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Best way to sight in thermal scope?

1,937 Views | 13 Replies | Last: 6 yr ago by skelso
cbr
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AG
I assume either hot rocks or a can full of ice.

Any better ideas?
Mantis Toboggan MD
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AG
Hog balls.
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junior200414
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AG
Hand warmer packets
BCStalk
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We use the small hand warmers stapled to a target. You might have to use ice in the heat that we have now though. Our targets usually warm up too much to tell the difference in summer.
normaleagle05
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AG
This seems like a great excuse to buy the biggest laser in the big laser catalog!
Todd 02
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AG
Wear thermal underwear?
Chickenhawk
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No. Put thermal underwear on hog. Zero on nuts. Shoot in nuts. Done.
highvelocity
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AG
Steel target. Plumbers torch.

You're welcome
skelso
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AG
There are a lot of things you can use. It doesn't have to be hot, you just need a temp gradient. In the past I have used: water bottles from the ice chest, ice cubes in a zip lock bag, foil tape, hand/foot warmer packs, frozen pancakes, frozen grapes, and I'm sure a few other things I can't remember at the moment...

Keep in mind, the larger the gradient, the more heat radiation you will get which makes the target look larger than it is. Turning your brightness and contrast down will help a bit.

What I use now are 1/4" fender washers. They are about 1 1/8" outer diameter. I just put a screw or nail into the backstop and hang them. I do not heat or cool them first. They will absorb heat at a different rate than the backstop material which gives enough heat gradient.
reddog90
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AG
I've used black electrical tape to make a cross on cardboard. Sitting in the sun, the black tape is hotter than the cardboard.
skelso
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AG
Something I forgot to add...

You can usually see the point of impact due to the heat given off by friction as the bullet passes through but it doesn't stay long. I like to use cardboard as my backing. After I shoot, I pick up the spent brass and stick it in the hole. This gives me a reference that will not fade.

I also sight in at no more than 50 yards, then move back and tweak if necessary. It's much easier to see the signatures from 50 than 100 when shooting for accuracy. Most of my rifles are about 1" low at 50 when dead on at 100.
BCStalk
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While we are on this subject. What do you consider a decent grouping for a thermal scope at 100. I typically get it as close as I can and live with about a 2-3" grouping from center.
highvelocity
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AG
thats about what i get, ive gotten it down to 1.5 a couple times taking my time, but that 2-3 works when you're aiming at a pigs head. youre gonna either hit skull or spine
BCStalk
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highvelocity said:

thats about what i get, ive gotten it down to 1.5 a couple times taking my time, but that 2-3 works when you're aiming at a pigs head. youre gonna either hit skull or spine


That's kinda my opinion as well. As long as the pig is down, the thermal is doing it's job.
skelso
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AG
2-3" at 100yd is generally close enough to kill pigs at the distances we typically shoot. When getting ready for a predator hunt, I dial them in a little better because 2-3" off at 100 can cause missed shots at 200+ on smaller animals.

I find the the problem grouping with thermal is usually due to heat radiation making it difficult to hold on exactly the same spot repeatedly.

There are also limitation caused by low res sensors. I forget which ATN scope you have but I'll use the THOR 336 1.5X for example. It has a 21 degree horizontal FOV. If I did the math correctly, that is about 38.5 yards (462 inches) wide at 100 yard distance. The sensor is 336 pixels wide. 462 inche's divided by 336 pixels equals roughly 1.4 inches wide per pixel.

Try the washer with scope adjusted as I described and I bet your group tightens up a bit.
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