Howdy all- we are having a detached garage built. It will have 2 garage doors, and I'd like each to be controlled via "smart" garage door openers so I can control them from my phone (my current one is Aladdin Genie which I plan to stick with). Since we are in the early building phase I'd like to plan on how I can get a good signal out there.

I currently use Verizon 5g home internet, turned off the router function and instead use an Eero mesh system. See attached for pic:
H = home
G = garage
O = office
Dots are the nodes
Red line is a cat 6 Ethernet cord that is trenched out to the gate so we could have a Ring doorbell far from the house. It is attached directly to the Eero main router and works well.

My plan A is to get another node and power it up in the garage. Maybe the signal will reach from the office and extending it will be that easy? But if it's too far I want to be prepared. Could I do something like run another Ethernet cable out there, connected to a node in the office?

Of note I have no remaining open Ethernet ports on the main Eero- 1 connects to the Verizon modem, the other to the Ring. I do have one open Ethernet port on the Verizon modem labeled "LAN 1".

Thanks

Just buy a switch, they're fairly cheap these days. Unplug the Ring from the Eero, connect the 5-port switch instead, and plug the Ring into the switch. Now you have 3 more ports available

Eero -> switch -> Ring

Just an example, I have no experience with this one

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-5-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Managed/dp/B07PJ7XZ7X/

Powerline ethernet to get a connection to the garage(get a kit like below with built in wifi to simplify it). Or if you want to run another one of your routers units, make sure it has wired backhaul and then get a kit like the second one below just to add ethernet access. Switch as mentioned before to expand your ethernet ports.

Main router to switch then to other units and things that need ethernet.

TP-Link Powerline Wi-Fi Extender (TL-WPA7617KIT) - AV1000 Powerline Ethernet Adapter with AC1200 Dual Band Wi-Fi, Gigabit Port, Passthrough, OneMesh, Ethernet Over Power, Plug & Play https://a.co/d/1mzT20d


TP-Link AV2000 Powerline Adapter - 2 Gigabit Ports, Ethernet Over Power, Plug&Play, Power Saving, 2x2 MIMO, Noise Filtering, Extra Power Socket for other Devices, Ideal for Gaming (TL-PA9020P KIT) https://a.co/d/fAFnrsd

What's the distance you have to span to get to the garage? 56 feet? That's a piece of cake if you have a good mesh system. You already mentioned it, but that's what I'd go with, but probably not with eero if you want to assure coverage to that point. I have a deco mesh system for the house, but the signal covers all the way to the back of a separate building I'm currently converting into an entertainment space thst will need full wifi, a couple hundred feet of coverage away from the main house, but the signal isn't nearly as strong in the back third of the building (incredibly it still has useable wifi even way back there), which makes sense considering how far away it is. I just bought a third deco unit to extend the mesh system to cover the entirety of the second building, which will be easy if I put it in the first third of that building. Can you just replace the eero system with one with a larger range? I went from eero to deco and went from struggling to get coverage with a 1600 sq foot long flat with 3 units to coverage of my 3 floor 2600 sq ft house and more than half an acre with 2 deco units. The difference is remarkable. If this would work in your situation, it's the easiest option IMO, as well as an improvement in your overall network.

Fatzilla with option #2, would I run a new Ethernet cable from the switch to the power line adapter (plugged in the garage)? And the additional router in the garage would plug into the power line adapter?

I have nothing to add over what's been said, but props to the OP for giving a good description and even a drawing!

beatlesphan said:

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Fatzilla with option #2, would I run a new Ethernet cable from the switch to the power line adapter (plugged in the garage)? And the additional router in the garage would plug into the power line adapter?

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Ethernet from switch to 1 powerline adapter plugged into outlet near switch in main house. Plug second powerline adapter into electric socket in garage near where your router tower will be in there. Run ethernet from powerline adapter to new router and plug into wan port.

They are very easy to use and will provide a hardwired connection. They are just turning your electrical wires into sudo ethernet cables.

Make sure the garage and the house are on the same circuit if you want to go the powerline ethernet option.

If I am understanding the OP correctly, the garage hasn't been built yet?

If so, run an ethernet drop when they dig the ditch for power. Assuming power is going underground.

Garage will be built in Aug-Sept. Electrician plans on running power through the attic then through the roof of the walkway/carport that attaches the garage to the house. I'll ask to make sure it'll be on the same circuit

beatlesphan said:

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Garage will be built in Aug-Sept. Electrician plans on running power through the attic then through the roof of the walkway/carport that attaches the garage to the house. I'll ask to make sure it'll be on the same circuit

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Tell the electrician to run cat6 and be done.

A cat6 Ethernet cord? And what specifically will I be connecting the ends to? I assume one is the Eero main router (using a switch), and the other?

Sorry you gotta spell it out for me but I appreciate all of y'all's help

beatlesphan said:

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A cat6 Ethernet cord? And what specifically will I be connecting the ends to? I assume one is the Eero main router (using a switch), and the other?

Sorry you gotta spell it out for me but I appreciate all of y'all's help

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if electrician is running cable through roof already, have him pull a bulk cat6 cable at the same time. Have someone run that through the attic back to your room with router and drop it down the wall through any access point. Or have him install a conduit from garage to main attic so someone can easily run you a cat6 through it. In the garage you would just buy another satellite unit for your router and plug it into the cat6 in the garage. Just a heads up, moisture and dust and bugs and stuff will likely cause this unit to fail quicker than normal so you might be replacing it every year or 2.

Not sure who to hire tbh to run the ethernet and then terminate the ends of the cable. I did my terminations myself when i bought my house but im pretty technical in nature. The tools and ends are pretty easy to learn to use but can be a pita to triage if something goes wrong. Google or nextdoor or angies list or similar sites might help you find someone to do this side job. Make sure they are insured, a foot through a ceiling can be expensive to fix (ask my big foot how i know lol)

Great, got it. Thanks!!

dtkprowler said:

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beatlesphan said:

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Garage will be built in Aug-Sept. Electrician plans on running power through the attic then through the roof of the walkway/carport that attaches the garage to the house. I'll ask to make sure it'll be on the same circuit

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Tell the electrician to run cat6 and be done.

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And don't run just 1 Cat6, have them run 2 ... just in case.

Yes, Run Two STP (Shielded Twisted Pair ) Cat 6 Cables.

The shielding will help prevent interference with electrical if the electrician runs them together.


Get 2 of these (if you want redundancy):

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Snagless-Shielded-Ethernet/dp/B00HEM653S

Do Not Buy CCA Ethernet Cable, It is Copper Clad Aluminum which is cheaper, but just a copper coating on aluminum wire, which will corrode over time or break easier


Google Why is CCA bad ?

About 7,800,000 results (0.41 seconds)

Search Results

A) Poor flexibility and bend radius: CCA conductors are brittle and break easily; it has been noted that even moving a patch panel or a faceplate can cause failures …

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CCA is not approved by UL due to it being a fire hazard.
TrueCABLE

C) Copper Clad Aluminum vs Copper: The Ultimate Test
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Bump...I'm gonna add 2 more ring cameras on the garage along with an access point. The ring cameras are POE. I will need a PoE switch to fit all these devices, so here's my question: would it be possible to put the PoE switch in the attic? It would be a cleaner install and would allow me to get all this wiring out of my bedroom. I'm concerned about the temperature rating on the PoE switches (most say 104F, obviously it would get much hotter than this in my attic). Or would a outdoor-rated PoE extender in the attic do the job?

TIA

dtkprowler said:

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beatlesphan said:

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Garage will be built in Aug-Sept. Electrician plans on running power through the attic then through the roof of the walkway/carport that attaches the garage to the house. I'll ask to make sure it'll be on the same circuit

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Tell the electrician to run cat6 and be done.

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You don't want to run ethernet cable close to and parallel to the electrical line in order to reduce electical noise. I'm not positive, but I think that the general recommendation is to run them at least six inches apart. If they must cross closer, do so at a 90 degree angle.

beatlesphan said:

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Bump...I'm gonna add 2 more ring cameras on the garage along with an access point. The ring cameras are POE. I will need a PoE switch to fit all these devices, so here's my question: would it be possible to put the PoE switch in the attic? It would be a cleaner install and would allow me to get all this wiring out of my bedroom. I'm concerned about the temperature rating on the PoE switches (most say 104F, obviously it would get much hotter than this in my attic). Or would a outdoor-rated PoE extender in the attic do the job?

TIA

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Moisture is not a friend to electronics. I wouldn't put it in the attic tbh.

FatZilla said:

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beatlesphan said:

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Bump...I'm gonna add 2 more ring cameras on the garage along with an access point. The ring cameras are POE. I will need a PoE switch to fit all these devices, so here's my question: would it be possible to put the PoE switch in the attic? It would be a cleaner install and would allow me to get all this wiring out of my bedroom. I'm concerned about the temperature rating on the PoE switches (most say 104F, obviously it would get much hotter than this in my attic). Or would a outdoor-rated PoE extender in the attic do the job?

TIA

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Moisture is not a friend to electronics. I wouldn't put it in the attic tbh.

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Yeah. Putting switches in an attic is contraindicated.

We had a builder around here who built an office building and designed it with the gear in the attic. The business moving in had a fit when they saw it. (The building is owned by someone else and leased to the business and the business had no say other than to identify their requirements.) They ended up having someone splice the ethernet cable (a very stupid idea with ethernet) to put the switch in the utility room above the water heater.

That builder was actually a pretty good carpenter, but a real piece of crap as a builder. He ended up fleeing the state for a short time for fraud, but for some reason had been able to come back into the state, but to another town over 100 miles away, and resume his criminal activities. We are now checking the DOJ website on occasion to see if he has been sentenced and how many years he gets for a federal fraud. I'm hoping he's there for at least 30, but I bet he only gets 5 to 10.

But the last place anyone should put network equipment is in the attic. Run the cables through the attic, but put the equipment somewhere accessible.

One other thing, if I was going to run the cables underground, I would probably use some waterproof conduit to run them in. Even a simple garden hose running the full length would help.

Regardless of whether the cable is through the air or underground, use a good quality outdoor cable. It isn't generally that expensive.

If I was doing it, I'd be tempted to use fiber instead of ethernet. Just make sure you have a router on each end with fiber ports. Or use a radio link. 60 GHz would work great for that.

I'd run fiber over cat6 if it is a detached building. It's not too expensive to get switches that have ports for fiber and the fiber itself isn't that expensive these days (though it's not as easily cut and self terminated like cat cable).

Probably the most cost effective is radio.

You can get 60 GHz Mikrotik radios and get far more bandwidth than it is likely you will need to the garage.

Here's the access point -- mount it on the house.

https://mikrotik.com/product/wap_60g_ap

Here is the remote unit to mount at the garage.

https://mikrotik.com/product/wap_60g

If you go this route, make sure that you have completely clear line of site and that you aim them well. It's not enough to just stick one on the side of the house and the other on the side of the garage. They must be aimed.

With this, you won't need any trenching through the ground.

If a 60 GHz radio completely ices up, it isn't going to be passing data until the ice melts off.

Assuming you don't need that much, go with a 2.4 or 5 GHz radio. The advantage with this approach is that you would be able to also connect to it from outside the house on that side with laptops, tables, and cell phones. Make sure that you have a wide beamwidth on the access point so that you can cover the area better.

Also, you won't have the same icing problem with 2.4 GHz or 5 GHz that you will with 60 GHz.

You can get the radios from ISP Supplies in College Station: https://www.ispsupplies.com If you ask them for help, they should be able to tell you which radios best fit your need.