For the first time in over 30 years. Just decided why not? Taking the wife along, as she likes hiking and photography. I've never been out that way in the winter. I was thinking of staying in a cheap Terlingua hotel, or maybe a bit of tent camping given the weather is supposed to be dry and low 40's to mid 60's.

Been so long since I've been there, what do I have to see? I will have the Nissan, so I can get down any 4x4 trails in the park or on the ranch.

Spent a few days camping there over Thanksgiving with the family with kids (8&10). We had a blast.
If your wife is up for it, I highly recommend tent camping in the park if anything to cut back on the driving. Get a blow up air mattress and it will be fine.

We had to camp at Cottonwood because the Basin was full, but you may be able to snag a campsite (Basin) if you get there early.

We hiked the following trails: The Window, Cattail Falls, Santa Elena Canyon and Grapevine Hills. I'd recommend them in that order as well. Several trails were closed because of high bear activity, probably still will be when you are there.

We had a flat tire that caused us to miss another hike. Was planning on Tuff Canyon or Burro Mesa pour off.

You'll have a great time... the stars are worth the drive alone. Shoot me a pm if you have any specific questions.

Thanks!

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the stars are worth the drive alone

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This cannot be overstated!

I'm leaving this Friday and will stay till Tuesday at the Holiday hotel in terlingua! Will do some hiking and I will make the trip to McDonald's observatory in Fort Davis. Will go to big bend via highway 90 because I heard it's more scenic. Will leave via I 10.

Was there three weeks ago. Love camping in the Basin campground. As Apache said, some of the higher trails (Lost Mine, South Rim, Pine Canyon) were closed due to bear activity. You should also drive up to Sotol Vista Overlook off of Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. It's as good as the South Rim view without the hike! A little known but nice hike is Devil's Den on NE corner of park.

If you go to Santa Elena, be sure and stop in Castolon Visitor Center and check it out.

MouthBQ98 said:

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For the first time in over 30 years. Just decided why not? Taking the wife along, as she likes hiking and photography. I've never been out that way in the winter. I was thinking of staying in a cheap Terlingua hotel, or maybe a bit of tent camping given the weather is supposed to be dry and low 40's to mid 60's.

Been so long since I've been there, what do I have to see? I will have the Nissan, so I can get down any 4x4 trails in the park or on the ranch.

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You should be good to go without 4x4. I talked to the park services and some locals about it in may. They said you just need the clearance of a truck/SUV.

However I did chicken out since I was in a 3 month old tundra and the local said I would most likely scratch the **** out of my paint on the ranch roads.

Maybe someone else can confirm or shoot down my understanding.

The trails are closed b/c of "stupid people" activity. The bears aren't doing anything, but idiots are getting too close and trying to take selfies with them.

Ol_Ag_02 said:

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MouthBQ98 said:

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For the first time in over 30 years. Just decided why not? Taking the wife along, as she likes hiking and photography. I've never been out that way in the winter. I was thinking of staying in a cheap Terlingua hotel, or maybe a bit of tent camping given the weather is supposed to be dry and low 40's to mid 60's.

Been so long since I've been there, what do I have to see? I will have the Nissan, so I can get down any 4x4 trails in the park or on the ranch.

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You should be good to go without 4x4. I talked to the park services and some locals about it in may. They said you just need the clearance of a truck/SUV.

However I did chicken out since I was in a 3 month old tundra and the local said I would most likely scratch the **** out of my paint on the ranch roads.

Maybe someone else can confirm or shoot down my understanding.

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Most of the dirt roads you only need the clearance, however, there are a couple that you need 4x4 for. there are some pretty gnarly sections in a few places, but the 4x4 roads are marked suggesting such. River Road is driveable, you just have to be careful and move slow. You can definitely get some "desert pin striping" if you aren't careful. You can pick up a guide to the dirt roads in any of the gift shops or ranger stations for like $2.

I can't speak much to the state park, as I've only had limited experience over there.

If your cool with not having access to a bathroom I highly recommend primitive camping with the truck. Did that back in March. Much better than any of the more public campsites where you have other people around you.

Also most trials you will be fine with 2wd and truck / suv clearance. Most the roads are wide enough for a full size but you will get a few scratches from some of the bushes and such that stick out a little far.

State park isn't too crazy; expect rough roads, but not a 4x4 off-road park. If it's rainy, good luck. There are no intentional obstacles, but they're largely not maintained, either.

Biggest hazard out there is the lack of people. No cell service, no one on a CB, no traffic on the roads. We went in May and didn't see anyone from the time we left the ranger station until we came back a week later.

If you plan on doing any adventure driving, bring everything you'd need to self recover. We had to use two spares (simultaneously) after a bad sidewall incident that could have left us stranded.

National Park is great. We'll be there Christmas-New Years timeframe.

The roads are cautiously marked. I didn't come across any spots that specifically needed 4wd, but it often helped with loose rock and such. Expect to get scratches, and just accept it; you can always buff them out later.

As I said for the SP, bring what you'd need for self recovery. You'll run across people on those roads frequently enough to not be stranded, but it can mean the difference between a couple hours of work and an all day affair.

update from the NPS, as of a couple hours ago:

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Update on bear closures as of noon on Wednesday, December 7:
As bear activity begins to decline along with bear and people interactions, park management has decided to open the Lost Mine Trail and some of the previously closed backcountry campsites and zones on a trial basis.
Along with the Lost Mine Trail being open, the following backcountry camping will be reopened: Laguna Meadows, Laguna West, and Juniper and Blue Creek camping zones. The following will remain closed due to recent bear activity: Toll Mountain, Boot Canyon 1-4, Colima 1-3, Juniper Canyon 1, and Southwest Rim 2 campsites.
As we continue to assess bear activity in the park we will modify closures accordingly, to keep people safe and bears healthy and wild. Remember: do not harass, approach, or feed wildlife. Do not linger near bears- give them the space they need to protect their young, travel safely, and eat wild food. We thank everyone for continuing to share this park with our unique wildlife!

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I was out there the first of November.

Definitly pull off at the Sotol Vista overlook.

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or maybe a bit of tent camping given the weather is supposed to be dry and low 40's to mid 60's.

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The last time I went we wound up staying up high in Pine Canyon and the wind was pretty brutal. I'd keep an eye out on the wind this time of year if you go camping in the higher elevations.
Black Gap Road is about as bad as the roads get in the park, and it's not too bad.

Other than that, make no plans and just enjoy the trip.

Luna's jacal is pretty cool. It's on Old Maverick road. Calling it a road is muy generous. Check out the ruins near Cottonwood. You can get some cool ass pics of Santa Elena from their windows. If you have passports you can go across to Boquillas.

If you are going to/from Santa Elena to/from terlingua, old maverick road is a great option. It's not that bad of a drive, and doable in a car (unless it's rained recently). Some great views and you can stop to check out luna's jacal.

I'm heading to Big Bend on the 28th and am planning on spending a few nights in the park. I've heard it's really busy the week between Christmas and New Years. Will I be able to get a backcountry camping spot for the day I arrive? I have a 4x4 Silverado so I should be able to get to most spots.

Also, the hikes I'm for sure wanting to do are the South Rim and Santa Elena Canyon. What are other good recommendations?

Well, staying in Fort Stockton on my way back. Great trip even though it wasn't long. Lots of day hikes, back country 4x4 trail driving, and tons of wildlife, including a pretty close up bear sighting.

Had a mountain lion walk through camp in the basin last winter. The window is a nice little hike and emery peak if you want a bit more.

We ended up hiking up to pinnacles the first day, then the altitude and conditions were affecting the wife some so we stopped there. The next day we did the river road from Rio Grande village to Cottonwood, with a detour up Glenn Springs and across Black Gap. The next day we did the little Santa Elena canyon trail, and some local short hikes, drove the scenic drive back to Chisos Basin, and hiked some of the window, and today we started early and day hiked out to the south rim through Laguna meadows and back around boot canyon or whatever it is to the pinnacles and down.

Yeah, I saw something that calculated I burned between 5500 and 6000 calories today.

Forgot to mention the weather was PERFECT every day. Lows in the low 40's, highs in the low to mid 70's. Sunny with a few wisps of high clouds to accent the sunrises and sunsets, and superp visibility..ie we could clearly see as far as the curvature of the earth allowed. Not hAze at all.

We got a nice video of a big black bear sow with 3cubs we walked up on drinking from a spring at a trail junction. They retreated up the hill pretty quick. Also got within a few feet of some very docile mule deer feeding along side the trails.

Saw:
Fox
Coyotes
Black bear
Mule deer
Porcupine
Turkey (on way)
Squirrel
Cottontail rabbit
Jackrabbit
Chipmunk
Several types of raptors
Lots of bird species
More wildlife than I expected.

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If you have passports you can go across to Boquillas.

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We crosssed there 10-12 years ago, Pat, and I don't recall showing a passport, or even seeing any officials from either country. Is this a recent change, or is my memory poor?

It changed in June 2009. You need a passport or passport card.

3 cubs! Wow... they really did have a lot to eat.
I wish we would have seen a bear or a porcupine. We did see Javelina & Antelope though. Not so easy to see wildlife when your kids are yakking it up on the trail with you!

BoerneGator said:

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If you have passports you can go across to Boquillas.

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We crosssed there 10-12 years ago, Pat, and I don't recall showing a passport, or even seeing any officials from either country. Is this a recent change, or is my memory poor?

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They closed the informal crossing after 9/11 and re-opened with a passport scanner or something several years back. I haven't been since they opened it but would like to go to Boquillas, or whatever is left. I did buy a sotol walking stick and little wire scorpion the last time I was down there.

Potcake said:

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BoerneGator said:

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If you have passports you can go across to Boquillas.

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We crosssed there 10-12 years ago, Pat, and I don't recall showing a passport, or even seeing any officials from either country. Is this a recent change, or is my memory poor?

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They closed the informal crossing after 9/11 and re-opened with a passport scanner or something several years back. I haven't been since they opened it but would like to go to Boquillas, or whatever is left. I did buy a sotol walking stick and little wire scorpion the last time I was down there.

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its a pretty simple process. you scan your passport at a kiosk and pick up a phone to talk to someone in el paso. they ask you a couple questions and you are done.

I got checked more by the border patrol driving to and from the park. Partly because I decided to take 90 since I had never been that way.

MouthBQ98 said:

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I got checked more by the border patrol driving to and from the park. Partly because I decided to take 90 since I had never been that way.

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Doesn't matter which way you go, BP is all over that area.

Marauder Blue 6 said:

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It changed in June 2009. You need a passport or passport card.

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Do you need one to rent one of the burros?

BoerneGator said:

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Marauder Blue 6 said:

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It changed in June 2009. You need a passport or passport card.

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Do you need one to rent one of the burros?

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That requires a Mexican DL, duh!

[url=https://flic.kr/p/PMo3rJ][/url]

Great pic - it's been too many years (7 this month) since I've been out there.