXIC TO FISH, BEES AND QUAIL!
DO NOT APPLY TO VEGETABLE GARDENS!

Per TAMU:

"Duration of Control: very long true residual control, 8 12+ months; colonies migrating into treated areas will die off in 3 4 weeks, as if they had been treated; only one application per year is even allowed"

---

Interesting, thanks for posing this 6.5. Do we know why only a single application is allowed? What are the risks of multiple applications?

---

Did you really read the side effects and wonder to yourself why can I only apply this once a year?

I like how they specifically mention quail and bees as if other small birds and insects are totally cool with it. I personally would not use this. There are far less toxic ways to manage fire ants.

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i really don't know of many fish, bees, or quail that feed underground. The key is lightly watering it in and sealing it off from normal runoff.

Another vote for fipronil. I use the Top Choice branded product, as it's the best performing product that I've tried. Results for me have been outstanding, only seeing an occasional mound after about a month post treatment.

Go to DoMyOwn and spray bifenthrin all over your yard 2x per year. No more fire ants.

craig09 said:

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Get some Advion Fire Ant Bait. The 2 lb shaker jug is perfect for residential scenarios. It's a bait so they will take it into the colony directly to the queen. Or, if you can get your hands on a good Fipronil based product you'll be good for about a year.

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THIS. I cant recommend this enough. A teaspoon of that stuff sprinkled on the mound will eliminate it within 24 hours as long as there is no rain.

As a kid, either those black plastic film canisters or an empty pill bottle filled with the powder from all our left over fireworks and a bottle-rocket wick seemed to do the trick.

B-1 83 said:

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rootube said:

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CSTXAg92 said:

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6.5 Swede said:

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Caesar4 said:

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txrancher69 said:

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Broadcast "Over 'N Out Advanced Fire Ant Killer" twice a year, spring and fall. Available on the web if you can't find it locally. You can cover a wide area pretty cheaply and a treatment works for up to 6 months. Then spot treat any individual mounds that pop up with Amdro, there will always be a few. This will pretty much end your fire ant problems in my experience, or at least cut it back to where they are not any kind of a problem..

---

And, do this for your whole subdivision.

---

Properly applied fipronil is a very effective fire ant killer. It is especially useful around the foundation of your home or electrical boxes.

DO NOT APPLY MORE THAN 2 POUNDS PER 1,000 SQ FT PER YEAR!
DO NOT APPLY WITHIN 24 HRS OF RAIN OR ANTICIPATED RUNOFF!
DO NOT APPLY NEAR WATER OR WETLANDS!
IT IS HIGHLY TOXIC TO FISH, BEES AND QUAIL!
DO NOT APPLY TO VEGETABLE GARDENS!

Per TAMU:

"Duration of Control: very long true residual control, 8 12+ months; colonies migrating into treated areas will die off in 3 4 weeks, as if they had been treated; only one application per year is even allowed"

---

Interesting, thanks for posing this 6.5. Do we know why only a single application is allowed? What are the risks of multiple applications?

---

Did you really read the side effects and wonder to yourself why can I only apply this once a year?

I like how they specifically mention quail and bees as if other small birds and insects are totally cool with it. I personally would not use this. There are far less toxic ways to manage fire ants.

---

i really don't know of many fish, bees, or quail that feed underground. The key is lightly watering it in and sealing it off from normal runoff.

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Sorry if I didn't make it more clear with my previous posts as I USE SPINOSAD!
Ya'll are making my point for me as all the other posters who use every other poison, EVEN IF YOU FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS SAFE AND EFFECTIVE MEANS YOU WILL HAVE ALL THOSE SIDE EFFECTS!!!

CSTXAg92 said:

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Wonder why we can't get this solution to take hold:

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Per TAMU Agrilife:

Will Pseudacteon phorid flies eradicate red imported fire ants?

No. In South America, where all 20 or so species of Pseudacteon phorid flies that attack and parasitize red imported fire ants, only 3% or less of the worker ants in a colony are parasitized and good sized colonies contain roughly 200,000 ants!

Distribution covers most of the SEC country:
https://www.eddmaps.org/distribution/uscounty.cfm?sub=58992&host=79789

I use fipronil. I feel comfortable having allergic relatives walk the lawn barefoot.

Granules if you get the pesticides license if not domyown.com sells taurus SC (off brand version of termidor). I use that for bug barrier. Around lot, foundation and yard... But granules last longer. Bifen granules have to be applied more often than fipronil ones but that does not require pesticide license I believe