I am thinking about converting one of my closets into a gun safe of sorts. I know the fire proofing would be next to impossible, but it's more of a security/kid proof space for my guns.

Has anyone ever undertook a project like this or know of someone who has?

Any good recommendations or thoughts y'all might have on this?

I've done this in the past. Again, fireproofing wasn't the point, but having a semi-secure area helped. I removed them the original door and frame, and replaced with a solid exterior door and jam. Put in a larger strike plate and a combination lock. Took a weekend to get it all in.

It won't make it fireproof, but you could line the walls and ceilings with two layers of type X gyp board and seal the edges with fire barrier caulk. Won't help the house from, God forbid, crashing down around or on top of it, but will provide some fire resistance.

Fireproofing - drywall. Each layer adds about 20-30 mins of fire resistance. As long as the "box" doesn't collapse, 2-3 layers of thick drywall will resist heating from fire a good long time.

Awesome, didn't know that about the drywall. All good suggestions that I will use.

FYI, fire rated drywall doesn't mean squat if the door is already burnt down. Make sure the door is solid or even fire rated. The closer to the floor, the better. Would also recommend not having carpet inside the room past the door edge. Try and keep flammable materials out of there as much as possible.

https://www.certainteed.com/drywall/what-difference-between-regular-and-type-x-gypsum-board/

https://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-10-1-fl-oz-Fire-Barrier-Sealant-Caulk-CP-25WB-Plus-CP-25WB


https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.awc.org/pdf/codes-standards/publications/dca/AWC-DCA3-FireRatedFloorWall-1007.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwiZkPuT-57XAhVaVWMKHe1nA7oQFghzMAc&usg=AOvVaw2o-oYUfD3kUXeghUnK_dE9

Lots of great ideas out there.

Doors

Op - grew up in a house where one of the hall closets was a solid door deadbolt locked closet for gun and valuable storage. Only Dad had the key. Not fireproof or a saferoom, but perfectly capable of doing by its job. I was te kind of kid who never would have snooped around without dad, but it kept friends and siblings friends from stumbling into the guns when playing around or sleeping over.

The combo lock entry on the door posted by another poster is a great idea, unless you want it to appear more discreet to guests or service techs, as I found the locked deadbolt fixture didn't grab anyone's attention or draw ones eyes to the door. I did this in my first home as well. Worked great for many years.

If I was doing it and was looking for cheap ways to make it more fire rating and secure (non cmu build), I'd think about the following.

I'd personally remove the drywall. You could double or triple the number of studs so the spacing is less than 6". Even in the attic above. Even better would be to replace with metal framing. Double up on gypsum board including the ceiling. Add a crap load of outlets for dehumidifiers, gadgets, and lights. Use metal shelving and seal the concrete foundation (no flooring). Others have covered the door.

I have a fairly large gun safe tucked into a small closet specifically made for it.

The closet door is hooked up to the house burglar alarm.

The closet doorknob is non-functional. When you turn it, it just spins but does not move any lock parts.

The door will only open by using the key to move the deadbolt.

Seems like the cost and effort would be about the same as having an actual safe delivered and bolted down.

I'm doing the same - one crazy idea I had was putting up hardiboard over the Sheetrock and on the inn side of the door for a little fireproofing

Is that crazy?

I've used hardi on extrerior walls for a two story structure and it passed code for fireproofing - that's where I got the idea

Obviously it wouldn't do much for heat but not sure it's worth it for even a small fire (?)

Browning has a door for this purpose -

Drywall is easy to break through. Line the walls with 3/4 plywood, then gypsum board on top of that for fire resistance.

Mr. Dubi said:

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Drywall is easy to break through. Line the walls with 3/4 plywood, then gypsum board on top of that for fire resistance.

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If you're looking for breakthrough resistance, how about steel? Even a light steel would be very hard for a casual thief to break through. Obviously it would be child's play for a thief with time and tools, but even 28 gauge between plywood sheets would slow someone down a lot.

CanyonAg77 said:

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Mr. Dubi said:

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Drywall is easy to break through. Line the walls with 3/4 plywood, then gypsum board on top of that for fire resistance.

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If you're looking for breakthrough resistance, how about steel? Even a light steel would be very hard for a casual thief to break through. Obviously it would be child's play for a thief with time and tools, but even 28 gauge between plywood sheets would slow someone down a lot.

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Most safes are child's play for a thief with time and tools.

I have considered one of those doors before. Interesting solution.

pow said:

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Most safes are child's play for a thief with time and tools.

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Dad (and his dad) always used to say that locks were for honest people. Thieves don't care.

While I agree with Canyon, it seems like a lot of effort to build something that can be defeated in 60 seconds with this:

If you're just looking for something to keep honest people honest, cheap RSC "safe" with fire proofing bolted in place seems like a better return on your time and money.

Mr. AGSPRT04 said:

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While I agree with Canyon, it seems like a lot of effort to build something that can be defeated in 60 seconds with this:

If you're just looking for something to keep honest people honest, cheap RSC "safe" with fire proofing bolted in place seems like a better return on your time and money.

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I would wager the number of home invasions where a reciprocating saw was used would be damn near zero.

The function of a gun safe/room is to keep kids from accessing guns, and delaying thieves.

In which case, the cheap RSC safe is the cheaper and less time consuming option.

Mr. AGSPRT04 said:

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In which case, the cheap RSC safe is the cheaper and less time consuming option.

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But much smaller than a walk in closet.

Man.... did one of these lately, but have not finished with the door above and just have the old, solid wood door with skeleton key lock for now.

Our home is 100 years old with stout tongue-in-groove, ship-lap (no studs to locate), so I had an advantage there plus the closet is very hidden in the way it was built into the house.

I am not handy, but it turned out pretty well. Will try to post before and after pics.

powerbelly51 said:

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Mr. AGSPRT04 said:

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In which case, the cheap RSC safe is the cheaper and less time consuming option.

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But much smaller than a walk in closet.

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Yeah, I've looked at a gun safe for an existing closet. It's hard to get a safe that fits your closet.

CanyonAg77 said:

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powerbelly51 said:

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Mr. AGSPRT04 said:

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In which case, the cheap RSC safe is the cheaper and less time consuming option.

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But much smaller than a walk in closet.

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Yeah, I've looked at a gun safe for an existing closet. It's hard to get a safe that fits your closet.

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Or big enough that you don't have to disassemble the closet to get it in anyway.

Depending on the setup and door size, you might consider using a hidden bookshelf door, ie looks like a built in book shelf but swings out as a door. you can still secure it from children and its less obvious as a door for theives.

https://www.themurphydoor.com/

I looked at a house that hd a rollup door mounted inside the closet. Still had the regular door on the outside but all you had to do was lower the rollup door and lock it and close the closet door.

Definitely consider moisture and heat in the room if it is sealed and not ventilated. My parents have a similar room and have moisture issues. Getting a dehumidifier for the room did help.

Make sure if you put a bunch of outlets or any other type of penetrations through the drywall that you seal them with putty pads. I'm not sure what the official name is, but they're made by 3M and used to wrap around the back of plastic electrical boxes to keep them from melting during a fire and giving the fire a path through the drywall.

Mr. Dubi said:

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Drywall is easy to break through. Line the walls with 3/4 plywood, then gypsum board on top of that for fire resistance.

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The way I have always done this is to cover the exterior of the room with 3/4 plywood attached with screws. I have also done it with chicken wire over the studs on the outside, then 3/4 plywood, then drywall

stridulent said:

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Definitely consider moisture and heat in the room if it is sealed and not ventilated. My parents have a similar room and have moisture issues. Getting a dehumidifier for the room did help.

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This.

I completely sealed mine including striping on the door frame which makes the door a little tight to close. I also use 2 of the bead-based dehumidiers that you plug-in to dry out the beads. Have one in the safe as well. Have a gauge for humidity as well... Stays around 30-40% if I leave the light on for a little extra heat.

Bumping. Thinking about doing something similar. Have a closet with heavy / solid wood door.

Thinking about Just switching out the current closet knob with one with a key and then adding a smaller fireproof safe inside for small valuables. When on vacation it would be secured by exterior door, alarm, office door, and then closet door. Not a perfect option but think it would be a good, low cost option. Like having my stuff inside house.

Anything I may be missing?

bumping again....probably posted too late last night to get much traction...

I did this same thing about a year ago when I had the luxury of a new build. I took an interior closet in the office and had the contractor make it an F3 rated tornado room/gun safe/safe room. With shelving for the ammo boxes and special liquor bottles.

Basically it has 2 sheets of 3/4 inch plywood, opposite grain, walls and ceiling, with drywall on both sides of that. Solid core door, reinforced hinges, combo lock. People cannot really believe it unless they see how wide the interior of the door frame is.

I am very happy with the result. Between the Ring cameras and the "Fraidy Room", I feel the guns are pretty safe.