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DIY Alaskan Caribou Hunt Recap

12,269 Views | 65 Replies | Last: 7 yr ago by clinte234
clinte234
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In an effort to MOBGA (did I do that right?) I'll try to give a "quick" recap of our Alaskan caribou hunt from this past September.

tl/dl warning: 4 guys from Texas go to Alaska for the first time and chase caribou around for 6 days!

I would love to answer any questions about doing a DIY trip like this. After researching for 6 months I can tell you that there is not a lot of information out there. This was Unit 23 in Northwest Alaska and part of the Barren Ground Caribou herd.


This is coming to you from the perspective of a novice, big game hunter (and that is being generous) that was blessed to have the opportunity of a lifetime to do something I never thought possible. No humble-bragging going on here...luckily I had enough airline miles saved up to cover all of my flights except one small $150 puddle jump in Alaska. I also already had most of the gear that I needed and was able to spread out the payments to the air transport company over six months. If it wasn't for that this trip would have been years down the road for me.


Just for a little context...I grew up hunting birds in the Panhandle, but never rifle hunted until 4 years ago. I've been able to shoot a handful of deer and pigs since then so it was important to go with good friends that know what they are doing and don't mind helping a newbie out. That is exactly what I did...I joined up with 3 of my best friends, two really experienced hunters and one just as green as me.


So 3 Aggies and 1 Auburn Tiger (I will just call them Aggie1, Aggie2, and Tiger) head out early on a Saturday morning in September flying from Austin to Anchorage for the first leg of our 9 day adventure. We all arrived in Anchorage with enough time to watch the Aggies beat ULaLa with the South Central Alaska A&M Club at the Peanut Farm Bar and Grill...an unplanned, interesting, and overall awesome experience!


We stayed Saturday night in Anchorage and woke up early Sunday morning to fly to Kotzebue, about 30 miles north of the Arctic Circle. Once there we met up with our air transport company Ram Aviation www.flyingak.com (we had a very positive experience with them and I'd be happy to answer specific questions you might have!)


From here we geared up and went in pairs in a small Cessna another 120 miles north along the Noatak River. Our pilot landed on the side of the river. Aggie1 and I were in the first group so we unloaded the plane and began setting up camp while the pilot flew back to get Aggie2 and Tiger. It is definitely a weird feeling to watch that airplane leave and know you are the only humans for miles and miles! Since you can't hunt the same day that you fly in we got camp set up, checked our rifles to make sure we were still zeroed in, and then spent the afternoon scouting and making a plan for the next day. We had Monday-Friday to fill our 4 caribou tags. The pilot would be back to pick us up on Saturday morning. If I went into detail about the next 5 days I might set the record for the longest post in TexAgs OB history.so I will try to summarize the best I can!


View from the plane flight in...ended up going up and over these mountains!

Sunday night/Monday morning we woke up about 4am to check out the Northern Lights, which was a bucket list item for all of us. The lights were out and pretty awesome. We stood between our two tents looking at them for a few minutes. Then Aggie2 shined his light along the river bank and to our surprise and good sized grizzly stood up about 75 yards from our camp. Little did we know this would be the first of many interactions between us and what we think was 2 or 3 grizzlies over the course of the week. Needless to say the four of us Alaska rookies were back in our tents in a matter of seconds. For whatever reason that thin nylon tent made us feel a lot safer.


Home Sweet Home for 6 nights!

Monday morning Aggie1 and Aggie2 each dropped a bull about 15 yards apart from each other. The problem was they were almost 2 miles from camp in what we quickly found out was a very rugged terrain. It's hard to describe the land in this part of Alaska. Before we left someone described it to us as "walking on frozen basketballs." That is a pretty good description, although I would add that about every third frozen basketball immediately deflates when you step on it and you fall off into at least 6 inches of water. There is water everywhere. When you look across the landscape it looks fairly flat and easy to traverse, but when you get in the middle of an open field you figure out it is full of water and you are now sloshing through at a very slow and tiresome pace.


wareagle and clinte234's view of Aggie 1 and 2 setting up for their shots!


It was an adventure to get across the river! EVERY.SINGLE.TIME.




It took most of the afternoon to get the meat packed out and back to camp, but we were rewarded with an awesome dinner of fresh caribou tenderloins, which was delicious. One day down 2 out of 4 guys already tagged out...we may end up having several days to just fish and relax...not quite!


Thankfully Tuesday ended up being our only day with really poor weather. We woke up socked in with the crazy Alaskan fog that you read about. When the visibility improved enough to glass effectively we headed out to our knob that we named Tower Point. This is where we spotted most of the caribou during the trip. Then we would make a plan and head out from there. Usually the four of us would stick together, but as the week went on we split up in pairs to give us more opportunities to find animals. There was a steady, cold drizzle pretty much all day on Tuesday and the caribou were not moving like they were on Monday. It ended up being a long day without a lot of action, but hey we were still in the Alaskan wilderness so it wasn't all bad.


Wednesday was the day we committed the "ultimate sin of caribou hunting." Leading up to the trip we read and watched everything we could find about caribou hunting. One tip that was common in most everything we found was "don't chase caribou." If the caribou are moving away from you it is impossible to catch them. We spotted the biggest herd that we saw all week on Wednesday morning. We estimated them to be about 1.5-2 miles away, grazing and moving slowly away from us. We all agreed that we could make up enough ground to cut them off so off we went stumbling across the tundra. Each time we found an elevated spot to glass the herd we found that it had moved substantially. We did this two or three times until we finally gave up. At this point we were 4 miles from camp and had spent most of the day unsuccessfully chasing this one herd; lesson learned. This area became known as "The Place We Will Never Go Back to Again!"


To make it easier to communicate with each other we started naming all of the places we had been. Our camp was "College Station" and our go-to glassing knob was "Tower Point." We had other glassing knobs that became known as "Navasota," "Hearne," and "Franklin." It sounded ridiculous while we were out there but we can still have a conversation about our trip and mention these places and we all know what each other is talking about.


After Wednesday's disappointment we split up into pairs on Thursday, knowing we only had two days left for Tiger and I to get our bulls. It worked! #3 was dropped by Tiger in the afternoon. There was enough light to make one trip out with meat. The rest of the meat and the antlers would have to wait until the next morning.


Friday Tiger and Aggie1 went to pack out the rest of the meat. I was the last one remaining without a caribou so Aggie2 and I headed out with one last chance. It was a long day glassing and trying to be patient. Finally, with about 2 hours of light left we spotted a group of bulls heading towards us. All week we had watched caribou follow this exact same path, and every time they had turned east about 600 yards from where were were set up. We got as close as we felt like we could without spooking them. I got set up on the rifle and locked in on what we determined to be the best bull of the group. They were still around 750 yards from us and we were expecting them to turn at any moment. I was dialed in to take a long distance shot but to our surprise the caribou didn't turn. They kept walking straight towards us. We stayed as still as possible and continued to adjust the scope as this bull got bigger and bigger in the cross hairs. Finally the group stopped to eat. They were close to 200 yards at this point. We checked the scope one more time and I waited for a clear shot. Bang! Caribou down...with just enough time to get it packed out before the sun went down.




4 guys...4 caribou! The theme of the week ended up being the nightly visitations we had from the local grizzlies. Four mature, bull caribou harvested and unfortunately we only came home with about 80 pounds of meat. It was crazy...we tried everything we could think of to protect the meat, but that is a whole other story for another day.


Part of the bear mess!

Unit 23 Alaska is a wild, barren place. Over six days the only living creatures we saw were caribou, ravens, brown bears, and one lone muskox bull (which was really cool!) All in all it was one of the best weeks of my life and something I will remember fondly. It was also physically and mentally exhausting at the time and I'm glad I did this in my 30's. It was the type of trip where we were all ready to leave at the end, but not in a negative way...more in a way where we felt like we came and accomplished what we wanted to. I'm not going to lie, the cheeseburger, Dr. Pepper, and a temperature controlled hotel room back in Kotzebue Saturday night was enthusiastically appreciated!


Three of us had 6.5 Creedmoors and the other had a 6.5 PRC. We each took a sidearm with us for bear protection.



The insane runway in Kotzebue...we also landed/took off on this runway in a 737, which was a wild adventure all on its own!

AgEng06
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Awesome trip and story! Looking forward to the pics.
PFG
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That's awesome! Do you have an email where I could reach you to discuss more logistics of the DIY? Specifically travel, tags, etc etc. Would love to do this in 2019/2020.
schmellba99: Hard to believe people are looking at what is happening and thinking this is something other than a flu like bug
wareagle044
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SPOILER ALERT: I am Tiger in this post

I'm here to expand on the Thursday portion of this post as I was caribou #3 for the week.


The day started with a sense of urgency in my mind because I knew the likelihood of us dropping 2 caribou in one day again was not as promising as day 1 made it seem. With clinte234 and I still needing a bull -- one of us had to have success today.

We started as a group on Tower Point and watched a set of large bulls which had bedded down miles down the river just waiting on what their plan. The trailblazer in me was ready to get in the little boat (if you could call it that) which the outfitter left for us -- which probably would have worked, but would have made for the worst pack out in the history of pack outs. Aggie 1 and Aggie 2 had already made an upstream pack out earlier in the week and this would have been about 4 times as far.

We noticed a large herd with good bulls moving behind a ridge line beyond the group which was bedded down. They went out of site -- we moved on (this is the group to remember).

There was an area south of Tower Point that we had not explored much throughout the week. In my mind -- any new ridge we could eclipse --- on the other side looked like the end scene of "The Land Before Time" when all of the baby dinos finally find the herd. At least in my mind that's how it was going to work. Aggie 2 and I saw a ridge we wanted to peer over that "was only a mile or so away" (a mile in tundra talk is at least 3 miles in normal terms -- the terrain is unforgivable) Aggie 1 and clinte234 thought we were stupid and headed back to the area designated Watch Point Franklin to formulate a new plan --- which really meant -- they stopped at camp to eat.

Aggie 2 and I went on our mission to conquer the ridgeline ahead -- and I won't say that Aggie 1 and 3 were right about us being stupid --- but it wasn't the best idea. We made it MAYBE halfway. HOWEVER -- what we did have when we stopped to look back was an awesome vantage point of the area we had been glassing all week from Tower Point.

We had been hiking for maybe an hour and while glassing from our new perch -- it appeared the large herd we had seen earlier was making its way toward our camp. The two of us watched them and picked a point in which we were going to go for them --- they were either going to come toward us or go around the backside of our Franklin watch point and we were going to try and catch them on the backside of Franklin...

They hit our landmark and made move in a direction that we thought we could cut them off -- the plan Aggie 2 and I made was to get back down to camp -- load clinte234 and I up in the raft while Aggie 1 and 2 crossed the river at a low point we had found upstream. Aggie 1 and clinte234 had spotted them from camp and made their own plan.

We were halfway back to camp and we see Aggie 1 and clinte234 halfway across the river in the raft. I'm waving them down and they're just pointing at the caribou -- I'm thinking "no $H*% we see them -- we're trying to get both of us over there" -- as there were a lot of shooter bulls in that group.

Aggie 2 and I ended up having to cross at the low point in the river (which really wasnt that low -- my waders filled with water) and then were forced with another decision. We could cut up the front side of Franklin and meet up with Aggie 1 and clinte234 or work the backside in hopes that they would push them around. We chose to go around the back -- once up there -- Aggie 2 spotted an even larger group with what he deemed to have world class bulls. They were somewhere around 1500 - 2000 yards away and I'll never forget him saying "We have to do this..." -- the stalk was on.

We bolted across the tundra -- as much as I was capable of bolting -- the goal was to get within 700 yards...he was ahead of me and I was just trying to keep up. We get to a shooting spot and I have my rifle out ready to roll and Aggie 2 decides to move us to another spot a little closer ---

We both dart from our position and halfway to the next spot Aggie 2 is sopped up in water -- he gets himself out -- and shortly after -- i go down to my waist...by the time I get to the shooting point -- I can barely function to get my rifle set up and stable -- he's a little bit ahead of me and turns and says "we got 'em -- oh we got em"

We finally get me situated and we pick out 3 bulls -- Aggie 2 has a camera set up on the one I locked in on -- well, so we thought -- i fired and Aggie 2 said "shoot him again, shoot him again...." and I look at him and am like "dude, i dropped him -- he's down....."

We were watching different bulls, so i messed up the video -- sorry Aggie 2!

I had shot the smaller one of the 3 --- oops...i wouldnt trade that bull for any of the others if it meant i get to keep the story and memory to go with it

6.5 Creedmoor - just under 300 yards

All said and done -- Aggie 2 and I covered what seemed like 20 miles of terrain --- it was probably more like 6-8 miles -- but it was a well-earned bull -- one thing to remember in Alaska is that it gives you nothing. Alaska provides for you when Alaska decides that you've earned your right to be provided for.

We were able to catch that group as they had slowed down to wait on the group being stalked by Aggie 1 and clinte234

I don't get to hunt very often and I have a hard time believing this trip will ever be topped. It was awesome.










clinte234
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clinte234
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Thanks wareagle for adding on!
PFG
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Got it
schmellba99: Hard to believe people are looking at what is happening and thinking this is something other than a flu like bug
mneisch
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Looking forward to some pictures, great write-up!
arrow
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Great stuff gentlemen. Congrats on the Caribou. I hope to do a trip just like it someday! I'm excited to see the pics.
ENG
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can't wait to see the pics
suburban cowboy
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Excellent post.

Funny how the OB complains about content and then this only gets 8 blue stars and 9 comments.
AgBQ-00
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Cannot wait for the Pics. Thanks for the write up. What was the hardest part logistically? and how did you go about choosing which unit you wanted to hunt?
HumbleAg04
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Rule #1 !!

Everyone should go watch the two episodes on Caribou in AK from this seasons Meat Eater. Likely will help visualizing the trip since... no pictures.

Sounds awesome.
stdeb11
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Awesome. Can't wait for the pics. It's on my list of hunts to do within the next 5 years so appreciate all the info.

Can't wait to see the pics.
Apache
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Awesome post!! Get those pictures up!
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wareagle044
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third coast.. said:

PIIIIIIIIIICCCCCTTUUUUUURRREEEES


I've added a few. I'm sure clinte234 will get his up soon

Here's some more









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wareagle044
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third coast.. said:

how bad were the mosquitos and flys? i have read many times that the flyss would blot out the sun they were so bad/

We went late enough that we didn't have any problems with insects. It had cooled off enough that they were a non-issue -- we had heard the same. I was told the mosquitoes there are on steroids -- the earlier months are when the bugs are supposedly bad -- I would imagine that location within the state has a lot to do with that as well -- we were in GMU 23


those pictures are great and not exactly what i was expecting.

and after seeing a human next to the downed animal, its insane that you only brought back 80 lbs of meat between the 4 of yall. what were the temps like? did anyones cape get ruined?

The bears were persistent. We fired over their heads and they would 1) Run off and come back 15 minutes later 2) Look at you like you were stupid...

On my pack out Aggie 1 and I were headed straight to the meat pile --- clinte234 and Aggie 2 spotted a bear coming from the other direction ready to meet us. clinte234 had the better vantage point on that one -- but Aggie 2 fired at a rock in direction of bear -- bear went toward our camp and sat down while we waited to cross the river with the rest of the meat from my pack out.

Not sure if clinte234 has a picture of that or not.

Temperature - Day 1 we were hiking around in short sleeves -- day 2 it was mild -- day 3 - cold, cloudy and rainy 4 - 6 was mild for the most part

I would say the highs were in the 50's but anytime cloud came over you would have a 20 degree swing in temperature in an instant. It was down in the 20s at night -- every morning I put on a frozen pair of boots

Everyone's cape came back intact -- however, Aggie 1's cape was stolen by the bear one night ---- the bear drug it off into the alders and licked all of the salt off of it --- Aggie 1 and 2 --- armed with their sidearms --- followed a salt trail left by the bear dragging it away -- they found it pretty quick.....for the most part it was undamaged, but the nose has some character..

Tx-Ag2010
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That looks like an awesome trip. Me, my brothers, and dad are planning something similar in the next year or two...

As I was reading through the posts I kept thinking to myself 'man, this would be a ton of fun and a great bear combo hunt' unfortunately as with most things it doesn't look like it's legal unless accompanied by a guide or a resident who is related to you.
Tx-Ag2010
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As a side note, it looks like Alaska is why they make bear resistant coolers. Although I'm not sure I'd want to lug a 50-75# cooler into the mountains.

What kind of gear did y'all bring? Did you have any prior to the trip, or was it all purchased prior to this trip? I ask because I don't have any mountain hunting/hiking gear and would likely need to purchase everything new.
wareagle044
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Tx-Ag2010 said:

As a side note, it looks like Alaska is why they make bear resistant coolers. Although I'm not sure I'd want to lug a 50-75# cooler into the mountains.

What kind of gear did y'all bring? Did you have any prior to the trip, or was it all purchased prior to this trip? I ask because I don't have any mountain hunting/hiking gear and would likely need to purchase everything new.
We were all a little bit different, but I was in the same boat as you -- I did not have a lot of gear fit for anything more than South Texas/East Alabama

What I had prior to trip:

Eberlestock pack
Havalon knife set
My rifle
Under Armour balaclava
Under Armour base-layer
My Army issued rain gear (upon further review would've spent money to get Sitka rain gear as my buddy looked very warm in it while it was raining)
Minimal mild-climate Kryptek camo (which I was able to use)
Sleeping bag

What I purchased:

Sitka Jetstream Jacket
Sitka Jetstream Vest
Sitka Core Heavyweight Zip-T
Sitka Timberline Pant
Sitka beanie
Sitka Ascent Glove (probably could've used something a little more waterproof)

Chota Caney Fork Wading Boots paired with Chota Tundra Wading Hippies (the best purchase i could have made)

Vortex Diamondback Binos; badlands bino harness with cabelas gift cards

550 cord (wish i had brought more)
Wool socks
Emergency Blanket
side-arm holster

Most all of the camping equipment was provided by Ram Aviation -- they had 2 tents, meals for 4 each day, extra candy, kool aid, coffee, snacks, utensils, cots, propane, grill
fightingfarmer09
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Too bad you would've needed an extra plane to take a Yeti out there.
Tx-Ag2010
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Thanks. It looks like I have a rough (expensive) couple years ahead of me... fortunately I have most of the Sitka covered.
FinanceWildcat
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I bought a Z-Custom 6.5 CM from Derek and the folks at Horizon a few months ago, for our Africa trip next summer. Similar iota stock with the gold and black camo pattern. I'm stoked to see how well it shoots- it looks like y'all had no trouble at all with accuracy and reliability at longer ranges!

Congrats on the bulls; this sounds like a trip of a lifetime!
clinte234
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Pictures added to the OP!
PFG
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You dudes did it right.

And suppressed too! I'm sure the hunting partner appreciated that can.

schmellba99: Hard to believe people are looking at what is happening and thinking this is something other than a flu like bug
clinte234
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AgBQ-00 said:

Cannot wait for the Pics. Thanks for the write up. What was the hardest part logistically? and how did you go about choosing which unit you wanted to hunt?
Thanks BQ!

Logistically it really wasn't that difficult. One of the guys in our group works in the outdoors/firearms industry so we were fortunate to have good connections through him. He was able to talk to several people that had done similar hunts in years past. That is how we decided to go with Ram Aviation...and Ram works out of Unit 23.

They provided everything we needed for camping and eating minus a sleeping bag and our personal gear.

Getting what little meat we had left plus antlers back was kind of a pain...we just paid and had it all checked as extra baggage. It was a lot, but not too bad when we split it four ways.

There are other herds you can hunt in Alaska. You can even drive from Anchorage to some places, but we decided to go for the full Alaskan bush plane experience!
clinte234
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HumbleAg04 said:

Rule #1 !!

Everyone should go watch the two episodes on Caribou in AK from this seasons Meat Eater. Likely will help visualizing the trip since... no pictures.

Sounds awesome.
Ha...we were laughing the other night about how much prettier the landscape was on those MeatEater episodes. That was the 40 Mile Herd in a totally different part of AK. Maybe that will be next!
Aggie Pharmer
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Did you eat the eye fat and did it taste like pizza dough?
clinte234
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Tx-Ag2010 said:

As a side note, it looks like Alaska is why they make bear resistant coolers. Although I'm not sure I'd want to lug a 50-75# cooler into the mountains.

What kind of gear did y'all bring? Did you have any prior to the trip, or was it all purchased prior to this trip? I ask because I don't have any mountain hunting/hiking gear and would likely need to purchase everything new.
wareagle did a good job explaining things...we were only allowed 70 pounds each on the plane so a cooler was definitely not an option.

I definitely cut some corners as far as my clothing went. I'm the one guy without any Sitka gear on in the pictures! My family goes skiing in the winter so I was able to use quite a bit of my layering system from that. I bought some Helly Hanson rain gear off of Ebay for cheap. This is the rain gear everyone is AK recommends.

The one piece of gear I wish I had but didn't was the Chota boots and Hippie waders that go with them. The other three guys had them and they were perfect for the amount of water we walked through. I dealt with cold, wet feet the whole week, which didn't ruin my experience or anything, but it did make it more uncomfortable.

I definitely spend under $500 on clothing and gear, but again I was able to spread this out over 6 months and find decent deals on stuff.

I would also suggest a light weight hunting pack that you can also use to pack out meat with.
clinte234
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Aggie Pharmer said:

Did you eat the eye fat and did it taste like pizza dough?
Ha...didn't see that MeatEater episode until we got back....we did not.
Tx-Ag2010
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clinte234 said:

Tx-Ag2010 said:

As a side note, it looks like Alaska is why they make bear resistant coolers. Although I'm not sure I'd want to lug a 50-75# cooler into the mountains.

What kind of gear did y'all bring? Did you have any prior to the trip, or was it all purchased prior to this trip? I ask because I don't have any mountain hunting/hiking gear and would likely need to purchase everything new.
wareagle did a good job explaining things...we were only allowed 70 pounds each on the plane so a cooler was definitely not an option.

I definitely cut some corners as far as my clothing went. I'm the one guy without any Sitka gear on in the pictures! My family goes skiing in the winter so I was able to use quite a bit of my layering system from that. I bought some Helly Hanson rain gear off of Ebay for cheap. This is the rain gear everyone is AK recommends.

The one piece of gear I wish I had but didn't was the Chota boots and Hippie waders that go with them. The other three guys had them and they were perfect for the amount of water we walked through. I dealt with cold, wet feet the whole week, which didn't ruin my experience or anything, but it did make it more uncomfortable.

I definitely spend under $500 on clothing and gear, but again I was able to spread this out over 6 months and find decent deals on stuff.

I would also suggest a light weight hunting pack that you can also use to pack out meat with.
That's not a ton of gear if you count rifles, camo, and other stuff. I might have to try this tactic...

clinte234
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Ha...the 70 pounds did not include your rifle, and then they already had all of the camping gear and food on the plane. It really wasn't that hard to "make weight"
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