I bought a high pressure system (1000 psi) last year and this is what I've learned. I live in the BCS area for humidity reference. Here's my experience. They work very well if the layout is designed appropriately, so through trial and error, here is what I learned (I'm sure there is an engineer that can apply math to this for a more straight forward answer.
The mist is the key, too fine of a mist is a problem and too big of a mist is a problem. Several things affect that dynamic. The mist nozzle size itself (.015".010", .008", .006", etc). Height of the mist nozzle from the height of the targeted cooling "zone". The space between the nozzles is important. Whether it is sunny or shaded makes a difference.
The height I installed my nozzles at was 10 ft. With my humidity and no wind the .008" size nozzle was too big, meaning the mist would get to me without evaporating and leave me damp. Switched to .006" and that solved that problem, but that meant overall less mist being deployed overall so now my nozzles were too far apart ( dead zones). The dead zones have a huge capacity to soak up the BTU energy you just got rid of in the active zones. To evaporate a gallon of water takes 8700 BTUs, by using that 8700 BTU to evaporate the water, the air left after that reaction is cool (or at least cooler than before, 8700 BTU cooler). So if you have dead zones the cool air you just created reacts with the hot air from the dead zone rendering it useless, or at a minimum drastically reducing its effectiveness. So in my case, I had to install a nozzle every 2.5 foot. Then came the problem because of the orientation of my outdoor kitchen, half of it is shaded, the other half isn't. So I had to go back to the bigger nozzles in the sunny area, smaller nozzles in the shady areas. And then comes the problem from the wind, having no wind is bad, having too much wind is bad. So, some sort of air moving technique is good for still days, I have 4 ceiling fans. On really windy days you just turn it off. On mildly windy days I crank up the PSI on the pump to 1200 and hope to get half the area cooler. Then as the sun goes down you either turn down the pressure to as low as you can go without burning up the pump, or mine has a mode that turns the mister on in intervals (1 min on 1 min off, etc.).
So that system you are looking at from Jetstream could work if their conditions are met. They state must be 10-12' ceiling, I would say there is no wiggle room there, if you have 9' ceilings and think that's not a big deal, you would be wrong. It looks like they have a built in fan that is ducted, delivering the necessary air movement to the desired location could be a positive, but it won't be if someone is not in the ducted region. My guess is your talking big money to have everything concealed like that, while it looks really good, I have high pressure stainless steel tubing for my system and have sprung a couple of leaks over the course of the summer, they were easy enough to fix when everything is exposed. It looks like their system would be a nightmare scenario for a leak. Which brings me to another lesson learned, these mister nozzles holes are very small, you must have SOFT water going into the system. Any calcium or the like will plug the nozzle and a leak will occur, you need large capacity filters on the front end that can move debris and a phosphate filter to remove the calcium and dissolved solids, if you can implement a reverse osmosis system, all the better. If all my tubing and connections were concealed like they have it, a RO system would be mandatory.