I am heading on a 3-day kayak trip on the Devil’s River in the next couple of weeks with a group of buddies. We will be sleeping on the river and all will be in solo sit-on-top kayaks. We are putting in at Del Norte and getting out at Big Satan. The flow and water level are low right now, but we’re hopeful that the relatively short trip will still allow plenty of time for fishing, etc.

Questions for those of have done this trip:

We are planning to sleep on islands in the river. Does anyone have any coordinates or mile markers for good size islands on this stretch? We will have 6-8 people plus yaks and tents, so it will take a big island or two decent size ones to fit us all.

Regarding water, I am planning to bring sufficient bottled, but wanted to have filtration/purification options as well. Any recommendations, or did you just drink from the river and live to tell about it?

What type of lures did you find to be most effective on the Devil’s?

We are very much looking forward to the trip. Any other advice is greatly appreciated, especially re gear you found invaluable or wish you’d had.

Doing the same thing with about 4 guys later this year. Never done a yak or anything like this. What yak do you recommend and what gear?

If you can make it up river to area that used to be devils river ranch (now state owns it-park) and at turkey bluff ranch there are some islands and up from there are some really deep pools w good fishing. We used to hunt turkey bluff (has a turkey and a deer pictograph) on the right heading up stream. Great place to hang out and good fishing. I'm going to miss that place-- they sold it.

Hope that helps. I ve never fine down stream so not sure how far that is from where you guys are putting in.

I've always heard of people starting at bakers crossing. The guy is a little creepy, but I think he will let you park there at his campgrounds.

That water is so clean I would not waste my time with bottled water.
And be careful about where you camp. The landowners are not known to be tolerable of trespassers. Ie. guns and such.

[This message has been edited by gumgardener (edited 6/6/2013 11:58p).]

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Doing the same thing with about 4 guys later this year. Never done a yak or anything like this. What yak do you recommend and what gear?

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I assume your group knows this, but access is limited and you need to get a pass to allow you on. Only 12 passes allowed per day IIRC. See the link at end of this post if you haven't checked on this yet.

First, I'd recommend getting some miles under your belt in a kayak before you go. I'm not as experienced as some of the guys I'm going with, but I've done several trips on other rivers before and I really wouldn't feel comfortable doing the Devil's on my very first trip. It's not the type of river you want to cut your teeth on.

As I said in my OP, I've never done the Devil's, but we've done a fair amount of planning and talking with others who have.

Because you have to bring everything with you, you should be thinking in terms of capacity with your kayak choice. You need to be able to carry all of your gear, and you don’t want to be riding too low in the water because you’re at or over capacity. This probably means longer and wider. Of course, the bigger you go, you will sacrifice some maneuverability. I think the sweet spot in terms of capacity and maneuverability is going to be in the 11’-12’ range.

I’m using an Ocean Drifter, which is long (12’6”--- maybe a tad too long for turning) and wide (32.5”, which makes for a very stable platform for fishing and tough to tip over on rapids). I’ve got two buddies using Native Manta Rays (12’ x 30”) and two using Jackson Coosas (11’2” x 34”). You’ll be in your yak for long days, so you will want to be sure to have a comfortable seat (the Coosa, especially, and Manta Ray have great seats standard). You’re going to want to have a couple of rod holders for your fishing poles, and an extra paddle to stick in your yak.

If you’re going in the hot months, long sleeves, long pants and wide-brimmed hat are recommended. The rays are supposed to be brutal coming off the water and sun exposure is the main cause for kayakers having to call in for assistance. Consider renting a sat phone for medical emergencies, since you will have almost no cell coverage the entire trip. One of the guys in our group is getting one.

You will need some good hard-toed kaying shoes (you’ll get beat up trying to use aqua socks or other cheap water shoes, and while old sneakers will work, they don’t drain or dry well). Solo tent (preferably a back-packer size for space reasons) and sleeping mat. I’m bringing a single blow-up mattress instead of my mat, since I have 500lb capacity to play with which I won’t get near. More liquids than you think you need (1.5 gals/day minimum in hot months), and/or a walter filter backup. If you’re comfortable just filtering the river water, and it is the cleanest river in TX, then you’ll save a lot of storage capacity and weight.

If you want a hot meal you will need to bring a cooking source since fires (a) aren’t allowed (burn ban in effect typically), and (b) decent wood can be hard to find even if you wanted to have one. Dry ice and/or a yeti if you want to keep things cold the whole time. Can also freeze some water bottles to keep things cold and drinking later in trip. Tackle, knife, lots of sunscreen, headlamps, bug net to cover face (when using head lamp at night the bugs will swarm you), extra hat, extra glasses w/croakies or other, first aid kit, fishing license.

There’s a list on the Devil’s River SNA site. You should check out the entire site, has a map, rules, gear list, etc.: http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/state-parks/devils-river/

If anyone has any tips re lures, islands, or other gear, please let us know.

[This message has been edited by DTP02 (edited 6/7/2013 10:36a).]

Just be glad deputy dog Wardlaw isn't the park ranger around Dolan falls any more. He'd write you a ticket for farting. His family has a ranch out there and he would take it upon himself to run people off. I've know lots of people that have done that trip, like it was said above, go prepared.

I have cabin on devils. If I see you floating down river. I will shoot off a shot gun in the air. So don't be afraid. I am celebrating your arrival. Gig em. Go to the Guadalupe.

Thanks for the information DTP 02. The guys I'm going with have done it before. I wasn't aware of the max capacity on the river. Are concealed weapons allowed?

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Thanks for the information DTP 02. The guys I'm going with have done it before. I wasn't aware of the max capacity on the river. Are concealed weapons allowed?

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I hope so!

Ever Any concerns in this area with drug runners and proximity to border?

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Ever Any concerns in this area with drug runners and proximity to border?

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I doubt this is an issue. They definitely come through very close to there, but the river itself is pretty much in a very rough canyon and I can't imagine illegals making their way down to it.

Be sure and troll while you paddle the yak. I caught 15-20 small mouth bass on a red rattle trap doing just this. Excellent trip - have fun and bring rain gear.

Agneck....screw you...you don't own the RIVER!

Thanks for the reply's. I've read over the TWPD site and am confident we'll be fine gear wise.

My two main questions are:
1: Is a 16" 2/3 man canoe going to work
2: How are logistics of leaving a car at drop off and pick up spots. Bakers Crossing and Rough Crossing.

I guess #3 would be:
Why are people afraid to go down this river on their first trip? So there are a few rapids you carry your boat around. Am I missing something?

[This message has been edited by Coin (edited 6/11/2013 1:13p).]

Coin,
it's not good for inexperienced people because of the remote location combined with very few legal public entry exit points. Once you begin, you're basically committing yourself to a 2-3 trip. If you are out of shape, have a medical emergency, get caught in a flash flood, etc. then you're in trouble because evacuation is not simple.

So if I'm in shape, not stupid and committed I'm good.

Will a 16" traditional canoe be OK provide the water level is adequate, or are there long stretches where I will be carrying the canoe and gear?

I actually just returned from doing the exact trip you mentioned. We started Friday morning and finished mid Sunday morning. I will see if I can dig up the map I had and give you the mile markers where we camped. The first night was a true island (we think and claim ) right below some huge mansion place. The 2nd I think we were just on a very low river bed area that may or not have fallen in legal camping area or not. I will report back if I can round it up. The trip was amazing and as mentioned above, the water is crystal clear. We do a canoe trip on a different river every year, and this was probably the fave so far, other than distance to get to it. Very isolated. Fishing was pretty damn good as well and we caught enough to feed 12 guys the final night. We stayed Thursday night at "Who Cares Bed & Breakfast," and they also rented us canoes. I may even come back with some pics to wet your appetite.

You will have to portage at least 2 spots, Dolan Falls (we went left) and another further down. There are several spots where you get into mild rapids and with a 2 person canoe and gear, you will drag and have to walk your canoe a short distance. It wasn't bad though.

We put in at the Del Norte SNA, around mile marker 15, paddled about 3-4 miles the first day and camped at a nice spot around mile marker 19 (our best guess, also where we saw the nice mansion at the top of a hill.) Next day we camped around mile marker 27 or 28, not quite sure which. This day was a hard paddle as the river widens up in a few spots and was very windy. To me this is the hardest part about this river. Wind would push us upstream if we didn't paddle. Last day we had about a 2 hour paddle to take out at Big Satan SNA. Great time! Let me know if you want anymore info. I had good luck on a small white spinner bait.

[This message has been edited by CBarrett12 (edited 6/12/2013 6:36a).]

[This message has been edited by CBarrett12 (edited 6/12/2013 6:54a).]

Nice representation for our friends at Yeti.

Thanks Barrett.

I think after checking the flow rates we may go with the Guadalupe. It has a better chance of getting more rain before we go. Plus, I'd like to take my daughter next time.

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I actually just returned from doing the exact trip you mentioned. We started Friday morning and finished mid Sunday morning. I will see if I can dig up the map I had and give you the mile markers where we camped. The first night was a true island (we think and claim ) right below some huge mansion place. The 2nd I think we were just on a very low river bed area that may or not have fallen in legal camping area or not. I will report back if I can round it up. The trip was amazing and as mentioned above, the water is crystal clear. We do a canoe trip on a different river every year, and this was probably the fave so far, other than distance to get to it. Very isolated. Fishing was pretty damn good as well and we caught enough to feed 12 guys the final night. We stayed Thursday night at "Who Cares Bed & Breakfast," and they also rented us canoes. I may even come back with some pics to wet your appetite.

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You will have to portage at least 2 spots, Dolan Falls (we went left) and another further down. There are several spots where you get into mild rapids and with a 2 person canoe and gear, you will drag and have to walk your canoe a short distance. It wasn't bad though.

We put in at the Del Norte SNA, around mile marker 15, paddled about 3-4 miles the first day and camped at a nice spot around mile marker 19 (our best guess, also where we saw the nice mansion at the top of a hill.) Next day we camped around mile marker 27 or 28, not quite sure which. This day was a hard paddle as the river widens up in a few spots and was very windy. To me this is the hardest part about this river. Wind would push us upstream if we didn't paddle. Last day we had about a 2 hour paddle to take out at Big Satan SNA. Great time! Let me know if you want anymore info. I had good luck on a small white spinner bait.

[This message has been edited by CBarrett12 (edited 6/12/2013 6:36a).]

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Thanks for the responses! Very helpful, especially re the approximate locations for the islands.

Kind of a disgusting topic, but did you guys bring "human waste" bags and did anyone from TPWD ask about or inspect them? I have read and heard they are pretty nazi-ish about this issue.

[This message has been edited by DTP02 (edited 6/12/2013 10:55a).]

[This message has been edited by DTP02 (edited 6/12/2013 10:55a).]

Hoping to canoe Devils River next month. Any recommendations on where to rent canoes an such? Sounds like a great time!

Can't remember the guys name but "Who Cares Bed & Breakfast" is about the only game in town. They had several canoes. When are you going? We leave May 29 for our 3 day trip.

Agneck we shoot back and I guarantee we are better shots!

I did the trip two years ago in canoes with low flows. If the canoe is loaded, day one will be extremely tough if you are putting in at Bakers Crossing. Lots of hopping in and out dragging it over rocks (my back was feeling it at the end of the day). Make sure and have a bow and stern line attached as you can float it over some of the low areas once the occupants exit the craft. The rock on the bottom is very rough, so you must wear durable shoes that cover your toes. Days 2 and 3 are much better as Dolan Creek adds significantly to the water level.

I caught well over my limit of small and largemouth bass. Didn't catch one under 19 inches. I was using a pumpkin plastic with charteuse tail and had it Texas rigged. Just above the first SNA there is a deep section with lots of plantlife. There are holes in the plantlife that reach the bottom of the river. I'd drop the rig in these holes and then hang on! Had a giant bass break my rod in this section.

I brought iodine tablets and would rotate Nalgenes in the boat. One being treated while I drank the other. Make sure and take a patch kit if you can. One of the canoes we rented from Gerald (one of the local outfitters) was patched and the patch was torn away by rock. It made the rest of the trip interesting to say the least. Due to extremely low flows, we actually camped on the side of the river where you could tell the water used to cover (technically still within the cutbank of the river, but arguably a gray area if it were challenged in court...wouldn't do it again).

We did get chaecked by the local warden near Game Warden Rock on day three of the trip. Let me know if you have any specific questions and I will try and provide answers.

South Llano

You were probably fine where you stayed on the low bank. The law is halfway between the low and high banks, with the high bank essentially being more or less the maximum flood course of the river and the low being the upper edge of the cut bank.

There is no law on that river. Landowners think they own to the middle of the river based on the Spanish land grant. Current law says other wise but when you're in the middle of no where faced with an angry landowner and a game warden all too happy to issue a citation what are your choices.

Spanish Land Grant gives them certain rights regarding modifying the river, subject of course to many state and federal laws that make it an almost worthless right, and they pay TAXES on the riverbottom (bummer), but it means nothing regarding passage, navigability law and such along the river, and NEVER HAS. They made up in their minds, but the courts tend to follow the nav by statute and fact laws.

I can see why they get bent out of shape about trespass, because it can be a real problem, but it is a problem where there are no land grant lands, and the same public accessibility laws apply, generally.

The ONLY grey area is camping on the riverbank, where you are not simply passing through. Portage rules apply to travel and navigation when you have to move along the bank to pass water obstacles, but don't necessarily cover camping.

[This message has been edited by MouthBQ98 (edited 5/13/2014 12:15p).]

Should I be worried about camping on the bank or should I play it "safe" and camp on an island? It appears these riverfront landowners mean business and the game wardens are on their side.

Any suggested camping locations that you would recommend?

Camp on islands. River mile 9.5 below the low water crossing has a few small spots. RM 14.5 before it dumps into the del Norte SNA pool there's a large island and spots on the W side of the island and RM 19 or so below three tier and John Eddy's mansion. There's a really deep pool around 19.5 camp spot that's a heck of a fishing hole; probably my favorite of the trip.

Doing this trip this weekend, looking forward to getting away from the city for a kayak fishing trip with the guys. My only concern is the current flow (2.06ft/30cfs)...any thoughts on the minimum needed? TPWD issued permits, but wondering just how much dragging I'll be doing. Also, fishing lure recs for the river this time of year appreciated.

I think we did it with 100 at bakers. It was about 40% distance wise dragging on the first day. After that not bad. First day was brutal. Ask Gerald Bailey, doubt he'd say no though, bad for business. There's a website, southwest paddler that give minimum flow recommendations

Make sure your boats have thick hulls, youll drag through if not.