High Fence Bid Out

19,210 Views | 16 Replies | Last: 10 yr ago by birdman
nnichols
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Does anyone on here have any recent high fence pricing / linear ft. We are looking at fencing ~6600 ft w schedule 40 galzanized posts, game fence and wire, and a predator skirt and feel liek the estimate we are gettign might be a little high. Any thoughts?
agmudbug
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15-18k mile all gal. 4" post corners/line braces, t-post.
KW02
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AG
I thought it ran $1 to $1.50 a foot but closer to the $1.50.
nnichols
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You guys would go out of business pretty fast according to all the bids we are getting. Anyone with actual recent experience building one or does anyone work in that line and could give a better estimate than "i thought it was...". Any names would be appreciated.

[This message has been edited by nnichols (edited 11/17/2009 11:52a).]
country
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AG
Where is the bid located? Fencing costs can be a heck of a lot different in the rock hills of the hill country vs flat land. In the Kimble County area $4.50 - $6.00 per foot is the going rate if you are getting anything of size done.
nnichols
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We have been getting 5.50-6.50/ft as the bids. Were roughly at $6.15 at the moment.The line posts are Schedule 40 2 3/8” hot dip galvanized both inside & out. They’re 12 feet long and 4 deep. The fencing is 8 foot Beckart 12 ½ gauge high tensile game fence. All vertical bracing is 3 ½” galvanized pipe. All horizontal bracing is 2 3/8” galvanized pipe. The predator skirt is Class III Predator Skirt – I think it’s 3 1/2 feet wide. The predator skirt adds ~$1.50/ft.
One-Eyed Fat Man
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AG
I was hunting in Junction over the weekend and I heard the ranch manager out there say $21,000 per mile. Harder digging I guess.
country
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AG
Yes, with the predator skirt added, I don't see a problem with that bid amount. Again, some terrain is cheaper than others, but if you back the skirt out of your ranges, you're falling in line with the going rate in my area.
country
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AG
$21K/Mile is basically $4.00/foot. I haven't seen anything that low in the Junction area for a while now. You might could get it done around a field for that where the digging is easy.
boyd1002
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AG


[This message has been edited by boyd1002 (edited 11/17/2009 3:23p).]
FritztownAg
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AG
Recently (couple months old) had two bids on about 2.5 miles of high fence.

Two different contractors out of Uvalde and Laredo:

Bids for labor on fence in dirt: $1.24 vs $1.40 per linear foot

Bids for labor on fence in rock: $1.60 vs $1.80

Owner supplies material which at the time was around $9,800 per mile. Did not include concrete costs, gates, or clearing of fence line.

Dozing cost was bid at $0.36 per foot. The dozing will be over light brush, so he agreed to do it at $92 per hour with a $485 cost to haul dozer in.

Additional cost by one contractor: $75 per night for lodging.

Estimated that they could build about 1 mile per week with a four man crew.

Did not include predator skirt

shiftyandquick
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how much less for a low fence?
nnichols
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Looks like the guy that put up the other 3 sections is willing to do 5.65/ft including pred skirt. He gave us .50 cents off because he is using our equipment to clear etc
shiftyandquick
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Is there a way to prevent it from being washed out again, so you are not out 30k?
Ted Logan
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AG
We hang panels from a cable on the water gaps. When the creeks rise, the panels will just swing with the current. If they get too high, we have to go re-tie them. the trick is to tie them securely to the cable and loosely to each other. That way if a large branch or tree comes floating down, it doesn't take the fence with it. It will break the ties between the panels, but they would still be attached to the cable overhead. We have only had to replace one or two panels over the last 10 years this way.

edit..we don't have a high fence, but I guess you can do the same thing for a high fence by doubling up the panels

[This message has been edited by Ted Logan (edited 11/17/2009 4:57p).]
CSTXAG2015
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We do the same Ted, but that doesnt help when the creek rises completely over the whole fence. 15+ inches of rain in a month will do that

[This message has been edited by JHNichols (edited 11/17/2009 5:19p).]
birdman
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You ought to be able to figure the materials cost by yourself. The labor and materials are usually 50/50 split. So just double materials cost to figure your total.

If you're a doctor or lawyer in the hill country, they'll gouge you. Just shop around, there are plenty of guys who can handle a t-post driver.

A easiest way to handle water gaps in just make corners. Tie off your strands to braces, that are just outside the flood area on both sides. The middle area in water gap can be panels or wire. I use wire because the panels only last for couple of floods. So does the wire, but it costs about 1% of panels.

Doesn't really matter what type of water gap you build, it's gonna get wrecked. Just get used to checking water gaps after big rains. It's part of the job and you get used to it.
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