I've been on the fence about buying a set of chainsaw chaps, but last week my dad had a near miss, he very narrowly avoided a serious accident.

I'm going to buy a set for each of us (Happy Father's Day).

Is one brand better than another for protection or comfort, or are they all pretty much the same?

They are worth it. I could have used a pair about 30 years ago.

paging Ursus.

IIRC, Lowe's sells an economic set. Don't know the quality though.

I use Stihl chaps. The one time I had a mishap I'm glad I had them on or else I would have been stitched up pretty bad. Anytime I'm out using the chainsaw I almost always wear some heavy protective clothing no matter how hot it may get. I'm not one to take chances with that piece of equipment.

Never owned any, but see how these stack up against what's available local.

http://www.baileysonline.com/Safety-First-Aid/Protective-Clothing/Forestry-Chaps/Chaps/

appropriate user name

I am going to get some as well. Last year my dad and I were cutting firewood for the upcoming deer season. He got in a rush and tripped over some branches at his feet. He fell over and his hand got stuck on the throttle. The blade hit his upper left arm. I am not sure how it didn't take it off. This was the first time I am glad he is fat. I wrapped it real well and rushed over to the closest fire station where they were waiting on us. Luckily, he didn't hit anything major and they were able to cauterize the blood vessels. The EMS guys said they see it all the time and told me to get some chaps. They told me it would be almost impossible to keep someone from bleeding out if they hit the femoral artery. That incident certainly got my attention.

In addition, you might consider adding quick-clot to your first-aid kit.

Well put me in the camp of not knowing these things even existed.

I bet I am using the chain saw 3 weekends out of 4 for God knows how many years. Never had anything close to an accident (that I can recall) but looks like something to have.

Thanks

I've been known to use the saw in flip flops and shorts. I think my wife would kill me if she found out. It's just so darn hard using the right PPE when it's near 100 degrees out.

I've used Stihl and Husquvarna chaps. The huskies were a little less expensive. They also had a couple more buckles on the legs than Stihl chaps. The extra buckles meant I didn't snag the legs on brush and tree limbs near as much as work the Stihl chaps. They both appear to about equal in quality of the fabric.

Cut for years without them, but own a pair now.

Rather than wait for other recs....

I have these:

http://www.baileysonline.com/Safety-First-Aid/Protective-Clothing/Forestry-Chaps/Chaps/Labonville-Full-Wrap-Chainsaw-Safety-Chaps.axd

Ive had them for several years. They feel heavy duty although I have nothing to compare them to and all the buckles are easy to work even with gloves. They are hot but not unbearable.

One year, alone, a limb shifted and my saw landed on top of my leg. Fortunately the chain and motor were already slowing down and almost stopped when it hit my jeans and cut my leg. A literal scrape and some blood......and thats it. Healed in two days and these chaps were purchased day 3. LOL.

I also have a hardhat with the little flip down screen and built in earmuffs. I know I look like im about to go to work in the forest, but I feel like its worth it.

I bought my chaps purely based on a youtube video.



So...YES..I recommend them.

I notice on the sthil video demonstration that it says no good for electric. That makes me wonder if the saw doesn't have a brake function like all do now if they will still be as effective. I know they will be better than nothing but one of our big saws is a 9hp Homelite. That thing is amazing but scary at the same time. I will be buying a pair before doing lots of lumber work for sure in the future.

Most of the electrics don't have the integral brake in the clutch, so the chain could still keep spinning at full-ish power, as long as it doesn't throw the chain. They are generally weaker motors, but still plenty capable of slicing through a lot more than you bargained for.

Granted I haven't had years in the industry, or handled timber professionally, but I paid for a few semesters at A&M clearing brush over the summers, and have handled Stihls with bars up to 36". I never wore chaps till I had a chain snap and wrap itself up my leg. Ever since then I cover myself in as much PPE as I can.

Also, with those bigger saws, watch the pros and how they handle them. There are a few little tricks/tips that make it infinitely safer to start/use. I always used to free hand it on the start, till I went from a 16" bar to the big boy, and as soon as it started, that rotational energy kicked the bar up, and a lot closer to my face than I cared for. Ever since then, that handle is locked between my legs when I kick it on.

Lastly, I hope it goes without saying, but DO NOT stand on the right side of that big boy.

That's what I was thinking. There is no brake in the clutch on this saw either. I have been using it since I was big enough to safely handle it. There is no free handing it. Stupid thing weighs about 45-55lbs. And with that saw there are more reasons not to stand on the right side besides the safety aspect. It throws shavings all over and the exhaust is on that side and with the fuel oil mixture you would get nice and covered.

Do yall normally order online, or is there a good place in the Houston area to go to?

Ive always started my father's saw with the brake set and the throttle locked set then as soon as it fires up and I've got a good grip in the handle I kick the brake off and go back to the throttle and unlock it.

Thoughts?

I have the Husqvarna 531309565 Chain Saw Apron Chaps,

I am a taller guy (6'4") so that was a concern, but these adjust well. I have been happy with them and use them any time I use any of my larger bars (36"/50"/72")

Glad y'all are considering getting chaps. I wore them 8-10 hours/day near big fires, you can get used to the heat after having to treat someone who filleted their calf

Man, I would love to chop some wood with that. How old is that thing? My great-grandad used to have one of those old zipsaws, but he passed away before I was big enough to run it, and his wife liquidated it along with all his other toys.

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Man, I would love to chop some wood with that. How old is that thing? My great-grandad used to have one of those old zipsaws, but he passed away before I was big enough to run it, and his wife liquidated it along with all his other toys.

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My dad got it at an estate sale in 72, so late 60s probably. I went and looked it up it is a homelite 2000 auto. If I remember correctly that means it has the 115cc two stroke making 9-11hp new. I've cut 36in structural foam (equivalent of pine) and the saw didn't even care. It's a pain to get started but man once its running its a champ. There's actually a compression release to start it because otherwise you can't pull the cord hard enough to turn it over. We have a 36in bar on it now. I have a picture somewhere so ill have to post it.

I've always heard mixed things about starting it with the brake on. Remember I am by no means an expert or professional, but I've had guys that say they always do, and guys that say to never use the brake when ya start it. Both sides of the argument were old timers who were stuck in their way for whatever reasons.

On a lot of saws, I could never get a good hold with my foot just cause steel toes don't fit through the handles too well, and as soon as someone showed me the crotch trick I was sold. If ya got it gripped tight between your thighs, ya wont need the brake set cause that bar ain't going anywhere. Ever since I started using that method I don't set the brake on start, but I've also stopped using my buddies stihls, and use whatever poulan/homelite/random chainsaw I got running. Mine see a lot less use now that I'm just doing it on my house, and not neighbors with a few hundred acres. I don't pay myself well enough to afford the nice ones!

Unless you are in the fire biz, or cutting breaks on your property, save the extra cash and get the non-FR style for sure. I have used them when available to me, but do not and have not owned a pair.

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Unless you are in the fire biz, or cutting breaks on your property, save the extra cash and get the non-FR style for sure. I have used them when available to me, but do not and have not owned a pair.

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What's the reasoning behind that. Just money or are they hotter as well?

FR = Fire retardant and if you are cutting breaks now and then you can buy a FR spray just dont know how well it works. Just stay out of the fire and you will be better off...lol

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FR = Fire retardant and if you are cutting breaks now and then you can buy a FR spray just dont know how well it works. Just stay out of the fire and you will be better off...lol

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Yeah I don't care enough about anything up at the land right now to go in and cut fire breaks. I know FR from working in the offshore industy, I was just curious. Thanks for answering. I'll have to look up the Fr spray. Seems pretty neat if it actually works.

My guess is it works for a short time, work hard and rub on logs and whatnot and it probably is not as retardant. Just stay out of the fire and your not golden Pony Boy!

The old homelites are some big beasts. I know when I bought my larger saws in the 7-9hp range i decided then was a good time to invest in chaps.

I've forgotten a few times to hit the decompression valve. You will nearly dislocate your shoulder if you aren't careful.

When I used to cut a lot, it was when I went to the Husky 24 inch...that was long for me at the time and I wore headgear because of it. I could go back to the 20 inch and I felt fine. The extra bar and just a bit more power can really throw some mind games at ya.

Most likely not the best idea but after hurricanes my dad had me on the saw constant for days, by the third I would need a break cause it would start being able to be hard to lift my arms by the end of the day. I wouldn't just be cutting on the ground, it would be chest level, only every once and a while it would be head height or more. Talk about calisthenics.

here is a picture of the beast. 36in bar. The white box in the brown box is a standard size moving/computer paper box (about 16"x11") the red cloth key chain is 1"x(5 or 6")

Nice!

Oh my, that thing is a beauty.

Thanks for the recommendations guys!