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pecan log

3,021 Views | 12 Replies | Last: 10 yr ago by schmellba99
agrams
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With the cool weather, it was a good opportunity to get out and cut up a pecan log I've had sitting down for a few weeks. It was roughly 30"-36" in diameter and 8' in length, and will make some incredible desk tops. Each slab was cut 2.25" thick and the pair of mantles were cut at 6" thick. Some great dark heartwood in the middle that should make some real nice desk tops. I'm even tempted to make one for myself when the slabs are all dry. Of everything I have made, I still have a $99 ikea desk I use....





tmaggie50
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Very cool talent!

How much do you sell the tables for?
aggiesq
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How old was it?
Towns03
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awesome.
The_Waco_Kid
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If you're selling a 2.25" thick slab of it, I'm definitely interested. Beautiful wood.
12thAngryMan
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Out of curiosity, how do you treat the edges so they still look natural but hold up to daily use without wearing too much?
agrams
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sq, I didn't count rings, but I would guess around 75+ years. It was from an easement being cleared on lake brownwood, so the construction crew was going to push it into a pit and just burn it, so I am glad I could get something out of it.

TM/Duetscher, I really haven't quoted a price on these or anything made from them. I mainly got into milling due to the price of buying slabs, and I just enjoy doing it. If I was going to buy these from someone for a table/desk, I could expect to pay $500-1000 for the slab alone, and then finding one local is even more uncommon, so delivery/gas for pickup is another expense. If you get into walnut of this size, I could expect to pay $1000-1500 a slab for a simple slab, sizable mesquite is even worse. Then if it is a crotch/interesting figure, the price just keeps going up. I am still going to have to drop probably $100/board to have these kiln dried if I want to use them any time soon, otherwise I can expect to air dry them for 2+ years.

12th, in regards to the bark, these most likely won't hold the bark when it is all said and done, so I will remove the bark and hand profile the edges along the sapwood. Bark is nice, but it is brittle, so for a functional desk/tabletop I wouldn't recommend trying to keep the bark. If you do want the bark though, you really need to cut the tree in the winter. There is less sap/moisture in the cambium layer, so the bark is more 'tight' to the wood, and will have a better bond. For things such as natural edge bowls where I want to keep the bark, I will sometimes use ultrathing CA/superglue to soak into the cambium layer to strengthen the joint.

BaileyAg
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very nice!
Yep66
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Reel Aggies
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Misleading thread title! I was expecting a recipe for this. Now I'm hungry!

agrams
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srd66, the saw did great as it always does. I am getting better at reading when the chain is getting dull and when I need to touch up sharpen it. My filing technique is also a lot better with some practice lately, so I can touch up the chain in 5 minutes or so. Not bad for 218 links in the dang chain. We used the same chain all day and I touched it up with a file about every 3 cuts. I would make it about 2.5 cuts before I needed to fill the gas tank up and put more oil in the saw and in the auxiliary oiler. It takes two people to push the jig, and the guy pushing at the nose also has a hand oil pump that he puts on the chain as he sees needed.
agrams
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I got out this weekend to cut up the crotch from the big log and some mesquite logs that were taunting me:







This was a mesquite log that had been on the ground for 8 years. It is interesting (to me at least) to note that you can tell which way the log was laying, with the left side being sun up and drier, and the right side being face down and inviting bugs.


A long days work done. My sawing buddy got tired of seeing dove fly by, so he kept his shotgun on hand to shoot at any that flew by when we were taking a break...

sunchaser
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This is a lamp from a mesquite log that had the wasp like bugs invade the whole thing. I have dealt with them quite a bit in the area you are dealing with. I was told in Sanger that you really need to gas the wood when it's in that condition or they can come crawling out of the finished product.

schmellba99
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Stupid question:

How do you set the jig up when you start making the cuts so that you get the most advantageous cut and use of the log for the slabs? It is just arbitrary, or is there a method you use to make sure you are getting cuts parallel with the axis of the wood?
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