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Advice for backpacking in Glacier NP (Montana)

2,090 Views | 17 Replies | Last: 16 yr ago by AgFan60
McNasty
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AG
I posted this on the travel forum and realized there would probably be some folks here who have been to Glacier. Any input from the outdoorsmen here?

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clobby
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be prepared for any weather, it snowed last year in the summer
Vero143
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You only have to outrun one person when a bear is chasing you.
AggieCowboy
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take a lot of bear spray....The Griz love seasoning on their food.......

seriously, when you going. Layer your clothing. Need a good sleeping bag, bivy tent or bag, excelent pad....etc.

[This message has been edited by AggieCowboy (edited 5/4/2008 12:40p).]
McNasty
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The plan is for late June, so we're wearing layers to prepare for cold. We're hoping to spend 2 nights in the backcountry since this is her first time outside of car camping.

I've already bought a can of bear spray, but I don't think I'd want to outrun the other person since she's my wife.
ursusguy
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Late June is nice up there. As stated before, plan on any type of weather occuring.

For a short backcountry trip, I'm partial to starting in the Many Glacier area and dropping into the Belly River country. I also like anything in the Two Medicine area.

Keep in mind that the east side of the park is very different looking than the west, so plan time to see both. I like looking for bears, and the east side is more open, so I tend to look east where it is easier to see.

You might want to check the airline regs before you plan on taking the bear spray on the plane. Last time I checked, you could only have up to a 4 oz. canister in checked luggage. Counter Assault (or any of the other brands) tend to start at 8.5 oz. and go up.

"Our nation’s continued prosperity hinges on our ability to solve environmental problems and sustain the natural resources on which we all depend.” John McCain November 22, 1996
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Vero143
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If you want to see a bear, do the Chief Mountain hike up Lee Ridge and then traverse down the western side, but stay in the US. Good hike to see bears on the lake mid day, but Lee Ridge sucks as far as the early part of the hike goes. The first 2 miles are nothing but closed canopy forest, but then opens up to great views. (If you do that hike, bring me back my data loggers on my weather stations ontop of the ridge. That was from my thesis and they still are collecting data.)
EnviroAg96
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Eat the breakfast pastries at the store in Polebride if you get a chance.
mccjames
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Not to rain on your parade but will you be flying with pepper spray? As of last year you were not allowed to fly with pepper spray as a carry on or in your luggage. Kind of like butane lighters. When I went to Yellowstone we donated it to the park rangers.

Oops did not see urs's post. He might be able to tell you if they require bear proof containers, starting to get more popular with the park managers.

[This message has been edited by mccjames (edited 5/4/2008 11:48p).]
MouthBQ98
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If you feel you NEED spray, get it at the park store or in Kalispell or another nearby town on the way.

I spent a week in Glacier, and it was INCREDIBLE. Of course, I went before the big fires in the Apgar area about 5 years back. Pay close attention to the rock on the shorelines of the creeks and rivers..they are very pretty, all kinds of colors and smooth shapes. McDonald Creek is the coolest color of sky blue, and has trout more than willing to take a fly.

Of course everyone drives the going to the sun Road. When we got into the park late at night in late August we made camp in the dark at a campground off lake McDonald, and got up early in the morning to overcast skies. It smelled like rain, so we broke camp, and sure enough, the rain started right as we finished. With nothing better to do, we drove the "going to the sun" road...as we got higher, we started seeing cars come down with snow on them. As we got higher, the rain turned into a heavy thick snowfall, and it started sticking. Fortunately, we were wearing good outdoor gear with some nice breathable rainsuits that made good snowgear. By the time we got to the pass at the top, there was 6 inches of snowfall...very cool, very pretty.

The trip got even better from there. We hiked about every trail we could manage with the time we had, including some isolated "non tourist" trails that were barely more than game tracks...we had a good trail map though. We had no bearspray. We just made a pretty good amount of noise so they'd hear us coming, (being too quiet is what causes nearly all attacks..by startling a bear) We took so many pictures it wasn't funny...that was before we had bought our first digital camera, to my everlasting regret.

Go to Waterton Lakes while you are there, just across in to Canada. The Canadian side is very pretty, and they have this canyon where a blue tinted stream cuts through a bedrock of red and creme tinted slate and sandstone, it is almost surreal.
MouthBQ98
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Oh, yeah, they were total Nazis about not exposing any food containers or food outside for any length of time, but they had to be, to keep the bears from ravaging the campsites, especially since most of the campers were in tents or tiny popup trailers. They've managed to keep the bears in Glacier from getting too attached to human food and trash, unlike at Yellowstone.

And you will be absolutely sick of Huckleberry by the end of your time there if you go later in the summer.
And Moose Drool and Troutslayer are two good regional beers up there.
Oh, and after tenting for 4 days in 20 degree damp nights, if you are with your wife and she's getting cranky, try to the KOA campground for a hot shower and, even better, a night in a $75 a night heated "cabin". A real morale booster for the female types!


[This message has been edited by MouthBQ98 (edited 5/5/2008 10:54a).]
Vero143
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If you do backcountry, I highly suggest the bear spray.

Here is Red Rock Canyon as refferred above:
ursusguy
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I agree with geo, if you are heading into the backcountry, I'd highly suggest getting the spray. I'm probably a little too comfortable around bear country, and I still carry it in Glacier.

McNasty
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Geo,
Thanks for the earlier tips on the other thread. We managed to snag 2 nights at the Red Eagle for $80/night. After 2 nights in the backcountry, I think my wife will want some comfort, so I booked a lake room at the Many Glacier hotel. It's $160, so I might change my mind later.


Other Outdoors posters,
Thanks to everyone for the input. I've still got a few questions if anyone's willing to read on:

CAMPING
We're basically looking for something that is away from the cars and central for 2-3 different day hikes. It's my understanding that they allow reservations for half the sites and reserve the other half for walkups. They've got a great site that with a map showing sites and availability here. Does anyone see a site with availability 6/22 and 6/23 that would be good? I'll try to post a list of what's available later. I guess it would be best to reserve something and then try to get a better walkup site (worked in Estes Park).


BEARS
I'd honestly rather not see bears except from a long distance. It looks like I'll have to return my bear spray to REI and buy some when I get there. Instead of bear cannisters, I've read you can bring rope and hang stuff from the trees away from your site. Do they allow that?

[This message has been edited by McNasty (edited 5/5/2008 6:54p).]
HalifaxAg
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No one mentioned the thin air up on the mountains?

If you're going way up, be prepared for the effects of thinner air. I don't know if it will affect you but it did me in, felt like I was having an asthma attack.
Vero143
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**Red Eagle is great, nothing fancy but a hot shower and good beds. Many Glacier is so awesome. It is such a remarkable lobby with lots to look at. There is a pizza place at the end of Many Glacier Rd, very tasty. Or get a brew at Roscoe's and eat at thier pizza parlor one night across the street from the Red Eagle. Also, go eat at Two Sisters cafe for dinner, just north of Many Glacier. The Park Cafe is right across the street from the Red Eagle; the best pie you will ever eat along with badass breakfast (I'll pay you a finders fee if you got me a new shirt from there ). Do yourself a favor and eat here just once for breakfast, I promise it will not dissapoint.


**As far as backcountry sites, I would go with

HAWKSBILL (north near Brown Pass)
CRACKER PASS (Near logan pass to the east)
MORNING STAR (To the south of Cracker Pass)

**Most campsites have bear boxes now and they used to allow the rope thingys, but not sure anymore. I would call the Rangers office and ask.

**There is a general store in St Mary, but I would advise against buying something there. You will be looking at a huge markup (ie bear spray for 50-60 bucks each). We used to only shop there in emergencies only. I would buy your spray in Kalispell at Sportsman Ski Haus or Rocky mountain Outfitter. Both are awesome stores.

[This message has been edited by geogaggie (edited 5/5/2008 7:47p).]
McNasty
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Thanks to ursus for the advice on the Belly River (Northeast) area. I called the backcountry office, and the ranger said our best bet for late June was there or the Northfork (Northwest). They just sent my confirmation for 2 nights at Cosley Lake. We can still explore the other sites on day hikes, but it feels good to have a reservation. Because of elevation changes, it's still hard to look at the map and gauge how long it will take to hike or drive these distances.

Has anyone been whitewater rafting in or around the park? We're both interested in that or maybe horseback riding.
ursusguy
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That is a very pretty area. I would suggest taking a hike over to Elizabeth Lake. If yall are in pretty good shape, you could push it up to Helen Lake. That will pretty well get you away from a bunch of people.

If you decide to visit the NW side, make sure you eat a Polebridge.

Oh, on the east side, my family's favorite food on the whole trip was the grilled cheese at the cafe in Babbs (only thing there). My wife has already said we are going to Glacier in 5-6 years, hopefully with a kid, simply to go to that cafe again.

The night you are in the Many Glacier hotel (really cool fancy restraunt--where I had my engagement celebration), make sure you head over towards the Swift Current Inn about sundown. Watch the mountain just north of the road (off the top of my head, but it is behind S.C. Inn), chances are you will see a grizzly feeding on the slopes. There is usually crowd with spotting scopes in the parking lot.

[This message has been edited by ursusguy (edited 5/6/2008 8:41p).]
AgFan60
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If you can swing it, grab a beer at Mooses in Kalispell. http://www.moosessaloon.com/index.html
Just don't let anyone talk you into blowing the horn for a free pitcher of beer.
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