I picked up the cheapo Stevens 200 from Academy a few years back, and it is about time that I get around to changing the trigger.

I see a lot of talk about just replacing the spring with some wire from a spinner bait. That seems redneck as **** and potentially dangerous. Should I not worry about it and see if $1 spring can improve this crappy trigger?

Or should I drop the $85-100 on an aftermarket replacement?

What are you finding as replacements for $85-$100?

I've been tossing around the idea of replacing the triggers in my two 200s.

I was a few bucks off 89-120

Rifle Basix:
http://www.riflebasix.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=181

SSS Competition
http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/triggers-parts/triggers/savage-competition-trigger-prod7389.aspx

Timney
http://www.timneytriggers.com/shop/timney-stevens-200-replacement-trigger.aspx

Thanks for the links.

The stock Stevens 200 trigger has an adjustment for pull weight (odd as that trigger is), that actually worked. It was honing (polishing, not cutting) the sear and hammer surfaces that really smoothed mine up. Originally felt like two pieces of sidewalk dragging against each other.
Try some 1000-1500 grit wet/dry paper w/ a light lubricant on the parts needing polish, working against a hard/flat surface.

quote:

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The stock Stevens 200 trigger has an adjustment for pull weight (odd as that trigger is), that actually worked. It was honing (polishing, not cutting) the sear and hammer surfaces that really smoothed mine up. Originally felt like two pieces of sidewalk dragging against each other.
Try some 1000-1500 grit wet/dry paper w/ a light lubricant on the parts needing polish, working against a hard/flat surface.

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I found a pretty good guide on how to work on the Savage trigger here
http://www.varminthunters.com/tech/savage/

I guess it makes sense to spend a few dollars and try this method first, but want to make sure I am not doing something insanely stupid and dangerous.

I'll advocate sticking with the stock trigger spring at first, and doing the "cleanup" work on the parts. For my rifle, going from 7 lbs and horrible creep, to 4 lbs and very minimal creep was fine for this budget rifle. Spend some time (and little $$), some Acraglas or equiv to stiffen up the stock forend. I bedded a piece of 1/4" keystock in mine

Edited to add: I had a second NIB Stevens 200 in 7-08 that I sold to a friend. He requested the same work on his trigger, and it readily responded to the work.

I would do the smoothing job as others have said with the original trigger. If you want to make a 4# trigger pull feel like 2# install a Ttrigger Shoe. You can find them on eBay for around $20.00 or so.

"working against a hard/flat surface" I always liked to use glass glued to a piece of plywood.

i couldn't resist cutting up an old spinner bait. Got it cut and bent today and it makes a hell of a difference.

I've got a fine diamond hone coming in the mail tomorrow, but I like the idea of working the trigger against a fixed flat surface.